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Old 10-11-2011, 10:38 PM   #55426
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
Why?
Leaded fuels can foul your plugs but not if the plug burns hot enough, otherwise lead will plug up or cause issue with the catalytic converters in cars, may as well affect the O2 sensors. Lead was/is used a lot to decrease knocking and provide a cushion for the valves, mainly just used in aviation today. For the DR, I've been anxious to try some Av gas 100LL, not pay for it of course, just old sump gas...
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:48 PM   #55427
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker Buzz View Post
Does anyone know of a good replacement for the stock turn signals? Front and rear? I took a spill and broke a rear turn signal. $68.00 at the dealer...

I'm hoping maybe there's a LED replacement that is also shorter and does't stick out as much as the stock lights.
Any local dealer should have a bunch of replacement/aftermarket options for like $20 bucks.
Also try ebay/cyclegear/motorstrano etc...
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:03 PM   #55428
ungeheuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Be careful with wide band O2 sensors. A brief overview of reasons:

1) There is no direct relationship between O2 content and AFR.
My wideband lambda sensor measures the ratio of fuel to air in the exhaust gasses passing over its little sniffer sufficiently well enough for me to finally have my TM40-equipped DR running far better than was ever able to achieve using the alternative "seat-of-the-pants" method. I admire those who can set these things up be intuition. By feel. I however needed a device to measure the changes I was making and found the AFR gauge a most valuable tool, ending months of frustration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
6) an O2 sensor's response time is not zero.
True. Its way more responsive than my ignorant arseDyno though.
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
8) changes in pressure affect O2 sensor accuracy.
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
9) changes in temperature affect O2 sensor accuracy.
Still more accurate than my arseDyno.

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Old 10-11-2011, 11:12 PM   #55429
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God help us if the DR ever advances technologically. Peoples heads will explode
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:09 AM   #55430
Magnum Noel
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Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
God help us if the DR ever advances technologically. Peoples heads will explode
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:42 AM   #55431
ungeheuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
ungeheuer- Good stuff! But I still don't see what you found out? What % diffrences were you seeing in what everyone has been talking about (snorkle, cover off, holes in air box, diffrent exhaust) ?
All I found was how to set up my TM40 so that it delivers nice power throughout and yet consumes fuel at an acceptable rate. I didnt do the "what does it read when I do this.... and how much leaner is it when I remove that...." It'll be interesting to see what you come up with .

I just wanted to sort out my fuelling issues (I'd installed my TM40 and loved the power but hated the horrendous fuel consumption and resulting lack of range). All good now .

My AFR targets:
Aimed for a rich idle @ around 12.5:1 (delivering between 12.2 and 12.8)
From 1/8th throttle to 3/4 aimed for 13.2:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.9)
WOT aimed for 12.8:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.5). Could run a little richer @ WOT I reckon.

I'll soon be removing the AFR gauge and wideband O2 sensor. It's work is complete.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:33 AM   #55432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Where exactly is the evidence of contact?

The crack... shit happens... get your local welding guy to touch it up and move on.
yeah, dont allow the suspension to compress more than a couple inches.
ride it on level smooth ground, oh hell asphalt only. movin on huh?
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:06 AM   #55433
kezzajohnson
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midpipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
If you look at the clearance between the swingarm and the Hindle supplied Muffler to mid pipe section, you can see it only has 2.25 inches before it starts to bottom out.

Saggy suspension - well this has an eibach HD spring on the back that wound down pretty tight, so she shes nothing like stock for sagginess.

The cool thing about how Hindle designed this, is not only will it bottom out and hit your swingarm but, the rear brake line is routed on top of the swingarm, this means that your brake line gets squashed and burnt thus saving contact with the arm, nice work R&D guys.


I'd heard some stories about the various midpipes for the GSXR muffler. Not only outrageous prices but difficulty in getting in Australia meant that I made up my own midpipe. All stainless steel. Goes great, sounds great, no banging or hitting on anything. Lucky I guess, that I got it right. The bit with the mounting is cut straight off the OEM muffler. (I figured I wouldn't be needing it again) and then joined to some scrap mandrel bent stainless steel tubing (it took few goes to get the angles right) and then had it all welded up to a stainless steel laser cut flange.



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Old 10-12-2011, 10:13 AM   #55434
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Still more accurate than my arseDyno.

Good stuff!


I own an engine shop with a dyno (Depac system with Stuska Brake) and find the A/F guage to be quite spot on. While every engine is a little different in what exact a/f it wants you can see little changes immediately. While the A/F guage on my dyno is better quality (should be for $2500!) then the one I am using on my bike (an Innovate LM1) it will be close enough.

The numbers you gave look about what I would expect from an air cooled low compression motor. My only question is why the rich idle? I haven't done a motor like the DR so is it required? On most the engines I do (V8s) I find that 13.8-14.0 on the idle makes the idle smooth with proper exhaust temps. Did it want to die off when you leaned the idle down?

Someone asked earlier why not to run leaded gas...because you don't need it. Leaded gas is high octane which has less energy (BTU) then regular gas. Also, if you ever pulled apart an engine that runs leaded regularly (like a dirt track motor) you would see that lead deposits coat EVERYTHING! It is a pain in the ass to get off too!. When those lead deposits start building up on your valves, piston top, and exhaust ports you will start to decrease the efficency of the motor. Run unleaded- your bike will run better for longer.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:40 AM   #55435
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
My rant is complete and my FMF will be here any day.....
Wash the mud off that Hindle, make it pretty again. Have a muffler shop re-bend your mid pipe to fit. Might save a few bucks and keep it away from the shock and the brake line.
If it's new-ish .... box it up and send it back to Hindle. Call credit card company and cancel the transaction. Reason? Did Not Fit. This is your right.

The FMF may not be much better. Have you ever owned one? Quality control at FMF seems to be slipping over the last few years. Many pipes now have rivets coming out way too early and some fit/finish problems too. When you pack a FMF they recommend a re-pack every 10 or 15 hours IIRC with solid Gold FMF packing material that costs $25 a package. (2 re-packs)

The FMF Q4 is not too loud (like the Q2 is) and generally fits the DR650 well. But my Q2 was poorly made and literally came apart in 10,000 miles. I sold it cheap and put the stock DR650 muffler back on. I now have a GSXR muffler and will soon buy the mid pipe from Jesse and install that.

The good news about the heavy stock muffler is that it actually flows air pretty well for a factory pipe. Yes, it's very heavy, but it's quality Stainless,
a 3 chamber design and will last forever. It's federal forest legal as well.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:59 AM   #55436
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Did it want to die off when you leaned the idle down?
If the DR650 idle is leaned down using the Fuel/Air screw, it does get a bit bumpy as you turn screw IN and will eventually stall.

I run my F/A screw pretty lean. I first set idle speed fairly LOW ... like 800 or 900 rpm. Engine should be HOT. Then screw IN the fuel/air screw. On my bike the idle starts getting bumpy at about 1/2 turn out from fully closed. I back it out just slightly, retaining some lumpiness and not going out (rich) enough to smooth it out. I then re-set idle speed up to about 1200 rpm. (bike starts better at 1200 rpm than at 1000 rpm ... no throttle)

Running the Fuel/Air screw lean seems to help MPG. The theory is that the fuel/air screw not only affects idle mixture but effects fuel metering on the overrun. (when you shut off throttle for a corner and are downshifting and approaching corners with no throttle (de-cel) .

If the fuel/air screw is set rich ... during de-cel you will be wasting fuel. On my bike this represents about 3 to 4 MPG. I've proven this through running through several tanks of fuel at both rich and lean settings. If Fuel/Air screw is set for max smooth idle compared to slightly lumpy lean idle (but never stalling).... then MPG improves and bike runs great.

If I were idling in traffic all time ... in very hot weather ... I would just reach down and richen the fuel/air screw a bit ... like a half turn OUT (rich). But for most riding I keep it lean to maintain good MPG ... which is around 47 to 50 MPG.
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:47 AM   #55437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Yeah... I was being a bit flippant.... sorry. All I found was how to set up my TM40 so that it delivers nice power throughout and yet consumes fuel at an acceptable rate. I didnt do the "what does it read when I do this.... and how much leaner is it when I remove that...." It'll be interesting to see what you come up with .

I just wanted to sort out my fuelling issues (I'd installed my TM40 and loved the power but hated the horrendous fuel consumption and resulting lack of range). All good now .

My AFR targets:
Aimed for a rich idle @ around 12.5:1 (delivering between 12.2 and 12.8)
From 1/8th throttle to 3/4 aimed for 13.2:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.9)
WOT aimed for 12.8:1 (delivering between 13.0 and 13.5). Could run a little richer @ WOT I reckon.

I'll soon be removing the AFR gauge and wideband O2 sensor. It's work is complete.

Not so long ago... I was saying that too .
Does it make any difference in the exhaust where the o2 sensor goes. IE: how close to the head ? or can it be right back near the muffler
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:09 PM   #55438
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
I'd heard some stories about the various midpipes for the GSXR muffler. Not only outrageous prices but difficulty in getting in Australia meant that I made up my own midpipe. All stainless steel. Goes great, sounds great, no banging or hitting on anything. Lucky I guess, that I got it right. The bit with the mounting is cut straight off the OEM muffler. (I figured I wouldn't be needing it again) and then joined to some scrap mandrel bent stainless steel tubing (it took few goes to get the angles right) and then had it all welded up to a stainless steel laser cut flange.



That is some beautiful work! Man! let me know if you ever go into fabrication production of Mid pipes for the DR!
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:15 PM   #55439
jungleplant
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shipping costs

it cost about 40 bucks to ship a rack USPS thats a 3 lbs box 12X12X7
ups is 160
companies just cant do it
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:23 PM   #55440
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
where exactly is the evidence of contact?

The crack... Shit happens... Get your local welding guy to touch it up and move on.
It hits the clip holding the brake line and melts it.
My Hindle mid pipe was hitting even with the bottom heated and bashed...


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