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Old 11-30-2011, 02:14 PM   #57481
WilderRider
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Denver, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Not sure what you mean by "longer trip". If you intend to leave the USA and be on the road for months ... or more, then I would attend to some of these bearings in advance, as you suggest.
It is out of the country. At a minimum Panama and maybe all the way to TDF. So I may be putting on some real miles out of the country.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:25 PM   #57482
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
i ordered moose bearings front/rear. is it going to be ok ya think, or is this a big no-no?

also which is better for stock engines, NGK single or dual electrodes?

TIA!
The dual earths last a bit longer, and theoretically give a better spark. I have used them in my DR and the Iridiums and can't pick the difference. They did seem to get the engine running a little easier and maybe run a bit smoother when first fitted, but the stock plugs needed replacing and I'm sure stock plugs would have been similar, just not last as long. On NGK Iridiums at the moment and don't think about them.

My old Mazda rotary was good on NGK dual earths, (R100 with 5 spd 12A , my first cage and owned for 17 years FWIW), but not the single earths. With the DR twin plugs, I doubt it really matters. Like others have said, the Iridiums will last longer. In fact I used to get twin earh NGK platinums for the rotary for best results. They were hard on plugs. My old ZX9R had twin earth plugs stock, and ran about the same on single earth iridiums. But they did last twice as long.

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Old 11-30-2011, 03:07 PM   #57483
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
Hi all:

Just about finished installing my HBD guard/top clamp setup and Vapor (gonna be so sweet!) --but I have a quick question. I went with the tach installation option of feeding the red wire into the pos side of the coil connection, and the Vapor directions then suggest a frame bolt connection for the ground side. Any reason I can't just use the ground on the other side of the coil connection? Seems like it would be cleaner to me to have both wires together.....

TIA, Porrick

Because the ground side is the side the coil that triggers the coil to fire. If you run both there you could accidently get about 25K volts at the wrong time..
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:09 PM   #57484
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilderRider View Post
It is out of the country. At a minimum Panama and maybe all the way to TDF. So I may be putting on some real miles out of the country.
Wow! Congrats on going for the major Adventure with a capital A!

You'll probably rack up 12K to 15K just to Panama. Another 15K to TDF. Then you've got to get home. So anything could (and will) happen along the way . All new bearings couldn't hurt but it is a bit of work, but once done you're probably OK for at least another 30K miles minimum. Choice is yours.

I would for sure pull out the swingarm bolt and have a look see and feel the bearings, see how they are. Perhaps just a cleaning/re-grease would do? That's up to you and a lot depends on your history with this bike. Mine has been beat on a bit, so if me, I'd change most of them out for new.

But reports here indicate not many swing arm bearing problems. (please correct me if I'm wrong ... but I don't remember any reports on these)
Wheel bearings have failed on a few DR's and rear hubb bearings too. A few Head bearings maybe?

I keep expecting my wheel bearings to fail .... but they just keep rolling along, smooth as glass. But 3rd gear whines like ADV moderator.

Your biggest headaches down South will be Tires ... but I'm sure you know that. One other thing not talked about much is oil. Good US Made Oil is hard to find in S. America and imported oil is off the charts expensive. A quart of US made Mobil One synthetic was $18 in a Mexican Wal-Mart. Not even MC specific. Many riders just run what oil is available. This, more than anything else, worries me a bit. But frequent changes can de-stress things I suppose. Not all oil is equal!

One other very common amateur screw up on the road are chains and sprockets. So so many stories of doom due to ignorance and neglect of these critical and often ignored elements.

It makes you see why when on the road guys like shaft drive. You can live in a "Fool's Paradise" until the day the shaft, bearing or U-Joint fails. Then you're screwed! (I'll take my chances with a chain thanks!)

I would carry a couple front sprockets and at least one rear. A good DID X ring should go 25K miles with any luck ... so just a master link, not a complete chain.

Colombia seems to be the best place to do a major service. Parts and talent available in several cities there, tires too. Good luck on the planning.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:14 PM   #57485
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
Hi all:

I went with the tach installation option of feeding the red wire into the pos side of the coil connection, and the Vapor directions then suggest a frame bolt connection for the ground side. Any reason I can't just use the ground on the other side of the coil connection? Seems like it would be cleaner to me to have both wires together.....

TIA, Porrick
There is the possibility the ECU switches the coil via the negative so it is not a continuous ground.

The positive like other Suzuki's is then live full time.
That then suggests the coil could be powered directly from the battery via a relay powered up by the original coil positive wire avoiding the oem loom.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:40 PM   #57486
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Earth

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porrick View Post
Hi all:

Just about finished installing my HBD guard/top clamp setup and Vapor (gonna be so sweet!) --but I have a quick question. I went with the tach installation option of feeding the red wire into the pos side of the coil connection, and the Vapor directions then suggest a frame bolt connection for the ground side. Any reason I can't just use the ground on the other side of the coil connection? Seems like it would be cleaner to me to have both wires together.....

TIA, Porrick
I ran mine to the spare connector behind cowling which also carrys the earth for my 12 volt plug. The power feed for the vapor is into the spade connector to coil
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:48 PM   #57487
jlovett11211
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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First ADV Post

I bought a 1993 DR650 this summer from a good friend. I couldn't really afford it but after he pointed me to this forum, I couldn't really resist it! I've been lurking for months now, learning and tweaking my DR. As it's getting cold in Pittsburgh and I'm commuting every day the wealth of knowledge here has come in handy! I'm going to start posting rides, tweaks and reviews but I figured the first post should be in the forum that sold me on the best vehicle I've ever owned!





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Old 11-30-2011, 05:53 PM   #57488
Porrick
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Location: Maryland
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Vapor tach ground

Hey thanks a lot to those that replied! Will look for a solid ground and stay away from the coil neg. Will post some pics and a description when I finish the mods. Porrick
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:23 PM   #57489
ThomasVolomitz
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Well put together '93. Looks very practical for commuting.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:34 PM   #57490
chile biker
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Question no spark

Hola guys,

after reading here for quite some time, I have my first question to you guys.

I bought an 2005 DR 650 SE in very bad condition and now I am trying to get it running before I do more repairs and upgrades.

OK. I have no spark.

The CDI (nearly new) and the coil are working. Sidestandswitch and clutchswitch are out and the wires are conected. The starter motor turns the engine, the valves are adjusted to specs, the alternator has resistences between the yellow cables of 1,1 Ohm, I guess that means the alternator is ok. The battery is newly charged.

The spark plugs are still the old ones, as I dont have new now, but hopefully tomorrow afternoon. But both spark plugs faulty?

Where else would you start looking for the problem?

Greetings from Chile
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:41 PM   #57491
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Cool2 Welcome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlovett11211 View Post
I bought a 1993 DR650 this summer from a good friend. I couldn't really afford it but after he pointed me to this forum, I couldn't really resist it! I've been lurking for months now, learning and tweaking my DR. As it's getting cold in Pittsburgh and I'm commuting every day the wealth of knowledge here has come in handy! I'm going to start posting rides, tweaks and reviews but I figured the first post should be in the forum that sold me on the best vehicle I've ever owned!




Good clean bike and a happy new owner.
Do I get to be the first to welcome you to the asylum?
You will have great fun riding your new machine.

One thing though, the pre '96 DR650 is completely different from the '96 and newer bikes.
Here is the thread for pre '96:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dr650

That is where you would want to ask any questions about your bike so you get accurate responses.

This thread is great for all the words of wisdom in general....
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:09 PM   #57492
Porrick
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Maryland
Oddometer: 99
Has the ignition switch been moved/modified?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chile biker View Post
Hola guys,

after reading here for quite some time, I have my first question to you guys.

I bought an 2005 DR 650 SE in very bad condition and now I am trying to get it running before I do more repairs and upgrades.

OK. I have no spark.

The CDI (nearly new) and the coil are working. Sidestandswitch and clutchswitch are out and the wires are conected. The starter motor turns the engine, the valves are adjusted to specs, the alternator has resistences between the yellow cables of 1,1 Ohm, I guess that means the alternator is ok. The battery is newly charged.

The spark plugs are still the old ones, as I dont have new now, but hopefully tomorrow afternoon. But both spark plugs faulty?

Where else would you start looking for the problem?

Greetings from Chile
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:32 PM   #57493
DirtyGertie
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 2
TM-40 Carb

I've just fitted a new TM-40 carb from Pro-Cycle in the US, bought mail-order. Fitted as per their instructions, it works perfectly. No more flat spots, better economy (5.2l/100km instead of 7.1!), and no more rich cuts when backing off from full throttle. Much, much improved. Does anyone have any experience of adjusting clip height for mixture fine tuning? I suspect I'm still running it just a bit rich, but it isn't bad. I've got a STAINTUNE exhaust, K&N air filter, and I've cut the top of the air box out as per Procycle's pattern. Noisy, but it goes really well.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:59 PM   #57494
Garak
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chile biker View Post
The spark plugs are still the old ones, as I dont have new now, but hopefully tomorrow afternoon. But both spark plugs faulty?
Where else would you start looking for the problem?
Greetings from Chile
Have you taken the plugs out and looked at them? It's certainly possible that both are fouled if you've got electrical continuity all the way to the plugs, and its not firing. If you haven't taken them out, its worth doing so, cleaning them up as best you can and trying that.

Its probably a terrible idea, but if you have one of the plugs out, connected to the wire and hold it with something well insulated, you may be able to see if there is spark when you turn the engine over.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:19 PM   #57495
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The dual earths last a bit longer, and theoretically give a better spark. I have used them in my DR and the Iridiums and can't pick the difference. They did seem to get the engine running a little easier and maybe run a bit smoother when first fitted, but the stock plugs needed replacing and I'm sure stock plugs would have been similar, just not last as long. On NGK Iridiums at the moment and don't think about them.
I've got 96,000km on a set of twin electrode NGK's at the moment.

One day I'll check the valve clearances and the plugs...
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