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Old 11-16-2011, 07:38 AM   #56896
TrophyHunter
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Lex - speaking of shifting....I carry an extra shift lever in addition to the levers. I know it's a little much but I'm a 1-3 hour walk from a roadway on a regular basis. I'd rather have the stuff with me. I'm going to do what I did growin' up...safety wire from the shifter to the frame, etc.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:44 AM   #56897
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Heads Up

GSXR can on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:B:SS:US:1123

A bit spendy, but looks clean. (I am not affiliated with the sale.)

Cheers, matt
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:13 AM   #56898
dflow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
im at 4700 miles on a 2003 and need to take the top end apart to change a leaky head gasket, and a paper base gasket. should i bother to install new rings while i've got it apart?
Are you sure it is a leaky head gasket and not the cam shaft cover or valve covers? The rubber end plug on the right side is a common source of leaks. Mine has leaked there since I bought it 3 years ago. I may replace the thing eventually but I know of some that quit leaking on there own. Until then it is a reminder to wash off the area every time I clean the chain. It doesn't spray me with oil so I can live with it. As for new rings... why?
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:19 AM   #56899
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Blackbear? It sure looks like the part before the steps.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Depends on how it hits. I carried extra levers for a couple of years and bought into the internet wisdom of "if your running handguards your levers are safe". Dropped mine on a huge rock and my buddies heard a big snap. The big snap was my handguard and the lesser snap which nobody heard was my clutch lever. Made for an interesting day. Never again. No pic of "the" drop but this was a little earlier.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:22 AM   #56900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dflow View Post
Are you sure it is a leaky head gasket and not the cam shaft cover or valve covers? The rubber end plug on the right side is a common source of leaks. Mine has leaked there since I bought it 3 years ago. I may replace the thing eventually but I know of some that quit leaking on there own. Until then it is a reminder to wash off the area every time I clean the chain. It doesn't spray me with oil so I can live with it. As for new rings... why?
Yes im pretty sure. its coming from the front of the head gasket, right next to the exhaust port. Then after time the wind blows it across the fins and towards the back. I ordered an extra end plug for the install just in case i have problems with removal. The rings I was contemplating because of my dark oil issues, and I'll have the top end stripped anyway. Wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:29 AM   #56901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
GSXR can on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:B:SS:US:1123

A bit spendy, but looks clean. (I am not affiliated with the sale.)

Cheers, matt
That is really pricey! I ran an ad on CraigsList looking for one and got an X40F0X the next day for $50, locally. Rode over to pick it up - no shipping. Lucky.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:33 AM   #56902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
im at 4700 miles on a 2003 and need to take the top end apart to change a leaky head gasket, and a paper base gasket. should i bother to install new rings while i've got it apart?
I had some friends help me install a new BG on my 2002 with over 11,000 miles on it. We reused the stock rings. I did learn to use anaerobic sealer and not just plain silicon when you go to button things back up. Call Jesse at Kienteck and pick his brain. He is one of the go to guys when it comes to these DRs.

http://www.kientech.com/

Good Luck!

Pete
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:52 AM   #56903
dflow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
For several hours I have been trying to install the top NSU screw, with many different teqniques. It is not going in, period. the bolt wont thread through. i dont know what else to do. the threads are correct, bottom one goes in easy. there is just no possible way to install it with the clutch in the way. can i just yank the whole NSU system out of the bike? again, several hours on that bolt. it doesnt go in.
I have replaced 3 NSUs todate without issues and with the clutch in place. I replace with internal hex cap head screws so I can drive them in with a ball-tip driver. This helps in getting that hard to access top screw started and torqued even with the limited space. I also remove one old screw at a time and replace with the new screw before moving to the 2nd screw. This ensures the spring and ball stays under the NSU. Just in case I plug passages in the engine case to avoid doh moments when parts fly. BTW all 3 jobs had loose to finger tight screws when I got in there.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:57 AM   #56904
Porrick
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relays and stuff

Thanks to all who responded. I guess I should clarify.......

I am installing an HDB top clamp/guards and Vapor (all other instruments will be deleted), I want to add the following:

1) Eastern Beaver headlight harness with 2x 40A relays and push button on/off switch;
2) Dual Star heated grips controlled via WarmnSafe troller
3) Top clamp mounted cig lighter socket for RAM mounted GPS (with internal battery)

The questions:

1) Is it worth the cost to buy an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse box to run this stuff through?

2) If so, what is the purpose of the 40A relay option for the PC8? Is it necessary/helpful??

3) Would the addition of a relay on the troller make the grip heaters more effective (hot)?

4) I assume the Vapor can be run (along with an LED battery gauge) off the spare accessory plug behind the headlight cowl. Any need/value to add a switch/relay to the Vapor wiring?

Sorry to be so dense about this stuff, but I'm used to 60's Brit bikes that don't have all this crap....

TIA, Porrick
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:01 AM   #56905
dflow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Yes im pretty sure. its coming from the front of the head gasket, right next to the exhaust port. Then after time the wind blows it across the fins and towards the back. I ordered an extra end plug for the install just in case i have problems with removal. The rings I was contemplating because of my dark oil issues, and I'll have the top end stripped anyway. Wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not.
Is the leak souce above the exhaust header or below? Above is the cover, below the head. A leakdown or compression test will tell you if your rings/valves are an issue. When you say your oil is black just how black do you mean?
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:55 AM   #56906
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
oil and filter has been changed every 200 miles since purchased 1000 miles ago..
why? i ride around 350mi/week, oil changes at 3000mi.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
I have a spare clutch and brake lever in my saddlebags all the time...
the OP was asking about brake pads and chains. a little heavier than a pair of levers and could be shipped or purchased anywhere in the world. space & weight being a premium on around the world trips, why waste?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
1) Is it worth the cost to buy an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse box to run this stuff through?
2) If so, what is the purpose of the 40A relay option for the PC8? Is it necessary/helpful??
3) Would the addition of a relay on the troller make the grip heaters more effective (hot)?
4) I assume the Vapor can be run (along with an LED battery gauge) off the spare accessory plug behind the headlight cowl. Any need/value to add a switch/relay to the Vapor wiring?...
you dont need 8 fused ports unless you're adding ALOT more farkles to your handlebars, this will all add much more weight. a 40A relay is unnecessary, 20A is plenty. grip heaters are most effective without anything to hinder power flow (AMPS). mine are simply wired either ON/OFF by toggle.

yes the vapor can run off the brown accessory plug behind the cowl. but if you're adding fused ports and relays, why not wire it in to that source?

also, the HDB clamp does not fit a cig lighter port. it fits an 18mm dia Powerlet port, you'll need an adapter for cig.

here's my HDB clamp/vapor/etc:

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Old 11-16-2011, 10:01 AM   #56907
vintagespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
Because It seems if I am running this lean when it should be rich...
you're probably way to rich and drowning it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
...As in, don't put red OR blue locktite on your spark plugs....
dangit! NOW you tell me. :( i just green lock-tighted my seat bolts and case cover bolts. you know, just to be sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Oil turning black is a symptom of not changing it frequently enough...
or a slipping clutch.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:10 AM   #56908
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
OK, this is the second or third time I've read of Motolab selling carb parts, yet I see no info on Motolab's postings relative to retail sales.

Although I have no need for carb parts now, nor have I had such a need in the past decade or so, I like to add to my list of resources, and so, Motolab, what do you sell and what services do you offer (other than your free advice on this thread, which is much appreciated)?

TIA,
Lex
Hello Lex,

Have a look at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:26 AM   #56909
MountaineerWV
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Colombia

Does anyone have any suggestions for solid mechanics or shops for the DR650 in Cartagena or Medellin, Colombia? I believe the DR is the bike of choice for the police there?

I'm about to do some maintenance that I've never done before...and in the event that I screw something up I would like to have reputable mechanic that I can go to for help.

Thanks,
James
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:45 AM   #56910
newride
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Location: San Fran
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front wheel axle

Okay, I might just have a stubborn axle, but I am having trouble getting it off. Took off the 4, 10mm nuts and it is my understanding that the axle comes off just like any other bolt? (19mm) Maybe it is just stuck. Any tricks I am missing?
Thanks all.
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