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Old 11-08-2011, 04:25 PM   #56536
Rusty Rocket
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does anyone remember the link for all the handlebar dimensions comparison chart?
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #56537
dukegnarley
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Hey all,

Winter is right around the corner and I'm planning to mess around a bit with the dr while the roads are icy.

I'm looking to do a fork swap and was wondering how much better newer '06 or '07 ish RMZ forks would be than a '99 WR400F fork. I already have the yamaha fork and I know it will fit, I'm just wondering if it would be worth it to sell it and get one from an RMZ.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:18 PM   #56538
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
does anyone remember the link for all the handlebar dimensions comparison chart?

I found this http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=634120&page=2

see last post...but still can't find an answer to my question.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:07 PM   #56539
greer
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My understanding is that over-size bars require a mount, as you said, but taper back down to 7/8" to fit stock controls.

Sarah
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:17 PM   #56540
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
My understanding is that over-size bars require a mount, as you said, but taper back down to 7/8" to fit stock controls.

Sarah
Thanks Sarah.....that's what I assumed but wanted clarification before I ordered a new bar.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:39 PM   #56541
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
For my type of use and travel a "stoneage" bike is better. I just want a bike or two left on the market that can be repaired with items from a hardware store.
10-4! Makes sense...

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:39 PM   #56542
vorg
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Wicked Cogent group buy

Putting to gether an ADV group buy for the cogent shock upgrade.
Good chance to save $$ on the hard coat $45 instead of $125 if you go it on your own.

Chime in here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...301968&page=24

Lets get started on the off season upgrades.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:38 PM   #56543
LexTalionis
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Derek,

Thank you for taking the time to educate me.


Originally Posted by LexTalionis
However, I'm unsure just where this pilot jet resides, and how to get it out. ronayers.com shows a pilot jet in the fiche, but not where it fits into the carb. I looked at "The BST-40 Bible" and there's no mention of a pilot jet; there is mention of an idle jet.

Motolab:
Have a look at www.advrider.com/forums/searc...rchid=10680148. If you search for the term "pilot jet" within the results using your browser's "find" function, you will notice that the term actually appears in the BST40 bible thread a number of times.


Lex:
I clicked on your URL and got this from ADVrider:
D'oh... Our sucky search engine couldn't handle that term. Got Google?

So I went back to my archived copy of the BST-40 Bible and got the correct URL:
www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

I did not save the entire thread, and so did not search others’ response to the OP prior to posting my queries.

Just now I looked through the thread briefly, not using a search function, and found at post #41 the term “idle jet” and what I take to be a pic of a “pilot jet.” Post #44 provides a line drawing of what is called a “pilot jet.”

I then did a search for “pilot jet” and did find the two words in the Bible under “Jetting the BST-40”, however did not see any pic nor where it is located in the carb. My previous search did not extend past the disassembled parts of the carb, so I missed the words – though, the words did not educate me at all as the OP did not indicate any part in his pics by the name “pilot jet.”

The microfiche at ronayers.com, assumed to have been provided by Suzuki, shows a pilot jet but no idle jet.

You can see my, and others’, confusion. This is very interesting to me in light of my sticking up for you in post #56291 regarding proper nomenclature.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by LexTalionis
To get out in front of an answer, I'm guessing the idle jet in the Bible is what we call the pilot jet, and the float needs to be removed to access it from the interior underside of the carb body. Correct?

Motolab:
Yes. The float cage will need to be removed. Looking at the underside of the carb, the pilot jet can then be found in a well downstream and to the left of the main jet.

Lex:
If I have to remove the float assembly to get at the pilot jet, I’m replacing it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by LexTalionis
And so, what does the F/A screw, screw into if not a jet? Just a conical area in the carb body? A conical brass fitting in the carb body?

Motolab:
The idle mixture screw, aka pilot screw (which is in this case a fuel screw) screws into a well on the downstream underside of the carb body. The tip protrudes into a tapered bore, which exits in the throat of the carb just downstream of the edge of the butterfly. As delivered, the fuel screw well has a metal plug installed in order to prevent "tampering" (at least in the US).

Lex:
Yes, getting at the F/A screw is well known to me from fixing the carburetion on many bikes: “needing to fatten up the fuel/air mixture to overcome EPA-mandated leanness - my DR was the worst in that regard.” I had always thought the F/A screw screwed into the pilot jet until reading the BST-40 Bible, and then I thought certainly it screwed into a brass fitting pressed into the carb body, but you say it’s just a drilled-out and tapped hole. I love learning new stuff.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Motolab:
As delivered, the fuel screw well has a metal plug installed in order to prevent "tampering" (at least in the US).


Lex:
You may find it interesting that the Valkyrie's six carbs are not provided with a lead plug over the F/A mixture screw. Rather, the screw head is a "D" shape and apparently the EPA or Honda, or both, feel this is sufficient deterrent to access. Of course, my MotionPro tool has that bit.


Thanks for the education,
Lex
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:50 PM   #56544
russt
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lower altitude- better MPG?

Moved from 5,200 feet to 2,000 feet elevation. Getting better MPG now. Is this common? feels a little more powerful as well, not sure if it is just my imagination or realized power, but feels that way. Thicker air have anything to do with it?

Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:02 PM   #56545
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
I clicked on your URL and got this from ADVrider:
D'oh... Our sucky search engine couldn't handle that term. Got Google?
Sorry the link didn't work.
Quote:
You can see my, and others’, confusion. This is very interesting to me in light of my sticking up for you in post #56291 regarding proper nomenclature.
Personally, I prefer the term "pilot jet", but "idle jet" is not an incorrect term. I see how one might wish for a standardized name, but in reality not too much harm is done from using these interchangeably. The times when I am concerned is when terms are actually misleading.
Quote:
If I have to remove the float assembly to get at the pilot jet, I’m replacing it.
Probably no need to do that. The only parts that typically go wrong with the float assembly are the float needle, needle seat o-ring, and cold start enrichment feed pipe o-ring. These parts are also quite a bit cheaper than the float assembly.
Quote:
Yes, getting at the F/A screw is well known to me from fixing the carburetion on many bikes
I hate to do this to you, but the term "F/A screw" is actually one I would recommend against using, as it's an amalgam of two separate and distinct terms (just like "float level"). The BST40 carb's pilot screw/idle mixture screw is a fuel screw, which is unscrewed to richen and screwed in to lean. There are also carbs that use air screws to control the idle mixture, in which case the screw is unscrewed to lean and screwed in richen.
Quote:
You may find it interesting that the Valkyrie's six carbs are not provided with a lead plug over the F/A mixture screw. Rather, the screw head is a "D" shape and apparently the EPA or Honda, or both, feel this is sufficient deterrent to access.
Yes, most CV-carbureted Hondas from some time in the '80s forward use fuel screws with those D-shaped heads.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:03 PM   #56546
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Moved from 5,200 feet to 2,000 feet elevation. Getting better MPG now. Is this common? feels a little more powerful as well, not sure if it is just my imagination or realized power, but feels that way. Thicker air have anything to do with it?
Probably does.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:44 AM   #56547
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sourjon View Post
I've got an opportunity to pick this bike up at a sweet price and wanted to be sure there weren't any well known problems like the 08 KLR oil burning problem. I can deal with some bad gas and a stuffed jet.
John
The carb would be my least concern on the DR if I were looking at a used one. Of course you don't want to hassle with one, but in reality (IMHO) it is really pretty trouble free even though it gets a lot of comments on here sometimes, and is easily repaired if needed.

I would be more concerned with some of the more serious conditions that sometimes crop up:
Look at the upper chain roller. Ideally it has been removed and the screw hole filled with silicone or a screw. Worst case the chain removed it and there will be a big hole in the frame.
Also note the base gasket, as earlier ones (not sure what years, sorry) were paper and more suseptible to leakage.
There was also a year or two (98,99 I think )where the starter idler gear could cause catastrophic damage to the motor if the engine kicked back.
And of course the neutral sending unit (have to remove clutch cover) should be removed at some point.

These are all well documented and a little searching can get you more specifics. Anyway, sorry if repeating info you already got, it is hard to keep track on this thread as to what got said.

Good luck!
Edit: Just realized you are looking at a 2009 --- so you can forget about worrying about base gasket and starter, But get that chain roller off !!!!!

Rumlover screwed with this post 11-09-2011 at 06:52 AM
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:07 AM   #56548
blk-betty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
Edit: Just realized you are looking at a 2009 --- so you can forget about worrying about base gasket and starter, But get that chain roller off !!!!!
Just picked up an 09 with 2700 miles this past Saturday. So what's the deal with the chain roller? Don't remember reading anything about this.

Thanks
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:13 AM   #56549
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Just picked up an 09 with 2700 miles this past Saturday. So what's the deal with the chain roller? Don't remember reading anything about this.

Thanks
It WILL get knocked off by the chain at some point and leave a hole in the frame. Lots of possible reasons (chain adjustment, improper suspension setup, factory screwup on positioning, etc,etc) but the bottom line is it is not needed and will get broke off at some point if not removed. I prefer just filling the screw hole with silicone after removing it.
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:19 AM   #56550
Fire Escape
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Upper Roller

Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Just picked up an 09 with 2700 miles this past Saturday. So what's the deal with the chain roller? Don't remember reading anything about this.

Thanks
Use a google search of this thread and you will find pictures and comments.

Short version is that if your chain tension isn't loose enough you can rip the upper chain roller and it's mounting point where it is attached to the frame right off the bike. If you remove it, your chain doesn't need to be adjusted as loose, which makes it one of those 'Catch 22' (does anyone still remember what that meant?) things.
As in all things DR, opinions vary and anecdotal evidence is always considered 'proof'. I took mine off. YMMV, enjoy the new toy!


Bruce
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