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Old 09-30-2011, 03:03 PM   #54991
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:06 PM   #54992
weerider
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stickers

can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:17 PM   #54993
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weerider View Post
can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
you are wrong thread.
this is dr not dl650
and the strom is a beast so wrong area too.


i had a strom...if they are from older bike they tend to remove paint at the same time.
use a hair dryer to lossen the glue.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:04 PM   #54994
maynard911
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Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:22 PM   #54995
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.
Your wire and fuse do need to sized in accordance to each other, #10 wire gets a 30a fuse, #12 gets a 20a fuse, #14 gets a 15a fuse and so on. And you can use a smaller fuse with larger wire, but not vice versa.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:54 PM   #54996
silverwolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
The other thing that causes this is the needle will bounce in the carb at low throttle openings in rough terrain which can make it rich and it will die from flooding.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:01 PM   #54997
dljocky
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I've been very happy with their hard bag(Pelican1430) set up on the old racks on my DR. Had them on for about 7 months now. the new racks look great, especially with the brace.



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
updated wolfman side racks w/ hard bag mount option.

rack pics:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=55102
info thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729632
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:38 PM   #54998
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.

For any procedure following this you will need a puddle of water, a lighting rod and barefeet. Good Luck
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:45 PM   #54999
SprintST
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Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
I misunderstood the reason for the fuse being so close to the battery. My thought was that the "gizmo" would be subjected to an overload for a longer period of time therefore increasing the risk of damage. Your explanation of course makes perfect sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
Your wire and fuse do need to sized in accordance to each other, #10 wire gets a 30a fuse, #12 gets a 20a fuse, #14 gets a 15a fuse and so on. And you can use a smaller fuse with larger wire, but not vice versa.
Thanks Rainier_runner. This is the kind of info I need to know in order to do this job properly, and safely.

Any thoughts on a specific type of fuse block? Should I be looking at a Marine version because of water resistance?
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:20 PM   #55000
TeeVee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmiley View Post
Wolfman Rocks!!! Really good stuff and keeps on trying to make it BETTER! PLUS it's MADE IN THE USA!!!
Plus 100. called them to see what i could do to carry just one of the expedition bags since i rarely need 2. the thing is, most of the bag's weight is supported by the over the saddle straps which are permanently attached to the 2nd bag. Dusty hooked me up with some custom straps designed to loop through the opposite side's rack and hold the weight of the bag like they were designed to. awesome!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:25 PM   #55001
ER70S-2
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There are some good ideas in the above link. Ideally, a marine version would be a good choice, but some are pricey. Under the seat is fairly safe unless you're one of those crazy Aussies doing 2 foot water crossings.

The disadvantage of mounting the fuses under the seat, every circuit (wire) has to put up with flex at the steering head. But there is little room around the headlight for fuses.

I only have three gauges of wire, 10ga, 12ga and 16ga. I'd run 12 to the fuse block and 16 to the 'gizmos'.

Heat shrink is your friend, leave no metal (wire) exposed. The heat shrink should have been big enough to cover the terminals; not like this:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:29 PM   #55002
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
Changing brake pads on the DR650 is easy. Just take your time.
Make sure the bike is secure on the lift and you might want to take a photo of the brake calaper befor removing the old pads so you are sure how to put on the new ones.
After removing the old pads you will need to compress the piston so the new ones (and wheel) will fit.
When test driving and a while afterwards, take it easy because the new pad will not stop as well for a while.
Good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_TN View Post
One big step you forgot to mention is once the new pads are on and bike is back on the ground squeeze the lever several times to seat everything. If you just take off on a test ride you are gonna piss yourself when you grab a handful of lever and the bike doesn't stop.
More to it still, skipped a few steps:
Once old pads are out it's good practice to clean up the caliper pistons and make sure they are free and not stuck.

Carefully squeeze lever (or brake pedal) and watch to pistons to emerge.
Sometimes one side can stick ...hold one side IN so the piston does not come out too far (it will pop out !!) eventually the stuck one will emerge.
Extend them about 3/4 of the way out to clean.

Now use a green "chore girl" type scrubby pad and clean them up with WD40 or even brake fluid. Polish them up, then depress them back in all the way and pump them out again. Be careful of rubber seals, wipe with brake fluid lightly when clean.

All smooth and consistent? Shiny pistons? No pitting? No corrosion?

Now ready to install new pads. I like to chamfer the pads edges just a bit
with sand paper. Make sure to retain the stock stainless backing plates. Clean everything and make sure holding springs are in correctly and pads are in correctly.

Once pads are in force them open all the way (use two small wood blocks and a tire iron) .

Now bleed system, exchanging out ALL old brake fluid for NEW fluid from a NEW, sealed can.

There are a few other tips and tricks but those are the basics. Very easy
on the DR650.

EDIT: just realized AV8 did a nice pictorial on this a few pages back ... very good. I forgot to mention the anti-seize on the pin and threads.
(been out riding)

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 09-30-2011 at 09:54 PM
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:19 PM   #55003
rhino_adv
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tire size

Im sure this has been gone over several times, but I am unable to find it. Which size tire is best suited for the rear of a DR650, 5.10 or 4.60 17?

thanks, Brad
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:27 PM   #55004
doug s.
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
...Heat shrink is your friend, leave no metal (wire) exposed. The heat shrink should have been big enough to cover the terminals; not like this:

agreed on the heat shrink, but you can buy terminal clips that have plastic or rubber sheathing on them; makes life easier. there's lotsa different types; here's an example:


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Old 09-30-2011, 10:37 PM   #55005
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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