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Old 12-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #57481
EvanADV
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Location: Joplor, NC
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Well, I think i've made yet another stupid mistake.

I just got back from IDLING my bike home over 7 miles at <10mph as it refused to take ANY throttle whatsoever.

Was going down the interstate at 75mph indicated, thinking I was cutting it close on fuel at ~150 miles on the IMS 4.9 gallon tank, and the bike cut out on me. I quickly reached down and switched to reserve, but the bike wouldn't take any throttle. 2 miles on the shoulder at 10mph max I got to an exit, another mile later I got to a gas station. Filled up with fuel, no change.

Messed with it for about 20 minute, nothing seemed to be wrong. I did notice I could hold my finger over the hose coming off the carb (no 17 in the diagram below) and it would take throttle normally. Tried a screw in the end taped on with electrical tape but that wouldn't work. Guess it only liked my finger....



Decided to limp several miles home while idling. Felt like an eternity.

Got home, looked at my fuel line from the petcock to the carb inlet and realized there was no fuel filter. I know I bought one when I did the procycle kit on the carb, but I must've totally forgot to put it in. I had removed the little one that goes in the carb inlet pipe previously as well (no 24 in the diagram). Crazy that i've ridden almost 1000 miles with no issue with absolutely no fuel filtration.

Surely it's just some trash in the carb? Does that sound like it could be the culprit? As I said, it will start and idle, but just won't take any throttle whatsoever. Acts like it would when you first start it up on a cold day before it's warmed up. Strange thing about putting my finger over the end of that hose and it letting me give it throttle though. Is that just a vent hose? For the life of me I couldn't find anywhere to plug it up to anything, and it doesn't feel like it's pulling vacuum.

Guess i'll pull the carb tomorrow and see what's going on.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:57 PM   #57482
EvanADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Messed with it for about 20 minute, nothing seemed to be wrong. I did notice I could hold my finger over the hose coming off the carb (no 17 in the diagram below) and it would take throttle normally. Tried a screw in the end taped on with electrical tape but that wouldn't work. Guess it only liked my finger....
FWIW .... I DO have the vacuum cap on the place where the vacuum port for the stock petcock is.
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Current Steeds: '08 FJR1300 | '02 DR650
Former Steeds: '99 DR650 | '02 DR650 | '09 DL650 | '07 B1250
9 states left to ride: WI, MN, ND, SD, UT, OK, KS, AK, and HI.
First Trip on 2 Wheels. 10,000 miles. 21 years old.
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:46 AM   #57483
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Messed with it for about 20 minute, nothing seemed to be wrong. I did notice I could hold my finger over the hose coming off the carb (no 17 in the diagram below) and it would take throttle normally. Tried a screw in the end taped on with electrical tape but that wouldn't work. Guess it only liked my finger....
That hose is only meant to vent to air. It sits on top of the airbox alongside the frame rail.


Pull the cap off the vacuum port and see how it goes. Then cover it with your magic finger and see if there's a difference.
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:42 AM   #57484
Stringer99
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isnt #17 the secondary breather hose? isnt there supposed to be a filter on the end?
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:54 AM   #57485
ThomasVolomitz
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My bike has almost 22,000 miles. While changing tires the other day, I checked all the bearings and they seemed perfect. My bike isn't ridden too hard so maybe it isn't just mileage that wears them out.

Replaced the Sahara Enduro 3's with somewhat more aggressive rubber. Maybe it'll get flogged a little harder now.

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Old 12-02-2011, 08:01 AM   #57486
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for that update. This is timely for me.
When you replaced the Bearing ... did you do replace anything else? Was it only the left side hubb bearing or all rear wheel bearings on both sides?
Did you replace any other parts ... like the sprockets/chain? Or just the bearing(s)?

Glad to hear things have smoothed out ... I'm thinking of doing the same job soon. How hard was it to get the hubb bearings out and new ones in?

Cheers
Just did this myself. Easy to get the bearings out. And back in. If the cush drive bearing looks like this one you have to figure it out. I took mine to a welder and he welded a plate to the bearing race that I couldn't get out and then we hammered the plate and the bearing race came out. We also heated the cush drive slightly. Be careful aluminum melts easy. I should also recommend changing all bearings when doing this. If one is bad or going bad, they all are. The stock bearings are junk IMHO. Get the sealed ones and should last much longer, especially if you do a lot of water crossings. Also After the side to side movement it did do a number on the sprocket and chain so I opted to replace those as well.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:13 AM   #57487
newride
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chain adjustment

So what is the best position for the bike for adjusting the chain? a mechanic told me I need to get the rear wheel off the ground as much as possible. The manuel said the bike should be on its side stand. So far my experience with DR's is the chain gets really loose over time, I adjust it one notch on each side and then it is REALLy tight. I then usually put it back to where it was.
what I am I doing wrong?
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:24 AM   #57488
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
So what is the best position for the bike for adjusting the chain? a mechanic told me I need to get the rear wheel off the ground as much as possible. The manuel said the bike should be on its side stand. So far my experience with DR's is the chain gets really loose over time, I adjust it one notch on each side and then it is REALLy tight. I then usually put it back to where it was.
what I am I doing wrong?

Rotation. Once adjusted rotate the wheel and then check again. This may not be exactly right, but I adjust my chain with someone on the bike. ie: tensioned, then they roll the bike forward a bit and check tension again. My freind just purchased a TE630 and we found that with no one on the bike the chain was very loose, so he was adjusting it in that respect. When he sat on the bike and we checked the chain it was very very tight. It doesn't have a cush drive though. Also I was informed on here about some difference between tensioners on each side. So I purchased the tool to clamp on the rotor, then it has a guide to align the chain straight. I found that I am one whole number off or different between either side. I had no idea this was posssible, but right side is on the 3 and left is on the 2. Pretty strange and not very accurate.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:12 AM   #57489
JagLite
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Cool2 Chain tension

Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Rotation. Once adjusted rotate the wheel and then check again. This may not be exactly right, but I adjust my chain with someone on the bike. ie: tensioned, then they roll the bike forward a bit and check tension again. My freind just purchased a TE630 and we found that with no one on the bike the chain was very loose, so he was adjusting it in that respect. When he sat on the bike and we checked the chain it was very very tight. It doesn't have a cush drive though. Also I was informed on here about some difference between tensioners on each side. So I purchased the tool to clamp on the rotor, then it has a guide to align the chain straight. I found that I am one whole number off or different between either side. I had no idea this was posssible, but right side is on the 3 and left is on the 2. Pretty strange and not very accurate.
Yes, as asrvivor says, we can't trust the numbers on the snail cam adjusters as they are not very accurate.

I use a strap over the seat to hold it down. Sit on the bike and tighten the strap and you may need to bounce it a bit. The object is to get the swingarm straight in line with the rear axle and the countershaft. That is where the chain is tightest. Then rotate the wheel or roll the bike to find the tightest spot and use that as your guide. Chain tension will vary. You do NOT want the chain to be fully tight at that point or it is possible to break the case around the countershaft while riding. MAJOR expense...

Chain tension may vary by the temperature of the chain too. My chain tends to "stretch" when hot so I set the tension when it is cold. I don't know if that is true of all chains.

Once you have a reasonable slack at the tightest spot. (Yeah, I know, What's reasonable? I just make sure there is some deflection available in the chain) Then when you release the strap holding the suspension compressed you can measure the slack when the bike is sitting on the side stand. NOW you will have an idea of how much slack you want in the chain.

You can have too much slack of course, but having it too tight is much worse.

I like to get the chain tension correct and then I move the adjuster on the other side of the wheel to align the chain. As long as it is reasonably straight while adjusting chain tension, moving the axle with the snail cam on the far side will not affect the tension enough to bother with.

I keep the axle nut snug so the axle will not move without external pressure. I use a rubber mallet. You want to keep the axle tight against the snail cam on the chain side so your adjustment doesn't change. Then by tapping on the tire or axle you can move the axle on the far side forward. By tapping on the snail cam you move the axle backwards. I use a ball peen hammer for tapping on the cams.

Just my 2c on chain adjustment...
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:14 AM   #57490
newride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Rotation. Once adjusted rotate the wheel and then check again. This may not be exactly right, but I adjust my chain with someone on the bike. ie: tensioned, then they roll the bike forward a bit and check tension again. My freind just purchased a TE630 and we found that with no one on the bike the chain was very loose, so he was adjusting it in that respect. When he sat on the bike and we checked the chain it was very very tight. It doesn't have a cush drive though. Also I was informed on here about some difference between tensioners on each side. So I purchased the tool to clamp on the rotor, then it has a guide to align the chain straight. I found that I am one whole number off or different between either side. I had no idea this was posssible, but right side is on the 3 and left is on the 2. Pretty strange and not very accurate.
wow. interesting on the chain alignment part. Did not know that was possible.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:56 AM   #57491
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for that update. This is timely for me.
When you replaced the Bearing ... did you do replace anything else? Was it only the left side hubb bearing or all rear wheel bearings on both sides?
Did you replace any other parts ... like the sprockets/chain? Or just the bearing(s)?

Glad to hear things have smoothed out ... I'm thinking of doing the same job soon. How hard was it to get the hubb bearings out and new ones in?

Cheers
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and after the new chain (DID 525 VM-X) and sprockets, I just replaced the 3 bearings in my rear hub. If you can run a hammer and punch, you're in. The two wheel bearings tap out from the opposite side like any other wheel bearing.

There is one seal in the cush hub and one in the wheel (right side). There's also a spacer in the cush hub, don't forget it. It's hard to miss, about 1-1/4" dia and 1-1/4" long.

But I wanted to remove my cush hub for a possible re-use (emergency spare maybe). So I made a puller, nothing but threaded rod, a socket, some washers, 3 nuts and a used piece of exhaust tubing large enough for the bearing to slide into; 2-1/4" I.D. This pulled the cush hub bearing easily.







Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Well, I think i've made yet another stupid mistake.

Got home, looked at my fuel line from the petcock to the carb inlet and realized there was no fuel filter.Surely it's just some trash in the carb?

Guess i'll pull the carb tomorrow and see what's going on.
You've diagnosed your own trouble. Running without a fuel filter is hardly stoopid nor fatal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stringer99 View Post
isnt #17 the secondary breather hose? isnt there supposed to be a filter on the end?
Nope.

The bottom one here:



Goes here:



The top one goes here:



This wasn't my idea, learned it here:



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 12:40 PM
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:00 AM   #57492
asrvivor
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Doing oil and tune today.

Does anyone have a pic of the little fuel screen filter that needs to come out. I'm sure I can find it, but haven't done it before. Just thought someone might have a good pic of where it is and what it looks like. Thanks

Oh one more quicky. My 3 years of free oil changes are up. Dangit So my first one believe it or not. 35000miles and first oil change for me. Hee Hee Does the filter cap have a gasket? And do you guys usually get a new one if so.
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asrvivor screwed with this post 12-02-2011 at 11:08 AM
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:09 AM   #57493
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Guess i'll pull the carb tomorrow and see what's going on.
Probably a clogged Pilot jet. Buy a new one ... stock size. In fact, buy two. Most dealers will have these in stock.

You can try to unclog yours ... but some have trouble getting them 100% free. I use a Guitar D string. (steel). Don't ding up or damage jet passages. New jet is a sure thing.

Also, flush out float bowel and jet needle in there. Pull the main too. Once everything is out ... use compressed air to blow out Carb cleaner. (EYE protection here!!)
DO not damage float mechanism! ... it's delicate.
Good luck!
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:13 AM   #57494
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Does anyone have a pic of the little fuel screen filter that needs to come out. I'm sure I can find it, but haven't done it before. Just thought someone might have a good pic of where it is and what it looks like. Thanks
Damn good timing, I took these last night.



It's a little snug in there, I used a dull shop knife:





This one has 28,000 miles and never been cleaned. These dirt specks were invisible to my old eyes.

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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:13 AM   #57495
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Oh one more quicky. My 3 years of free oil changes are up. Dangit So my first one believe it or not. 35000miles and first oil change for me. Hee Hee Does the filter cap have a gasket? And do you guys usually get a new one if so.
O ring. I keep a new one on-hand, but reuse if the current one looks OK.
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