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Old 10-09-2011, 03:47 PM   #55336
epix1718
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Still waiting on a rear spacer for the rear supermoto wheel but decided to mount the front anyways
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #55337
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
drilling the slide also reduces damping, which will lead to increased slide guide, emulsion tube, needle and slide wear.
Not to mention increased fun.
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:36 PM   #55338
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Not to mention increased fun.
...As long as you don't mind replacing the parts a bit more often.

See:
Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Slides, new and used
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Jet needles, new and used

Scroll down for description and links. Click image for high-res view.

Consider that there is an intake pulse every 720 degrees, which is what raises the slide. Between those pulses, the slide spring and gravity try to push the slide back down. In order for the slide to be allowed to be pushed back down, the vacuum above diaphragm has to bleed off through the slide lift holes. The larger the slide lift holes, the faster that vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the greater the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse. At the next pulse, the slide has to be pulled back up by the distance it fell (more if there is acceleration, less if there is deceleration). Conversely, the smaller the lift holes, the slower the vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide has to be pulled back up at the next pulse.

My opinion is that the perceived benefits of slide drilling may be at least somewhat related to resultant changes in fuel metering rather than to the speed at which the slide is allowed to move, in which case one should instead concentrate on achieving the correct float height, pilot jet, needle profile and clip position. Then most if not all of the benefits could be achieved without additional wear on a carburetor that is already chronically wear prone.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:08 PM   #55339
TRAVELGUY
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Thanks !

Can you still change the amount of travel as with the factory lowering?

Travel Guy

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Yes, the length is the same.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:12 PM   #55340
996DL
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Whenever I read your stuff Derek, I get light headed, feel kinda sleepy, begin to doubt any and all mechanical abilities I thought I might have, but mostly I just appreciate just how well my traditional Jesse / DynaJet modded BST 40 DR650 is performing, once I dropped the DJ needle one step leaner (c-clip 3 down).

Do you ride a DR650 ?

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Old 10-09-2011, 05:16 PM   #55341
The Rizz
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Location: Golden, CO
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Bar risers

I just wanted to recommend the Powermadd bar risers that Procycle sells. I got tired of trying to figure out what bend of handlebar I wanted. The shape of the stock bar is ok, I just needed it a little higher and further forward. The Powermadd risers accomplish this perfectly. Easy install in less than 5 minutes. Very well made and quick shipping from Procycle.

I also installed the Polly Heaters hand warmers. It was a major pain in the ass drilling the bars and setting up the wiring. I didn't even have to remove the grips though. It probably would've been much easier without handguards, but if I did it again, I'd just go with the Dualstar heaters.
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:23 PM   #55342
TRAVELGUY
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Very impressive. Thanks for posting!

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
...As long as you don't mind replacing the parts a bit more often.

See:
Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Slides, new and used
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Jet needles, new and used

Scroll down for description and links. Click image for high-res view.

Consider that there is an intake pulse every 720 degrees, which is what raises the slide. Between those pulses, the slide spring and gravity try to push the slide back down. In order for the slide to be allowed to be pushed back down, the vacuum above diaphragm has to bleed off through the slide lift holes. The larger the slide lift holes, the faster that vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the greater the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse. At the next pulse, the slide has to be pulled back up by the distance it fell (more if there is acceleration, less if there is deceleration). Conversely, the smaller the lift holes, the slower the vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide has to be pulled back up at the next pulse.

My opinion is that the perceived benefits of slide drilling may be at least somewhat related to resultant changes in fuel metering rather than to the speed at which the slide is allowed to move, in which case one should instead concentrate on achieving the correct float height, pilot jet, needle profile and clip position. Then most if not all of the benefits could be achieved without additional wear on a carburetor that is already chronically wear prone.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:44 PM   #55343
bambalam
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Solid/Cast Wheels for DR650?

I am looking to see if there are some solid cast wheels for the DR650, but that are good for DS tires...? I am not looking for a supermoto conversion.

I would like to run tubeless DS tires (do they exist?) I am not concerned with the "shock absorbing" capacity of spoked wheels (which ppl like for offroad use) since I don't take this hardcore offroad and never get any air or huge bumps. (Mostly gravel roads, dirt roads, fire trails and powerlines).

My main reason for doing this is to eliminate the tube. I like plugging/patching tires and don't want to mess with a tube when I'm far from home.

Is this a good idea? What wheels are out there for me?

Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:24 PM   #55344
Luisgv
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Hi friend, i want to buy this set of wheels, i'm from venezuela, i can't find it over here, may you help me to buy it? how can i do to do it?? thanks for help!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
IIRC I ended up filing a small bevel onto the offending part of the caliper.




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Old 10-09-2011, 06:29 PM   #55345
epix1718
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Luis, contact ProCycle. Them friendly guys will be able to help you out for sure.

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#wheels
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:15 PM   #55346
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Thanks !

Can you still change the amount of travel as with the factory lowering?

Travel Guy
No, Race Tech did not incorporate a way to limit the travel in the lowered position. In my experience it's not really needed. With the stiffer spring and improved damping there's not much need to limit the travel like there is with the wimpy stock spring and limp stock damping.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:27 PM   #55347
Luisgv
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Thanks for help friend..

Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Luis, contact ProCycle. Them friendly guys will be able to help you out for sure.

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#wheels
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:50 PM   #55348
poppawheelie
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Gel Seat + Sweet Cheeks

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxjett View Post
my Dr650 had the factory gel seat on it when I got and after some seat time it suckes. so put the stock seat on and it much better than the gel. So whats your opinions maybe I didn't give the Gel enough time. SO anyway does anyone what an almost new Gel seat for the DR?
Sweet Cheeks thrown over the Suzuki Gel Seat make it a WHOLE LOT more comfortable. Plus you can carry an extra liter of water, gas, or whatever. http://cycle-analyst.com/sweetcheeks.htm
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:10 PM   #55349
Biker Buzz
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Snorkel Controversy

Ok. I just bought a new 2011 DR650 this weekend. While checking out different postings on this much exhaused subject, I have a theory...like everyone else. At the risk of beating a dead horse here's my take on the subject.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After much thought, this is my take on the snorkel removal and why it helps performance. If you take the snorkel tube and squeeze it until round, as I did, you'll notice that it is barely smaller than the hole it came out of. So, I doubt that by removing it, it will have any significant change in the leaness of the fuel to air ratio. However, the snorkel does have about a 45 degree bend in it. We know that bends in ducts, pipes, etc., will reduce velocity (speed of flow). That's why exhaust headers work better than cast iron exhaust manifold...they have smoother, more uniformed bends that enhance flow...they simply allow better flow. The same is true for aftermarket air cleaners such as K&N filters. They simply allow air to flow better/faster/more efficiently. They do nothing to change the air/fuel ratio.
Sooooooooooo. Just by simply removing the snorkel you will not make the bike run leaner, you'll will get the air in faster (because the 45 degree bend has been straightened out, so to speak.). And after changing to a less restrictive muffler, you'll get the air out faster, which equals better performance because... (going back to my original statement) engines are basically just air pumps...they take it in and push it out.

Look at it this way; you can only cram so much air through the carburetors jets, venturis, orifices, etc. . The reason the have a particular size air box is to have a particular size filter necessary to do the job. You can remove the air box/filter assembly all together and the only thing that would change would be the ability to FLOW air more efficiently, not flow MORE air efficiently...not increased volume...increased velocity. Makes sense, huh?
What do you think?

However, I do think the shape of the snorkel is helpful in keeping debris/water out of the airbox.

Biker Buzz screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 10:09 PM Reason: typo
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:29 PM   #55350
vnsfxr
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Location: Lake County California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Finally decided on a seat. Went with a Sargent Low.. Hopefully it works out well. My "Custom" dr650 seat is 9" wide, which is only 1" bigger then stock from what I understand. The part that annoys me the most is that I spent $200 to make this seat.. Oo well, hopefully the Sargent makes me fell better
Send your stock seat pan to ProCycle and get a $75 store credit or $50 to help defray the cost of the Sargent. You know you will eventually need something they have.
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