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Old 01-07-2012, 08:53 AM   #58711
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
all this suspenion talk is blowing my ming, it sounds so confusing... is there some kind of dummies guide to suspensions online?
I bought this http://www.amazon.com/Techs-Motorcyc.../dp/0760331405 but haven't had a chance to get thru it. Lots of tech stuff online but I still like having books.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:03 AM   #58712
JagLite
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Talking Suspender tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
all this suspenion talk is blowing my ming, it sounds so confusing... is there some kind of dummies guide to suspensions online?
Here you go...
http://drriders.com/topic3218.html
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:17 AM   #58713
Sourjon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
all this suspenion talk is blowing my ming, it sounds so confusing... is there some kind of dummies guide to suspensions online?
Ned Suesse (Neduro on ADV) has an eBook that covers it all pretty well. It can be downloaded here for $14. Well worth it. BTW Ned's in the Dakar this year and knows his stuff.
Dual Sport Suspension Ebook



John
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:27 AM   #58714
Mtn Man
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Transmission Question / Gears

Hey guys need a little wisdom from those with more DR experience. My buddy and I are noticing some issues with the DR popping out of 2nd gear from time to time. It happens to me mostly when farting around in the mountains but my buddy is now experiencing the problem while riding to work. Thoughts? Problem? The reason I ask one of our friends was changing his oil a couple weeks ago and found a metal shaving on his mag oil plug ... long story short it appears to be a gear issue and now a major repair is under way.

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Old 01-07-2012, 09:32 AM   #58715
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtn Man View Post
Hey guys need a little wisdom from those with more DR experience. My buddy and I are noticing some issues with the DR popping out of 2nd gear from time to time. It happens to me mostly when farting around in the mountains but my buddy is now experiencing the problem while riding to work. Thoughts? Problem? The reason I ask one of our friends was changing his oil a couple weeks ago and found a metal shaving on his mag oil plug ... long story short it appears to be a gear issue and now a major repair is under way.

See if the shifter is hitting the case when you shift. May have bent it or the shift shaft. Or may just have to reposition the lever.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:44 AM   #58716
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
The question is, will 15-43 require a longer than 110 link chain on the DR?
Thanks,
Thanas
Hi Thanas,
For DR650 parts in Europe try Hessler:
http://www.hessler-motorsport.de/sit...d=45&Itemid=75

They have a really good selection of DR parts.

The 110 chain will be fine going to a 43T rear sprocket. No problem. You could also use a 14T front sprocket ... will help to give you lower gearing.

In any case, buy NEW sprockets when you buy your NEW chain. If you do commuting and lots of kms, I recommend the 525 DID X-Ring VM-2 chain. It's very strong and worth the extra money. Will last OVER 20,000 miles
(30K kms)

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 01-07-2012 at 09:55 AM
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:52 AM   #58717
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtn Man View Post
Hey guys need a little wisdom from those with more DR experience. My buddy and I are noticing some issues with the DR popping out of 2nd gear from time to time. It happens to me mostly when farting around in the mountains but my buddy is now experiencing the problem while riding to work. Thoughts? Problem? The reason I ask one of our friends was changing his oil a couple weeks ago and found a metal shaving on his mag oil plug ... long story short it appears to be a gear issue and now a major repair is under way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
See if the shifter is hitting the case when you shift. May have bent it or the shift shaft. Or may just have to reposition the lever.
Rusty's point above is very important. This exact thing happened to a friend who thought sure the Trans was toast. I took one minute to straighten the shift lever ... problem went away! Trans was perfect!

When you fall ... lever gets pushed into case ... interfering with shifting.
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #58718
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckett View Post
What are the equations? With a estimation of sprung weight, we could plug in the min and max of the frequency range to derive the spring rate range one should be considering.
Wheel rate in kg/mm=Wf/248.5 where W= laden sprung weight in kg and f= desired natural frequency in Hz. Spring rate in kg/mm=(0.5Cos)(wheel rate) where is the rake angle in degrees.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:31 AM   #58719
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Wheel rate in kg/mm=Wf/248.5 where W= laden sprung weight in kg and f= desired natural frequency in Hz. Spring rate in kg/mm=(0.5Cos)(wheel rate) where is the rake angle in degrees.

Regards,

Derek
That hurts. What is a # that would be a value for desired rate? ( what are we shootin' for?)
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:46 AM   #58720
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
That hurts.
It's not really that hard.
Quote:
What is a # that would be a value for desired rate? ( what are we shootin' for?)
As mentioned previously (see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=58842), it's known that a resonant frequency in the range of 1-2.5 Hz is optimal. Available travel and individual preference plays into determining the exact number (less available travel requires a higher frequency).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:57 PM   #58721
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Bent shifter or foot brake

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Rusty's point above is very important. This exact thing happened to a friend who thought sure the Trans was toast. I took one minute to straighten the shift lever ... problem went away! Trans was perfect!

When you fall ... lever gets pushed into case ... interfering with shifting.
Oh yes, this does happen, especially way out in the woods. My tool kit includes a 10" adjustable wrench to gently bend those levers back to original shape. Works for me.

Dave
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:23 PM   #58722
BKLYNBullit
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valve train noise

Hey fellas,
Just did the first service valve adjustment on my new (2011) DR. The exhausts needed only minor tweaking but both intakes were so tight they needed two to three complete turns each before I could slip the gauge in. It's a wonder to me that the engine could function in that state.
Well, I got it to spec and the And the valve clatter is now very pronounced. This is something I've come to associate with a healthy running pushrod single (my RE Bullet in particular), but is it normal for the DR's?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Chuck.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:34 PM   #58723
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
i've tried to find a thread on this, but no luck.

so the stock rear tire for the DR is a 120. many people move up to the 130 size. some people try to jam a 140 or 150 in there as i've heard.

is there a real advantage to a bigger/fatter tire when offroading, or do people just think it looks awesomer?

if you know of a thread on this, don't hesitate to flame me!

The 130 is a common size and it works fine. I don't waste HP on large rear tires, I ran a 130 TKC-80 because there was no 120 available. 120/90/17 tires usually are cheaper so, I'll run them in a Shinko 705 for example.

Other tires come in 5.10 or 130 for a better price... The rim is narrow though, the 120 or 130 works the best.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:41 PM   #58724
ChromeSux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKLYNBullit View Post
Hey fellas,
Just did the first service valve adjustment on my new (2011) DR. The exhausts needed only minor tweaking but both intakes were so tight they needed two to three complete turns each before I could slip the gauge in. It's a wonder to me that the engine could function in that state.
Well, I got it to spec and the And the valve clatter is now very pronounced. This is something I've come to associate with a healthy running pushrod single (my RE Bullet in particular), but is it normal for the DR's?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Chuck.
You put the motor on TDC on the wrong stroke, turn the motor over and watch for the intake valves to open then close then rotate till TDC and adjust, my friend did the same thing then called me all worried, i went over to see and that was all that was wrong.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:43 PM   #58725
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKLYNBullit View Post
Hey fellas,
Just did the first service valve adjustment on my new (2011) DR. The exhausts needed only minor tweaking but both intakes were so tight they needed two to three complete turns each before I could slip the gauge in. It's a wonder to me that the engine could function in that state.
Well, I got it to spec and the And the valve clatter is now very pronounced. This is something I've come to associate with a healthy running pushrod single (my RE Bullet in particular), but is it normal for the DR's?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Chuck.
There is valve clatter normally, just make sure you found the correct TDC. Both sets of valves should be slightly loose at TDC with the T mark in the window and the piston all the way up. Sounds like you did not find TDC.

In my experience the intake is usually fine and the exhaust is tight. My intake was fine on the last three checks. I've adjusted the exhaust twice in 16,000 miles. My valves were on the loose end of the spec on the first check at 5800 miles my intake felt the same and the exhaust was really tight. The next check was fine. My valves have settled down I think.
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