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Old 10-07-2011, 07:33 PM   #55231
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I have a stock 06 DR650, recently sold some goodies to finance a jet kit, airbox mod, exhaust... when I called to order, was recommended that I go the TM40 route, opening up a whole new set of issues. If you had a 500.00 budget, what would you do and where would you start?
I'd start in ME, and I could probably make it all the way to CA on $500. Go for a ride.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:43 PM   #55232
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Originally Posted by rockydrxrvr View Post
Well, if 36 mpg. is okay, down from 50 mpg,...then jet kit knock yourself out. I was sorry I did it. At todays gas prices, and long ride in Baja Outback, I was the fuel worry problem child riding with KLRs and BMWs in remote areas. I love that big single torque just as stock gave me, But I'm an old fart. On my new DR.....50 mpg, and only drilled out the idle jet plug and enrichened that circuit.
14 tooth sprocket, Bash Plate, Hand Guards, Bar Risers, REAR RACK, ....and most important a Coleman ATV Seat Cover with 1 inch of foam underneath that. (not in the pic. that follows though)
Yah,Ive some how gone 25000 miles on my DR with a totally stock carb,with a 14 tooth countershaft I can get the front tire off the ground ok.
Airfilter stays clean a long time with uncut airbox,always 50 mpg at least. I just didnt get this bike to spend time with the wrenches or ride it on technical trails where a pumper carb might be better.
I have another bike for dirt thrashing that doesnt weigh 400 lbs. Ive had a blast every time Ive ridden my DR somewhere,what sort of carb it has doesnt enter my mind. I mainly want it to run a long time,suspension is what really helped mine out,now that is horrific stock,as is the seat,and tires,and bars,gas tank,grips,taillight,footpegs,my Corbin seat finally broke in with this many miles on it and is good for 600 miles at a sitting.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:45 PM   #55233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I have a stock 06 DR650, recently sold some goodies to finance a jet kit, airbox mod, exhaust... when I called to order, was recommended that I go the TM40 route, opening up a whole new set of issues. If you had a 500.00 budget, what would you do and where would you start?
Skid plate and case savers should be at the top of the list. Remove top chain roller (free). 14t sprocket. Maybe a seat. If it is running good I would wait to get into the carb. You may find suspension is more important to you. Ride it awhile and assess its performance for your style of riding. You will have a lot better idea of what you want after some miles. Good luck
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:46 PM   #55234
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Originally Posted by acap650 View Post
It's a trials tire. Even though DOT approved probably not good for pavement - trials bikes run near single digit pressure in the tires and rarely exceed 40 mph. Also note the square profile would make leaning on pavement a challenge.
Trials bikes do run extremely low pressures but these bikes aren't trials bikes.

The Pirelli MT43 is rated to 280kg @ 33psi cold.

Leaning on pavement is only an issue if aired down to 12psi or lower.
Then you allow for it.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:48 PM   #55235
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
What are you planning to use it for. Offroad?

Skidplate first. Then handguards & better handlebars. Then tires. DynoJet kit in the carb is fine, cut the airbox and drill thr second hole in the slide.
14 tooth sprkt. You're up to about $400 now.

On road? I'll let someone else speak to that.
SEAT!!!!!!!!! That stocker is beyond a torture rack! Hunt down a better one on ebay or put on a Seat Concepts kit.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #55236
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Originally Posted by tobbik View Post
Just to say thanks, TravelGuy was spot on it was the kill switch. Now I just don't know what pisses me of more, that someone pushed i my killswitch while being parked down town, or that they actually got me with that stupid prank. Oh well, I guess I learnt my lesson ...

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Old 10-07-2011, 07:52 PM   #55237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockydrxrvr View Post
Well, if 36 mpg. is okay, down from 50 mpg,...then jet kit knock yourself out.
Any rejetted DR650 that is only getting 36 mpg is not set up correctly. When jetted right the fuel economy won't take more than a 2-3 mpg hit.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:52 PM   #55238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Trials bikes do run extremely low pressures but these bikes aren't trials bikes.

The Pirelli MT43 is rated to 280kg @ 33psi cold.

Leaning on pavement is only an issue if aired down to 12psi or lower.
Then you allow for it.
I upped my dirt tracking corner speed so much with a MT43 it was borderline dangerous,stop quicker coming in,hook up harder coming out of the corner with no rear end waggling all over the place.
The scary thing is I could have gone faster. This on my DRZe,its been an over sliding sort of bike no matter what back tire I put on it,not anymore. Ive only ran it down to 13 lbs so far,friends get away with 11,Im a little paranoid about flats still,they sure smooth the ride out though.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:11 PM   #55239
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I left a ride report about my trip in the Colorado mountains on my DR650...


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post17026939
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:30 PM   #55240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EBMOTT View Post
MY seat measures 11 3/4 inches at it widest seating area. Now having both seats a corban on my 97 dr560 i do have to say i like the sargent better. it fits on any tank combo out there. it fits perfectly on my safari tank with no problem.
hope this helps
chears mott
Thank you much, i think that way the last bit i needed to be pushed to the sargent. Its cheaper and just as wide. My problem is that i ride 2 up, and i dont want to be uncomfortable on the front of the seat. I see the corbin is wider near the front, is the sargent just as good?
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:55 PM   #55241
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Thank you much, i think that way the last bit i needed to be pushed to the sargent. Its cheaper and just as wide. My problem is that i ride 2 up, and i dont want to be uncomfortable on the front of the seat. I see the corbin is wider near the front, is the sargent just as good?
There are some good pics of both the Corbin and Sargent on this thread.
Here is an above shot of my Corbin. The Corbin takes ages to break in and get comfortable. At least 2 or 3000 miles of seat time. Mine is now up to 40,000 ... the Corbin is not bad for multiple 400 mile days if you're head is in it.

You may see Corbins for sale used from time to time ... Sargent's too.

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Old 10-07-2011, 08:56 PM   #55242
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If you're running 520 sprockets, go for DR750 ones over pre96 DR650 ones...
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:56 PM   #55243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Thank you much, i think that way the last bit i needed to be pushed to the sargent. Its cheaper and just as wide. My problem is that i ride 2 up, and i dont want to be uncomfortable on the front of the seat. I see the corbin is wider near the front, is the sargent just as good?
I've owned Corbin's on BMW's, TravelCade's on the Gold Wing, and I have a Sargeant on the DR.

Anything is better than the stock pine rail ... uh, saddle that comes on the DR650.

FWIW, to my thinking the average rider who just needs a bit more comfort for all-day rides or longer tours would find comfort a toss-up between Corbin and Sargeant.

The primary tipping point for me on buying the Sargeant for the DR was because it will fit any aftermarket tank.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:16 PM   #55244
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Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
The primary tipping point for me on buying the Sargeant for the DR was because it will fit any aftermarket tank.
The Corbin also weights as much as a small child fed on McDonalds.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:52 PM   #55245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I have a stock 06 DR650, recently sold some goodies to finance a jet kit, airbox mod, exhaust... when I called to order, was recommended that I go the TM40 route, opening up a whole new set of issues. If you had a 500.00 budget, what would you do and where would you start?
Don't spend money you don't have to. A carb-tuning kit might be perfectly fine for you until you have other areas of the bike set up for you and you still have some money to burn. THEN get a flatslide pumper carb...and a 780 kit with a cam. IMO, if you're near sea-level, you NEED to richen the carbing to get it running right.

Forget Dynojet and the other kits that just have jets. Get the Procycle kit with the main jets, the adjustable needle, the extended mixture screw, the slide-drilling drillbit, and instructions/support. While a pumper carb would be awesome, you can get the DR running pretty nicely with a properly-tuned stock carb. I have stock sprockets and mine gets around 50MPG. Throttle response is ridiculous compared to stock now. It pulls the front wheel with just a blip of the throttle in 1st. 2nd takes a purposeful decel-blip at some revs, but it still comes up without me pulling or clutching. A 14T CS would be silly. I also have an FMF Q2 muffler and a Uni filter, but I haven't ground the header weld yet. It hauls us 2-up with luggage down the slab faster than any legal speed limit in this country, and it pulls higher gears at lower speeds smoothly now. I can shift to 5th at 45MPH (indicated), and it'll still pull it. It also runs cooler, starts easier, and comes off choke quicker.

If you're not getting close to 45-55MPG (hwy), riding somewhat sedately with a DR650SE, something isn't adjusted right. Common tune culprits are the needle position, the mixture screw adjustment, the pilot jet, and the main jet. If the main jet is the recommended one and it test-rides well per Procycle's instructions, I'd start with going leaner on the needle and then adjusting the mixture screw per instructions. If there isn't enough adjustment in the needle and the mixture screw, try a 1-size smaller pilot jet and start testing needle/screw settings again.

You don't even really have to remove the carb to do the Procycle kit. Just drain the bowl into a paper cup and pour that back into the tank, pull the lines and cables, remove the plastics, seat, and tank, then loosen the carb boot clamps, and rotate the carb to access the top or bottom. Use a good #2 Phillips bit, and a cordless drill with the clutch set fairly soft (I used "5" on my drill), to break the OEM screws loose. I had to go up one slot leaner on the needle from Procycle's instructions though, as my idle mix was too rich to adjust with the range the mixture screw affords. The kit is do-able with a stock exhaust too, so you don't have to spend your money there just yet. I WOULD recommend getting a filter better than the OEM or a K&N. Uni or Twinair come to mind.

- Get a decent service manual.
- Get a flat-repair kit and the tools to do it (BeadBuddy, EnduroStar trail-stand, combo 24mm/19mm/12-13mm wrench/levers for axle nuts, spokes and tire beads). Get the tools to check your intake/exhaust valves too.
- Get a skid and case protection if you're riding any dirt...or carry a lot of Quiksteel and spare quarts of oil. Armor is more responsible though.
- Do the DR fixes. Swap the upper chain-roller for a Loc-tited setscrew ($0.90 @ Ace Hardware), Loc-tite and torque the NSU screws and the primary nut, grease the steering and swingarm bearings, and torque all reachable fasteners to spec.
- A lot of people like to get oil filter magnets and magnetic crankcase plugs.
- Loosen the barclamps on your clutch and front brake levers slightly, so they can rotate if hit. Drill the levers near the balls. Tusk handguards are also super affordable and pretty strong.
- ATV Logic tank panniers and tankbag are extremely inexpensive and fit stock or aftermarket DR tanks with just a different adjustable rear strap for the tankbag. Some people also stitch straps to the bottom front of the tank panniers for better retention than the supplied velcro provides. The bags give you a place to carry your registration, maps, GPS, beverages, extra layers, etc., and they weigh almost nothing...for a fraction of the cost of something like Wolfman or Giant Loop tank luggage.
- Set up the suspension for your weight with cargo. You'll likely need heavier springs, fork oil, and shock oil...minimum.
- Ride the snot out of it and decide what else you want to do. Your butt may toughen up enough for the stock seat to be a non-issue. You may prefer no windscreen. You may want even more power.

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