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Old 12-22-2011, 12:50 PM   #58171
kobukan
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I've read about the hair spray trick many times. Tried it once. Didn't like the results. Now I use Gorilla Glue - available at any hardware store and your grips won't be going anywhere.
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:36 PM   #58172
BergDonk
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Grips
I use aerosol brake cleaner to lubricate the grips on installation. It has the effect of fusing lightly the grips to the bar/heater/throttle. Spray some on the bar and inside the grip and slide on before it dries out. Easy to cut off when time, and leaves a clean surface for new grips. I then just safety wire them, usually about 6 spots, both ends and 3 or 4 in between with a double loop of wire. Been doing it like this for years on the dirt bikes with no issues and I've swapped them acouple of times on my DR now with no problems with the heaters.

I suspect the warning with heaters and tie wire relates to the twisted ends which need to be pushed into the grip so as not to puncture your hands and could then puncture the heater and maybe short circuit to the bar.

HD and Ultra HD Tubes
A nice feature of these is that they can easily be fitted with the tyre as a unit. I put heaps of talcum in the tyre carcass, insert the tube, and then fit the lot in one go. Much easier than poking a tube into a half fitted tyre. Can do the same with a standard tube too if you put a little air in it.

On my DR I'm happy using HD tubes with a little more air, say down to 14 psi. Noticably less heat build up with std and hd tubes compared to ultra at 20 psi and 100kph +. On my enduro bikes I use the ultras because I want to be able to run down to 10 psi sometimes less, and not worry about pinch flats on rocks and roots and I'm not running at high speeds for long. Tried a Tubeliss but found the catastrophic failure mode too painfull.

FWIW, if your suspension setup/compliance is good, the springs take the impact and not so much the tyre carcass, reducing the possibility of pinch flats and means lower pressures are OK, which means better traction and often better tyre life too because the tyre is not loosing traction and spinning up and chunking knobs.

Unsprung Weight
Is considered bad because its uncontrolled by the suspension. Its the ratio to sprung weight that is really the issue, so the heavier the vehicle, like a DR compared to an enduro bike, the less its an issue when adding some weight to the wheels. The heavier tubes also theoretically reduce acceleration and slow steering which I doubt most of us discriminate. It also enhances straight line stability. Think gyroscope with extra weight at the edge. Bicycle suspension is hard to get right because the unsprung weight is a lot compared to the weight of the frame and rider. Add an engine and stuff to the sprung weight and it gets easier.

Steve
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:49 PM   #58173
zdiver1
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Thumb Gorilla glue is not a glue!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I've read about the hair spray trick many times. Tried it once. Didn't like the results. Now I use Gorilla Glue - available at any hardware store and your grips won't be going anywhere.
It is a weld! I love this stuff. I also have a new never used ome stock kick stand off my 2011 in AZ near your bike in az.Paul
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:24 PM   #58174
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i'm a fan of the bridgestone heavy duty 3mm tubes. better weight performance than the unreal heavy ultra heavy duty 4mm tubes and mount much easier. then can also be patched and it will hold unlike the 4mm tubes (which i used in the past but no more).

i use a 100-18" rear in the 17 tire and it fits perfect. tried a 110-18" and it was too big to fit correctly.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...odFamilyId=287
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #58175
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
. . . I also have a new never used ome stock kick stand off my 2011 in AZ near your bike in az.Paul
Wish I had known sooner - I already have one on the way. If you're in Peoria, you're probably only 15 miles from where the bike is - it's at Pro Motor Sports. I'll be flying in to pick it up in a couple weeks on the 4th.
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:43 PM   #58176
zdiver1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Wish I had known sooner - I already have one on the way. If you're in Peoria, you're probably only 15 miles from where the bike is - it's at Pro Motor Sports. I'll be flying in to pick it up in a couple weeks on the 4th.
If I did not have to work that day I would pick you up and take you over to PMS.
Have fun and enjoy the 60 degree temps.
I also have never used stock fork springs, shock spring,kick stand,brake light and lic plat holder,foot pegs,and you have the seat! Paul
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:02 PM   #58177
Rusty Rocket
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First day of winter and it was 52 degrees out. I had to go for a short ride. I did 25 miles of back roads in town, DR needs some mechanical stuff to get ready for next season, but if it stays this warm, I won't be taking stuff apart. Keep riding till it's too cold.
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:45 PM   #58178
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I've read about the hair spray trick many times. Tried it once. Didn't like the results. Now I use Gorilla Glue - available at any hardware store and your grips won't be going anywhere.
Come grip swap time garilla glue will be a nightmare.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:00 PM   #58179
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Okay, Thanks guys for the input. I just couldn't find any grips with open ends so I was scratching my head..

I just found on Happy Trail's website if you buy the Symtec Heated grip elements they'll give you a pair of progrip grips "free"... I'm sure they make up for it somewhere; but still compared to other places that's a decent deal.

I saw on that one link you posted they guy recommended securing your grips with safety wire... I've never thought of that, but I have read recently not to do it with heated grips... not sure why...
One thing to consider about new grips. For heated grips ... thin is good.
I never found any better than stock Suzuki grips. Pro Grips should be OK but look around at shops and buy the thinnest grips you can find ... MORE HEAT!!

I still am running the ORIGINAL Suzuki grips on my bike and they are so worn the little nubs are all worn off But the heated grips work so well I don't want to change them!! I have several sets of new grips sitting here ... but I'm hanging onto my ultra thin ones!

PLUS ONE ... on wrapping the left side bar. (metal) But on the road the throttle side will still heat up first.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:05 PM   #58180
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
Come grip swap time garilla glue will be a nightmare.
That makes sense. i"ve used Gorilla glue for years. It's water activated ... and expands quite a bit as it dries. Seems you may see some "lumps" in your soft grips as the Gorilla glue cures. Plus, it may work its way out on the ends.

I've used Grip Glue for years. Hair Spray will not last. I use Grip Glue as a lubricant to slide the grips on. Works OK ... just work fast! Heating elements aren't harmed by Grip Glue.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:06 PM   #58181
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Need some basic mod advice

I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:13 PM   #58182
thumpididump
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The previous owner of my WR installed a set of Oxford Touring Style Heated Grips and I must say I think they're great. In fact, I may buy a set for the DR. They seem to be of decent quality. The heat output seems pretty even between right and left sides.

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Old 12-22-2011, 05:39 PM   #58183
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
The previous owner of my WR installed a set of Oxford Touring Style Heated Grips and I must say I think they're great. In fact, I may buy a set for the DR. They seem to be of decent quality. The heat output seems pretty even between right and left sides.

I've got these on my 1400GTR roadie and they are very good in that environment. IMHO though, too fat and not enough grip for adv/enduro.

Steve
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:01 PM   #58184
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
F.W.I.W. Progrip makes some really good open ended grips and I'll second the old hairspray trick. (Aquanet works best)
Aquanet is the recommended fuel for potato guns, also.

Lucky for me, with my hairstyle, I don't need "hair products" and NEVER worry about "helmet hair."

Lex
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:09 PM   #58185
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
First day of winter and it was 52 degrees out. I had to go for a short ride. I did 25 miles of back roads in town, DR needs some mechanical stuff to get ready for next season, but if it stays this warm, I won't be taking stuff apart. Keep riding till it's too cold.
62F and not a cloud in the sky here in San Jose, CA today; being an idiot, I rode the DR to Sky Londa, on the crest of the local Santa Cruz Mountains, where the temps were 20F colder. I gave thanks to the defunct Widder company for the electric vest.

Lex
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