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Old 10-08-2011, 08:37 AM   #55261
JagLite
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Question Rear shock interchange?

I was on Ebay the other day and noticed there were several (new take-off) Honda CRF 250/450 shocks for cheap.

That made me wonder if any of the popular 250/450 mx bikes shocks would fit the DR? (Not only current models)
Seems like many mx racers toss the stock shock for better ones, but the stock shock on a motocross bike might be far better than the DR stock shock.

And, far less expensive than spending hundreds to rebuild or replace the stocker with the usual suspects.
I would love to be able to afford a Cogent or Ricor, or even an Ohlins, but no can do.

It is great to read that the forks from other bikes will work so what about the rear end?
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:16 AM   #55262
Zapp22
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some here had followed mxrob's FI project.
here's one of the dyno run posts:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...&postcount=518

i believe his cylinder was bone stock




Quote:
Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
Porter Bros in England were getting nearly 80BHP out of Rotax motors,but that was including
fuel injection,and the "CC's" were away up.Been trying without success to talk to them for over
the last year-they may have folded in the recession.If anyone in England know,let me know!
My mate had Carl Fogertys ex-CCM,Rotax'd one,not a Suzuki,and it was mid 60's.
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:20 AM   #55263
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Tip for IMS "vapor lock" airpocket carb stopper

I left the '97 outdoors in the unstoppable Texas heat, with the fuel valve in the off position and enough vaporization took place to create the dreaded air pocket - artifact of the strange routing of the feeder line from the IMS petcock to the stock carb inlet tube. in the past I dealt with that by pulling the hose off and pouring gasoline down 'til filled. but I wondered to myself "is that tank tight? and will the cap hold pressure?". So, i took a big breath and blew into the vent hose - Sure enough, I pressurized the tank! i guess it helped that it was warm so the plastic was a bit flexy. it was quite suprising how much pressure one can build in that thing, and when you let loose, it spews that gassy air back out for several seconds! Anyway,, it worked like a charm. Turned the crank while holding pressure in the tank and she hacked a couple of coughs, then began running quite smoothly.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:11 AM   #55264
vnsfxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Maybe someone on here has the same dimensions as me, I'm 5'8" 180 lbs, 30" inseam... There aren't many dr650's around these parts to go test seats :(
Well I'm not close to you - 6' 1" at 185lb with a 34" inseam. I have had both Corbin and Sargent on other bikes. I went with Sargent as I already know I like their foam density and did not want to go through the break in period of a Corbin or have to guess on having a seat made for me..

11.5" is way more comfortable than the stock 8" seat width!!!!!!

Go on to Pro Cycle's web site for all the options available. Many choices and the issue of your leg length can be addressed.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:19 AM   #55265
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Thumb Con grats

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Picked up my first Dual Sport today. A new 2011 DR650!
GOOD FOR , YOUR GOING TO LOVE IT. GET OUT AND RIDE. I REMEMBER WHEN WHEN MY LOOKED LIKE THAT. ALL BRAN NEW AND STUFF.
WELCOME TO THE
LOYAL ORDER of the DELTA ROMEO 650
CHEARS MOTT
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:23 AM   #55266
EBMOTT
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Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Thank you very much for the info.

TravelGuy
KICK DOWN SOME PICS WHEN YOUR DONE. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:59 AM   #55267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
As you say, a stock '06 US model including California has a non adjustable 6F23 needle in it (in fact '96 -'11 models do). You may want to re-read what I wrote, as I never claimed otherwise. However, the parts diagram I provided is for a US model including California, which means that the order of parts from top to bottom is in fact: diaphragm cover, spring, spring seat, needle clip, shim washer (if you use one), plastic ring, slide.

Regards,

Derek
dense. no needle.clip on a fixed needle and no clip positions.

fixed has no clip.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:08 AM   #55268
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Picked up my first Dual Sport today. A new 2011 DR650!
I've got the same bike, 2011 DR650 and went to Highland High School, if you know where that is.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:20 AM   #55269
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
dense. no needle.clip on a fixed needle and no clip positions.

fixed has no clip.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
The fixed needles do use a clip, but there is only one clip groove. The parts diagram I provided is for models with a fixed needle.

Please take and post a picture of your OEM needle with the plastic ring removed. That should help us get to the bottom of things.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:08 PM   #55270
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Something I've noticed about the DR is it doesn't have the greatest brakes, but that's okay with me, I can accept it. However, have any of you guys experienced the rear brake being really soft/squishy/seems like excess travel to get it to brake like it should? But then later on the ride it's firmer, and doesn't need large amounts of travel to brake well? I don't always notice this, but occasionally i do. I'm not new to working on brakes, and when I first got the bike the fluid was old and dark, so I bled the system really well with fresh fluid. Do you think I need to rebuild my rear master cylinder?


Something of interest not related to the DR650 thread, except it has two wheels and runs on diesel.... Anyone looked into it before, looks like its for sale to the military only for now....

Website: http://www.hayes-dt.com/index.htm

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRzP_NMIYrU

Another Video (mail call) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtcd1kSdlQY

Pretty cool if you ask me, I would live to test ride one...
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:35 PM   #55271
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Don't spend money you don't have to. A carb-tuning kit might be perfectly fine for you until you have other areas of the bike set up for you and you still have some money to burn. THEN get a flatslide pumper carb...and a 780 kit with a cam. IMO, if you're near sea-level, you NEED to richen the carbing to get it running right.

Forget Dynojet and the other kits that just have jets. Get the Procycle kit with the main jets, the adjustable needle, the extended mixture screw, the slide-drilling drillbit, and instructions/support. While a pumper carb would be awesome, you can get the DR running pretty nicely with a properly-tuned stock carb. I have stock sprockets and mine gets around 50MPG. Throttle response is ridiculous compared to stock now. It pulls the front wheel with just a blip of the throttle in 1st. 2nd takes a purposeful decel-blip at some revs, but it still comes up without me pulling or clutching. A 14T CS would be silly. I also have an FMF Q2 muffler and a Uni filter, but I haven't ground the header weld yet. It hauls us 2-up with luggage down the slab faster than any legal speed limit in this country, and it pulls higher gears at lower speeds smoothly now. I can shift to 5th at 45MPH (indicated), and it'll still pull it. It also runs cooler, starts easier, and comes off choke quicker.

If you're not getting close to 45-55MPG (hwy), riding somewhat sedately with a DR650SE, something isn't adjusted right. Common tune culprits are the needle position, the mixture screw adjustment, the pilot jet, and the main jet. If the main jet is the recommended one and it test-rides well per Procycle's instructions, I'd start with going leaner on the needle and then adjusting the mixture screw per instructions. If there isn't enough adjustment in the needle and the mixture screw, try a 1-size smaller pilot jet and start testing needle/screw settings again.

You don't even really have to remove the carb to do the Procycle kit. Just drain the bowl into a paper cup and pour that back into the tank, pull the lines and cables, remove the plastics, seat, and tank, then loosen the carb boot clamps, and rotate the carb to access the top or bottom. Use a good #2 Phillips bit, and a cordless drill with the clutch set fairly soft (I used "5" on my drill), to break the OEM screws loose. I had to go up one slot leaner on the needle from Procycle's instructions though, as my idle mix was too rich to adjust with the range the mixture screw affords. The kit is do-able with a stock exhaust too, so you don't have to spend your money there just yet. I WOULD recommend getting a filter better than the OEM or a K&N. Uni or Twinair come to mind.

- Get a decent service manual.
- Get a flat-repair kit and the tools to do it (BeadBuddy, EnduroStar trail-stand, combo 24mm/19mm/12-13mm wrench/levers for axle nuts, spokes and tire beads). Get the tools to check your intake/exhaust valves too.
- Get a skid and case protection if you're riding any dirt...or carry a lot of Quiksteel and spare quarts of oil. Armor is more responsible though.
- Do the DR fixes. Swap the upper chain-roller for a Loc-tited setscrew ($0.90 @ Ace Hardware), Loc-tite and torque the NSU screws and the primary nut, grease the steering and swingarm bearings, and torque all reachable fasteners to spec.
- A lot of people like to get oil filter magnets and magnetic crankcase plugs.
- Loosen the barclamps on your clutch and front brake levers slightly, so they can rotate if hit. Drill the levers near the balls. Tusk handguards are also super affordable and pretty strong.
- ATV Logic tank panniers and tankbag are extremely inexpensive and fit stock or aftermarket DR tanks with just a different adjustable rear strap for the tankbag. Some people also stitch straps to the bottom front of the tank panniers for better retention than the supplied velcro provides. The bags give you a place to carry your registration, maps, GPS, beverages, extra layers, etc., and they weigh almost nothing...for a fraction of the cost of something like Wolfman or Giant Loop tank luggage.
- Set up the suspension for your weight with cargo. You'll likely need heavier springs, fork oil, and shock oil...minimum.
- Ride the snot out of it and decide what else you want to do. Your butt may toughen up enough for the stock seat to be a non-issue. You may prefer no windscreen. You may want even more power.
wow... great comments based on common sense, as if Thomas Paine rode a DR
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:08 PM   #55272
Escaped
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No rear brake issues, back brake is always the same; never soft or squishy. So maybe you should tear into the rear master / wheel cylinder.

Only once did I feel my DR650 brakes were inadequate. I was coming down from the Sierra mountains on the freeway at a good pace, it was hot - well over 100F. I pulled off on a down sloping off ramp, approached the stop applied the brakes and nothing, the bike did not seem to slow down at all , eventually it stopped, a few feet past the line - no fault, no harm!

After a short wait at a mini market, time enough to drink a big container of Gatorade, brakes were back to normal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Something I've noticed about the DR is it doesn't have the greatest brakes, but that's okay with me, I can accept it. However, have any of you guys experienced the rear brake being really soft/squishy/seems like excess travel to get it to brake like it should? But then later on the ride it's firmer, and doesn't need large amounts of travel to brake well? I don't always notice this, but occasionally i do. I'm not new to working on brakes, and when I first got the bike the fluid was old and dark, so I bled the system really well with fresh fluid. Do you think I need to rebuild my rear master cylinder?
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:19 PM   #55273
skysailor
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Ebay Find

2002 with 8xxx miles. New fork seals. Looks very clean. Can't really get to see it because it'll be a 10 hour drive in the GMC to pick up. 2600$ Selling because they're into quads. Questions I should ask, etc.? Too much? Thanks
Lyle
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:29 PM   #55274
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobbik View Post
Just to say thanks, TravelGuy was spot on it was the kill switch. Now I just don't know what pisses me of more, that someone pushed i my killswitch while being parked down town, or that they actually got me with that stupid prank. Oh well, I guess I learnt my lesson ...

-t
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Someone mentioned this earlier and I like it. Hint for the electically challenged: it's inside the kill switch. And be careful, there's small springloaded pieces.

Momentary kill switch mod:
.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:36 PM   #55275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
True, that's my experience - 46 to 48 with re jetted.
It might depend some on elevation as well but, when I had my 09 DR with the cut airbox, DJ kit and a freeer flowing exhaust (plug was a nice light tan) I consistantly got 56mpg riding like a human being on the road and; that was with 4 extra teeth on the rear sprocket.
Always kept my air psi up to the max on the swingarm for road use and used IRC GP GP1's or 110's.
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