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Old 10-09-2011, 04:44 PM   #55351
bambalam
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Solid/Cast Wheels for DR650?

I am looking to see if there are some solid cast wheels for the DR650, but that are good for DS tires...? I am not looking for a supermoto conversion.

I would like to run tubeless DS tires (do they exist?) I am not concerned with the "shock absorbing" capacity of spoked wheels (which ppl like for offroad use) since I don't take this hardcore offroad and never get any air or huge bumps. (Mostly gravel roads, dirt roads, fire trails and powerlines).

My main reason for doing this is to eliminate the tube. I like plugging/patching tires and don't want to mess with a tube when I'm far from home.

Is this a good idea? What wheels are out there for me?

Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:24 PM   #55352
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Hi friend, i want to buy this set of wheels, i'm from venezuela, i can't find it over here, may you help me to buy it? how can i do to do it?? thanks for help!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
IIRC I ended up filing a small bevel onto the offending part of the caliper.




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Old 10-09-2011, 05:29 PM   #55353
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Luis, contact ProCycle. Them friendly guys will be able to help you out for sure.

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#wheels
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:15 PM   #55354
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Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Thanks !

Can you still change the amount of travel as with the factory lowering?

Travel Guy
No, Race Tech did not incorporate a way to limit the travel in the lowered position. In my experience it's not really needed. With the stiffer spring and improved damping there's not much need to limit the travel like there is with the wimpy stock spring and limp stock damping.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:27 PM   #55355
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Thanks for help friend..

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Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Luis, contact ProCycle. Them friendly guys will be able to help you out for sure.

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#wheels
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:50 PM   #55356
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Gel Seat + Sweet Cheeks

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Originally Posted by maxjett View Post
my Dr650 had the factory gel seat on it when I got and after some seat time it suckes. so put the stock seat on and it much better than the gel. So whats your opinions maybe I didn't give the Gel enough time. SO anyway does anyone what an almost new Gel seat for the DR?
Sweet Cheeks thrown over the Suzuki Gel Seat make it a WHOLE LOT more comfortable. Plus you can carry an extra liter of water, gas, or whatever. http://cycle-analyst.com/sweetcheeks.htm
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:10 PM   #55357
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Snorkel Controversy

Ok. I just bought a new 2011 DR650 this weekend. While checking out different postings on this much exhaused subject, I have a theory...like everyone else. At the risk of beating a dead horse here's my take on the subject.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After much thought, this is my take on the snorkel removal and why it helps performance. If you take the snorkel tube and squeeze it until round, as I did, you'll notice that it is barely smaller than the hole it came out of. So, I doubt that by removing it, it will have any significant change in the leaness of the fuel to air ratio. However, the snorkel does have about a 45 degree bend in it. We know that bends in ducts, pipes, etc., will reduce velocity (speed of flow). That's why exhaust headers work better than cast iron exhaust manifold...they have smoother, more uniformed bends that enhance flow...they simply allow better flow. The same is true for aftermarket air cleaners such as K&N filters. They simply allow air to flow better/faster/more efficiently. They do nothing to change the air/fuel ratio.
Sooooooooooo. Just by simply removing the snorkel you will not make the bike run leaner, you'll will get the air in faster (because the 45 degree bend has been straightened out, so to speak.). And after changing to a less restrictive muffler, you'll get the air out faster, which equals better performance because... (going back to my original statement) engines are basically just air pumps...they take it in and push it out.

Look at it this way; you can only cram so much air through the carburetors jets, venturis, orifices, etc. . The reason the have a particular size air box is to have a particular size filter necessary to do the job. You can remove the air box/filter assembly all together and the only thing that would change would be the ability to FLOW air more efficiently, not flow MORE air efficiently...not increased volume...increased velocity. Makes sense, huh?
What do you think?

However, I do think the shape of the snorkel is helpful in keeping debris/water out of the airbox.

Biker Buzz screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 09:09 PM Reason: typo
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:29 PM   #55358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Finally decided on a seat. Went with a Sargent Low.. Hopefully it works out well. My "Custom" dr650 seat is 9" wide, which is only 1" bigger then stock from what I understand. The part that annoys me the most is that I spent $200 to make this seat.. Oo well, hopefully the Sargent makes me fell better
Send your stock seat pan to ProCycle and get a $75 store credit or $50 to help defray the cost of the Sargent. You know you will eventually need something they have.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:33 PM   #55359
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http://homepage.mac.com/rg500delta/T...resonance.html

By your own description, more air is getting in due to removing the snorkle. Yes, only so much air can go thru the carb but if it doesn't have to fight so hard to get the air due to the removal of a restriction, more's going to go thru. Not an expert by any means, but I think those that are would say "more air, it's leaner".....

I know pulling the snorkle was noticeable on my stock bike & cutting the box, modifying the exhaust, etc was very noticeable.

yup, it's an air pump.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:40 PM   #55360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
http://homepage.mac.com/rg500delta/T...resonance.html

By your own description, more air is getting in due to removing the snorkle. Yes, only so much air can go thru the carb but if it doesn't have to fight so hard to get the air due to the removal of a restriction, more's going to go thru. Not an expert by any means, but I think those that are would say "more air, it's leaner".....

I know pulling the snorkle was noticeable on my stock bike & cutting the box, modifying the exhaust, etc was very noticeable.

yup, it's an air pump.

Nope. Not more air...faster air. Volume is not increased... but velocity is increased. The restriction, as you mentioned, is not the size of the snorkel, it's the shape of the snorkel. Volume remains the same. (If the inside diameter of snorkel is same as hole in which snorkel is inserted...or close in size.)

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Old 10-09-2011, 10:06 PM   #55361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Ok. I just bought a new 2011 DR650 this weekend. While checking out different postings on this much exhaused subject, I have a theory...like everyone else. At the risk of beating a dead horse here's my take on the subject.

Makes sense, huh?

What do you think?

However, I do think the shape of the snorkel is helpful in keeping debris/water out of the airbox.
I see you've smelt the coffee brewing...

DR650 + cut air box + TM40 carb + K&N + New Exhaust + $800 = Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow.... Faster in/Faster out, more power to ya....
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:20 PM   #55362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
I see you've smelt the coffee brewing...

DR650 + cut air box + TM40 carb + K&N + New Exhaust + $800 = Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow.... Faster in/Faster out, more power to ya....

That is the way it works!
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:20 PM   #55363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Nope. Not more air...faster air. Volume is not increased... but velocity is increased. The restriction, as you mentioned, is not the size of the snorkel, it's the shape of the snorkel. Volume remains the same. (If the inside diameter of snorkel is same as hole in which snorkel is inserted...or close in size.)
nope, not faster air - MORE air. even if the opening is the same size, the snorkel is still a restriction, letting less air in. prolly is putting the airbox into a slightly negative pressure situation. less air is being pulled in w/the snorkel. cut open the air box, and you will let even more air in.

actually, w/the snorkel, the air in that situation is likely moving faster - yust not as much of it. making air travel further, which the snorkel does, makes it move faster. yust like making air travel faster over the longer dimension of the top of an airplane wing vs the shorter distance it travels under the wing, which provides the lift. but in the case of an airplane wing, it IS faster air, not more air, cuz there's no restriction - the wing is out in the open.

because the snorkel puts bends in the path of the air, the air is traveling faster than w/o it. unfortunately, it's also restricting the quantity of air. which is why removing it, and cutting a hole in the airbox means you will likely have to re-jet so you won't run too lean - MORE AIR not "faster air".

actually, there will be faster air going thru the carb itself, if there's more air, cuz the carb itself is a specific size. when it moves more air, it has to also be faster.

doug s.

doug s. screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 10:24 PM Reason: clarification
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:44 PM   #55364
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
...As long as you don't mind replacing the parts a bit more often.

See:
Slide guide, used
Slide guide, new
Slides, new and used
Emulsion tubes, new and used
Jet needles, new and used

Scroll down for description and links. Click image for high-res view.

Consider that there is an intake pulse every 720 degrees, which is what raises the slide. Between those pulses, the slide spring and gravity try to push the slide back down. In order for the slide to be allowed to be pushed back down, the vacuum above diaphragm has to bleed off through the slide lift holes. The larger the slide lift holes, the faster that vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the greater the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse. At the next pulse, the slide has to be pulled back up by the distance it fell (more if there is acceleration, less if there is deceleration). Conversely, the smaller the lift holes, the slower the vacuum can bleed off, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide can be pushed down before the next pulse, and therefore the smaller the distance the slide has to be pulled back up at the next pulse.

My opinion is that the perceived benefits of slide drilling may be at least somewhat related to resultant changes in fuel metering rather than to the speed at which the slide is allowed to move, in which case one should instead concentrate on achieving the correct float height, pilot jet, needle profile and clip position. Then most if not all of the benefits could be achieved without additional wear on a carburetor that is already chronically wear prone.

Regards,

Derek
Excellent stuff Derek. I hope anyone who ever wants to have a clue about what really is going on in a carb is paying attention. It's complicated ... and
every change affects something else ... but your explanations and clear and precise.

PLUS ONE on the wear prone reference regards the BST40. I'm on my 2nd carb due to slide and jet needle wear ... which was causing a stumble off idle. Instead of pulling the old carb apart & buying very expensive stock parts ... I simply bought a nice near new used DR650 Carb for $60. Installed my jetting and DJ needle into it ... All good. The first carb went 30,000 miles before showing wear and affecting running very slightly.
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:13 PM   #55365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
nope, not faster air - MORE air. even if the opening is the same size, the snorkel is still a restriction, letting less air in. prolly is putting the airbox into a slightly negative pressure situation. less air is being pulled in w/the snorkel. cut open the air box, and you will let even more air in.

actually, w/the snorkel, the air in that situation is likely moving faster - yust not as much of it. making air travel further, which the snorkel does, makes it move faster. yust like making air travel faster over the longer dimension of the top of an airplane wing vs the shorter distance it travels under the wing, which provides the lift. but in the case of an airplane wing, it IS faster air, not more air, cuz there's no restriction - the wing is out in the open.

because the snorkel puts bends in the path of the air, the air is traveling faster than w/o it. unfortunately, it's also restricting the quantity of air. which is why removing it, and cutting a hole in the airbox means you will likely have to re-jet so you won't run too lean - MORE AIR not "faster air".

doug s.
The Size of the snorkel determines its volume...not its shape! For instance: A 1"x12" pipe bent in an "S" shape will have the exact same volume as a 1"x12" pipe that is straight. In other words, 12" is 12"...doesn't matter what shape it is. Which weighs more? A ton of feathers or a ton of rocks? See what I mean? Even if you took the airbox off completely and ran the engine, the lean/rich mixture wouldn't change. It would get the air in and out easier because of less restriction. That's why people use K&N filters and free flowing mufflers. Easier in and out.

"because the snorkel puts bends in the path of the air, the air is traveling faster than w/o it. unfortunately, it's also restricting the quantity of air."

How can it restrict the volume of air when the snorkel diameter is the same as the size of hole left after removing it? (pretty close in size, anyway.) I didn't mention anything about cutting another hole in the airbox.

I think by merely removing the snorkel it wouldn't have any significant change in the air/fuel mixture ratio. The hole in the box is pretty close to the size of the snorkel. I agree that the snorkel will restrict the velocity of air.

That's why building codes only allow so many bends in pipes, ducts, etc..in a given length. Bends restrict velocity of flow...not volume.
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