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Old 11-16-2011, 07:39 PM   #56926
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
I have heard (read) the deglaze and cross hatch was the way to go. Am I wrong? Can anyone else chime in here? Thanks.
Apparently there are two schools of thought on this. Go back to post 56653 and read what mongle (who I think does rebuilds for a living) says. With the right equipment a very light honing/deglaze seems to be acceptable. So make sure your shop is up to speed on the suzuki cylinder and the proper procedure if you decide to have it honed.

There seems to even be disagreement on what type of hone to use with these cylinders (hard vs soft), so a little more research might be in order.

Good luck!

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Old 11-16-2011, 07:45 PM   #56927
epix1718
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Picked up another DR650 but the starter seems to be be shot? Previous owner said they tried to diagnose the problem and voltage stops at the starter. Anyone know a good source to pick up a new starter or can the original starter be serviced/repaired? Bike is a 97 with 9000 miles on it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:24 PM   #56928
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Tuna View Post
Thanks!

Hey guys I've got this engine apart, guess im going to go OEM piston and rings with a professional deglaze/cross hatch. But how do I clean up the head like this? Sure would like everything brand new looking when I start to bolt her together.


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Old 11-16-2011, 08:41 PM   #56929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Thanks!

Hey guys I've got this engine apart, guess im going to go OEM piston and rings with a professional deglaze/cross hatch. But how do I clean up the head like this? Sure would like everything brand new looking when I start to bolt her together.
how many miles on the motor?
if less than 25k, why waste the time effort & $?
gasket it & ride on
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:49 PM   #56930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Check the gap at the bottom of ring travel, it most likely has the smallest, least worn diameter. The problem is too tight, not too loose. As the cylinder heats and expands, the gap gets smaller. If the gap is too small the ring will bind/seize in the cylinder, with really bad results.


http://www.macdizzy.com/1989jhopup.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
The gap would get larger as the cylinder heats and expands. I think the rings get hot enough where the cylinder expanding away from the rings is not enough to compensate for how much the rings grow.

Regards,

Derek
I'm going to vote with ER70S. The gap gets smaller at higher engine temps. I used some Keith Black hypereutectic pistons on a V8 I built and they call for a huge gap on the top ring because the top ring groove is closer to the top of the piston than most pistons. I think it was .035 gap for the top ring on a 4 1/8 inch piston. I had to grind a lot off the top rings to arrive at that spec. They said if you didn't run that large of a gap the rings would expand and the ends would butt together and sieze/break ring lands, etc.

And of course the aluminum piston expands in the bore as it heats up which also makes the ring gap smaller.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:57 PM   #56931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
how many miles on the motor?
if less than 25k, why waste the time effort & $?
gasket it & ride on

4700 miles. what all is involved?
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:06 PM   #56932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
4700 miles. what all is involved?
basically a new motor, barely broken in.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:13 PM   #56933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
I'm going to vote with ER70S. The gap gets smaller at higher engine temps.
You may want to re-read. I didn't disagree.
Quote:
And of course the aluminum piston expands in the bore as it heats up which also makes the ring gap smaller.
The piston expanding does not make the ring gap smaller.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:57 PM   #56934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
You may want to re-read. I didn't disagree.
OK
The piston expanding does not make the ring gap smaller.
Now that I think about it you are probably right. There is clearance behind the ring at the bottom of the ring groove also.


Regards,

Derek
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:29 AM   #56935
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
And just a heads up. Turns out the absence of an exposed rivet in your base gasket does NOT guarentee your base gasket is paper. Mine has no rivets and was made of metal with a thin rubberized coating.
What year bike?
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:07 AM   #56936
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
after:



i am wery happy w/how it turned out.

doug s.
As well you should be Doug. That is beautiful!
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:47 AM   #56937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l
As well you should be Doug. That is beautiful!
+1, awesome work doug, nicely done.
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:57 AM   #56938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
What year bike?
2003

Anyone know how to clean up an engine and remove all carbon? thanks.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:26 AM   #56939
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There are a number of ways; however, aluminum is less heat tolerant than cast iron. You can bake it (lower temps, less time than cast), you can soak/spray it, you can use a soda blast, etc. Honestly, I' probably use soap and water with a household plastic scrub brush if I were doing it myself since the head doesn't look very bad. Also, any machine shop will be able to do it for you for a nominal charge.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:55 AM   #56940
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I'm working on the exact same thing at the moment but mine has a LOT more miles on it and compression issues.

It you have one nearby, you can drop off the fully disassembled head to an engine shop and they can hot soak it.

It also depends on what equipment you have available. If you have blasting equipment, then after an initial cleaning, soda blasting would be ideal but you could also use a VERY mild glass bead or walnut shell. I actually use some completely worn out (almost powdered dust) glass bead for stuff like this BUT make sure all valve stem openings are completely blocked off. Afterwards Wash the living tar out of it. Use a dishwasher (twice) if you're single or your wife is out of town. Seriously.

If you don't have access to a cabinet then chemicals (carb cleaner, brake cleaner, all the nasty crap. etc) brass brushes and patience. DO NOT damage the valve seats. Re lap them (look it up) when you're done for good measure.

Oh and be sure to keep track of what valve went where. Yes it matters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
Thanks!

Hey guys I've got this engine apart, guess im going to go OEM piston and rings with a professional deglaze/cross hatch. But how do I clean up the head like this? Sure would like everything brand new looking when I start to bolt her together.


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