the DR650 thread

[Paddle007]

Never use those fiber wheels around an open engine. The material, aluminum oxide? , which flies off the wheel is extremely small and impossible to remove from your engine. Major automotive manufacturers have bulletins explaing the problem. They also are too abrasive. You will not have a flat surface when your done. I know it's not alot of metal removed but the time saved is not worth it.

[mslow]

I did a search but either I suck at using the search tool or the search tool sucks.
Two questions
First, how do you search for a specific term? I've seen where you use quotes to indicate a specific term.

Second question, with the 520 conversion, are there additional spacers needed and if I'm going to a 46 tooth rear, should I get rid of the top roller. The rear shock has been resprung and revalved so the sag is dead on for off road set up.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I've heard of some using the 3M fiber wheels on an air grinder, but those will turn high rpm and could do damage if you press too hard.

Don't even consider it. I've seen dozens of cylinders and other parts ruined because some "mechanic" user an abrasive wheel to remove a gasket.

[FloridaSteve]

I've found the best way to search this site is through google. go to "Advanced search" and enter www.advrider.com as the the domain. Then you can be as specific as you want to and use less than five characters. 2 cents. Aslo I have a 520 chain and it was plug and play. No extra spacers. And yes get rid of the top roller. It's useless.

Originally Posted by msanna

I did a search but either I suck at using the search tool or the search tool sucks.
Two questions
First, how do you search for a specific term? I've seen where you use quotes to indicate a specific term.

Second question, with the 520 conversion, are there additional spacers needed and if I'm going to a 46 tooth rear, should I get rid of the top roller. The rear shock has been resprung and revalved so the sag is dead on for off road set up.

[Fire Escape]

Originally Posted by msanna

I did a search but either I suck at using the search tool or the search tool sucks.
Two questions
First, how do you search for a specific term? I've seen where you use quotes to indicate a specific term.

Second question, with the 520 conversion, are there additional spacers needed and if I'm going to a 46 tooth rear, should I get rid of the top roller. The rear shock has been resprung and revalved so the sag is dead on for off road set up.

If you are asking about the "integral" search tool here .... yes it sucks, most use google or whatever they are familiar with and include "adv" in the search.

No you do not need additional spacers for the 520 conversion. Evidence points to there being no downside to removing the upper roller. As recently pointed out not all fail if left on but if the one that does is yours ...... A look back through just the last few days will let you see the evidence and decide for yourself.

Bruce

[EvanADV]

Originally Posted by motolab

During what throttle position(s) (1/16, 1/8, or 1/4 opening) does the bog and low speed surging occur?

Regards,

Derek

Bog is just of idle...i'd say no more than 1/8 throttle.

The low speed surging is when i'm in a low gear around, i'd guess, 1/4 throttle, like if you're trying to maintain 25mph down a hill with a cop behind you without applying brake.

The suggestion to mark off the 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT is a good one, I may go ahead and do that.

Originally Posted by procycle

At 2.5 turns the idle mixture screw is probably too far out. Most riders are reporting about 1 turn out will clean up the off idle bog. To cure the low speed surging you might try lowering the clip (raising the needle) one position. Only make one change at a time, then test ride.

I could swear the instructions recommended 2.5 turns. Ooops. I'll give it a shot with 1 turn out. I'm assuming the bog is typically a rich condition, then?

What's the typical method to set that fuel screw? Listen for some specific behavior at idle while adjusting?

I think it's so awesome you're out here on the boards helping us.

[EvanADV]

Originally Posted by msanna

I did a search but either I suck at using the search tool or the search tool sucks.
Two questions
First, how do you search for a specific term? I've seen where you use quotes to indicate a specific term.

As mentioned, use google.

Easy thing to do is type "site:advrider.com" then a space and your search term. For example you can type "site:advrider.com dr650 520 conversion"

[eakins]

normal pilot jet tuning methods w/ the BST result in mixture that produces bog. you need to ignore what you know from other bikes as the BST carb oerforms better w/ a lean pilot jet circuit from off idle throttle. it is what it is.

Originally Posted by c2c4c

Bog is just of idle...i'd say no more than 1/8 throttle.

The low speed surging is when i'm in a low gear around, i'd guess, 1/4 throttle, like if you're trying to maintain 25mph down a hill with a cop behind you without applying brake.

The suggestion to mark off the 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT is a good one, I may go ahead and do that.



I could swear the instructions recommended 2.5 turns. Ooops. I'll give it a shot with 1 turn out. I'm assuming the bog is typically a rich condition, then?

What's the typical method to set that fuel screw? Listen for some specific behavior at idle while adjusting?

I think it's so awesome you're out here on the boards helping us.

[vintagespeed]

Originally Posted by c2c4c

....Screw 2.5 turns out. What should I play with the dial it in?....

typically, if the best running position is that far out on the idle mixture screw, your pilot jet is too lean. or dirty...

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

The DJ needle is fine.....

your dyno chart is impressive but it only demonstrates that you MAIN JET is fine. not sure what that has to do with the needle?

[EvanADV]

Originally Posted by eakins

normal pilot jet tuning methods w/ the BST result in mixture that produces bog. you need to ignore what you know from other bikes as the BST carb oerforms better w/ a lean pilot jet circuit from off idle throttle. it is what it is.

Cool, so a leaner pilot jet circuit is a good thing. I'm guessing that means the factory setting may not be as bad as most think?

Not applying what I know from other bikes, lol. My first bike was a Bandit 1250 which was FI. Then I bought a DR. I'm 22, and my Dad couldn't even teach me to change the oil in a car growing up. Thanks to forums i'm able to get some of that wise-old-man mechanical advice instead of always having to learn the hard way (like with my cam chain tensioner incident)

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by procycle

Don't even consider it. I've seen dozens of cylinders and other parts ruined because some "mechanic" used an abrasive wheel to remove a gasket.

Originally Posted by Paddle007

Never use those fiber wheels around an open engine. The material, aluminum oxide? , which flies off the wheel is extremely small and impossible to remove from your engine. Major automotive manufacturers have bulletins explaing the problem. They also are too abrasive. You will not have a flat surface when your done. I know it's not alot of metal removed but the time saved is not worth it.

I wondered if they were too aggressive. I'll edit my post.

[WET&MUDDY]

I haven't signed on this forum in a while, last time I was up to speed there was just over a 1000 post now you guys are climbing to 4000!

I have a 2007 DR650SE with just over 10K miles on it. Extras include Renzaco Racing custom made seat, Renthal bars, Acerbis hand guards, skid plate, rear brake guard, SW Motto Tech luggage rack, Dyno Jet kit and K&N air filter. Kelly Blue Book says 3300. I say 3500 takes her away with all the extras I mentioned. Located in North Eastern Connecticut e-mail me if your serious at mdcxlc@yahoo.com and I'll send pics. Bike is blue. I bought a house and enough said.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by c2c4c

Bog is just of idle...i'd say no more than 1/8 throttle.

The low speed surging is when i'm in a low gear around, i'd guess, 1/4 throttle, like if you're trying to maintain 25mph down a hill with a cop behind you without applying brake.

The suggestion to mark off the 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT is a good one, I may go ahead and do that.

Adjust the idle mixture via the method below. Then, via the marks, determine during which throttle position the problem happens predominantly. If it happens more around 1/16 and 1/8 opening, change the pilot jet. If it happens more around 1/4 opening, change the jet needle clip position. If it happens at all throttle openings below ~3-3.5K rpm, the float height is set incorrectly or the emulsion tube is worn out.

What's the typical method to set that fuel screw? Listen for some specific behavior at idle while adjusting

Start and let the engine warm up. Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean, adjust the mixture screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust no more than 1/8 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Note the final mixture screw setting. If you make other changes, repeat the process.

Regards,

Derek

[motolab]

Originally Posted by vintagespeed

your dyno chart is impressive but it only demonstrates that you MAIN JET is fine. not sure what that has to do with the needle?

The carb in question is a CV type. Therefore, if it was known that the chart was for WOT, and if it had a CO trace, the chart would actually show us whether or not the needle shape is correct. Since it has an "A/F ratio" trace, it only shows us that there was an improvement between runs.

If it was known that the chart was for WOT, and if the carb in question was a slide type, you would be correct.

Regards,

Derek

[EvanADV]

Originally Posted by motolab

Lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean, adjust the mixture screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust no more than 1/8 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm. Note the final mixture screw setting. If you make other changes, repeat the process.

Regards,

Derek

Thanks. Guess it'll have to wait until I have the Vapor installed one day so I can use the tach. Unless there is some other way to adjust idle speed to spec/below spec (by ear...)