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Old 11-29-2011, 05:43 PM   #57421
epix1718
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan/Indiana border
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Does anyone have a stock close up photo of their stock DR foot pegs? Took mine apart, painted them. Kind of forgot exactly how they sit on the bike. I think I have it, but I am losing my mind thinking about it.
Mahalo,
Don't have a pic on the bike but here is a diagram that may help
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:03 PM   #57422
newride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Don't have a pic on the bike but here is a diagram that may help
Thank you brother. yes it surely does.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:33 PM   #57423
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
More likely a little bit of dirt or debris is stuck in the float valve.
Thanks for all the quick replies, I'm going to keep an eye on it. Since I don't have a fuel filter, I think it time to get one. If the problem persists, I'll get in there to reset the float height.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:53 PM   #57424
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Ughh.. The worst kind of problem... I went out to the bike after it cooled and bit and tried to simulate the problem again... No luck
Probably a bit of crud in the needle jet in the float bowl. I would drain the float bowl, re-fill, drain again. Hopefully this will clear any crud out.

If engine is dying at idle ... try setting the fuel/air pilot screw, then re-set idle.
1. Set idle very low after bike is fully warmed.
2. Using Pilot fuel-air screw ... adjust for smooth and highest idle ... then adjust IN (lean) just a hair.
3. Now set Idle to desired RPM (DR650 seems to like around 1300 to 1400)
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:40 PM   #57425
nupit
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Spring rate

I purchased a 08 DR 650 the other day. Its stock except for some small dirtbagz side bags and a big parabellum windscreen ( soon to be in the flea market). I want to install stiffer springs front and rear. On the race tech website if I search for 225 lbs, it gives me rates of 8.3 rear and .70 fork. Does that seem correct? Seems like it will be stiff....any help would be appreciated ... thanks
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:44 PM   #57426
ShadyRascal
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Location: the Root, Western Montana
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Call Jesse at Kientech. He'll ask your weight and details, and recommend the correct springs. Good guy and tell him Steve from Hamilton sent you.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:45 PM   #57427
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Thanks for the info...I'll do that
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:44 PM   #57428
vicster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nupit View Post
I purchased a 08 DR 650 the other day. Its stock except for some small dirtbagz side bags and a big parabellum windscreen ( soon to be in the flea market). I want to install stiffer springs front and rear. On the race tech website if I search for 225 lbs, it gives me rates of 8.3 rear and .70 fork. Does that seem correct? Seems like it will be stiff....any help would be appreciated ... thanks
I'm 227# nekkid. I went with the Race Tech rebuild rear shock kit with 8.6 rear spring - love it! I tried Iniminators with .05 springs in the front. Worked really well loaded for touring on rough pavement. Didn't work for me without the touring load on pavement and didn't work on rocky off road. Too stiff. I've since gone back to stock springs and Intiminators. That combo works well on the pavement and rough rocky offroad. The .05 may work for high speed jumps,etc., but not in my real world.
YMMV
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:51 PM   #57429
Mercenary
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Man....should start a weight loss thread.....

I'm WELL north of 300 with all the gear and the suspension upgrade is next on the list after the seat. What can I do to my stock suspension right now to prevent it from bottoming out terribly and have it handle somewhat decently on the road? I fully realise that I won't get any high performance out of the stock suspension but some tips for the mean time would be greatly appreciated.....
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:25 PM   #57430
Garak
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Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
Man....should start a weight loss thread.....
I'm WELL north of 300 with all the gear and the suspension upgrade is next on the list after the seat. What can I do to my stock suspension right now to prevent it from bottoming out terribly and have it handle somewhat decently on the road? I fully realise that I won't get any high performance out of the stock suspension but some tips for the mean time would be greatly appreciated.....
With the stock suspension, there probably isn't a lot you can do to avoid bottoming. You can crank up preload, which will raise your ride height, but if the spring rate is too soft, it's too soft and you'll bottom all the same. That having been said, springs are pretty cheap (< $250 all around), and easy to install.
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Garak screwed with this post 11-30-2011 at 12:40 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:29 PM   #57431
ER70S-2
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Newride:
Just gently remove that bearing, like you were going to change it. Don't remove it completely, just until what's remaining of the old seal falls out and you can gently tap the bearing back in. And you won't damage the seal on the bearing.
If you didn't know how to change the bearings, now would be a good time to learn.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:01 AM   #57432
greer
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Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
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Regarding the Procycle stator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Mine should arrive any day. I'll let you know.
Any word yet? Thanks

Sarah
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:17 AM   #57433
petie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
More likely a little bit of dirt or debris is stuck in the float valve.
My tm40 has just done the same thing. I drained the float and hooked it back up, still did it. Pulled the lost bowl off, lotsa crap, cleaned and hooked up and still did it! Flushed thefuel inlet with heaps of carby cleaner, lots of hit came out. Hooked back up and all ok! New bike to me, first mod is a fuel filter! Sounds like this is your problem to...?
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:45 AM   #57434
newride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Newride:
Just gently remove that bearing, like you were going to change it. Don't remove it completely, just until what's remaining of the old seal falls out and you can gently tap the bearing back in. And you won't damage the seal on the bearing.
If you didn't know how to change the bearings, now would be a good time to learn.
all good, got the metal seal out with no damage to bearing. Not going to get into messing with bearings this time around.
Thanks for all your help.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:27 AM   #57435
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