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Old 11-12-2011, 05:44 PM   #56701
surplustravis
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Hey guys i have a near new Suzuki Gel seat for the dr650 for sale $82 shipped pm me or email at tiji@carolina.rr.com


My 2002 has the paper base gasket,, think i should chage it out or see if it leaks,, nothing at the moment ,,
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:53 PM   #56702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
The Trials tires sound good, but i worry that I need to run very low pressures for optimum performance. In the front, I normally run 22 lbs on road, 15 off.
My preferred front knobbly is the MT21.
It's not directional, so when it starts wearing the back of the knobs due to braking, you can reverse it. Several times.

Trials, no. Not on the front. With the weight of the bike, it'd get chewed apart under brakes.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:17 PM   #56703
JagLite
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Talking DR vs KLR

Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I've been riding dirt/trails for over 30 years.
Mostly on a 250. First on Honda XL250's and then on a Honda NX250.

I would like to move up to a 650 for longer distance riding. I know the KLR650 is more comfortable for road etc.
It's more bulky and higher which translates into more drops off road. There is more after market "stuff" available.

The Suzuki DR650 is lower and lighter, which would be better for me when the trails get rougher.

The DR650 doesn't have as comfortable seat as the KLR, but I can modify it like I've done on my NX's.

So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance
This is a popular topic and there are many threads on this alone.
But the simple answer is if you prefer exploring highways get the KLR but if you like to explore slower and even DIRTY roads get a DR. If you actually go OFFROAD... get the DR.

Both bikes are reliable and each have stock parts that many choose to replace but really you could ride either around the world stock. The DR seat is hated by most but a few don't mind it. Wind protection is lacking but really only missed at higher speeds. Stock suspension is very soft but so far I only installed some longer PVC spacers and that made a big improvement so you don't have to upgrade and spend if you don't go fast.

Here are a few more links of interest.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/11/143...Challenge.aspx
This is a nice comparison by motorcycle USA and they liked the KLR better due to the highway comfort.


http://www.dsadventures.com/dsbikes.htm
This is a brief description of several dual sports including the KLR & DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557477
This is a discussion of the reliability of the KLR vs the DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570519
This thread is titled KLR Vs DR and is for comments by people who have actually OWNED BOTH

Lot's for you to read over

Again, you like trailriding, you will be happier with the DR.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:18 PM   #56704
basketcase
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Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:35 PM   #56705
alonzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Spacer on the stem under the top triple. Also means you don't have to raise the bars as much.
Damn!!! How cool (and simple) is that? This one I'm going to have to try.
Thanks for the tip.

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Old 11-12-2011, 08:50 PM   #56706
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
What is your inseam? Mine is about 30", and I can now manage stock height OK with stock seat after some saddle time. A shaved/narrow seat would make planting feet even easier though.

Did you get the heaviest-rate springs available? Have you tried a heavier weight of fork oil? More preload? More damping?
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:52 PM   #56707
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skysailor View Post
I notice I have this little (about an inch in diameter) free wheeling wheel(?) about two inches aft of my counter sprocket, about an inch above my chain. What does this do?(chain guide?) Do I really need it? How to remove it? It's not anywhere near contacting the chain (at rest at least) but has chain wear on it. I have read that it can cause damage to the frame.
Lyle

Disregard. Found all the answers. Don't keep the chain too tight and all should be well. I can do this.
Umm...no. People have still ripped it off the frame. It's placement is wrong.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:05 PM   #56708
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it in the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
A suspension is supposed to bottom once in a while. If you spring and dampen it so it never bottoms, it will ride like a truck.

Although my ride height is stock, my pegs are down and back an inch (only 1/2" higher than yours). My toes panic when I hit a 'pucker moment'.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:20 PM   #56709
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
This is a popular topic and there are many threads on this alone.
But the simple answer is if you prefer exploring highways get the KLR but if you like to explore slower and even DIRTY roads get a DR. If you actually go OFFROAD... get the DR.
Other than better fitting taller riders in it's stock unaltered format, the basic elements of the KLR do not make a better highway bike, simply because it's burdened with an antique chain driven, doohickey tensioned, twin balance shaft design. Simply put, it's a vibratory piece of shit, that heralds back to the buzzy thumpers of the 70's. That basic design foundation doesn't become a better highway bike, just because it's oem fitted with a large gastank, windshield, tach, single or twin headlights and rear racks, because you're still saddled with excessive non-highway friendly vibrations, lots of em'. The damned standard oem equipment package, sells enough KLR's to the naive and uniformed showroom visiting customers, so let's not continue the tradition on our DR650 thread.

For an exceptionally smooth (for a large displacement single cyl) dualsport thumper, grab an 4.9 gal IMS gastank, your choice of aftermarket windshields, add a comfy seat and fucking voila, a simple reliable, sohc locknut and screw valve adjusted, SACS cooled, world class RTW DR650 dualsport tourer.

And I don't wave brand marque flags, I've just been lucky enough after 40 years of motorcycling, to recognize quality efforts and the DR650 is truly something special. Hell, Kawasaki can't even maintain quality control standards with the KLR's Thailand production, yet it's doesn't seem to be much of a problem with Triumphs built in the same country. A water cooled dohc thumper, that requires careful attention to it's motor oil levels, when running on the highway, spare me...

Rant over !

996DL

996DL screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 10:58 PM Reason: Spelink corerectshun
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:27 PM   #56710
Mr. B
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[QUOTE=larry31;17290025
There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?[/QUOTE]

I paid $3,200 for my '07 with 2,000 miles a year ago. We're in different parts of the country, but I still think $4K is a little high.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:02 PM   #56711
Harpua
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FWIW i paid $1900 for an '03 with 1700 miles. aside from waiting to clean the carb for too long, this bike is, for the money, totally awesome. every time i wrench on it, i'm amazed at its simplicity and ease of wrenching. 8 screws: the side panels are off, the seat is off, the tank is off and the carb is off. i mean c'mon!

and there are some sweet aftermarket items for the DR for sure (procycle!!!).

no KLR bashing here, but the big thing about the KLR for me is the big fairing on the old ones and especially the new ones. when i'm on a rough trail, i need to see as much as i can, and a big ol' fairing is a problem.

get a DR. you won't be disappointed. and screw 50/50. get the gnarliest tires you can.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:07 PM   #56712
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Umm...no. People have still ripped it off the frame. It's placement is wrong.
I added pre-load to the rear shock and the wear on the roller seems to have abated. 32,000 mile on the bike now.

At some point in the past, the roller ripped out of the frame of my wife's DR650 with the lowering kit. 22,000 miles on her bike now. I filled it up with liquid metal and there seems to be no distortion in the frame.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #56713
ER70S-2
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Cool2 So, wuddaya really think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
....the basic elements of the KLR do not make a better highway bike, simply because it's burdened with an antique chain driven, doohickey tensioned, twin balance shaft design. Simply put, it's a vibratory piece of shit.........

......you're still saddled with excessive non-highway friendly vibrations, lots of em'. The damned standard oem equipment package, sells enough KLR's to the naive and uniformed showroom visiting customers......


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
For an exceptionally smooth (for a large displacement single cyl) dualsport thumper, grab an 4.9 gal IMS gastank, your choice of aftermarket windshields, add a comfy seat and fucking voila, a simple reliable, sohc locknut and screw valve adjusted, SACS cooled, world class RTW DR650 dualsport tourer.

And I don't wave brand marque flags, I've just been lucky enough after 40 years of motorcycling, to recognize quality efforts and the DR650 is truly something special.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Hell, Kawasaki can't even maintain quality control standards with the KLR's Thailand production, yet it's doesn't seem to be much of a problem with Triumphs built in the same country. A water cooled dohc thumper, that requires careful attention to it's motor oil levels, when running on the highway, spare me...


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Rant over !


Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:31 PM   #56714
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I've been riding dirt/trails for over 30 years.
Mostly on a 250. First on Honda XL250's and then on a Honda NX250.

I would like to move up to a 650 for longer distance riding. I know the KLR650 is more comfortable for road etc.
It's more bulky and higher which translates into more drops off road. There is more after market "stuff" available.

The Suzuki DR650 is lower and lighter, which would be better for me when the trails get rougher.

The DR650 doesn't have as comfortable seat as the KLR, but I can modify it like I've done on my NX's.

So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance.

There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?
The price sounds expensive, but it might be typical in your area for a bike like that. I'd look around for a better deal though. Be willing to travel a few hours and your options could get a LOT better.

Some people might say the KLR is better on the highway, but I've never seen a 50+WHP KLR, and a 40WHP DR with tractor-like torque isn't hard to come by for pretty cheap. The DR is a smooth single that can run slab all day at 70+MPH (GPS), with power to pass, and without burning oil...or it can idle for over an hour without overheating. I know firsthand. My DR did both last weekend, when it wasn't running sugarsand and whoops on forest trails. It's sure no 250lb trailbike, or fully-faired touring rig, but it can jump right from a sandy ATV trail to running 70+ on a highway without skipping a beat. You might just bottom the skid a little when landing, like I saw somebody do. (It'll also run 70+ on the dirt, but that's not your stated pace.)

I rode mine from Melbourne to Orlando to Ocala, then back to Orlando, then back to Ocala, then back to Melbourne last weekend...stock seat, no windscreen, no touring pegs, DS tires. It was about an 800-mile weekend. The bike was just fine, even throwing in trails and idling for an hour or so to light up a dark highway shoulder for a broke-down rider.

KLR is better on the highway? Maybe. If your suspension, steering, and tires are sorted though, a DR is pretty steady on the slab. There are also ways to make it even better than stock, like swapping to a more aerodynamic front fender. KLR fans rave about the windscreen, big tank, big seat, and liquid cooling, among other things...then swap on a taller screen, get a plastic/bigger tank, throw on a Corbin, and have cooling issues (bad fans, bad fan switches, boiling over, busted rads, etc.). I haven't needed a windscreen for my DR, but quite a few are available, with some costing less than $5 (if you or an associate have a cat). I haven't needed a different seat either, but I can see how many would, so they do something about it for under $400. My DR came with a 4.9gal IMS that I can fit at least 5.1gal in. It typically gets me 220-230 miles before I hit reserve. If you want crazy range though, an 8gal+ tank is available for DRs, with some people fitting close to 10gal in it. That would give me almost 500 miles of range. There are many vibe-negating features built into the DR too, such as rubber-damped bars and pegs, and a gear-driven balancer.

Mechanical concerns? NSU screws (and most other fasteners on any thumper) need to be Loc-tited and torqued properly. 2003 and earlier might have a paper base gasket that can leak if not replaced or siliconed. Some mid-run present-model DRs also had a starter torque-limiter issue, but early and later models are fine. Grease...Suzuki doesn't believe in putting much in the bearings when assembling, so lube them. The upper chain roller also has a tendency to rip off and take part of the frame with it. Most of us just replace the roller with a Loc-tited setscrew and never worry about it again. 3rd gear can be an issue for some years. Google that one. Get a skid and some sidecase coverage, as the DR doesn't come with any.

Mechanical advantages compared to a KLR? It's air/oil-cooled, with an oiljet that sprays the piston. You can idle this bike in the heat, or run it flat out on the slab...It'll take it without spewing coolant like a liquid-cooled or seizing like an air-cooled. Any advantage the liquid-cooling of the KLR is supposed to provide (more power potential), it doesn't seem to be taking advantage of. The DR has simple screw-locknut valve adjusters too, compared to the KLR's shims. The DR is also a bit lighter, especially compared to the new gen KLR, and considerable weight can yet be shaved. It doesn't break as easily when biffed either. The DR suspension tends to be a bit better, as are the stock brakes, but both could be much better with some attention. The 17" DR rear wheel is a non-issue. 18" wheels are available, and many tires are available these days for the 17"er anyway...cheaper. Aftermarket mods can REALLY improve the DR dramatically, and many don't even cost much or involve much effort. I don't hear of the KLR responding as drastically to simple mods without some considerable $$ being spent. Just a jetting kit, opened intake, and a quiet-yet-breathing exhaust can make the DR a whole different animal from stock...still getting around 50MPG. The biggest advantage I feel though is, the DR feels like a big, fat, heavy dirtbike that is comfortable running slab. The KLR feels more like a thumper streetbike that is manageable in the dirt. The DR feels slightly better-built for taking a pounding.

Where the DR truly lacks when compared to the KLR is simply in passenger space. My DR often carries 2 with luggage, but we're not big people, and we can't exactly stretch out on this thing. We're 5'8"/200lb and 5'4'/120lb, and I'm gonna be doing some peg mods (lowering pillions 2-6" and adding touring pegs). Bigger people with a lot of 2-up would want something with more space, like a KLR. If you're a huge dude, you might fit the KLR better too, but some pretty big people still like the DR.

Don't expect either bike to run trails like a light 250. They're big. They're heavy. They're torquey.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:37 PM   #56715
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
It was about an 800-mile weekend.
Shoot, I ran a 770 mile day on the DR650 a few years ago. It wasn't even planned...I just ended up riding all the way home. No problems, perfectly comfortable. It's a great road bike.

ps. I started out late in the morning and rode out of the Ozarks on Warloop road. The DR is truly a great all-rounder.

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