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Old 11-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #56701
skysailor
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Kenora, Canada
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I notice I have this little (about an inch in diameter) free wheeling wheel(?) about two inches aft of my counter sprocket, about an inch above my chain. What does this do?(chain guide?) Do I really need it? How to remove it? It's not anywhere near contacting the chain (at rest at least) but has chain wear on it. I have read that it can cause damage to the frame.
Lyle

Disregard. Found all the answers. Don't keep the chain too tight and all should be well. I can do this.

skysailor screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 03:44 PM
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:45 PM   #56702
Paddle007
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YZ forks

I bought a USD fork setup to upgrade my DR. They are from a 04 YZ450F. I thought I could lower the forks in the trees but the forks are tapered. It appears as if there would be very little height adjusment. My internet sessions tell me the 05/06 are not tapered but every pic I find appears as if they are. I know the trees are different on 03/04 and 05/06 models. Anyone have an idea which Yammie YZ/WR uses a straight USD fork?
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:46 PM   #56703
TrophyHunter
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Larry - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=44599

I've never added 'em up, but if you're talking about a 2008 or newer KLR....I'd guess the DR might have more aftermarket stuff available since the bike has been basically the same since '96. The 2007 and older KLR had a long run and I'm sure has some aftermarket availability.

As far as the price....I don't know your area but it sounds a little high if it's bone stock. I've always been a fan of "if it's reasonable, in your budget & makes you smile..."

Happy hunting!
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:58 PM   #56704
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance.

There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?
The DR650 sounds like your bike. Better than KLR650 at everything except Interstate highways and hauling your ass + 100lbs of cargo (but 50lbs she can do!).

The DR650SE is low-maintenance, reliable, smooth, the Swiss Army knife of thumpers.

Only tire issue is the 17" rear wheel limits choices for serious dirt tires, but there are plenty of decent, DOT dirt tires available.

$4k in Canada doesn't sound too $ for a clean one, but in the US, that's a lot of $ for a 4 year old bike especially, in the North, at the end of the season.

You'll need bark-busters, case savers, a rear rack & a skid-plate, and you should be good to go.

If you buy used and it still has OEM tires (likely at 5,000), it's time for a change, and you get to choose whether you want to go more dirt or more street. Contrary to much internet wisdom, Trailwings are decent tires for road and occasional mild, off-road. You just have to decide if more dirt or more street is in your mission profile.

I am about to post a question about tires, trying like everyone else to find the perfect "does everything" tire.

Good luck and happy hunting.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:15 PM   #56705
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
I bought a USD fork setup to upgrade my DR. They are from a 04 YZ450F. I thought I could lower the forks in the trees but the forks are tapered. It appears as if there would be very little height adjusment. My internet sessions tell me the 05/06 are not tapered but every pic I find appears as if they are. I know the trees are different on 03/04 and 05/06 models. Anyone have an idea which Yammie YZ/WR uses a straight USD fork?
Spacer on the stem under the top triple. Also means you don't have to raise the bars as much.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:19 PM   #56706
jon_l
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need a FRONT tire for OK road, but more off-road

need to choose a Front tire which is OK (not scary) on road, but more suited for gravel and off-road (soft conditions, sand). I would rather suffer noise and short life on-road, than have the front wash-out and scare me like the current IRC GP-1 (which is a good compormise tire, in the same vein as a Trailwing)

The current list, all priced from Motorcycle Superstore:

Michelin T63 Dual Sport Front ($60)
Pirelli Scorpion Pro All Terrain/Enduro Front ($74)
IRC TR8 Battle Rally ($49)
Pirelli MT 43 Trials Front Tire ($69)
Bridgestone ED03 Front Tire ($62)
Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Front ($71)

The Trials tires sound good, but i worry that I need to run very low pressures for optimum performance. In the front, I normally run 22 lbs on road, 15 off.

I would love some feedback. I have searched and read many dozens of posts already, but many are rear tire related. I am seeeking the best FRONT tire for mostly off-road.

Thank you.

Jon
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jon_l screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 06:09 PM
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:20 PM   #56707
996DL
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Location: finally back in paradise...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The alternator rotor bolt torque is 115.5 ft-lbs., but you shouldn't have to remove that one very frequently, if ever.

I use Armstrong 1/4 & 3/8 drives and a Proto 1/2 drive. They're high quality units.

Regards,

Derek
I didn't want to overwhelm Stringer99, with suggesting you really need three torque wrenches, I finish up my personal collection with an inexpensive offshore 1/2" drive torque wrench for the high torque applications (automotive wheels, rare mc instances), beyond the rather common 75-80 ft/lbs with good quality 3/8" drive torque wrenches...
I like about 150 inch pounds capability for my 1/4" drive... Yadda, yadda, blah, blah...

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Old 11-12-2011, 05:56 PM   #56708
Mercenary
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Location: Ft St John, BC Canada
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Larry: I was in the same boat as yourself and went with the DR 650 simply because its reliable like a hammer and I know I won't be doing a whole lot of long distance touring with it. However I think most of the DR's shortcomings on the highway can be addressed by the aftermarket. As for flaws and weak points mechanically...well each bike has them but it seems like the DR has very few in comparison to other rides.

I just bought my 08 with 4k kms on the clock for 43 hundred bucks....
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:44 PM   #56709
surplustravis
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Hey guys i have a near new Suzuki Gel seat for the dr650 for sale $82 shipped pm me or email at tiji@carolina.rr.com


My 2002 has the paper base gasket,, think i should chage it out or see if it leaks,, nothing at the moment ,,
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:53 PM   #56710
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
The Trials tires sound good, but i worry that I need to run very low pressures for optimum performance. In the front, I normally run 22 lbs on road, 15 off.
My preferred front knobbly is the MT21.
It's not directional, so when it starts wearing the back of the knobs due to braking, you can reverse it. Several times.

Trials, no. Not on the front. With the weight of the bike, it'd get chewed apart under brakes.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:17 PM   #56711
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Talking DR vs KLR

Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
I've been riding dirt/trails for over 30 years.
Mostly on a 250. First on Honda XL250's and then on a Honda NX250.

I would like to move up to a 650 for longer distance riding. I know the KLR650 is more comfortable for road etc.
It's more bulky and higher which translates into more drops off road. There is more after market "stuff" available.

The Suzuki DR650 is lower and lighter, which would be better for me when the trails get rougher.

The DR650 doesn't have as comfortable seat as the KLR, but I can modify it like I've done on my NX's.

So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance
This is a popular topic and there are many threads on this alone.
But the simple answer is if you prefer exploring highways get the KLR but if you like to explore slower and even DIRTY roads get a DR. If you actually go OFFROAD... get the DR.

Both bikes are reliable and each have stock parts that many choose to replace but really you could ride either around the world stock. The DR seat is hated by most but a few don't mind it. Wind protection is lacking but really only missed at higher speeds. Stock suspension is very soft but so far I only installed some longer PVC spacers and that made a big improvement so you don't have to upgrade and spend if you don't go fast.

Here are a few more links of interest.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/11/143...Challenge.aspx
This is a nice comparison by motorcycle USA and they liked the KLR better due to the highway comfort.


http://www.dsadventures.com/dsbikes.htm
This is a brief description of several dual sports including the KLR & DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557477
This is a discussion of the reliability of the KLR vs the DR

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=570519
This thread is titled KLR Vs DR and is for comments by people who have actually OWNED BOTH

Lot's for you to read over

Again, you like trailriding, you will be happier with the DR.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:18 PM   #56712
basketcase
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Location: Fading...
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Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:35 PM   #56713
alonzo
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Location: Northwest Ozarks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Spacer on the stem under the top triple. Also means you don't have to raise the bars as much.
Damn!!! How cool (and simple) is that? This one I'm going to have to try.
Thanks for the tip.

-- alonzo
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:50 PM   #56714
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Back 25 pages or more I asked about wiring in the LED tail light illumination that I received from ProCycle as part of their tail end "clean up kit." I snipped the stock plug in and used it. Thanks to whoever suggested that.

On another topic, today I went riding on some moderately rough forest trails (double track) and bottomed out the front suspension upon jumping a terrace in the road. That was a first.

I am running Eibachs front and rear.

The bike has been (factory) lowered.

Faced with a choice of raising the bike back up or having my feet on the ground at occasional pucker moments, I'll keep it i the lowered position.

So what are my options, if any, for stiffening it up a bit more?
What is your inseam? Mine is about 30", and I can now manage stock height OK with stock seat after some saddle time. A shaved/narrow seat would make planting feet even easier though.

Did you get the heaviest-rate springs available? Have you tried a heavier weight of fork oil? More preload? More damping?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:52 PM   #56715
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skysailor View Post
I notice I have this little (about an inch in diameter) free wheeling wheel(?) about two inches aft of my counter sprocket, about an inch above my chain. What does this do?(chain guide?) Do I really need it? How to remove it? It's not anywhere near contacting the chain (at rest at least) but has chain wear on it. I have read that it can cause damage to the frame.
Lyle

Disregard. Found all the answers. Don't keep the chain too tight and all should be well. I can do this.
Umm...no. People have still ripped it off the frame. It's placement is wrong.
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