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Old 09-30-2011, 11:22 AM   #54991
vintagespeed
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Originally Posted by hmmwv15 View Post
The procycle kit I got was marked as 6000K, supposed to be bright white, (has just a hint of blue). If I can find a 4500K bulb I'll see how I like it.
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
....Any recommendations for auxiliary fuse blocks or alternate solutions.....
run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:22 PM   #54992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
get the 4800K, you'll be much happier with the light pattern. the 6000k is blue, especially at night you notice all the signs and anything white is blue. it's not a huge deal because i bought mine to make me more visible on the freeway in traffic, but it's still blue.



run 2 wires up from the battery (hot & ground) to a fused 30A relay behind the cowl, triggered by the unused ignition switch plug (brown plug behind cowl), to a small 8 wire distribution block. plug all your goodies into that. use one side of the distribution block for HOT +, the other side for ground - make sure the ground connects to the battery ground wire on the relay.
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:05 PM   #54993
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updated wolfman side racks w/ hard bag mount option.

rack pics:
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info thread:
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:47 PM   #54994
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Wolfman Rocks!!! Really good stuff and keeps on trying to make it BETTER! PLUS it's MADE IN THE USA!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:47 PM   #54995
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Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
...I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible.....
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:55 PM   #54996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
Well, let's see now............. electricity in a wire travels at the speed of light in a vacuum (186,000 miles per second) so......... if I make this wire a foot shorter the fuse will blow how much sooner.....hmmmm

Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:03 PM   #54997
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Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
right! side stand switch! duh...

i'll totally start there and check back with ya'll. thanks so much.
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:06 PM   #54998
weerider
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stickers

can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:17 PM   #54999
eakins
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Originally Posted by weerider View Post
can anyone help me determine if I can take my stickers off the gas tank without wrecking the paint
the large vstrom stickers they are a bit too much
thanks
you are wrong thread.
this is dr not dl650
and the strom is a beast so wrong area too.


i had a strom...if they are from older bike they tend to remove paint at the same time.
use a hair dryer to lossen the glue.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:04 PM   #55000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
yes, good point, place the fuse as close to the battery as you can. and use a fairly substantial gauge of wire since you're only going to run 2 wires to power all that stuff. something like 8-10ga should be good enough.
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:22 PM   #55001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.
Your wire and fuse do need to sized in accordance to each other, #10 wire gets a 30a fuse, #12 gets a 20a fuse, #14 gets a 15a fuse and so on. And you can use a smaller fuse with larger wire, but not vice versa.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:54 PM   #55002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
"my basically stock '03 dies a lot when i'm on very bumpy or rocky terrain"

A perfectly logical suggestion for the reason you site.

As to the dying when you pull in the clutch, my choke cable was broken at the carb (the threaded plastic body) and it would open the choke slightly and it would die at idle at stops.
Another culprit could be the tiny filter in the inlet barb, You have to take the fuel line off the carb to pull it out.

I took my kickstand switch off the bike because it was doing exactly what you say is happening on bumpy/rocky terrain.
The other thing that causes this is the needle will bounce in the carb at low throttle openings in rough terrain which can make it rich and it will die from flooding.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:01 PM   #55003
dljocky
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I've been very happy with their hard bag(Pelican1430) set up on the old racks on my DR. Had them on for about 7 months now. the new racks look great, especially with the brace.



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
updated wolfman side racks w/ hard bag mount option.

rack pics:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=55102
info thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729632
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:38 PM   #55004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.

For any procedure following this you will need a puddle of water, a lighting rod and barefeet. Good Luck
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:45 PM   #55005
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Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
I misunderstood the reason for the fuse being so close to the battery. My thought was that the "gizmo" would be subjected to an overload for a longer period of time therefore increasing the risk of damage. Your explanation of course makes perfect sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
Your wire and fuse do need to sized in accordance to each other, #10 wire gets a 30a fuse, #12 gets a 20a fuse, #14 gets a 15a fuse and so on. And you can use a smaller fuse with larger wire, but not vice versa.
Thanks Rainier_runner. This is the kind of info I need to know in order to do this job properly, and safely.

Any thoughts on a specific type of fuse block? Should I be looking at a Marine version because of water resistance?
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