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Old 10-11-2011, 03:42 PM   #55426
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That Yosh pipe is one of the most offensive pipes made. I'm not a fan.
You may be pissing in the wind trying to improvise a baffle. At best you'll knock it down a few db ... but lose any flow benefit the pipe may provide.
Repacking won't do much at all to reduce db level. Changes the pitch, not so much the amplitude.

I'd throw it in the trash and start over. Track down a nice GSXR pipe ... it's Titanium, OEM Suzuki, it's light, flows very well and sounds pretty nice ... not too loud. It will last forever ... just my .02 .

I got the pipe from another inmate-he traded me for my stock one so I'm not out any $$ to play with it. I did look for a GSXR pipe for a while because that is what I really wanted...but they are getting hard to find and those that do have them are asking a lot for them (I know-I'm cheap! )

I will play with it...if it pisses me off too much I will sell it to some young buck that likes the noise!
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:44 PM   #55427
southerndreamer
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Zeta bar protectors

[QUOTE=ride4321;17053304]Got these in the mail yesterday but it looked too involved for my tired ass to tackle then so I tried the install tonight. It went very smooth and I'm mechanically challenged but in all honesty I think the PO had probably done all the grunt work and I didn't have to cut the grips or the throttle tube, it was already done. Otherwise they fit right on, only had to cut one of my balls off, the clutch lever was just a bit too long. Easy enough cutting those off and I probably should have cut off the brake lever while I was tuned in, it just fit. Note to yellow DR owners, the Moose yellow doesn't match the DR yellow, it's a bit more orangish but I put them on anyhow figuring they'll fade next summer, if not who gives a shit, it's a DR and it's usually pretty dirty anyhow. I'd have gone with the white now that I see them though.

Just about to fit these but not sure about the removal of the plug in the end of the throttle bar? it's very tight - advice please.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:54 PM   #55428
ride4321
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Location: Binghamton, NY
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[QUOTE=southerndreamer;17053387]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Got these in the mail yesterday but it looked too involved for my tired ass to tackle then so I tried the install tonight. It went very smooth and I'm mechanically challenged but in all honesty I think the PO had probably done all the grunt work and I didn't have to cut the grips or the throttle tube, it was already done. Otherwise they fit right on, only had to cut one of my balls off, the clutch lever was just a bit too long. Easy enough cutting those off and I probably should have cut off the brake lever while I was tuned in, it just fit. Note to yellow DR owners, the Moose yellow doesn't match the DR yellow, it's a bit more orangish but I put them on anyhow figuring they'll fade next summer, if not who gives a shit, it's a DR and it's usually pretty dirty anyhow. I'd have gone with the white now that I see them though.

Just about to fit these but not sure about the removal of the plug in the end of the throttle bar? it's very tight - advice please.
When I bought this bike that was removed, I actually put bar ends on when I bought it to cover the open ends and to help with vibes. According to instructions you cut the end of the grip then cut the throttle tube. I've read other replies that say just use a rubber or wood mallet and lightly pound the end of the grip, the bar will cut the grip nicely that way. Then you can either cut the tube or some say just move it in a bit. I didn't have to do either as it had already been done. There isn't much room to move it in but I think there's probably enough and if that's the case all you have to do is cut the end of the grip. The clutch side was easy but I did have to cut that ball off the lever. The instructions suck, I just googled it and got better info but I hat instructions, that's why I live alone
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:55 PM   #55429
Stringer99
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Question

Hey guys, took my 2003 DR650 offroad for the first time today. Every time I ran over something soft, the front tire wants to collapse and take the bike with it. It has the stock trailwings. The rear tire is a brand new trailwing, the front is about half or more worn. Is the front tire the culprit? Is this why I have heard them referred to as deathwings? If so, can I use a non-matching front tire? Which one? I cannot afford both tires right now and the rear is new and seems to provide decent traction. Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:01 PM   #55430
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Hey guys, took my 2003 DR650 offroad for the first time today. Every time I ran over something soft, the front tire wants to collapse and take the bike with it. It has the stock trailwings. The rear tire is a brand new trailwing, the front is about half or more worn. Is the front tire the culprit? Is this why I have heard them referred to as deathwings? If so, can I use a non-matching front tire? Which one? I cannot afford both tires right now and the rear is new and seems to provide decent traction. Thanks!
Try a KENDA 270 front.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:11 PM   #55431
The Rizz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Try a KENDA 270 front.
Agreed. This tire feels weird when pushed hard on the street, but I was really impressed with how it handled offroad single track today.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:18 PM   #55432
bigredroosta
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Location: Western Vic
Oddometer: 747
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRinda505 View Post
I have a problem with electric start not always working, I'm suspecting the neutral start switch.
Here are the details.
I have bypassed and removed the kickstand safety switch and the clutch safety switch.
When the starter doesn't crank...
I turn on the key, and all electronics (lights on...) work.
The starter does not turn over the engine, no clicks or dimming of the headlight.
I can pull the plastic cover on the starter relay, and jumper the high current relay contacts to crank the engine, but it seems like no ignition spark.
After a couple of times doing this, the starter switch will start to work, and the bike fires right up.
It will continue to work normal for a few days, then reverts to the no crank condition, and I can then repeat the process.
I have a new starter relay here, but have not swapped it yet.
My suspicion is something loose inside the cover on the neutral switch?
Do these symptoms makes sense for this?
I know I'm being trouble shooting lazy here, but I'm hoping to use this wealth of experience to solve my problem.
Thanks for the suggestions.
.
Could easily be your battery terminals.. check if they are clean and tight.
Or the Kill switch on the handlebads...
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:49 PM   #55433
doug s.
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i, too, gave up after a few months of looking for the right gsxr pipe - when i found a tsukigi upgrade can for $100 shipped, off a gsxr blog site. they're still awailable, tho i haven't seen 'em that cheap, but i think they're worth it - nice cans, and bolt up to the kientech hi-flow mid pipe perfectly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350492363597

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200539491144


there's others on ebay, but asking even more.

pics i poster prewiously:


http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php...=view;id=66100

info i posted prewiously:
everything was plug-n-play. but, i must say, it took a while to get everything installed w/o rubbing on the frame &/or shock spring - that mid-pipe & hedder are fat! note the bolt centered in this pic; it's what attaches the mid-pipe to the frame:

i had to trim the fat rubber grommet inside the frame there, and then use a fat fender-washer underneath the bolt, so as to pull the midpipe closer to the frame so it would clear the shock spring. (anyone else have this problem, when installing the kientech midpipe?) clearance between the midpipe and the frame is ~1/16"; there's ~1/4" clear between the midpipe and the shock spring...

the pipe is 23" from end to end - where mid pipe is attached, to the furthest end of the exhaust tip. (the can itself is ~19.25".) 4.25" diameter. inside is a metal screen, (16ga?), perforated w/little round holes, full-length, same diameter as the exhaust tip - 2.375". (actually, mebbe a fraction bigger, as the tip measurement was at the end, and as it's angled, the diameter at the can may be a tad larger.) there must be some sorta packing behind it, but ya can't see it. the seller told me he's never heard of folks having to re-pack these, and that's w/most folks using 'em on gsxr1000's.

the bike sounds great! and not at all too loud. can't really compare to stock, tho - i only rode it stock ~70 miles - from the seller's house home, and then to the dealer. and, that was over a year ago, as after i took it in, i got sent overseas unexpectedly, and ended up staying there for almost a year.

also, i have a buell s2 w/race pipe/can, and a wintage duc darmah w/conti cans; those bikes really sound sweet.

doug s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I got the pipe from another inmate-he traded me for my stock one so I'm not out any $$ to play with it. I did look for a GSXR pipe for a while because that is what I really wanted...but they are getting hard to find and those that do have them are asking a lot for them (I know-I'm cheap! )

I will play with it...if it pisses me off too much I will sell it to some young buck that likes the noise!
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:16 PM   #55434
drsmiley
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Location: Atlanta, Ga.
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If anyone is interested there is a GSXR exhaust for the DR650 in the flea market right now in the parts dept. I have one just thought I would let someone else know.
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:40 PM   #55435
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Last time I was in Colorado, ('93) they were still selling leaded regular in the higher elevations. (Fairplay) That's the good stuff.
Umm...you REALLY don't want to run leaded gas in an engine not designed for it.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:20 PM   #55436
SprintST
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Location: Ottawa Ontario mailing address
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you remove the hose from the hose barb, the edge of the filter is just visible. You should be able to grab it and pull it out of the barb.

Regards,

Derek
Haven't done anything other than dicking around with the air/fuel screw and idle level. Thanks though. I will get to that damn little filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Yeh , tricky little swine to get out !!! took mine out and found it half full of shite !!!! Left it out and fitted an in line filter 3 and you can SEE IT.
Phil
Wouldn't be at all surprised to see mine full of it too Phil. Maybe get a chance tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Sounds like the choke is stuck on to me.
That I did check and the choke is operating as it should.
===========

Just came down out of the mountains today from Denver to Grand Junction. Brutal ride over Vail Pass (10,650) with crappy carb, high winds, snow, rain, cold. Tell me again how much fun riding is ... Please. Bike is running a bit better at these lower altitudes but not the way it should.

Yesterday I switched up rides with another inmate who lives in Denver. His assessment was that my jetting and needle need to be dealt with. His DR had the air box cut, 46 rear sprocket and the correct needle and jets. Man, what a different bike. Those mods I'll be doing when I land in California. I wanted to get mine to sea level before starting to play around with things I know nothing about. Can't afford (time-wise) to screw anything up 'cause I've got miles to cover.

Thanks for all the input. The knowledge base on ADV is incredible. Oh, I've been reading posts about ethanol and mpg in Colorado. I've seen lots of E-gas and my mileage sucks as I may have mentioned a hundred times before.

Tomorrow's another day.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:21 PM   #55437
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Hey guys, took my 2003 DR650 offroad for the first time today. Every time I ran over something soft, the front tire wants to collapse and take the bike with it. It has the stock trailwings. The rear tire is a brand new trailwing, the front is about half or more worn. Is the front tire the culprit? Is this why I have heard them referred to as deathwings? If so, can I use a non-matching front tire? Which one? I cannot afford both tires right now and the rear is new and seems to provide decent traction. Thanks!
Have you ever ridden dirt bikes? Or any bike off road before? I assume you're riding in that famous Florida sugar sand? That stuff is tough on a heavy bike. Sounds like you need a few lessons on off road riding technique ?

The Trail Wings are no good in deep sand or mud ... but good on most all dirt roads, light gravel and on the street, even in rain. "Death Wing" is the name inexperienced amateurs give these tires. It's BS. They are not dirt bike knobbies but limited dual sport tires. Expecting Moto Cross type performance from them is unrealistic.

Next time you go out there, lower front tire pressure to 14 psi and rear to 15 psi. This should help slightly ... especially in normal dirt as apposed to sand. But the Trail Wings will never be good tires for deep sand like in Fla. but lower pressure may help a bit.

Riding deep sand requires good riding technique and practice .... is best done with knobbies front and rear. Conti TKC80's are very popular among several other brands out there.

If you want to only ride in Sand and off road, get a nice, used 250cc two stroke dirt bike. Great for sand riding and great to learn off road riding on.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:27 PM   #55438
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Rizz View Post
Agreed. This tire feels weird when pushed hard on the street, but I was really impressed with how it handled offroad single track today.
Maybe check the air pressure.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:41 PM   #55439
Biker Buzz
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oops!

Does anyone know of a good replacement for the stock turn signals? Front and rear? I took a spill and broke a rear turn signal. $68.00 at the dealer...

I'm hoping maybe there's a LED replacement that is also shorter and does't stick out as much as the stock lights.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:00 PM   #55440
tobster9
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Location: Pitt Meadows, British Columbia,
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Thumbs down Hindle - Cheap and shitty

Hi people,

If anyones considering a new pipe, please consider carfeully before you buy a Hindle supposed Off Road one for your DR heres why.

I bought mine a year ago, cos it was $50 cheaper than an FMF, bad move. Have a look at the pic below for a sec....
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