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Old 10-10-2011, 08:47 PM   #55426
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
If you read mx_robs TT thread, that's what he did.

And more...
TT thread? Thumper Talk? I haven't been on there...if you have a link I would appreciate it. I would like to see what he found. Thanks
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:22 PM   #55427
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestrunas View Post
Hey inmates how goes it! Got a quick question - two dr650s on craigslist:

2007 7,500 miles $3,400 http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/2610040677.html
2006 2,000 miles $3,500 http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2604566319.html

which would you recommend and why?

Thanks for the ad-vice!
Chris
Which one has sat for longer periods of time ('Not necessarily the lowest-mileage one, as '07 owner could have done few long trips and parked it for long periods, while the '06 owner could have commuted 15 miles once a week.)?

Which is in better running/riding condition?
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:55 PM   #55428
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestrunas View Post
Hey inmates how goes it! Got a quick question - two dr650s on craigslist:

2007 7,500 miles $3,400 http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/2610040677.html
2006 2,000 miles $3,500 http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2604566319.html

which would you recommend and why?

Thanks for the ad-vice!
Chris
show the seller of the one w/7.5k miles on it the ad for the other one, and offer him $2500...

doug s,
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:11 PM   #55429
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
TT thread? Thumper Talk? I haven't been on there...if you have a link I would appreciate it. I would like to see what he found. Thanks
Here's the site:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/

Here's the needle thread:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...615&highlight=
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:30 PM   #55430
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Rumlover- I don't think I will be cutting holes in the airbox, but I will take the side cover off to see just for info. I don't mind the work...just have to find time to do it. Everyone elses engines seem to come before mine!
Work? It's four screws man, takes less than a minute.

Pulling the side cover can create a few problems ... and mostly the DR will run like crap unless you adjust jetting and needle to suit the massive increase in air flow. Stock jetting/stock needle won't work well with side cover off unless you're up over about 8000 ft. or higher.

But even if you do that ... you still will have other problems with side cover off. At speed, side drafts and negative pressure changes affect running and can cause surging and weird stumbles. This does not seem to happen after cutting open the top of the air box. The seat protects it, it seems.

The place to cut the Air box is the top ... using the Jesse method. He provides a template on his website. Follow it, it works. Leave the side cover on. Also, with the side cover off ... you lower the water ingress point a few inches so if you run without it ... pay attention in deep water.

I recommend the Dyno Jet kit to go with the cut air box top. The DJ needle is the key,really helps the DR650 run well. A 150 or 155 DJ main jet, stock pilot, 3rd or 4th clip, cut air box top with Twin-Air filter, extended fuel/air screw 1/2 to 1 turn out. 48 MPG, great power and smooth running everywhere.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:33 AM   #55431
ADV8
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Any tips on removing the drum sprocket hub bearing? Does it come out via the outer side (sprocket side) or the inner side?

Also once it's out any tip on reinstall of new cush hub bearing?
It doesn't hurt to warm the carrier before fitting a new bearing.
The same when removing the old one,if the hub is warmed the bearing can be driven out on the inner race,driving square to avoid any chance of cocking the bearing in the bore of the carrier.
The stock bearing has a single seal so going to a fully sealed 2RS bearing is worthwhile.
I run different clearance bearings from stock so the numbers in the pictures are at your own risk.
Replacement bearings are easily purchased off the stock bearing numbers with the option of fully sealed (advisable)

I post this often but is ignored for the most part.
When you have installed a new bearing,take the time to refit the wheel and carrier with the cush drive rubbers removed.
Tighten the wheel as normal and try and rock the sprocket inline with the axle.
This will indicate how much clearance is at the inner spigot that supports the inner side of the carrier.
As posted many times,excess clearance there puts a axial load on the ball bearing.
That in my opinion (only) is what causes any bearing problems along with the stock single seal should grit or water get to the bearing race.

All of the bearings,sprocket carrier and wheel bearings are single seal.
Suzuki saving money on bulk buying no doubt.


















Not to mention the lack of grease from the factory including the needle rollers in the suspension and rear brake pedal pivot.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:04 AM   #55432
epix1718
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Location: Michigan/Indiana border
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ADV8 - Thanks very much!! Great pics and info.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:58 AM   #55433
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Work? It's four screws man, takes less than a minute.



I recommend the Dyno Jet kit to go with the cut air box top. The DJ needle is the key,really helps the DR650 run well. A 150 or 155 DJ main jet, stock pilot, 3rd or 4th clip, cut air box top with Twin-Air filter, extended fuel/air screw 1/2 to 1 turn out. 48 MPG, great power and smooth running everywhere.



Right on the money.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:19 AM   #55434
Dyno
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bottom of Lake Huron
Oddometer: 1,383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Funny, everyone has a theory but I haven't seen one person actually put an air/fuel meter on the bike and try diffrent things. Soooo.....


On the GSXR pipe, they fit under the plastic sidecover nicely:

Photobucket


The most obvious thing I've learned from the gauge is that Canadian gas runs richer than American gas.

One size leaner on the Needle jet will let you run rich down low, lean out to an acceptable cruise/mileage setting, then fatten back up if you add any throttle.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:35 AM   #55435
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 7,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trbig67 View Post
Some of you may have read the thread I posted on riding the DR up in the Colorado Mountains. Around here in Oklahoma, I'm lucky to get 40mpg. On the ride to OKC to load the bike in the trailer for the trip, I was at highway speeds at 70-80 and got mid 30's on the mpg. Up in the mountains, I get a lot better mileage, when it should have gotten worse?? On a 107 mile stretch where we were in a hurry to get from Silverton to Pagosa Springs, (107 miles) we were going wide open a lot of the time and even got it up between 95-100 on the speedo (I know of the questionable accuracy..) but was usually in the 75 mph range. I got 54 mpg on that ride back! WTF?? Should have been running richer and less mpg at that altitude?
I could be wrong here, but I know many areas of the country have differing amounts of ethanol blended into the gas. I think I've heard that Colorado doesn't have any ethanol. This would account for better mileage in CO. Someone chime in here as to the facts. In CT we have the most ethanol allowed by law in our crappy gas.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:52 AM   #55436
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 10,998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I could be wrong here, but I know many areas of the country have differing amounts of ethanol blended into the gas. I think I've heard that Colorado doesn't have any ethanol. This would account for better mileage in CO. Someone chime in here as to the facts. In CT we have the most ethanol allowed by law in our crappy gas.
Last time I rode through Oregon on the way to Alaska my R1150R got 5 mpg better on their gas then it did on the evil CA mix,at the time we were still swilling MTBE though. I wonder if Oregon has bought into the ethanol hoax?
My bikes really seem ok on the 10% ethanol in CA currently,I do try not to let em sit too long though.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:09 AM   #55437
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I think I've heard that Colorado doesn't have any ethanol. This would account for better mileage in CO.
Not true about ethanol, but each grade of gas here has a lower octane rating than lower elevations because of the lower air density (lowers your effective compression ratio so you do not need as much detonation protection).

I have often heard that the lower air density up here decreases wind resistance at speed so the engine doesn't have to work as hard to maintain the same speed. Also, since your effective compression ratio is less up here so your engine is making less horsepower and hence using less gas. I cannot prove either one and am only relaying what I have heard on the internet.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:12 AM   #55438
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The objective being that the inner face of the front and rear sprockets are in the same plane. When the rear is bolted to the hub, and the 520 sprockets being thinner, the inner face of the front has to stay in line, hence the flange, the thickness of which should be the difference between a 525 and 520 chain width @ 1/16".

Steve
Due to the thickness of the flange, putting the front sprocket on backwards will move the inner face a lot more than 1/16" closer to the engine case...
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:19 AM   #55439
lamotovita
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Location: WA/AZ, USA
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[QUOTE=ADV8;.
Tighten the wheel as normal and try and rock the sprocket inline with the axle.
This will indicate how much clearance is at the inner spigot that supports the inner side of the carrier.
As posted many times,excess clearance there puts a axial load on the ball bearing.
That in my opinion (only) is what causes any bearing problems along with the stock single seal should grit or water get to the bearing race.[/QUOTE]

What have you done to solve this problem?
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:47 AM   #55440
vintagespeed
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 1,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Well, the 3rd gear set got new part numbers but there is no evidence that the parts were actually updated or why the parts numbers changed. There have been at least a couple 3rd gear incidents with later models.
2nd gear, 3rd gear, what's the difference........it all looks the same when it's laying in the bottom of your oil sump!
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