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Old 09-30-2011, 06:38 PM   #55021
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Google 'wire ampacities chart' This tells you how large a wire is needed to carry a given load without overheating. The DR only has about 80w of spare capacity to play with so 10 gauge wire is overkill. 10 gauge is good for 33amps, or around 450w assuming 14volts (Volts x Amps = Watts. Even if you were willing to pull 10A, which would kill your battery in short order, 18 gauge is good to go.

For any procedure following this you will need a puddle of water, a lighting rod and barefeet. Good Luck
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:45 PM   #55022
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Thanks for the input vintagspeed. I've read that the hot wire running from the battery to the fuse block should be as short as possible in order for a fuse to catch any overload as soon as possible. Make any sense? Like I said in my OP, I'm electrically challenged.
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Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Having a short wire between the battery and the fuse does make sense because until the fuse the wire itself is unprotected and if it should short out 'things get messy' (that's a technical electrical term). The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire.
I misunderstood the reason for the fuse being so close to the battery. My thought was that the "gizmo" would be subjected to an overload for a longer period of time therefore increasing the risk of damage. Your explanation of course makes perfect sense.

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Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
Your wire and fuse do need to sized in accordance to each other, #10 wire gets a 30a fuse, #12 gets a 20a fuse, #14 gets a 15a fuse and so on. And you can use a smaller fuse with larger wire, but not vice versa.
Thanks Rainier_runner. This is the kind of info I need to know in order to do this job properly, and safely.

Any thoughts on a specific type of fuse block? Should I be looking at a Marine version because of water resistance?
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:20 PM   #55023
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Wolfman Rocks!!! Really good stuff and keeps on trying to make it BETTER! PLUS it's MADE IN THE USA!!!
Plus 100. called them to see what i could do to carry just one of the expedition bags since i rarely need 2. the thing is, most of the bag's weight is supported by the over the saddle straps which are permanently attached to the 2nd bag. Dusty hooked me up with some custom straps designed to loop through the opposite side's rack and hold the weight of the bag like they were designed to. awesome!!!
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:25 PM   #55024
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There are some good ideas in the above link. Ideally, a marine version would be a good choice, but some are pricey. Under the seat is fairly safe unless you're one of those crazy Aussies doing 2 foot water crossings.

The disadvantage of mounting the fuses under the seat, every circuit (wire) has to put up with flex at the steering head. But there is little room around the headlight for fuses.

I only have three gauges of wire, 10ga, 12ga and 16ga. I'd run 12 to the fuse block and 16 to the 'gizmos'.

Heat shrink is your friend, leave no metal (wire) exposed. The heat shrink should have been big enough to cover the terminals; not like this:

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Old 09-30-2011, 08:29 PM   #55025
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Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
Changing brake pads on the DR650 is easy. Just take your time.
Make sure the bike is secure on the lift and you might want to take a photo of the brake calaper befor removing the old pads so you are sure how to put on the new ones.
After removing the old pads you will need to compress the piston so the new ones (and wheel) will fit.
When test driving and a while afterwards, take it easy because the new pad will not stop as well for a while.
Good luck
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One big step you forgot to mention is once the new pads are on and bike is back on the ground squeeze the lever several times to seat everything. If you just take off on a test ride you are gonna piss yourself when you grab a handful of lever and the bike doesn't stop.
More to it still, skipped a few steps:
Once old pads are out it's good practice to clean up the caliper pistons and make sure they are free and not stuck.

Carefully squeeze lever (or brake pedal) and watch to pistons to emerge.
Sometimes one side can stick ...hold one side IN so the piston does not come out too far (it will pop out !!) eventually the stuck one will emerge.
Extend them about 3/4 of the way out to clean.

Now use a green "chore girl" type scrubby pad and clean them up with WD40 or even brake fluid. Polish them up, then depress them back in all the way and pump them out again. Be careful of rubber seals, wipe with brake fluid lightly when clean.

All smooth and consistent? Shiny pistons? No pitting? No corrosion?

Now ready to install new pads. I like to chamfer the pads edges just a bit
with sand paper. Make sure to retain the stock stainless backing plates. Clean everything and make sure holding springs are in correctly and pads are in correctly.

Once pads are in force them open all the way (use two small wood blocks and a tire iron) .

Now bleed system, exchanging out ALL old brake fluid for NEW fluid from a NEW, sealed can.

There are a few other tips and tricks but those are the basics. Very easy
on the DR650.

EDIT: just realized AV8 did a nice pictorial on this a few pages back ... very good. I forgot to mention the anti-seize on the pin and threads.
(been out riding)

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Old 09-30-2011, 09:19 PM   #55026
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tire size

Im sure this has been gone over several times, but I am unable to find it. Which size tire is best suited for the rear of a DR650, 5.10 or 4.60 17?

thanks, Brad
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:27 PM   #55027
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
...Heat shrink is your friend, leave no metal (wire) exposed. The heat shrink should have been big enough to cover the terminals; not like this:

agreed on the heat shrink, but you can buy terminal clips that have plastic or rubber sheathing on them; makes life easier. there's lotsa different types; here's an example:


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Old 09-30-2011, 09:37 PM   #55028
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:11 AM   #55029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhino_adv View Post
Im sure this has been gone over several times, but I am unable to find it. Which size tire is best suited for the rear of a DR650, 5.10 or 4.60 17?

thanks, Brad
I just ordered some new tires! The 4.60 (120) is stock, but the 5.10 (130) fits just fine. I ordered a 130 because I'll take all the traction I can get. Probably not a huge difference between the two though. Maybe if you're racing supermoto you might notice a bit of difference in the lean in?
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:30 AM   #55030
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Originally Posted by rhino_adv View Post
Im sure this has been gone over several times, but I am unable to find it. Which size tire is best suited for the rear of a DR650, 5.10 or 4.60 17?

thanks, Brad
most use 130/5.10 - 17"
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:35 AM   #55031
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Low fender?

Any one out there run a low front fender? If so, what kind? I'd like to see if it helps with buffeting at highway speeds. Procycle used to have a kit, but it's gone now. I'm sure I could run one off a fork brace, but what kind of fender? Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:52 AM   #55032
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...0block&_sacat=

There are some good ideas in the above link. Ideally, a marine version would be a good choice, but some are pricey. Under the seat is fairly safe unless you're one of those crazy Aussies doing 2 foot water crossings.

The disadvantage of mounting the fuses under the seat, every circuit (wire) has to put up with flex at the steering head. But there is little room around the headlight for fuses.

I only have three gauges of wire, 10ga, 12ga and 16ga. I'd run 12 to the fuse block and 16 to the 'gizmos'.

Heat shrink is your friend, leave no metal (wire) exposed. The heat shrink should have been big enough to cover the terminals; not like this:

As much as I like to believe (in my dreams) that I can handle 2' water crossings the likelihood of that happening are slim unless the 2' is measured on the horizontal. Ya know, bike lying on its side in 6" of running water like I see in the Dropped Bikes thread.

I appreciate all the replies and will be looking for a marine fuse distribution block to handle easy connection and management of all my electrical "gizmos". I don't mind spending some $ on a good one because when the electrics go bad things seem to come to an awfully fast stop, and nobody wants that.

To Do List - Call marine supply houses nearby to source an appropriate block, buy different gauges of wire, heat shrink, soldering gun and some connectors. I've already got some dielectric grease that I've been using on OEM connections.

One last question - Are there any gizmos that I should be powering directly from the battery for any reason?

Wish me luck.
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:30 AM   #55033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
...............
One last question - Are there any gizmos that I should be powering directly from the battery for any reason?

Wish me luck.

I really like to have my GPS powered directly (well, with a fuse in-line) from the battery. It makes it much nicer not to have to leave the bike running when stopped to check on directions or progress. The current draw is very low, not much chance of it killing the battery unless you leave it running for a couple of days without starting the bike. While everything "marine grade" costs more, I am rather fond of using Ancor brand wire and terminals on my bike mods. The wire uses more small diameter strands which are individually tinned so it flexes better while resisting vibration cracking and corrosion. When possible I use their adhesive lined heat shrink terminals for the same reasons. I think that I have been using their stuff for almost 20 years without ever having to "redo" a connection other than to accomodate other changes.


Bruce
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:21 PM   #55034
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Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
As much as I like to believe (in my dreams) that I can handle 2' water crossings the likelihood of that happening are slim unless the 2' is measured on the horizontal. Ya know, bike lying on its side in 6" of running water like I see in the Dropped Bikes thread.
I'm not quite sure why, but this seems a little deja vu.

Quote:
I appreciate all the replies and will be looking for a marine fuse distribution block to handle easy connection and management of all my electrical "gizmos". I don't mind spending some $ on a good one because when the electrics go bad things seem to come to an awfully fast stop, and nobody wants that.
Amen. A buddy buys the cheapest crap he can find, and then stares in amazement when it fails.

Quote:
To Do List - Call marine supply houses nearby to source an appropriate block, buy different gauges of wire, heat shrink, soldering gun and some connectors. I've already got some dielectric grease that I've been using on OEM connections.
You're way ahead of other guys with this thinking.

Quote:
One last question -


Quote:
Are there any gizmos that I should be powering directly from the battery for any reason?
Fire Escape covered the GPS. You mentioned a 12v powerlet, that should be hot so you don't run down the battery while pumping up a tire. Some have put an on/off switch on the headlight, to free some watts, including me. (no, I don't remember how I did it)

Quote:
Wish me luck.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 10-01-2011, 01:18 PM   #55035
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Mounted my new Shinko 705's today!

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