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Old 11-07-2011, 07:29 AM   #56491
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
When I installed my dj kit from keintech along with the gsxr muffler mod and airbox cut, I had a just off idle bog if I whacked the throttle quickly. I cured it by dropping the needle from the 4th slot from the top (the recommended slot) to the 3rd slot from the top. Off idle bog is gone and bike runs WAY better than stock.

Chris in Topeka
this has been discussed before.

first it's the nature of a CV carb and it will never been totally responsive like a pumper carb. don't whack it.

second the pilot circuit is often too rich. everyone will say turn out the pilot screw 2 turns but if you turn it out only 1 (which is counter intuitive, and you think then wtf did i buy this pilot screw) the bog goes away.

someone else figured this out and it worked for me.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:32 AM   #56492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
Try replacing the pilot jet.
often, no need to do that just disassy the carb and clean it with pinesol.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
if nothing else remove the pilot jet (with small flat head screw driver) and gently poke the clogged jet with a needle tip to break the crudded up bad gas.

my bike sat over a partial winter (i thought i'd get back out on another desert tour so i didn't drain the carb) with gas and stabil and still clogged the pilot jet so it's easy to do. i started by removing the pilot jet and poking it with a needle to open the hole, then did a pine sol soak. bike ran in top shape after.

the OP is about a get a lesson on how to remove the carb and get the float bowl screws off w/ an hand impact hammer and use new allen screws or he's going to take it to a shop for them to do it.
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eakins screwed with this post 11-07-2011 at 07:41 AM
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:04 AM   #56493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shasta650 View Post
Same thing,6000 miles Is this a common issue with this motor?? I'd like to not worry about it! thanks
I don't think it is common but this motor is not that hard to work on. Not long after replacing a very leaky base gasket on my 02 the bike would smoke until warmed up but had that burnt oil smell all the time. I replaced the valve seals and it still had the problem. I then replaced the piston and rings that solved the problem. I either did not install my rings correctly, 120 degrees out, or they migrated after the base gasket install. If you are in for the valve seals I would at least pull the cylinder to check wear and rings while in there. Might save a tear down later. The only special tool I needed was a valve spring compressor I bought at Rocky Mountain ATV.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:21 AM   #56494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
When I installed my dj kit from keintech along with the gsxr muffler mod and airbox cut, I had a just off idle bog if I whacked the throttle quickly. I cured it by dropping the needle from the 4th slot from the top (the recommended slot) to the 3rd slot from the top. Off idle bog is gone and bike runs WAY better than stock.

Chris in Topeka
Jesse often speculated, that an off idle / extended idling bog, was due to fuel pooling slightly in the intake tract and then flooding into the combustion chamber, when the throttle was opened.

And yes, one step leaner with the DJ needle (clip 3rd down from top) in conjunction with the routine Kientech mods (and Jesse's leaner 155/160 DJ suggestions), has worked well (perfectly ) for many of us that experienced an off idle bog, myself included.

996DL
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:27 AM   #56495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
$81/$83 here (these places affiliated); free shipping on orders over $99, which would mean you need to order both tires. (which you would need to do at the m/c superstore,as their free shipping is for orders >$89.):
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...&sizeAttr=1491

http://www.jakewilson.com/productDet...dFamilyId=4399

save $7 - yahoo!

doug s.

Well, according to Jake Wilson's shipping department, and other companies that ship to the "48 continental states"....
It is news to us in Alaska that we are not part of the North American continent!
When did that happen? Why weren't we taught that in school?

I wonder which of the bridges goes from Alaska Island to the mainland of Canada?

.
.
.
.

Yes, we know they mean "contiguous states".... we deal with it daily.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:43 AM   #56496
Rob.G
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Question Better Speedo Packages

Hey, what are some of the other speedo/instrument cluster options out there besides the TrailTech Vapor? I've gone through three speed sensors on my Vapor in a year, and the sensorts themselves only have a 90-day warranty (gee I wonder why). I'm about ready to ditch the thing and go with another solution. I know others have been posted here, but who knows where in 56,000 posts.

Thanks. :)

Rob

PS: Shameless plug: I have a Superbrace fork brace for the DR650 in the Flea Market right now.
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Rob.G screwed with this post 11-07-2011 at 08:52 AM
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:01 AM   #56497
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Need some quick advice from the collective. Had some compression issues (90 psi) and a paper base gasket leak so off camethe top end yesterday. Checked the end gap and saw this. My question is, is it typical/acceptable to just re-ring and keep the existing piston or do folks generally just go all new? I may go Ho comp piston etc.. but I AM on a tight budget so it may ahve to wait. The original piston measures our fine and the bore is still nicely cross-hatched. Pulled the valves and they're all straight and tight. They'll get a cleanup fresh seals and a re-lap.

Any general adice on all this much appreciated.

It was closer to .024 (,020 is the service limit)




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Old 11-07-2011, 09:40 AM   #56498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sourjon View Post
I have picked up a 2009 DR650 with around 6000 miles that's currently not running and need some advice. The battery was weak so I put it on a charger first thing and it seemed to charge up and cranks pretty strong. The gas looked and smelled old so I drained it and put in fresh with some Seafoam. When trying to start it will fire for maybe ten seconds with full choke and then die. Wait a few seconds and try again and same result. Any throttle kills it immediately. Moving the choke kills it. Any choke position but full it won't do anything. Good flow from petcock and I've opened the carb drain and got good flow there. Owner says he had service done at dealer less than 100 miles ago and road it home and ran fine. Been sitting for a month or so since. Air filter looks clean and removing it has no effect. Plugs look good. It wants to run but just can't get going. It has a Safari tank on it and the gas could have been year old given the size of the tank and the miles on it.It's not been ridden much. Thoughts??

John
I would start by replacing the pilot jet.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:41 AM   #56499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve View Post

It was closer to .024 (,020 is the service limit)
Steve, I know approximately jack shit about rings and engine work, but if the service limit is .020" and yours is at .024", that's 20% over. Isn't that a reason to replace?
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:43 AM   #56500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve View Post

It was closer to .024 (,020 is the service limit)
Steve, I know approximately jack shit about rings and engine work, but if the service limit is .020" and yours is at .024", that's 20% over. Isn't that a reason to replace?

EDIT: Re-read your post... I see you are planning to replace the ring... nevermind!
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:48 AM   #56501
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Well, according to Jake Wilson's shipping department, and other companies that ship to the "48 continental states"....
It is news to us in Alaska that we are not part of the North American continent!
When did that happen? Why weren't we taught that in school?

I wonder which of the bridges goes from Alaska Island to the mainland of Canada?

.
.
.
.

Yes, we know they mean "contiguous states".... we deal with it daily.
damn, that sucks. yes, i am sure the "contiguous" part is the hang-up, regarding shipping problems. i use the term "lower 48", so there's no confusion. tho technically, i guess someone in hawaii could think i meant they're included as well, and i am leaving out minnesota?

doug s.
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:52 AM   #56502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I would start by replacing the pilot jet.

Regards,

Derek
2nd guy to blanketly say that?

what ever happened to maintain/clean what you have in front of you? what about needing those skills for field repairs/on tour? also for most all, their local dealer will not have that part in stock so they wait another week vrs removing the pilot jet (you still remove it if you replace it) and clean it with carb cleaner and a small wire/needle if need be. he can get his bike running today.
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:24 AM   #56503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
this has been discussed before.

first it's the nature of a CV carb and it will never been totally responsive like a pumper carb. don't whack it.
Slide carbs will always have a loss in bottom end to lower midrange of the rpm range at the larger throttle openings because the air velocity (and therefore the quality of the metering) is proportional to the engine rpm and inversely proportional to the throttle opening. Slide carbs require you to learn throttle control. When tuned properly (I say "tuned properly" because it is possible to mask many problems with an overly rich mixture), you cannot open the throttle to WOT or near WOT suddenly from low rpm without significant hesitation (its even possible to stall the engine if you dont back off). A properly tuned accelerator pump will help this, but is not likely to completely mitigate the problem. On the other hand, CV carbs allow you to open the throttle all the way from low rpm and will pull smoothly when tuned correctly, because the height of the slide automatically attempts to maintain a consistent velocity.

Where you are absolutely correct is that the ability to open the throttle to WOT from low rpm without hesitation with a CV carb does come with a price, and that is in a comparative lack of responsiveness in those areas where the combination of throttle position and rpm does not cause too much of a loss in in intake velocity with the slide carb.

Another area where the CV carb has an advantage is in the ability to change the fuel delivery curve based on rpm via the needle shape. On a slide carb, you can add or subtract fuel via tuning a circuit responsible for a given throttle position, but you cannot change the shape of the delivery curve in terms or rpm. For instance, if you had a lean and a rich spot at different rpm at a certain throttle position, you could fix the lean spot while making the rich spot even richer, or you could fix the rich spot while making the lean spot even leaner. Unfortunately, these types of scenarios happen quite frequently...

Quote:
second the pilot circuit is often too rich. everyone will say turn out the pilot screw 2 turns but if you turn it out only 1 (which is counter intuitive, and you think then wtf did i buy this pilot screw) the bog goes away.
You should tune only the idle mixture with the pilot screw. Off idle should be tuned with the size of the pilot jet (on a CV carb that is).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:32 AM   #56504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
often, no need to do that just disassy the carb and clean it with pinesol.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
if nothing else remove the pilot jet (with small flat head screw driver) and gently poke the clogged jet with a needle tip to break the crudded up bad gas.

my bike sat over a partial winter (i thought i'd get back out on another desert tour so i didn't drain the carb) with gas and stabil and still clogged the pilot jet so it's easy to do. i started by removing the pilot jet and poking it with a needle to open the hole, then did a pine sol soak. bike ran in top shape after.

the OP is about a get a lesson on how to remove the carb and get the float bowl screws off w/ an hand impact hammer and use new allen screws or he's going to take it to a shop for them to do it.
Thanks for the thoughts. You have pretty much summed up what I already thought but wanted to be sure there wasn't some DR specific issue to look at first. Never owned a Suzuki before but I have an XR Honda and a KLR so I am familiar with carbs and thumpers .

Thanks for the replies and I'm sure if I buy this bike I'll be back for more.

John
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:39 AM   #56505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ag_streak View Post
Steve, I know approximately jack shit about rings and engine work, but if the service limit is .020" and yours is at .024", that's 20% over. Isn't that a reason to replace?
Sorry, I guess I was a little rambling in my original question. Simply put, where DR650's are concerned, do folks always replace the rings AND pistons as a general rule or just the rings as necessary? I spend my time mostly on 2 strokes where you generally always replace the piston and rings together.
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