ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-22-2011, 08:34 PM   #58171
drsmiley
Gnarly Adventurer
 
drsmiley's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Atlanta, Ga.
Oddometer: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadyRascal View Post
Greg,
Definitely on the right track. If you increase your fork spring rate however, go with emulators rather than intiminators. The guys at Procycle will fill you in as to why.
Also, try like hell to find the GSXR1000 muffler can. They work very well, aren't too loud, and you won't have to deal with repacking as you do with the FMF or other aftermarket cans.

Plus, read up on jetting when you do the carb mods. Most rejet systems such as a Dyno Jet starts you out so fat the bike will hardly run, and once your carb is set up right with these mods you will have lots more power but still retain your 50+ mpg.

Steve
Also check on the Twin Air Filter over the K&N, Definitely try to find you a 01-02 GSXR !000 muffler over the ones you listed.
drsmiley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:50 PM   #58172
doug s.
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
suspension sounds ok. tho i went w/a usd front suspension from a suzuki rm-series bike w/race tech springs. i saw no need to add the intiminators or emulators, as my bike is 'tarded and almost 100% street use, and i figured the usd forks w/race-tech springs was sufficient. if/when i sell my stock front end, the cost may even be less than a complete stock rebuild, but completely re-doing the front forks would be fine, me-thinks. (tho i would go w/a fork brace if keeping the stock forks.) i have yust received a used shock that was rebuilt w/racetech emulators and an eibach spring - pretty-much exactly what your shock solution kit is; i am expecting similar positive results...

for me, a riser kit is a no-go - i don't ride standing on the pegs, and i prefer a lower hand position.

as far as power mods go, i would recommend a completely new carb, instead of the jet kit for the stocker. everything i have read says that, while a re-jetting of the stock carb is nice, a new carb is worlds better. if you are patient, you can do it w/o breaking the bank. i found a used keihin fcr39 carb, already set up for the dr650, including merge racing spring, for <$150 on fleabay. (other folks have gotten similar results w/the mikuni tm40m carb upgrade; i am not saying the fcr39 is better than the tm40 - i honestly don't know if one is better than the other.) and, for exhaust, i would recommend hi-flow fmf powerbomb header, kientech hi-flow midpipe, and a gsxr1000-style muffler. i say "gsxr-style" because, while unsuccessfully looking for the correct 40f0 muffler, i stumbled across a great deal on a tsukigi upgrade gsxr muffler, so i went w/that instead, on my bike. this (and the suzuki stockers) are not too loud and never need repacking. so, i'd definitely recommend going the gsxr-style muffler. and the total package makes the bike perform really well.

and is that a stock seat i see on your bike? and you do long rides? wow - 15 minutes was enough for me on the stock seat! i'd definitely recommend a seat upgrade. the procycle saddleman diy kits look great, and i woulda done that if i didn't happen to stumble across a good deal on a local used corbin...

doug s.

doug s. screwed with this post 12-22-2011 at 08:58 PM Reason: grammar
doug s. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #58173
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Depends on how much you're trying to run. Best to have a voltmeter if you do. Gerbing jacket (77w) and gloves (27w) are more than it can handle in stock configuration. I run them both, with a voltmeter, and keep the jacket turned down to where I'm not draining the battery. I believe there's only about 60 extra watts to use, others may know more for sure, but that seems about right.
That is about right. With only 200 watts total to run the whole bike ... the little DR is not exactly a dynamo of surplus elec. power. Even with my HID headlight ... if it's really cold I switch off my headlight so the Gerbing gets enough to Eat and keeps me alive. It's performance is better when it's getting enough power.

To save the battery I generally try to turn down the Gerbing jacket as mentioned above. At about 70% all is well and grips can be on high, battery will not go dead ... unless everything is run at 100%. With HID (35 watts) it does not go dead at all ... at least not yet.

So the Voltage has to be minded. I don't have a volt meter ... but I should.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #58174
doug s.
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
So elecric gear works ok with the DR?
also - if you go w/an hid head light kit, you pick up 20w when the lo-beam is on, 25w when the hi-beam is on (the standard hid hi-lo kit is 35w.) besides, you can actually see in the dark w/the hid head lights!

doug s.
doug s. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 09:22 PM   #58175
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
The quickest, cheapest and easiest way to get "a bit more power" ... is to go back to stock gearing. 15T front sprocket.

The DR650 ... if set up correctly with fresh chain, sprockets and fresh cush rubbers ... is nice and smooth at 80 mph. And the motor is not straining to hold that speed. Just let her run ... she can take it.

If you do a lot of tight, twisty back road riding ... then I'd go even lower and put a 14T front sprocket on. This peps up acceleration .... gives a bit more snap going through the gears. The DR will never be fast.

If you want fast ... Get a KTM 690 Duke or a Husky 630 SM. Now THAT is fast.

I'm sure you'll get a hundred ideas on this. If you want to go with another carb ... not a bad idea. I would go Keihin FCR Carb. If you can find one and get all the important things to get it set up right ... not Always that easy. But for long highway rides ... you probably won't notice much difference from stock.

Forks
50 may be a bit too stiff? Depends on your weight and riding style. I'd use Race Tech emulators and drill the rods per their advice. 7 wt. oil.

Jet Kit ... good idea .. unless you opt for new Carb. $$$$

Shock ... also consider Cogent Dynamics. A pro but not cheap. Worth it imho ... but only if you plan aggressive street sport riding or aggressive off road riding. Other wise ... just leave it alone ... or maybe buy a stiffer spring if you're over 250 lbs.

FMF Q4 ? Not bad, but the Police will hear you coming in town. I prefer the GSXR muffler. Quality Titanium pipe, bit quieter, no re-packing and just a couple lbs. heavier than FMF. Will last forever.

If you do long rides or ride at night/early AM
1. Seat ... a must do
2. Better headlight (HID works good)
3. Buy elec. gear
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #58176
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,137
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnlight View Post
I have an 05 with IMS tank, K&N filter, one tooth up on the countershaft and am 80% road rider (long ones lately) and what would be considered light offroad the rest. At 18,000 now, my suspension is turning to mush and I could use a bit more power with the higher gearing. I am mechanically competent and do my own maintanence/mods. It is either polish up the DR's skills or move to another bike and I would prefer the former.

I am basically ready to spend some money and have a list of goods but I just want to say I want solid but not magical results and it would be nice to make the mods moderately basic to save garage time for other projects. Still need solid reliability and decent fuel economy.

Here is my list at the moment:

-New fork springs from procycle .50 straight rate
-Intimidators
-fork skins
-procycle jet kit and air box mod with K&N
-procycle shock solution kit
-riser kit for bars or lowered pegs but not likely both
-FMF Q4 or other muffler that is not too loud

Am I on the right track?

Does anyone know off hand if they sell the Lynx fairing without the lights and what that might cost?

Bike seen here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/northwestrides/DR650#

Thanks folks,

Greg in Gig Harbor, WA
If you're going for Intiminators and are mainly riding road and not loading up with heaps of gear, I'd stay with the stock springs and preload spacer.
Rear 7.6kg spring and 10w oil. The shock solution kit is nice but more use if you're doing lots of off road.
Foot peg lowering kit to make it feel less cramped and for easier seated to standing transitions and then if you feel it needs it, a bar riser kit later.
Procycle or DynoJet kit.
__________________
DR650 Wiki
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 12:56 AM   #58177
goodcat8
I can pass this guy.....
 
goodcat8's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 2,997
Question

Has there been any news or updates regarding the new IMS or Acerbis tank that was posted a few weeks back?
__________________
2014 Triumph Scrambler
Prior: 3rd Battalion - 6th Marines - 2nd Marine Division - Lima Company - 2nd Platoon - 0311
goodcat8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 03:11 AM   #58178
Thumper Dan
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
Exhaust gasket

Hi all,

Noob question! I have my new dr650 and want to inspect the header pipe to see if there is any factory weld that needs removing etc. Do I have to purchase another exhaust gasket. or can I use the current one in there??

thanks heaps (yes, i did search and search and even the manual)

Thumper Dan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 04:23 AM   #58179
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
ADV8's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,311
The gasket is a copper ring and will take numerous reuses.
It will most likely stay in the port when the header pipe is removed.
The fibre tube gasket in the other end of the header to muffler is a little more fragile.
__________________
The person who got you the billet DR650 third gear set, you're welcome.
49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
ADV8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 06:44 AM   #58180
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 9,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
After hearing all the hype about Gorilla Glue I finally bought a bottle and was shocked at how much it expanded - like wall insulation. Threw away the bottle, couldn't see a use for it.

Lex
I used Gorilla Glue to stick the sole back on my riding boot. It did squeeze out of the joint, but it has held for over a year.
I would not use it for grips though. It would be nearly impossible to get them off the next time you need new ones.



I have used compressed air for years to put grips on and take them off. Works well.
__________________
on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #58181
dogjaw
plays well alone
 
dogjaw's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 3,144
600/750 vs 1000 exhaust

I recently came across a pile of take off GSXR cans, had the opportunity to run the 600 back to back with the 1000...

600 pros: a little quieter, but still a lot better sounding than stock, a lot easier to find at more reasonable cost,
cons; a bit heavier, lacking the titanium cool factor...

1000 pros: everything else.

that being said, the performance difference between the cans was almost nil; if I was having difficulty finding a 1000, I would not hesitate to use a 600 and never look back... be sure and check the markings on both, the 600 is marked 35F0, and the 1000 is 40F0, if you're unsure.

on another note, found some Hayabusa take offs as well, appear to be exactly the same size/weight as the 600; only difference is a three hole flange and the mounting tab is a bit more forward. I don't know yet how they flow, I sent them to Jesse at Kientech (who is the man, BTW) for evaluation, and will advise when I hear back.

Merry Christmas from the Ozarks...
dogjaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 10:08 AM   #58182
Heavy
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Heavy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Barrie, ON
Oddometer: 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
.... i"ve used Gorilla glue for years. It's water activated ... and expands quite a bit as it dries...
Try SUMO Glue...I consider it a step up from the Gorilla Glue.



http://youtu.be/bGFIWK7T7es
__________________
There is never enough time or money to do it right the first time.
2008 DR650, 2006 V-Strom 1000, 2014 CB500X
Heavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #58183
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,283
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
Hi all,

Noob question! I have my new dr650 and want to inspect the header pipe to see if there is any factory weld that needs removing etc. Do I have to purchase another exhaust gasket. or can I use the current one in there??

thanks heaps (yes, i did search and search and even the manual)

Be aware that you can grind the header weld too far.
Pic from SprintST, on a trip somewhere in Mexico:

__________________
2004 DR650: 62,496 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 10:35 AM   #58184
fastnlight
Repeat Offender
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
suspension sounds ok. tho i went w/a usd front suspension from a suzuki rm-series bike w/race tech springs. i saw no need to add the intiminators or emulators, as my bike is 'tarded and almost 100% street use, and i figured the usd forks w/race-tech springs was sufficient. if/when i sell my stock front end, the cost may even be less than a complete stock rebuild, but completely re-doing the front forks would be fine, me-thinks. (tho i would go w/a fork brace if keeping the stock forks.) i have yust received a used shock that was rebuilt w/racetech emulators and an eibach spring - pretty-much exactly what your shock solution kit is; i am expecting similar positive results...

for me, a riser kit is a no-go - i don't ride standing on the pegs, and i prefer a lower hand position.

as far as power mods go, i would recommend a completely new carb, instead of the jet kit for the stocker. everything i have read says that, while a re-jetting of the stock carb is nice, a new carb is worlds better. if you are patient, you can do it w/o breaking the bank. i found a used keihin fcr39 carb, already set up for the dr650, including merge racing spring, for <$150 on fleabay. (other folks have gotten similar results w/the mikuni tm40m carb upgrade; i am not saying the fcr39 is better than the tm40 - i honestly don't know if one is better than the other.) and, for exhaust, i would recommend hi-flow fmf powerbomb header, kientech hi-flow midpipe, and a gsxr1000-style muffler. i say "gsxr-style" because, while unsuccessfully looking for the correct 40f0 muffler, i stumbled across a great deal on a tsukigi upgrade gsxr muffler, so i went w/that instead, on my bike. this (and the suzuki stockers) are not too loud and never need repacking. so, i'd definitely recommend going the gsxr-style muffler. and the total package makes the bike perform really well.

and is that a stock seat i see on your bike? and you do long rides? wow - 15 minutes was enough for me on the stock seat! i'd definitely recommend a seat upgrade. the procycle saddleman diy kits look great, and i woulda done that if i didn't happen to stumble across a good deal on a local used corbin...

doug s.
It looks like a stock seat but I assure you it is not. I modify my own and that one is under the stock cover but has been cut away and re-constructed with two densities of foam shaped for a bony rear end for more comfort in the primary position and more if I slide back for a leg stretch as well. I thought the stock seat was good for one hour but not much more than that. I spent 10 hour days for over 10 days on that seat touring northern Nevada, eastern Sierras, and eastern Oregon with no problems. Those procycle kits do look like a great deal though. Thanks for the tips!

Greg
fastnlight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 10:41 AM   #58185
fastnlight
Repeat Offender
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Oddometer: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The quickest, cheapest and easiest way to get "a bit more power" ... is to go back to stock gearing. 15T front sprocket.

The DR650 ... if set up correctly with fresh chain, sprockets and fresh cush rubbers ... is nice and smooth at 80 mph. And the motor is not straining to hold that speed. Just let her run ... she can take it.

If you do a lot of tight, twisty back road riding ... then I'd go even lower and put a 14T front sprocket on. This peps up acceleration .... gives a bit more snap going through the gears. The DR will never be fast.

If you want fast ... Get a KTM 690 Duke or a Husky 630 SM. Now THAT is fast.

I'm sure you'll get a hundred ideas on this. If you want to go with another carb ... not a bad idea. I would go Keihin FCR Carb. If you can find one and get all the important things to get it set up right ... not Always that easy. But for long highway rides ... you probably won't notice much difference from stock.

Forks
50 may be a bit too stiff? Depends on your weight and riding style. I'd use Race Tech emulators and drill the rods per their advice. 7 wt. oil.

Jet Kit ... good idea .. unless you opt for new Carb. $$$$

Shock ... also consider Cogent Dynamics. A pro but not cheap. Worth it imho ... but only if you plan aggressive street sport riding or aggressive off road riding. Other wise ... just leave it alone ... or maybe buy a stiffer spring if you're over 250 lbs.

FMF Q4 ? Not bad, but the Police will hear you coming in town. I prefer the GSXR muffler. Quality Titanium pipe, bit quieter, no re-packing and just a couple lbs. heavier than FMF. Will last forever.

If you do long rides or ride at night/early AM
1. Seat ... a must do
2. Better headlight (HID works good)
3. Buy elec. gear
Good point on the gearing but with my current ride partners, we are doing a lot of long slab runs to hit remote sites in a day or two so the lower RPM is a little nicer on the hands. I ran stock gearing until last winter I agree the bike is capable but I really good vibee hands after a run. Now I don't.

I have twin LED driving lights ready for install as well so the periodic night riding I do is set to improve soon. Thats why I was looking at the Lynx fairing to mount them as replacements. I do have heated grips and vest so the warmth is there.
fastnlight is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015