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Old 12-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #57571
EvanADV
Big Bearded Boy
 
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Joplor, NC
Oddometer: 1,329
Quote:
Originally Posted by harryhammer View Post
your going to make a mow=can-eck yet
Yeah man! I'm starting to get REALLY acquainted with this bike! Not to mention my other projects....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Contrary to our wives (or ex-wives), we aren't stupid. We're guys; we're genetically programed to screw-up, but it's because we're always trying something new or different. And we always learn something from it, fix it and try again. It's how we got men on the moon and robots on Mars.
Agreed. It's definitely part of being a man. Let the stupidity continue!
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Current Steeds: '08 FJR1300 | '02 DR650
Former Steeds: '99 DR650 | '02 DR650 | '09 DL650 | '07 B1250
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:45 PM   #57572
jungleplant
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Yeah man! I'm starting to get REALLY acquainted with this bike! Not to mention my other projects....



Agreed. It's definitely part of being a man. Let the stupidity continue!
Thats why i name my company manracks, because averything is manly
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:04 PM   #57573
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 3,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Yeah, I get all that - spent most of my adult life designing and building machinery. I guess the gist of the question was whether adjusting to manual spec would typically leave a bit of free play when the three pivot points are in line. In my experience it does, just wondering if others have had problems adjusting to spec, specifically on a DR650.
Yes, on my 650.

Any time I changed the front sprocket for different riding conditions, I wondered why the front sprocket was worn on the outside and the rear sprocket on the inside. I'd check the adjusters and they were even, so I'd done my part and I'd dismiss the sprocket wear; I did this for many thousands of miles. Then I got a new sprocket that came with a circlip. Although I didn't like the loose sprocket concept, it finally turned on a light and I tried the circlip. Sure enough, the sprocket ran closer to the engine than the stock retainer allowed. Ah Ha. So I adjusted the right snail one click shorter (not a whole number) and took a ride, not far enough, so another click shorter. Two clicks aren't quite enough, but much closer than before.

So, I trusted the manual, which seemed prudent; but I turned off my common sense when I did.
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:15 PM   #57574
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Yeah man! I'm starting to get REALLY acquainted with this bike! Not to mention my other projects....



Agreed. It's definitely part of being a man. Let the stupidity continue!
if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!

doug s.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:48 PM   #57575
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c2c4c View Post
Agreed. It's definitely part of being a man. Let the stupidity learning continue!
Fixt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Thats why i name my company manracks, because everything is manly


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I posted that quite a while back. Glad someone used it. Did you oil the foam? I do. RR
Hi Rusty, glad you spoke up. I don't like plagiarizing others' good ideas. Yes, I do oil it. I use the same 10w40 the manual tells me to use on the main filter, since I already have it.

I got a little behind on my maintenance, pic taken earlier today. You can tell I used plenty of oil, even the outside was collecting dust. Real glad it wasn't just the itty bitty and dry stocker. Eeeewww There was no dust above the slide so it did it's job very well, even when neglected. Thank you very much.



Watch out for this bugger, it's a springy plastic and 10 seconds after this pic was taken, I heard it bounce twice and disappear.



For a visual, and other readers, the stock one is kept too:



After a good cleaning, we end up with



If you lose the plastic ring, look here first. Of course it's easy to see, I lit it up for the photo.
After removing the air box and crawling over both sides of the bike for an hour........

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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:02 PM   #57576
LucasLeader
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for that update. This is timely for me.
When you replaced the Bearing ... did you do replace anything else? Was it only the left side hubb bearing or all rear wheel bearings on both sides?
Did you replace any other parts ... like the sprockets/chain? Or just the bearing(s)?

Glad to hear things have smoothed out ... I'm thinking of doing the same job soon. How hard was it to get the hubb bearings out and new ones in?

Cheers
I replaced the seal on the sprocket carrier and the cush drive rubbers, but nothing else. The wheel bearings still seem smooth and tight, the rear sprocket and chain look okay, and I only have about 500 miles on the new 14t front sprocket. To get the bearing out I pried the seal off with a screwdriver, then laid the sprocket on some pieces of 2x4 and hit the bearing out with a hammer and brass punch. To put the new one in I used the old bearing to drive the new one in, and then was able to drive the old one out with the brass punch. Then just pushed the new seal in and used a small piece of wood to tap it in. Oh, and cleaned and greased everything while it was apart. It wasn't too much work except for getting the wheel assembly back in the swingarm. I guess the new rubbers made it a decent amount wider. I'm assuming they'll be compressed by the time I have the wheel off again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
How do you assess those bearing? Just stick your finger in there and see how they feel when you have the wheel off? That's all I've been doing. 32,000 miles on the bike now.
I was able to wobble the sprocket side to side quite a bit, which I knew a bearing shouldn't do. When I took it apart I held the sprocket firmly and wiggled the inner race of the bearing. It's not supposed to move, but mine did. It should also spin smoothly, and not feel like it has sand in it and look like someone smeared rusty sewage in it.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:07 PM   #57577
LexTalionis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I've been chasing a driveline vibration and after the new chain (DID 525 VM-X) and sprockets, I just replaced the 3 bearings in my rear hub. If you can run a hammer and punch, you're in. The two wheel bearings tap out from the opposite side like any other wheel bearing.

There is one seal in the cush hub and one in the wheel (right side). There's also a spacer in the cush hub, don't forget it. It's hard to miss, about 1-14" dia and 1-1/4" long.

But I wanted to remove my cush hub for a possible re-use (emergency spare maybe). So I made a puller, nothing but threaded rod, a socket, some washers, 3 nuts and a used piece of exhaust tubing large enough for the bearing to slide into; 2-1/4" I.D. This pulled the cush hub bearing easily.






Clever! Thanks for sharing.

Lex
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:16 PM   #57578
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:06 AM   #57579
Sydney Rider
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Did my NSU - glad I did

Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:25 AM   #57580
JoeyBones
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Charlotte, Y'all
Oddometer: 1,190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydney Rider View Post
Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony
So my DR now has about 86 miles on it. I just ordered the 14T front sprocket from Procycle, and while I was at it I added a clutch cover gasket to the shopping cart. I plan to get this done along with the break-in / 600 mile oil change.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:09 AM   #57581
planemanx15
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
It wasn't too much work except for getting the wheel assembly back in the swingarm. I guess the new rubbers made it a decent amount wider. I'm assuming they'll be compressed by the time I have the wheel off again.
I had the same problem getting my rear wheel back on after changing the Cush rubbers. Tool about 45 minutes and that spacer on the brake side kept popping out. I ended up using a pry bar to pull the swing arm out a little bit in order to get everything to fit.
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:17 AM   #57582
asrvivor
Rabies Cure ????
 
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Boring! MORE COW BELL
Oddometer: 1,877
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I had the same problem getting my rear wheel back on after changing the Cush rubbers. Tool about 45 minutes and that spacer on the brake side kept popping out. I ended up using a pry bar to pull the swing arm out a little bit in order to get everything to fit.

Ditto, new cush rubbers made it tuff to get the wheel back on. They did wear in though and the next tire change at about 2000 miles was nice and easy.

Sydney Rider Today 02:06 AM Did my NSU - glad I did

Howdy all,

Kept putting off the NSU task because I wasn't sure that I would do it properly.....

So today, with 30,700klms on the clock, I decided it was time and I found that the screws were less than finger tight.

Better to be safe than sorry.

Tony

Did you happen to take any pics of that as you were doing it? Thanks
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:43 AM   #57583
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 3,995
NSU Info and Pics

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:57 AM   #57584
asrvivor
Rabies Cure ????
 
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Boring! MORE COW BELL
Oddometer: 1,877
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Perfect. Gonna get it done tonight. Thanks John
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:00 PM   #57585
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
I replaced the seal on the sprocket carrier and the cush drive rubbers, but nothing else. The wheel bearings still seem smooth and tight, the rear sprocket and chain look okay, and I only have about 500 miles on the new 14t front sprocket. To get the bearing out I pried the seal off with a screwdriver, then laid the sprocket on some pieces of 2x4 and hit the bearing out with a hammer and brass punch. To put the new one in I used the old bearing to drive the new one in, and then was able to drive the old one out with the brass punch. Then just pushed the new seal in and used a small piece of wood to tap it in. Oh, and cleaned and greased everything while it was apart. It wasn't too much work except for getting the wheel assembly back in the swingarm. I guess the new rubbers made it a decent amount wider. I'm assuming they'll be compressed by the time I have the wheel off again.
Thanks for the tutorial!
I've replaced my Cush rubbers twice. Both times it makes getting the Hubb and sprocket into the wheel tougher ... which makes getting wheel on harder. I used a mallet to "persuade" it in a bit so it would "seat" all the way. Over time it will resist less and seat better.

But I've found the Cush Drive rubbers seem to wear out in 15 to 20K miles.

Thanks again!
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