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Old 11-16-2011, 11:26 AM   #56926
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Put the 10mm nuts and cap back on, finger tight. This keeps the forks from twisting while getting the axle loose. Use a box end wrench or socket, an open ended wrench only uses two flats on the head. I use the one in the tool kit.

Checking the ring end gap (at the bottom of the cylinder), will give you a good idea on how worn they may be. 4700 miles is hardly broken in. New rings are $40.

Oil looking like chocolate milk sounds like water in the oil, not likely on an air/oil cooled bike. Can you post a pic of the oil, next oil change?
how do i check the ring end gap? thanks.

oil looks exactly like chocolate milk. identical to the chocolate river gustav fell into in the original willy wonka.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:50 AM   #56927
newride
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Not that I recommend it, but my dust seal has 28,000 miles on it.
Yeah mine has a chunk missing out of it. I would say last person who put the tire on jammed it with the spacer and tore a chunk out of it.

Does the DR really need the front wheel balanced after mounting? I mean, it is a dirt bike kind of?
Honda wanted $40.00 to mount and balance the tire when I brought the wheel in. I walked out. I can probably mount it myself, will it make a huge difference if I don't have it balanced?
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:55 AM   #56928
ER70S-2
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Check the gap at the bottom of ring travel, it most likely has the smallest, least worn diameter. The problem is too tight, not too loose. As the cylinder heats and expands, the gap gets smaller. If the gap is too small the ring will bind/seize in the cylinder, with really bad results.

Don't use anything metal to scrape gaskets off (no 3M pads either). It could be expensive.

This is for 2 strokes, hence the holes in the cylinder wall.

http://www.macdizzy.com/1989jhopup.htm
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:19 PM   #56929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Yeah mine has a chunk missing out of it. I would say last person who put the tire on jammed it with the spacer and tore a chunk out of it.
Yep, you need a new seal.

Quote:
Does the DR really need the front wheel balanced after mounting? I mean, it is a dirt bike kind of?
Honda wanted $40.00 to mount and balance the tire when I brought the wheel in. I walked out. I can probably mount it myself, will it make a huge difference if I don't have it balanced?
On balancing, this is split about 50-50, you get to choose. I do cause I enjoy the garage time. I used to use 1/8" solid core solder 8" long, wrapped around the spokes, as many as needed, sometimes 4 or 5. Problem is, the new lead free solder is much stiffer and hard on the fingers. So I bought a set of reuseable weights from Aerostitch, but they're $35 for the set IIRC.

How fast you ride will matter most, and the individual tire balance. If the bike shakes too much, balance the tire.

I've always changed my own tires for the simple reason that I want to be fresh with the process. I've had three flats over the years while riding, I was able to fix them on the ride and continue.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:22 PM   #56930
Porrick
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Thanks for the info Vintagespeed. I have the same top clamp as you, but the older one with the Powerlet holes on the bottom and switches up top. Looking forward to putting it all together.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
why? i ride around 350mi/week, oil changes at 3000mi.



the OP was asking about brake pads and chains. a little heavier than a pair of levers and could be shipped or purchased anywhere in the world. space & weight being a premium on around the world trips, why waste?



you dont need 8 fused ports unless you're adding ALOT more farkles to your handlebars, this will all add much more weight. a 40A relay is unnecessary, 20A is plenty. grip heaters are most effective without anything to hinder power flow (AMPS). mine are simply wired either ON/OFF by toggle.

yes the vapor can run off the brown accessory plug behind the cowl. but if you're adding fused ports and relays, why not wire it in to that source?

also, the HDB clamp does not fit a cig lighter port. it fits an 18mm dia Powerlet port, you'll need an adapter for cig.

here's my HDB clamp/vapor/etc:

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Old 11-16-2011, 12:24 PM   #56931
Stringer99
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what is the trick to get the cylinder head cover off? i removed the 12 bolts holding it (this includes the two in the inspection area). its like its welded on. i dont want to beat on it any harder for fear of breaking something.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #56932
Stringer99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Check the gap at the bottom of ring travel, it most likely has the smallest, least worn diameter. The problem is too tight, not too loose. As the cylinder heats and expands, the gap gets smaller. If the gap is too small the ring will bind/seize in the cylinder, with really bad results.

Don't use anything metal to scrape gaskets off (no 3M pads either). It could be expensive.

This is for 2 strokes, hence the holes in the cylinder wall.

http://www.macdizzy.com/1989jhopup.htm
i had to use razor blades for all gasket removal. theres no other way to do it. gasket remover didnt work. ive spent an entire day so far removing gasket material.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:34 PM   #56933
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Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
what is the trick to get the cylinder head cover off? i removed the 12 bolts holding it (this includes the two in the inspection area). its like its welded on. i dont want to beat on it any harder for fear of breaking something.
I hope you have a manual. That would have been my first purchase for anything more then an oil change.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:36 PM   #56934
Stringer99
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I hope you have a manual. That would have been my first purchase for anything more then an oil change.
theres a manual online. after bolt removal it says "remove cover"

its not that easy
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:46 PM   #56935
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i got the c over off. took a long screwdriver and put it through the top engine mount and yanked up.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:15 PM   #56936
Rusty Rocket
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[QUOTE=Stringer99;17316915]how do i check the ring end gap? thanks.

/QUOTE]


Put a ring in the cylinder bore and flip the piston upside down and use it to press the ring down about half the distance of the height of the piston. That way it's level in the bore. Then use a feeler gauge to find out how big the space is between the ends of the rings. (ring gap) Repeat for the other ring.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:46 PM   #56937
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
As the cylinder heats and expands, the gap gets smaller. If the gap is too small the ring will bind/seize in the cylinder, with really bad results.
The gap would get larger as the cylinder heats and expands. I think the rings get hot enough where the cylinder expanding away from the rings is not enough to compensate for how much the rings grow.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:50 PM   #56938
shu
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balancing wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Does the DR really need the front wheel balanced after mounting? I mean, it is a dirt bike kind of?
Honda wanted $40.00 to mount and balance the tire when I brought the wheel in. I walked out. I can probably mount it myself, will it make a huge difference if I don't have it balanced?
I balance mine- a couple of times my bike started to feel 'bouncy' to me and balancing the front wheel settled it down.

If you figure the cost for a dealer mount and balance at $35 dollars, 3 tire changes would pay for a Marc Parnes balancer, which is very responsive and simple to use ( I just use mine on top of a pair of cinder blocks.)

http://www.marcparnes.com/BMW_Motorc...l_Balancer.htm

(I don't know Marc Parnes but I like his balancer.)

..........shu
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Old 11-16-2011, 02:07 PM   #56939
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
If you figure the cost for a dealer mount and balance at $35 dollars, 3 tire changes would pay for a Marc Parnes balancer, which is very responsive and simple to use ( I just use mine on top of a pair of cinder blocks.)
+1

Lead fishing weights from Cabela's - dirt cheap.

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Old 11-16-2011, 02:10 PM   #56940
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post


the OP was asking about brake pads and chains. a little heavier than a pair of levers and could be shipped or purchased anywhere in the world. space & weight being a premium on around the world trips, why waste?

You'd be amazed how hard it can be to get stuff when you're not in the US or Europe and you have no home address.

DHL might promise to get stuff to you in 3-5 days, but it all stops at the country's border in the customs office and sits until they get to it. Then you might find that new parts are charged a 100% duty (or more). So your $100 dollar chain costs you $200 + shipping and you sit in your hotel for 2-3 weeks without transportation waiting for it to clear.

This sounds extreme sitting at our computers in the US where we can easily get things delivered in 3 days, but there are many ride reports with people lamenting that they didn't bring a spare chain, or sprocket, or carry spare tires with them.

As far as purchasing parts anywhere in the world, I haven't been everywhere, but I've been a lot of places where I found that was not possible.


...........shu
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