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Old 12-22-2011, 07:24 PM   #58171
ThomasVolomitz
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So elecric gear works ok with the DR?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:34 PM   #58172
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
So elecric gear works ok with the DR?
Depends on how much you're trying to run. Best to have a voltmeter if you do. Gerbing jacket (77w) and gloves (27w) are more than it can handle in stock configuration. I run them both, with a voltmeter, and keep the jacket turned down to where I'm not draining the battery. I believe there's only about 60 extra watts to use, others may know more for sure, but that seems about right.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:49 PM   #58173
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Just Sayin!

Thanks to all for their input. I love my DR. My BMW R1150R just sits in the garage languishing. I think she is for sale. Happy Holidays. Just after Christmas I am riding to the little known canyons in Southeastern Colorado. I will put a ride report in Day Trippn' Carcajou
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:10 PM   #58174
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post

Hard to believe you couldn't find any use for it considering how much they sell and how many people swear by it for so many different uses.

How much of that stuff did you use? I've had no issues with thickness/expansion, lumps, etc. And for as often as I'll be swapping grips I prefer knowing they aren't going to move. Tried the hair spray a couple times and it just didn't grip. YMMV, of course.
Yeah, my mileage sometimes varies all over the place, I just recall the glue foaming around and out of whatever joint I had in mind to glue, and it was a light brown, open cell foaming kind of look as I recall. I think I had to add a little moisture to the mix? Maybe I shouldn't have? I did just now look for that bottle, in case I didn't throw it away, couldn't find it.

Lex
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:20 PM   #58175
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I wondered about that when I first bought the bike but after a few good trail rides, I never saw any issues with the size and/or grip. True, they're a tiny bit fatter than MX grips but with my arthritis they feel nice. And with decent gloves, no grip issues either.




Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I've got these on my 1400GTR roadie and they are very good in that environment. IMHO though, too fat and not enough grip for adv/enduro.

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Old 12-22-2011, 08:20 PM   #58176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVBedouin View Post
Hairspray works great to loosen old grips & is semi-adhesive for new ones, but it's hard to beat grip glue, or better yet safety wire, for long lasting stick.
I've had great luck over the years with golf club tape. Put it on the bar, saturate it with the solvent, slide the grip on. It ain't going no where and it's totally waterproof.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:25 PM   #58177
ShadyRascal
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Location: the Root, Western Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?


Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
Greg,
Definitely on the right track. If you increase your fork spring rate however, go with emulators rather than intiminators. The guys at Procycle will fill you in as to why.
Also, try like hell to find the GSXR1000 muffler can. They work very well, aren't too loud, and you won't have to deal with repacking as you do with the FMF or other aftermarket cans.

Plus, read up on jetting when you do the carb mods. Most rejet systems such as a Dyno Jet starts you out so fat the bike will hardly run, and once your carb is set up right with these mods you will have lots more power but still retain your 50+ mpg.

Steve
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:34 PM   #58178
drsmiley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadyRascal View Post
Greg,
Definitely on the right track. If you increase your fork spring rate however, go with emulators rather than intiminators. The guys at Procycle will fill you in as to why.
Also, try like hell to find the GSXR1000 muffler can. They work very well, aren't too loud, and you won't have to deal with repacking as you do with the FMF or other aftermarket cans.

Plus, read up on jetting when you do the carb mods. Most rejet systems such as a Dyno Jet starts you out so fat the bike will hardly run, and once your carb is set up right with these mods you will have lots more power but still retain your 50+ mpg.

Steve
Also check on the Twin Air Filter over the K&N, Definitely try to find you a 01-02 GSXR !000 muffler over the ones you listed.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:50 PM   #58179
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
suspension sounds ok. tho i went w/a usd front suspension from a suzuki rm-series bike w/race tech springs. i saw no need to add the intiminators or emulators, as my bike is 'tarded and almost 100% street use, and i figured the usd forks w/race-tech springs was sufficient. if/when i sell my stock front end, the cost may even be less than a complete stock rebuild, but completely re-doing the front forks would be fine, me-thinks. (tho i would go w/a fork brace if keeping the stock forks.) i have yust received a used shock that was rebuilt w/racetech emulators and an eibach spring - pretty-much exactly what your shock solution kit is; i am expecting similar positive results...

for me, a riser kit is a no-go - i don't ride standing on the pegs, and i prefer a lower hand position.

as far as power mods go, i would recommend a completely new carb, instead of the jet kit for the stocker. everything i have read says that, while a re-jetting of the stock carb is nice, a new carb is worlds better. if you are patient, you can do it w/o breaking the bank. i found a used keihin fcr39 carb, already set up for the dr650, including merge racing spring, for <$150 on fleabay. (other folks have gotten similar results w/the mikuni tm40m carb upgrade; i am not saying the fcr39 is better than the tm40 - i honestly don't know if one is better than the other.) and, for exhaust, i would recommend hi-flow fmf powerbomb header, kientech hi-flow midpipe, and a gsxr1000-style muffler. i say "gsxr-style" because, while unsuccessfully looking for the correct 40f0 muffler, i stumbled across a great deal on a tsukigi upgrade gsxr muffler, so i went w/that instead, on my bike. this (and the suzuki stockers) are not too loud and never need repacking. so, i'd definitely recommend going the gsxr-style muffler. and the total package makes the bike perform really well.

and is that a stock seat i see on your bike? and you do long rides? wow - 15 minutes was enough for me on the stock seat! i'd definitely recommend a seat upgrade. the procycle saddleman diy kits look great, and i woulda done that if i didn't happen to stumble across a good deal on a local used corbin...

doug s.

doug s. screwed with this post 12-22-2011 at 08:58 PM Reason: grammar
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #58180
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Depends on how much you're trying to run. Best to have a voltmeter if you do. Gerbing jacket (77w) and gloves (27w) are more than it can handle in stock configuration. I run them both, with a voltmeter, and keep the jacket turned down to where I'm not draining the battery. I believe there's only about 60 extra watts to use, others may know more for sure, but that seems about right.
That is about right. With only 200 watts total to run the whole bike ... the little DR is not exactly a dynamo of surplus elec. power. Even with my HID headlight ... if it's really cold I switch off my headlight so the Gerbing gets enough to Eat and keeps me alive. It's performance is better when it's getting enough power.

To save the battery I generally try to turn down the Gerbing jacket as mentioned above. At about 70% all is well and grips can be on high, battery will not go dead ... unless everything is run at 100%. With HID (35 watts) it does not go dead at all ... at least not yet.

So the Voltage has to be minded. I don't have a volt meter ... but I should.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #58181
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
So elecric gear works ok with the DR?
also - if you go w/an hid head light kit, you pick up 20w when the lo-beam is on, 25w when the hi-beam is on (the standard hid hi-lo kit is 35w.) besides, you can actually see in the dark w/the hid head lights!

doug s.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:22 PM   #58182
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
The quickest, cheapest and easiest way to get "a bit more power" ... is to go back to stock gearing. 15T front sprocket.

The DR650 ... if set up correctly with fresh chain, sprockets and fresh cush rubbers ... is nice and smooth at 80 mph. And the motor is not straining to hold that speed. Just let her run ... she can take it.

If you do a lot of tight, twisty back road riding ... then I'd go even lower and put a 14T front sprocket on. This peps up acceleration .... gives a bit more snap going through the gears. The DR will never be fast.

If you want fast ... Get a KTM 690 Duke or a Husky 630 SM. Now THAT is fast.

I'm sure you'll get a hundred ideas on this. If you want to go with another carb ... not a bad idea. I would go Keihin FCR Carb. If you can find one and get all the important things to get it set up right ... not Always that easy. But for long highway rides ... you probably won't notice much difference from stock.

Forks
50 may be a bit too stiff? Depends on your weight and riding style. I'd use Race Tech emulators and drill the rods per their advice. 7 wt. oil.

Jet Kit ... good idea .. unless you opt for new Carb. $$$$

Shock ... also consider Cogent Dynamics. A pro but not cheap. Worth it imho ... but only if you plan aggressive street sport riding or aggressive off road riding. Other wise ... just leave it alone ... or maybe buy a stiffer spring if you're over 250 lbs.

FMF Q4 ? Not bad, but the Police will hear you coming in town. I prefer the GSXR muffler. Quality Titanium pipe, bit quieter, no re-packing and just a couple lbs. heavier than FMF. Will last forever.

If you do long rides or ride at night/early AM
1. Seat ... a must do
2. Better headlight (HID works good)
3. Buy elec. gear
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #58183
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,132
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
If you're going for Intiminators and are mainly riding road and not loading up with heaps of gear, I'd stay with the stock springs and preload spacer.
Rear 7.6kg spring and 10w oil. The shock solution kit is nice but more use if you're doing lots of off road.
Foot peg lowering kit to make it feel less cramped and for easier seated to standing transitions and then if you feel it needs it, a bar riser kit later.
Procycle or DynoJet kit.
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:56 AM   #58184
goodcat8
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Question

Has there been any news or updates regarding the new IMS or Acerbis tank that was posted a few weeks back?
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:11 AM   #58185
Thumper Dan
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Exhaust gasket

Hi all,

Noob question! I have my new dr650 and want to inspect the header pipe to see if there is any factory weld that needs removing etc. Do I have to purchase another exhaust gasket. or can I use the current one in there??

thanks heaps (yes, i did search and search and even the manual)

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