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Old 11-16-2011, 05:39 PM   #56926
TRAVELGUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
You'd be amazed how hard it can be to get stuff when you're not in the US or Europe and you have no home address.

DHL might promise to get stuff to you in 3-5 days, but it all stops at the country's border in the customs office and sits until they get to it. Then you might find that new parts are charged a 100% duty (or more). So your $100 dollar chain costs you $200 + shipping and you sit in your hotel for 2-3 weeks without transportation waiting for it to clear.

This sounds extreme sitting at our computers in the US where we can easily get things delivered in 3 days, but there are many ride reports with people lamenting that they didn't bring a spare chain, or sprocket, or carry spare tires with them.

As far as purchasing parts anywhere in the world, I haven't been everywhere, but I've been a lot of places where I found that was not possible.


...........shu
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #56927
Stringer99
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I just found an engine shop a half mile away to do the deglaze and cross hatch for $12! Now I need to order a new piston and rings. OEM or JE ? Any thoughts?

Whats the best way to remove carbon deposits in engine?

And just a heads up. Turns out the absence of an exposed rivet in your base gasket does NOT guarentee your base gasket is paper. Mine has no rivets and was made of metal with a thin rubberized coating.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:37 PM   #56928
vnp514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
what is the trick to get the cylinder head cover off? i removed the 12 bolts holding it (this includes the two in the inspection area). its like its welded on. i dont want to beat on it any harder for fear of breaking something.
Did you remove the valve covers? There are two bolts you have to remove there before you can take the head off(maybe this is the "inspection area"?). There are also two bolts on the outside of the head-1 front and one to the rear.

Pete
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:07 PM   #56929
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I think you have a Nikisil cylinder coating and doing a hone to it can ruin it. Best to scuff it with some scotchbrite pad and call it good.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:16 PM   #56930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnp514 View Post
Did you remove the valve covers? There are two bolts you have to remove there before you can take the head off(maybe this is the "inspection area"?). There are also two bolts on the outside of the head-1 front and one to the rear.Pete
Yes all was removed. The sealant they used on the head cover had a kung fu grip on the cylinder head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars View Post
I think you have a Nikisil cylinder coating and doing a hone to it can ruin it. Best to scuff it with some scotchbrite pad and call it good.
I have heard (read) the deglaze and cross hatch was the way to go. Am I wrong? Can anyone else chime in here? Thanks.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #56931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
I have heard (read) the deglaze and cross hatch was the way to go. Am I wrong? Can anyone else chime in here? Thanks.
Link

"What if my cylinder is Nikasil Coated?
Nikasil coated cylinders are more delicate than the iron bores typically used with Flex-Hones®. Nikasil is an electroplated oleophilic nickel matrix silicon carbide coating that allows the use of aluminum cylinder walls without a steel sleeve. This coating reduces friction and wear. Great advantages come with the use of Nikasil on coated aluminum blocks or jugs, one of them is the increased heat removal from the piston, pin and ring assemblies. The other advantage is the tighter tolerances can be achieved. Most Nikasil coatings are 0.0003" to 0.0008". To deglaze and freshen up the bore walls you must use an aluminum oxide material based hone. This softer material works well with the hard walls. Use the hone like described above with the exception of much less rotations. Run the hone for 10-12 rotations in the bore and inspect. If the overall cylinder looks touched then you are done and remove the tool."
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:25 PM   #56932
doug s.
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low fender for s-m set up

hi all,

i finally got rid of the upper fender "wing" on my 'tarded dr650 w/usd rm forks. besides catching air, the original fender did little to keep mud/water off me and the bike. i have not yet taken a test ride, but i have no reason to believe it will be nothing but an improvement, besides looking better. the fender was from an '08-'09 yamaha yzf r6; cost me $57 shipped from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-YZF-R...-/180644376284

i had to do a little filing at the edges where the fender is adjacent to the forks, to eliminate any possibility of rubbing. i filed about a 3/4" radius about 1/4" deep into the fenders at each side, the hole was about 2" long, from the top of the fender, down the sides. at that point, the sides are no longer touching the forks. i had to be patient, measuring and marking locations, making sure i had the right location to mount the fender to the fork guards, so everything was aligned/no rubbing/etc., before drilling the holes. fender is secured to the fork guards w/simple relatively decent-sized zip-ties. not a perfect color match, bit it's close enough for me, and i did no painting. and the hole on the left side of the fender was perfect for routing of the vapor trail-tech speedo cable...

pic showing where holes were cut, and what part of the fender i used to mark w/fine-line magic marker onto the fork guards a line and a point (both sides), so i could drill the holes, once the fork guards were pulled off the bike:


before:


after:




i am wery happy w/how it turned out.

doug s.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:39 PM   #56933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
I have heard (read) the deglaze and cross hatch was the way to go. Am I wrong? Can anyone else chime in here? Thanks.
Apparently there are two schools of thought on this. Go back to post 56653 and read what mongle (who I think does rebuilds for a living) says. With the right equipment a very light honing/deglaze seems to be acceptable. So make sure your shop is up to speed on the suzuki cylinder and the proper procedure if you decide to have it honed.

There seems to even be disagreement on what type of hone to use with these cylinders (hard vs soft), so a little more research might be in order.

Good luck!

Rumlover screwed with this post 11-16-2011 at 08:03 PM
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:45 PM   #56934
epix1718
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Picked up another DR650 but the starter seems to be be shot? Previous owner said they tried to diagnose the problem and voltage stops at the starter. Anyone know a good source to pick up a new starter or can the original starter be serviced/repaired? Bike is a 97 with 9000 miles on it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:24 PM   #56935
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
Thanks!

Hey guys I've got this engine apart, guess im going to go OEM piston and rings with a professional deglaze/cross hatch. But how do I clean up the head like this? Sure would like everything brand new looking when I start to bolt her together.


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Old 11-16-2011, 08:41 PM   #56936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Thanks!

Hey guys I've got this engine apart, guess im going to go OEM piston and rings with a professional deglaze/cross hatch. But how do I clean up the head like this? Sure would like everything brand new looking when I start to bolt her together.
how many miles on the motor?
if less than 25k, why waste the time effort & $?
gasket it & ride on
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:49 PM   #56937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Check the gap at the bottom of ring travel, it most likely has the smallest, least worn diameter. The problem is too tight, not too loose. As the cylinder heats and expands, the gap gets smaller. If the gap is too small the ring will bind/seize in the cylinder, with really bad results.


http://www.macdizzy.com/1989jhopup.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The gap would get larger as the cylinder heats and expands. I think the rings get hot enough where the cylinder expanding away from the rings is not enough to compensate for how much the rings grow.

Regards,

Derek
I'm going to vote with ER70S. The gap gets smaller at higher engine temps. I used some Keith Black hypereutectic pistons on a V8 I built and they call for a huge gap on the top ring because the top ring groove is closer to the top of the piston than most pistons. I think it was .035 gap for the top ring on a 4 1/8 inch piston. I had to grind a lot off the top rings to arrive at that spec. They said if you didn't run that large of a gap the rings would expand and the ends would butt together and sieze/break ring lands, etc.

And of course the aluminum piston expands in the bore as it heats up which also makes the ring gap smaller.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:57 PM   #56938
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
how many miles on the motor?
if less than 25k, why waste the time effort & $?
gasket it & ride on

4700 miles. what all is involved?
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:06 PM   #56939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
4700 miles. what all is involved?
basically a new motor, barely broken in.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:13 PM   #56940
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
I'm going to vote with ER70S. The gap gets smaller at higher engine temps.
You may want to re-read. I didn't disagree.
Quote:
And of course the aluminum piston expands in the bore as it heats up which also makes the ring gap smaller.
The piston expanding does not make the ring gap smaller.

Regards,

Derek
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