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Old 11-12-2011, 10:06 AM   #56701
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
You need two, with your 3/8" drive not exceeding aprox 80 ft/lbs and a 1/4" drive inch/lbs for the small torque applications...

ft/lbs X 12 = inch/lbs

996DL
yep!
my low torque SK is a 3/8" and it works just fine as SK did not have a 1/4" equal one. i just use a 3/8" adapter to 1/4" (oil filer cover work) if need be but find it faster to work w/ 3/8" sockets as much as possible. like that low-range K-D my SK goes to 250 inlbs (20ft) not 200 like the cheaper ones so i'm using it alot for 10-18ftlb torques and using 3/8" sockets. if i was buying one only to 200 in-lbs i think maybe i'd get a 1/4" . either way as long as the range is correct.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...tan-23146.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-15...ols-85050.aspx
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eakins screwed with this post 11-12-2011 at 10:16 AM
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:08 AM   #56702
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Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
With indexed snail adjusters, just one notch too tight and a couple of big hits offroad and whoops, there goes the upper roller hardware. Not one posting of anyone without the upper roller, suffering chain derailments etc., that I've ever read / heard of...
My 07's upper was removed immediately and the lower roller, replaced with the traditional bearing equipped jobber unit.

Reminds me of the KLR crowd, that argues against upgrading the "doohickey."

996DL
no chain derailments but plenty of ripped out upper rollers & damaged frames.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:25 AM   #56703
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the more i check out that K-D, it's built the exact same way as SK and is priced the same, so i'd say they are the same just branded differently.

so these are the 2 wrenches i own. had them for years but i like to invest in quality tools to last.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-14...ools-3459.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-14...ools-3460.aspx



Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
SK has always been a solid just under $100 brand, but they seem to be out of biz. K-D looks the same however. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-28...-wrenches.aspx truth is you really need 2 wrenches to do it accurately.
one real low range to 20-25lbs and one 10ft to 80/100ftlbs or more. a wrench is not accurate at the bottom or top and so if it starts at 5lbs and you try to torque to 5lbs it will be off. DR has a few low torque bolts.

if you're on a budget buy this and this
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-11...tan-23147.aspx
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-10...ral-3t317.aspx (in lbs divide by 12 for ft)
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #56704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
whats a good torque wrench(s) to have for the dr? thanks to eakins' post i see that all bolts are under 80 ft lbs. im just starting to get somewhat proficient working on this bike, and need something soon. im an overtightener/bolt stripper
The alternator rotor bolt torque is 115.5 ft-lbs., but you shouldn't have to remove that one very frequently, if ever.

I use Armstrong 1/4 & 3/8 drives and a Proto 1/2 drive. They're high quality units.

Regards,

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Old 11-12-2011, 12:36 PM   #56705
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Originally Posted by msanna View Post
Questions on driveshaft and engine sprocket...

I'm replacing my front sprocket and going to a 520, when removing the front sprocket, I noticed a bit of play in the drive shaft.
I put it in gear and shook it forward and reverse and it has some play in it, is this normal and if so, how much?
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and noticed the same thing. There is always some driveline slack, so I measured mine. I put the bike in 5th gear (most slack), pushed the bike forward to remove the slack, marked the front of the kickstand, rolled it back to remove slack the other direction and measured distance traveled. I got 6-7/8". Would someone else let me know what theirs is? Don't push the bike hard, in 5th gear you'll turn the engine over and get a false measurement.



Quote:
Next, while installing the front sprocket, I noticed that tightening the sprocket bolts do not put the retainer tight enough to pinch the gasket/bushing between the two...are there any specs on what that spacer should be?
Mine is loose also (15t). If you put the sprocket on inside out, it will be really loose.

This is the inside of the sprocket on a 525 chain. It seems that the 520 conversion changes that, becoming the outside. In that case the cushion will fit over the sprocket shoulder and be useless. It doesn't have to be used, on a 14t it won't fit, so I leave it off.



Quote:
Finally, pulled the rear carrier out and then separated the sprocket carrier from the hub, the bushings are pretty stiff, feel more like plastic then rubber. When together there is no play, but in my pass experience, there should be some resistance putting the two together to stress the bushings a bit, is it the same case with these bikes?

Thanks
If your riding is aggressive, banging gears and bouncing off the rev limiter, fresh cushions are good preventive maintenance. If you're riding is easy commuting, fresh cushions are less important. I put a new set in this spring and they're already pretty hard at 8,000 mostly easy miles.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:10 PM   #56706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and noticed the same thing. There is always some driveline slack, so I measured mine. I put the bike in 5th gear (most slack), pushed the bike forward to remove the slack, marked the front of the kickstand, rolled it back to remove slack the other direction and measured distance traveled. I got 6-7/8". Would someone else let me know what theirs is? Don't push the bike hard, in 5th gear you'll turn the engine over and get a false measurement.



Mine is loose also (15t). If you put the sprocket on inside out, it will be really loose.

This is the inside of the sprocket on a 525 chain. It seems that the 520 conversion changes that, becoming the outside. In that case the cushion will fit over the sprocket shoulder and be useless. It doesn't have to be used, on a 14t it won't fit, so I leave it off.



If your riding is aggressive, banging gears and bouncing off the rev limiter, fresh cushions are good preventive maintenance. If you're riding is easy commuting, fresh cushions are less important. I put a new set in this spring and they're already pretty hard at 8,000 mostly easy miles.
I can't try out the slack measurement the way you described since my chain is off and rear wheel is off already, but am interested to hear from others on this. Mine has slack in the transmission as well but also has some on the driveshaft, like the teeth on the driveshaft have worn. The farther I push the sprocket back on the shaft, the less play, as in no play when pushed all the way in, but when I mount the sprocket retainer it pulls it out to where there is more play.

As far as the front sprocket, I've not heard of running the flat side of the thinner sprocket on the inside, why would you need to do that?

Also, I ride mostly off road with the on road riding strictly to get me to trails.

Thanks for this info so far, looking forward to more so I can make sure this is right!
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:18 PM   #56707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
As far as the front sprocket, I've not heard of running the flat side of the thinner sprocket on the inside, why would you need to do that?
The 520 sprockets are thinner.
The rear sprocket centreline is moved slightly toward the hub. and if you use the retainer plate and not the e-clip on the front sprocket, it'll be moved a bit toward the outside compared. It adds up to about the shoulder thickness. Unless you're using DR750 sprockets with the huge shoulder
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:04 PM   #56708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
I can't try out the slack measurement the way you described since my chain is off and rear wheel is off already, but am interested to hear from others on this. Mine has slack in the transmission as well but also has some on the driveshaft, like the teeth on the driveshaft have worn. The farther I push the sprocket back on the shaft, the less play, as in no play when pushed all the way in, but when I mount the sprocket retainer it pulls it out to where there is more play.
I've never liked the way Suzuki fastened the countershaft sprocket to the shaft, mine isn't tight either. Loose and wiggly doesn't seem like good engineering.

I used the e-clip for a while this summer, instead of the retainer ring. Allowed to self center on the shaft, the CCS ran about 3/16" in from the clip.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:23 PM   #56709
larry31
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New-Be -- Wanna-Be

I've been riding dirt/trails for over 30 years.
Mostly on a 250. First on Honda XL250's and then on a Honda NX250.

I would like to move up to a 650 for longer distance riding. I know the KLR650 is more comfortable for road etc.
It's more bulky and higher which translates into more drops off road. There is more after market "stuff" available.

The Suzuki DR650 is lower and lighter, which would be better for me when the trails get rougher.

The DR650 doesn't have as comfortable seat as the KLR, but I can modify it like I've done on my NX's.

So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance.

There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?

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Old 11-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #56710
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I notice I have this little (about an inch in diameter) free wheeling wheel(?) about two inches aft of my counter sprocket, about an inch above my chain. What does this do?(chain guide?) Do I really need it? How to remove it? It's not anywhere near contacting the chain (at rest at least) but has chain wear on it. I have read that it can cause damage to the frame.
Lyle

Disregard. Found all the answers. Don't keep the chain too tight and all should be well. I can do this.

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Old 11-12-2011, 04:45 PM   #56711
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YZ forks

I bought a USD fork setup to upgrade my DR. They are from a 04 YZ450F. I thought I could lower the forks in the trees but the forks are tapered. It appears as if there would be very little height adjusment. My internet sessions tell me the 05/06 are not tapered but every pic I find appears as if they are. I know the trees are different on 03/04 and 05/06 models. Anyone have an idea which Yammie YZ/WR uses a straight USD fork?
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:46 PM   #56712
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Larry - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=44599

I've never added 'em up, but if you're talking about a 2008 or newer KLR....I'd guess the DR might have more aftermarket stuff available since the bike has been basically the same since '96. The 2007 and older KLR had a long run and I'm sure has some aftermarket availability.

As far as the price....I don't know your area but it sounds a little high if it's bone stock. I've always been a fan of "if it's reasonable, in your budget & makes you smile..."

Happy hunting!
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:58 PM   #56713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
So I'm leaning towards the DR650.
My question is, What are the possible problems or good points, I can expect with a Dr?
Mechanical, comfort, handling etc. when compared with a KLR?
Availability of different tire threads, off road/ highway?

I'm not a real agressive rider, and like to just explore back roads. I'm more interested in a reliable bike with minimum maintiance. I can modify it for comfort and storage. I don't want to have to make major mod's for performance.

There's a 2007 DR650 with just under 5,000 miles on it, thats real clean, for around $4,000, available locally.
Body work is like new, so I don't think it's been used off road much, if at all.
Hows that sound for price?
The DR650 sounds like your bike. Better than KLR650 at everything except Interstate highways and hauling your ass + 100lbs of cargo (but 50lbs she can do!).

The DR650SE is low-maintenance, reliable, smooth, the Swiss Army knife of thumpers.

Only tire issue is the 17" rear wheel limits choices for serious dirt tires, but there are plenty of decent, DOT dirt tires available.

$4k in Canada doesn't sound too $ for a clean one, but in the US, that's a lot of $ for a 4 year old bike especially, in the North, at the end of the season.

You'll need bark-busters, case savers, a rear rack & a skid-plate, and you should be good to go.

If you buy used and it still has OEM tires (likely at 5,000), it's time for a change, and you get to choose whether you want to go more dirt or more street. Contrary to much internet wisdom, Trailwings are decent tires for road and occasional mild, off-road. You just have to decide if more dirt or more street is in your mission profile.

I am about to post a question about tires, trying like everyone else to find the perfect "does everything" tire.

Good luck and happy hunting.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:15 PM   #56714
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
I bought a USD fork setup to upgrade my DR. They are from a 04 YZ450F. I thought I could lower the forks in the trees but the forks are tapered. It appears as if there would be very little height adjusment. My internet sessions tell me the 05/06 are not tapered but every pic I find appears as if they are. I know the trees are different on 03/04 and 05/06 models. Anyone have an idea which Yammie YZ/WR uses a straight USD fork?
Spacer on the stem under the top triple. Also means you don't have to raise the bars as much.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:19 PM   #56715
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need a FRONT tire for OK road, but more off-road

need to choose a Front tire which is OK (not scary) on road, but more suited for gravel and off-road (soft conditions, sand). I would rather suffer noise and short life on-road, than have the front wash-out and scare me like the current IRC GP-1 (which is a good compormise tire, in the same vein as a Trailwing)

The current list, all priced from Motorcycle Superstore:

Michelin T63 Dual Sport Front ($60)
Pirelli Scorpion Pro All Terrain/Enduro Front ($74)
IRC TR8 Battle Rally ($49)
Pirelli MT 43 Trials Front Tire ($69)
Bridgestone ED03 Front Tire ($62)
Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Front ($71)

The Trials tires sound good, but i worry that I need to run very low pressures for optimum performance. In the front, I normally run 22 lbs on road, 15 off.

I would love some feedback. I have searched and read many dozens of posts already, but many are rear tire related. I am seeeking the best FRONT tire for mostly off-road.

Thank you.

Jon
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