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Old 10-23-2011, 12:06 PM   #55936
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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How long are your rides? Short hops don't allow the engine to get up to operating temps and moisture will condense inside the engine, causing chocolate oil. I rode 170 miles Friday, and the oil temp was under 200* most of the time. Moisture won't burn off until 212*, (think steam). I have an aftermarket oil temp gauge, sender in the front of the engine case. An infrared thermometer will work for oil temp.

Check the oil window frequently, as soon as the chocolate appears, take a long ride. This will be when there is the least moisture in the oil and it will burn off quickly. If you wait too long after the milky appearance, there may be enough moisture in the oil to cause damage.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 10-23-2011 at 12:12 PM
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:19 PM   #55937
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
How long are your rides? Short hops don't allow the engine to get up to operating temps and moisture will condense inside the engine, causing chocolate oil. I rode 170 miles Friday, and the oil temp was under 200* most of the time. Moisture won't burn off until 212*, (think steam). I have an aftermarket oil temp gauge, sender in the front of the engine case. An infrared thermometer will work for oil temp.

Check the oil window frequently, as soon as the chocolate appears, take a long ride. This will be when there is the least moisture in the oil and it will burn off quickly. If you wait too long after the milky appearance, there may be enough moisture in the oil to cause damage.
rides have been 100 miles on interstate so i can only imagine it got hot enough to burn off.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:56 PM   #55938
Zapp22
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Location: Tejas Hill Country
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I modded both my 97 seat and my 02 and it worked out so well I don't even think about the seat anymore... that's the best testimony. Flatter, wider in the sitting portion, and 'float' attached.. the bolts pin the seat to the frame so that the frame vibration etc transmits harshly to the pan. remove the bolts and just tie those tabs with wire so the upward [fly-off] motion is constrained a tad, but otherwise it gets to take advantage of the rubber bumpers suzi thoughtfully added
I think I paid 65 for the job - i drew it out and got a boat upholsterer to do the cutting/whacking and very fine middle-firm foam. recovered with the stock cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
If I were buying a DR, I wouldn't worry about the seat, yet.

I have only had mine a couple months, so I need more seat-time before I even think about options. Longest day on it so far isn't epic, just 2 hours each way, same day, to spectate at an enduro. I can say it is better than my DR350 seat.

My '06 came with the gel seat mounted + the stock. I rode briefly with the gel, switched to the stock just for comparison, and have never bothered to put the gel back on. Not sure the gel isn't better, it may be, but frankly, the stock seat just doesn't bother me that much.

Anyway, just saying I wouldn't decide to spend $350 for a seat based on other people's opinions of the stocker.
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:49 PM   #55939
macrae85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
hey, glad you got the ebay thing down. but, your saying you stayed up half the night watching an auction made me think otherwise; it amazes me that there's still folks out there who actually try to manually snipe auctions, or proxy bid.

thanks for the honda fmx650 idea; i will have to check it out...

doug s.
Meant to say.....i was on eBay.co.uk......the British one,hence the time difference!
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:20 PM   #55940
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
Meant to say.....i was on eBay.co.uk......the British one,hence the time difference!
i understand that - i figured you were on ebay-uk if you were bidding on lime parts. i was yust thinking you were manually bidding, and that's why you were up late; if it were me, i'd have been sleeping, and simply checking the auction the next a.m, to see if i had won or not...

doug s.
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:01 PM   #55941
Harpua
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
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help pwease

hey ya'll

i've done searches but can't quite find out... i'm doing a home job mod to the choke cable and mine never worked to begin with.

when the choke is ON is the little brass piston BACKED OUT of its little cylinder? or is it the other way around?

one more thing while i got the bike torn apart...

the header weld everyone talks about, is it located INSIDE the pipe?

thanks a lot!
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:33 PM   #55942
Paddle007
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: S.E. Louisiana
Oddometer: 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
does anyone know where to buy stock carb mainjets individually? i have a 145 installed, but now the carb is modified, header weld grinded, modded airbox, and a new DG exhaust on the way. Does a 155 sound about right? where to buy individually? i already have the slide drilled and adjustable needle jet. thanks.
Jets R Us seems to have a decent selection. They offer OEM or aftermarket choices. They have been prompt with shipping.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:48 PM   #55943
alonzo
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Northwest Ozarks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
hey ya'll
...
the header weld everyone talks about, is it located INSIDE the pipe?

thanks a lot!
Yes.

-- alonzo
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:11 PM   #55944
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
When the choke is ON is the little brass piston BACKED OUT of its little cylinder? or is it the other way around?
The choke is not like a old school butterfly in the carb inlet tract.
On the BST and TM 40 it is more of a controlled leak.
It is as you say.
The brass plunger has a seal on the end which covers a fuel passage,when you pull the choke lever on the plunger uncovers the passage allowing fuel to flow to another passage that exits into the carburetor inlet tract creating a rich mixture.
When the choke lever is returned to the off position,the cable allows the plunger to move inward again via the small return spring,covering the passage.
One reason to make sure it is in good working order to avoid the plunger not seating properly and the resulting poor mileage.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:26 AM   #55945
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Alright. Educate me .

My Corbin seat fits my stock tank.
My stock DR seat fits my stock tank.
My stock DR seat fits an IMS tank.
How come my Corbin seat which fits my stock tank wont fit an IMS tank then?

I guess what I'm asking is whats the actual diff between the Corbin seatpan for stock and the Corbin seatpan for IMS?

And can I make Corbin-for-stock fit an IMS? I mean how different can they be?

Cheers .
IMS has seen fit in their wisdom to make the angle on the back of their tank different...

A bit like Clarke bringing out a tank for the TT350 Yammy that's exactly the same capacity as stock but 10 times more expensive.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:03 AM   #55946
Zapp22
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Location: Tejas Hill Country
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shameless plug

Gang the turnsignal relocator is selling well. would like to get enough of these out there to fund the "Type 2" which will be 4-bolt size with knockouts for switches and Accessory socket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110753607721#ht_1261wt_1185

despite whats in the ebay listing, we do have some units in Australia and Canada if you'd prefer to buy from those inmates, and I can arrange ship wherever and just pass through the incremental cost... the worst part is that I have to get a human at the USPS to stamp the customs forms, and I don't live close to any of them... Just another excuse to kick the tires and light the fires
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:07 AM   #55947
GsVs
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flex and NO flex

The stock seat pan has some flex to it ... the Corbin seat pan is hard as heck - has NO flex to it ..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Sooo then....how come the stock seat fits the IMS's different tank slope-angle then?
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:08 AM   #55948
ScottDill
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Location: Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ungeheuer View Post
Sooo then....how come the stock seat fits the IMS's different tank slope-angle then?
Corbin seat pan is very stiff. It won't just bend into place like the stock one.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:11 AM   #55949
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
hey ya'll


when the choke is ON is the little brass piston BACKED OUT of its little cylinder? or is it the other way around?
Check this : http://www.kientech.com/DR650HandChokeConv.htm


I was having trouble with my cable operated choke so I went with the hand choke. Same as every bike ever owned. You know it's closed cuz you push it shot.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:54 PM   #55950
joefromsf
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco
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Question Help with Cogent Shock Install

I'm finally getting around to reinstalling my upgraded rear shock after getting it back from Cogent and I am stumped. It's too late to call Rick tonight so thought I would check here for help before calling him in the morning.

Basically I can't get the shock's mounting holes to line up so that I can get the mounting bolts thru. It "seems" like the shock is 1/16-1/8" too long.

I can get the upper mounting bolt in OK. But I can't get the cushion lever, where the lower bolt goes, into a position where the holes line up with the shock's holes. I've got the cushion rods (dogbones) disconnected from the cushion lever so that the lever has maximum play. But in its lowest position (maximum distance between shock mounting points on the bike), the lever's mounting holes are above those of the shock.

What am I missing here? I consider myself a pretty good bike wrencher.

If somebody has a stock, Cogent or any other DR shock that is set up for standard ride height and not currently mounted on your bike, can I get you to measure the distance between mounting holes on the shock (center to center). My distance is 18-3/16" or about 462mm.

Thanks.
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