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Old 11-12-2011, 12:09 AM   #56701
PHILinFRANCE
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Originally Posted by exoff-roadgoat View Post
This guys a poser, everyone knows there are no Phils in France.

Je ne apolagise monsieur !!!!!! peut Phillippe est correcte
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:58 AM   #56702
mercenario27
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Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
I do agree that if you keep the chain at proper tension (not to tight) the roller may never be an issue. But fully loaded on a rough trail.. you're taking your chances. Just sayin"
So what your saying if your stay up on your maintance of chain and spockets and not riding all loaded up for fine with a top roller.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:34 AM   #56703
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I'll see your 11-11-11 and raise you 28,000.



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Another awesome day riding in the Rockies.

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Old 11-12-2011, 08:26 AM   #56704
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whats a good torque wrench(s) to have for the dr? thanks to eakins' post i see that all bolts are under 80 ft lbs. im just starting to get somewhat proficient working on this bike, and need something soon. im an overtightener/bolt stripper
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:48 AM   #56705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
whats a good torque wrench(s) to have for the dr? thanks to eakins' post i see that all bolts are under 80 ft lbs. im just starting to get somewhat proficient working on this bike, and need something soon. im an overtightener/bolt stripper
You need two, with your 3/8" drive not exceeding aprox 80 ft/lbs and a 1/4" drive inch/lbs for the small torque applications...

ft/lbs X 12 = inch/lbs

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Old 11-12-2011, 08:59 AM   #56706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
whats a good torque wrench(s) to have for the dr? thanks to eakins' post i see that all bolts are under 80 ft lbs. im just starting to get somewhat proficient working on this bike, and need something soon. im an overtightener/bolt stripper
SK has always been a solid just under $100 brand, but they seem to be out of biz. K-D looks the same however. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-28...-wrenches.aspx truth is you really need 2 wrenches to do it accurately.
one real low range to 20-25lbs and one 10ft to 80/100ftlbs or more. a wrench is not accurate at the bottom or top and so if it starts at 5lbs and you try to torque to 5lbs it will be off. DR has a few low torque bolts.

if you're on a budget buy this and this
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...tan-23147.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-10...ral-3t317.aspx (in lbs divide by 12 for ft)
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eakins screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 09:24 AM
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:59 AM   #56707
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Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
So what your saying if your stay up on your maintance of chain and spockets and not riding all loaded up for fine with a top roller.
With indexed snail adjusters, just one notch too tight and a couple of big hits offroad and whoops, there goes the upper roller hardware. Not one posting of anyone without the upper roller, suffering chain derailments etc., that I've ever read / heard of...
My 07's upper was removed immediately and the lower roller, replaced with the traditional bearing equipped jobber unit.

Reminds me of the KLR crowd, that argues against upgrading the "doohickey."

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Old 11-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #56708
mslow
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Questions on driveshaft and engine sprocket...

I'm replacing my front sprocket and going to a 520, when removing the front sprocket, I noticed a bit of play in the drive shaft.
I put it in gear and shook it forward and reverse and it has some play in it, is this normal and if so, how much?

Next, while installing the front sprocket, I noticed that tightening the sprocket bolts do not putt the retainer tight enough to pinch the gasket/bushing between the two...are there any specs on what that spacer should be?

Finally, pulled the rear carrier out and then separated the sprocket carrier from the hub, the bushings are pretty stiff, feel more like plastic then rubber. When together there is no play, but in my pass experience, there should be some resistance putting the two together to stress the bushings a bit, is it the same case with these bikes?

Thanks
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #56709
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
You need two, with your 3/8" drive not exceeding aprox 80 ft/lbs and a 1/4" drive inch/lbs for the small torque applications...

ft/lbs X 12 = inch/lbs

996DL
yep!
my low torque SK is a 3/8" and it works just fine as SK did not have a 1/4" equal one. i just use a 3/8" adapter to 1/4" (oil filer cover work) if need be but find it faster to work w/ 3/8" sockets as much as possible. like that low-range K-D my SK goes to 250 inlbs (20ft) not 200 like the cheaper ones so i'm using it alot for 10-18ftlb torques and using 3/8" sockets. if i was buying one only to 200 in-lbs i think maybe i'd get a 1/4" . either way as long as the range is correct.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...tan-23146.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-15...ols-85050.aspx
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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eakins screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 09:16 AM
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:08 AM   #56710
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
With indexed snail adjusters, just one notch too tight and a couple of big hits offroad and whoops, there goes the upper roller hardware. Not one posting of anyone without the upper roller, suffering chain derailments etc., that I've ever read / heard of...
My 07's upper was removed immediately and the lower roller, replaced with the traditional bearing equipped jobber unit.

Reminds me of the KLR crowd, that argues against upgrading the "doohickey."

996DL
no chain derailments but plenty of ripped out upper rollers & damaged frames.
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Butler Maps website:
http://www.butlermaps.com
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:25 AM   #56711
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the more i check out that K-D, it's built the exact same way as SK and is priced the same, so i'd say they are the same just branded differently.

so these are the 2 wrenches i own. had them for years but i like to invest in quality tools to last.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-14...ools-3459.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-14...ools-3460.aspx



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
SK has always been a solid just under $100 brand, but they seem to be out of biz. K-D looks the same however. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-28...-wrenches.aspx truth is you really need 2 wrenches to do it accurately.
one real low range to 20-25lbs and one 10ft to 80/100ftlbs or more. a wrench is not accurate at the bottom or top and so if it starts at 5lbs and you try to torque to 5lbs it will be off. DR has a few low torque bolts.

if you're on a budget buy this and this
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...tan-23147.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-10...ral-3t317.aspx (in lbs divide by 12 for ft)
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Butler Maps website:
http://www.butlermaps.com
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:11 AM   #56712
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
whats a good torque wrench(s) to have for the dr? thanks to eakins' post i see that all bolts are under 80 ft lbs. im just starting to get somewhat proficient working on this bike, and need something soon. im an overtightener/bolt stripper
The alternator rotor bolt torque is 115.5 ft-lbs., but you shouldn't have to remove that one very frequently, if ever.

I use Armstrong 1/4 & 3/8 drives and a Proto 1/2 drive. They're high quality units.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:36 AM   #56713
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
Questions on driveshaft and engine sprocket...

I'm replacing my front sprocket and going to a 520, when removing the front sprocket, I noticed a bit of play in the drive shaft.
I put it in gear and shook it forward and reverse and it has some play in it, is this normal and if so, how much?
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and noticed the same thing. There is always some driveline slack, so I measured mine. I put the bike in 5th gear (most slack), pushed the bike forward to remove the slack, marked the front of the kickstand, rolled it back to remove slack the other direction and measured distance traveled. I got 6-7/8". Would someone else let me know what theirs is? Don't push the bike hard, in 5th gear you'll turn the engine over and get a false measurement.



Quote:
Next, while installing the front sprocket, I noticed that tightening the sprocket bolts do not put the retainer tight enough to pinch the gasket/bushing between the two...are there any specs on what that spacer should be?
Mine is loose also (15t). If you put the sprocket on inside out, it will be really loose.

This is the inside of the sprocket on a 525 chain. It seems that the 520 conversion changes that, becoming the outside. In that case the cushion will fit over the sprocket shoulder and be useless. It doesn't have to be used, on a 14t it won't fit, so I leave it off.



Quote:
Finally, pulled the rear carrier out and then separated the sprocket carrier from the hub, the bushings are pretty stiff, feel more like plastic then rubber. When together there is no play, but in my pass experience, there should be some resistance putting the two together to stress the bushings a bit, is it the same case with these bikes?

Thanks
If your riding is aggressive, banging gears and bouncing off the rev limiter, fresh cushions are good preventive maintenance. If you're riding is easy commuting, fresh cushions are less important. I put a new set in this spring and they're already pretty hard at 8,000 mostly easy miles.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:10 PM   #56714
mslow
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Location: Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and noticed the same thing. There is always some driveline slack, so I measured mine. I put the bike in 5th gear (most slack), pushed the bike forward to remove the slack, marked the front of the kickstand, rolled it back to remove slack the other direction and measured distance traveled. I got 6-7/8". Would someone else let me know what theirs is? Don't push the bike hard, in 5th gear you'll turn the engine over and get a false measurement.



Mine is loose also (15t). If you put the sprocket on inside out, it will be really loose.

This is the inside of the sprocket on a 525 chain. It seems that the 520 conversion changes that, becoming the outside. In that case the cushion will fit over the sprocket shoulder and be useless. It doesn't have to be used, on a 14t it won't fit, so I leave it off.



If your riding is aggressive, banging gears and bouncing off the rev limiter, fresh cushions are good preventive maintenance. If you're riding is easy commuting, fresh cushions are less important. I put a new set in this spring and they're already pretty hard at 8,000 mostly easy miles.
I can't try out the slack measurement the way you described since my chain is off and rear wheel is off already, but am interested to hear from others on this. Mine has slack in the transmission as well but also has some on the driveshaft, like the teeth on the driveshaft have worn. The farther I push the sprocket back on the shaft, the less play, as in no play when pushed all the way in, but when I mount the sprocket retainer it pulls it out to where there is more play.

As far as the front sprocket, I've not heard of running the flat side of the thinner sprocket on the inside, why would you need to do that?

Also, I ride mostly off road with the on road riding strictly to get me to trails.

Thanks for this info so far, looking forward to more so I can make sure this is right!
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:18 PM   #56715
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by msanna View Post
As far as the front sprocket, I've not heard of running the flat side of the thinner sprocket on the inside, why would you need to do that?
The 520 sprockets are thinner.
The rear sprocket centreline is moved slightly toward the hub. and if you use the retainer plate and not the e-clip on the front sprocket, it'll be moved a bit toward the outside compared. It adds up to about the shoulder thickness. Unless you're using DR750 sprockets with the huge shoulder
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