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Old 10-10-2011, 02:17 AM   #55351
Pickled Amnesiac
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Question side cover protectors

hi guys... where do you get the stick on side cover (case) protectors?

search seems reluctantat the moment...

cheers fish.
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:13 AM   #55352
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Nope. Not more air...faster air. Volume is not increased... but velocity is increased. The restriction, as you mentioned, is not the size of the snorkel, it's the shape of the snorkel. Volume remains the same. (If the inside diameter of snorkel is same as hole in which snorkel is inserted...or close in size.)
The only way to increase velocity without increasing volume/cfm is to restrict the aperture.
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:39 AM   #55353
silverwolf
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishbulb View Post
hi guys... where do you get the stick on side cover (case) protectors?

search seems reluctantat the moment...

cheers fish.
procycle
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:53 AM   #55354
silverwolf
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Bikerbuzz.... it is more air. It is the same volume but it is more air. Confused yet. Air is a compressible substance so anything you do to restrict its flow causes a loss of pressure which means less molecules are present in the same volume. Bikes that have major modifications to exhaust or intake without changing the jetting typically run very badly because the air fuel ratio is way off.

PV=nRT is the ideal gas law which isn't strictly applicable here but it may help. P= pressure, V= volume, n = mass, R=universal gas constant, and T = temp. Ever notice your bike run differently when it's cold. Cold air is more dense given the same mass, pressure and volume (atmospheric pressure is fairly constant, but is affected by elevation and to a lesser extent weather). If you have the same volume and same temperature but less pressure you also have less mass to make the equation balance.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:36 AM   #55355
Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Makes sense, huh?
What do you think?
It's a helmholz resonator. The tube and box work in conjunction with one another to solve whatever problem the designer had in mind. In this case, it may have been to get the motor to run lean enough at one RPM range to allow it to pass an EPA test cycle. It may have been to get the airbox to be quiet enough to pass some test. It apparently wasn't designed to increase power.

From the Wikipedia:

It can be shown[2] that the resonant angular frequency is given by:
(rad/s),
where:
  • γ (gamma) is the adiabatic index or ratio of specific heats. This value is usually 1.4 for air and diatomic gases.
  • A is the cross-sectional area of the neck
  • m is the mass in the neck
  • P0 is the static pressure in the cavity
  • V0 is the static volume of the cavity
For cylindrical or rectangular necks, we have
,
where:
  • L is the length of the neck
  • Vn is the volume of air in the neck
(Boring density stuff deleted for brevity....)

thus, the frequency of the resonance is:
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:58 AM   #55356
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishbulb View Post
hi guys... where do you get the stick on side cover (case) protectors?

search seems reluctantat the moment...

cheers fish.
Bad form to quote myself, but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Might be prudent to add case savers. These should help in case of a tip over. They install in 10 minutes with a heavy bed (cushion) of hi-temp silicone (clean and degrease with isopropyl alcohol first).

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html



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Old 10-10-2011, 07:05 AM   #55357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Ok. I just bought a new 2011 DR650 this weekend. While checking out different postings on this much exhaused subject, I have a theory...like everyone else. At the risk of beating a dead horse here's my take on the subject.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just by simply removing the snorkel you will not make the bike run leaner, you'll will get the air in faster (because the 45 degree bend has been straightened out, so to speak.). And after changing to a less restrictive muffler, you'll get the air out faster, which equals better performance because... (going back to my original statement) engines are basically just air pumps...they take it in and push it out.

Look at it this way; you can only cram so much air through the carburetors jets, venturis, orifices, etc. . The reason the have a particular size air box is to have a particular size filter necessary to do the job. You can remove the air box/filter assembly all together and the only thing that would change would be the ability to FLOW air more efficiently, not flow MORE air efficiently...not increased volume...increased velocity. Makes sense, huh?
What do you think?

However, I do think the shape of the snorkel is helpful in keeping debris/water out of the airbox.
First, Congrats on the new bike!
I won't even attempt explaining carb theory (probabaly better for all), But I will tell you that opening up the air box and exhaust will result in a lean condition. You may get away with pulling the snorkel, depending on your altitude, but anything much more will result in a lean conditon. In fact on the DR the change can be rather dramatic. My own experience with jetting and opening up the air box hole resulted in some pretty wild swings until I got the jetting and new hole size to match up.

But feel free to experiment away, the simplicity of the DR kind of encourages it. Good luck!
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:28 AM   #55358
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sander View Post
Try sucking through a long drinking straw and then cut a short piece of and suck through that. It's harder for the motor to suck air through the snorkel so it needs a bigger pressure differential, so there has to be a lower pressure in the air box. So although the volume of the air box remains the same, there is less air in it.
thank you!

doug s.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:55 AM   #55359
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishbulb View Post
hi guys... where do you get the stick on side cover (case) protectors?
Perry, at AMP, makes them. He's got a nice little small business going and has been making them for few years now.

http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/En...n-frameset.htm

...........shu
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:19 AM   #55360
vintagespeed
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Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
....the heaviest spring specific to this shock is 6.3kg/mm from Eibach. Beyond that you'd be looking at adaptor rings (easy for a competent machinist) to mount anything heavier.
http://www.cannonracecraft.com/

YEAR MODEL FK SPRG RATES SHK SPRG RATES
2001-2005 DRZ 400 43510 .36,.38,.40,.42,.44, .46.48,.50,.52, .54 SHOWA 3.6-7.4
1999-2000 DRZ 400 44510 SPECIAL ORDER ONLY SHOWA 3.6-7.4
2000-2005 DRZ 400E 43510 .36,.38,.40,.42,.44, .46.48,.50,.52, .54 SHOWA 3.6-7.4
2000-2004 DRZ 400S 43520 SPECIAL ORDER ONLY SHOWA 3.6-7.4


takes them 5days to build custom springs, if needed.
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:23 PM   #55361
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
This thread SUCKS
... on your bicycle now mate! Better get working on your Morocco report. We're all "ears" here!

I trust you've been following Colebatch's report ... best Maroc report I've ever seen. His hand built $$$$$ BMW had shite-loads of problems ... I hope your DR is well prepped so you can fly the DR flag high! NO BREAKDOWNS! (flats are OK)

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 10-10-2011 at 02:26 PM
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:08 PM   #55362
DRinda505
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Location: Land Of Enchantment
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Intermittent Starter Issues

I have a problem with electric start not always working, I'm suspecting the neutral start switch.
Here are the details.
I have bypassed and removed the kickstand safety switch and the clutch safety switch.
When the starter doesn't crank...
I turn on the key, and all electronics (lights on...) work.
The starter does not turn over the engine, no clicks or dimming of the headlight.
I can pull the plastic cover on the starter relay, and jumper the high current relay contacts to crank the engine, but it seems like no ignition spark.
After a couple of times doing this, the starter switch will start to work, and the bike fires right up.
It will continue to work normal for a few days, then reverts to the no crank condition, and I can then repeat the process.
I have a new starter relay here, but have not swapped it yet.
My suspicion is something loose inside the cover on the neutral switch?
Do these symptoms makes sense for this?
I know I'm being trouble shooting lazy here, but I'm hoping to use this wealth of experience to solve my problem.
Thanks for the suggestions.

DRinda505
DRZ front forks
DRZ rear shock with home made lower shock mount & dogbone linkage
IMS tank
skid plate
lowered foot pegs
open airbox w/ FCRMX carb
FMF power bomb header & Q4 silencer
Self made bar risers, seat, & panniers
wanting the procycle big valve cylinder head this winter.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:14 PM   #55363
plugeye
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you eliminated the kickstand switch, so disregard the neutral switch.
check your kill switch, could be dirty
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:16 PM   #55364
Klay
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Does the flange on the front sprocket go in or out?
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:23 PM   #55365
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRinda505 View Post
I have a problem with electric start not always working, I'm suspecting the neutral start switch.
Here are the details.
I have bypassed and removed the kickstand safety switch and the clutch safety switch.
When the starter doesn't crank...
I turn on the key, and all electronics (lights on...) work.
The starter does not turn over the engine, no clicks or dimming of the headlight.
I can pull the plastic cover on the starter relay, and jumper the high current relay contacts to crank the engine, but it seems like no ignition spark.
After a couple of times doing this, the starter switch will start to work, and the bike fires right up.
It will continue to work normal for a few days, then reverts to the no crank condition, and I can then repeat the process.
I have a new starter relay here, but have not swapped it yet.
My suspicion is something loose inside the cover on the neutral switch?
Do these symptoms makes sense for this?
I know I'm being trouble shooting lazy here, but I'm hoping to use this wealth of experience to solve my problem.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Couple things to check:
1. Double Check you wiring on the side stand and clutch safety switch mods you did. Make sure nothing is shorting or grounding out causing a no start.

2. Spray some WD40 into Kill switch and Start button. Work it in there and operate the switches. Sometimes can help ... can't hurt.

3. If it won't start ... put the bike in 2nd gear and just push it forward a bit, just turning the engine a few degrees. Does it start after that?
If this is what's happening and a slight rotation allows it to start then the starter motor brushes may need dressing up and lubed ... or new brushes.
Water gets in there and can screw things up.

Could be the relay ... not sure how to check it.

Good luck.
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