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Old 01-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #58861
kbuckey
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Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by causef0rconcern View Post
Hey all, suspension question real quick...

I'm about to order a front end "solution kit" from the trusty folks at Procycle. I'm not sure whether I should order straight rate springs or progressive. The fellow at the company recommended .6 or .7 straight rates, based on the information given to him: I'm about 170lbs, I ride very aggressively on and off road, and I often have two panniers FULL of crap.

My question is: Will the straight rates be punishing on pavement in the city? I'm usually told progressive is the way to go. I'm just kind of braindead/ignorant when it comes to suspension, so I'm not fully aware of what I'll be sacrificing/gaining by choosing whichever spring.

For reference, the front suspension is stock on a 2009 with 16k miles. I'm tired of bottoming out off-road...thats the biggest problem. I had a umm...minor engine problem due to that early on in the bikes life. Word to the wise - Make sure you use the proper bolts to attach your skidplates. If you put in the wrong ones, and they are a thread too long, and you bottom out over and over again on a dual sport trip 2000 miles from home, the bolt will punch a hole in your case...

Quicksteel. Trailside fix. 13,000 miles later, I don't lose a DROP of oil from the patch.
Per a recommendation from ProCycle I went with straight rate springs - I don much more street than dirt and I love the front end feel on the street. Also have Intiminators and a Wilber's rear shock. Note that straight rate springs were NOT recommended with the Intiminators but I found there was still too much initial compliance. Anyway I love my current combination for street riding.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:56 AM   #58862
doug s.
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Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
Hi Sarah!
I know that, but I'm not based in the USA...
Not too familiar on making overseas call!

If there were some sort of email link, maybe it will help... hmmm
suck it up and pay the $125 for this tsukigi aluminum can:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290574579577
or email the seller to see if he will work out a better deal for you - it's been f/a for a few months... i got a titanium iteration and it's a great muffler...



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Old 01-11-2012, 09:28 AM   #58863
TrophyHunter
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PC Solution Kits - .50 straight rate with emulators, 8.3 with Gold Valve. 240 lbs riding, moderately aggressive offroad. Great handling & no bottoming.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:03 AM   #58864
procycle
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If you ride agressively off road the progressive springs will not be enough. They're great for on-road comfort for easy to moderate riding. Once you start hammering on it you need something stiffer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by causef0rconcern View Post
Hey all, suspension question real quick...

I'm about to order a front end "solution kit" from the trusty folks at Procycle. I'm not sure whether I should order straight rate springs or progressive. The fellow at the company recommended .6 or .7 straight rates, based on the information given to him: I'm about 170lbs, I ride very aggressively on and off road, and I often have two panniers FULL of crap.

My question is: Will the straight rates be punishing on pavement in the city? I'm usually told progressive is the way to go. I'm just kind of braindead/ignorant when it comes to suspension, so I'm not fully aware of what I'll be sacrificing/gaining by choosing whichever spring.

For reference, the front suspension is stock on a 2009 with 16k miles. I'm tired of bottoming out off-road...thats the biggest problem. I had a umm...minor engine problem due to that early on in the bikes life. Word to the wise - Make sure you use the proper bolts to attach your skidplates. If you put in the wrong ones, and they are a thread too long, and you bottom out over and over again on a dual sport trip 2000 miles from home, the bolt will punch a hole in your case...

Quicksteel. Trailside fix. 13,000 miles later, I don't lose a DROP of oil from the patch.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:13 AM   #58865
ct-ktm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by causef0rconcern View Post
For reference, the front suspension is stock on a 2009 with 16k miles. I'm tired of bottoming out off-road...thats the biggest problem. I had a umm...minor engine problem due to that early on in the bikes life. Word to the wise - Make sure you use the proper bolts to attach your skidplates. If you put in the wrong ones, and they are a thread too long, and you bottom out over and over again on a dual sport trip 2000 miles from home, the bolt will punch a hole in your case...

Quicksteel. Trailside fix. 13,000 miles later, I don't lose a DROP of oil from the patch.
Damm I now know this happened to another Dr....I will never have a bolt holdoing that part of my shidplate on the bike again.I have used zipties for the back for a while now.. I even had washers to keep the end form sticking out..there is just not enough clearence..
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:39 AM   #58866
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post

And IMHO rider weight is not a criteria for chain adjustment, its the alignment of the countershaft, swing arm pivot, and axle that determines the longest distance, and the chain needs to be adjusted accordingly. If a heavy rider is aboard and the swingarm sits above this line then the distance shortens. An over tight chain not only prematurely wears cs and wheel/cush bearings and the chain and sprockets, it compromises the suspension performance.

Steve
But if the chain is already TOO TIGHT ... and a very heavy rider gets on board, he will compress the suspension fully, which will tighten the chain even more ... stressing all the things you list above. Alignment has little to do with it at this point. A lighter rider will not compress things as much ... thus less stress on the over tightened chain.

The alignment issues effect wear and smoothness and should be checked when adjusting the chain ... but chain slack is the KEY element here. You can still have a TOO TIGHT chain even when all alignment is perfect. I use the Snail adjusters first, then fine tune with alignment tool. Seems to work.
24K miles on last chain. All original bearings at 44K miles.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 01-11-2012 at 10:49 AM
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:35 AM   #58867
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
I guess wheelspin on demand and regularly returning the front tyre to the ground has a negative effect on tyre life.


It's a good problem to have
Well, the second does tend to increase front tire life.
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:40 AM   #58868
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I get 1000-200miles from a rear knobby on my DR and about 2000 from the front. I run a Kenda 130/90-17 rear TrakMaster II and on the front a tire I feel no one seems to know about, but fantastic in the real slimy going: a Bridgestone ED-03
I've been running Vulcanduros on both the 690 and 450 and love them. Get decent life and handle good on road and work well off road. I'm sure that's what I'll go with on the DR.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:08 PM   #58869
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i took the stock spacer and cut it down a small bit (to accommodate for the thickness of the intiminator body that is now sitting in their too) and end up with 13mm of preload.

unless i'm having a suspension brain fart that is how much the cap sits above the top of the upper suspension tube, with all the pieces (springs, washers, intiminators etc) in place and the upper tube fully extended.

it sits 13mm above it finally screwed in place and thus when i screw it down, it snugs down 13mm. that's how i understand preload.

is that correct anyone?

sounds like i have a slightly heavy spring and too much preload per all i have read.
Sounds right to me. At 13mm of preload the top of the spacer will be sitting about 1/4" below the top of the fork tube (fully extended).

Before you spend more $$ on other springs I suggest you lower the oil level in your forks. I'd suck out about 1" or so and see how it works.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:35 PM   #58870
Sourjon
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Anybody have a black stock seat in good shape they want to part with? Or even a black aftermarket seat? I'm selling my DR and it has a Russell on it that a buddy wants but I need a replacement.

John
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:41 PM   #58871
Aerocycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
HiJincs had some very bad luck. Man, that is nasty.
But I don't believe DR650 rear wheel bearings/Hubb are "notorious" for failing. In fact, very few reports of this here among the hundreds of DR's we hear about.

An Aussie guy or two have had them go ... and maybe a few more. Not really common from my dim memory over the last few years.

But if you have some "wiggle" on the sprocket, you should take a look and cop a feel on those bearings (3). I'm betting new Cush Rubbers would solve your problems 100%. Cush rubbers always seem to "look" normal. But I change them anyway and it really has helped. They only stay tight for 10K to 15K miles ... or so.

There is a reason Suzuki use open face wheel bearings. (open on one side) This allows them to be cleaned and re-packed. Sealed bearings don't allow this ... and once water or crud get in, you're sunk. Can you tell I just got a tutorial from my "bearing expert" neighbor? He sells grease for a major supplier to food service processors. Bearings and grease are his life. (former Chevron chemist)

His take:
If you clean (best you can) and re-grease your bearings at every tire change, most times you should be OK for many years. But always try to give them a good feel ... make sure they feel smooth, no roughness or looseness.

It's hard to get to the inner Hubb bearing. I use a "poker" to dab on a bit of fresh grease. Never over pack your bearings, don't go crazy.

There are always exceptions. Much depends on use.

Things that are hard on wheel/Hubb bearings:
1. Lots of river/stream crossings or beach riding.
2. Constant rain riding.
3, Heavy loads chugging over steep, rough ground, especially two up.
4. An over tight chain. NOTE: A heavy rider may be compressing the suspension enough to make chain TOO TIGHT ... Not good.* Tight chain is hard on the hubb bearing, countershaft bearing too.

*So have someone check chain slack with YOU on the bike, feet up. When you're off the bike the chain may appear a bit loose. No worries.
Thanks for the response on this stuff. Looks like it's time for me to tear into the rear end of things. I'm expecting the cush rubbers are old, and I'll have to see how the bearings look. Is it best to clean the bearings with some solvent like brake/carb cleaner? or perhaps kerosene? Then re-grease with waterproof tacky grease. What happens when you over grease them? I've done a few wheel bearings in my life but it's always just been packing in by hand till it looks good. How else could i do it?
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:42 PM   #58872
Dravintoad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i'd just spend the $ on a 5gal IMS tank and keep all your gas in 1 spot.
Thanks but - I like my stock tank, rarely need the extra gas and don't want to spend alot of money on a huge tank I don't want. I've been using an MSR can for extra fuel, but want just a little more with an easy way to transport it.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:47 PM   #58873
Dravintoad
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
+1 on this. I had my Fuel Pack Jr. mounted in the same manner on my DR350SE (using the left passenger peg mounts). I fell on a particularly rocky trail in the Georgetown CO vicinity. I promptly holed my Fuel Pack and watched about a gallon of gas dribble out onto the rocks. Fortunately I didn't need it, to get where I was going. But, it would have sucked if I had to rely on the extra mileage the Fuel Pack capacity provided. Mount it on your rear rack, where it has a fighting chance of surviving a fall or go with a bigger main tank.
This is one thing I am concerned about and the main reason I don't buy some cheap tank to strap to the rear.

I'm still think I can mount it straight to the rear fender where the crossbar is underneath. I haven't seen it done, so I guess i may be the first.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:55 PM   #58874
Dravintoad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I mean I don't even get 3.5K miles out of a Pilot Road on my Strom. Never come close to 3K on ANY 50/50 dual sport tire I've ever tried. Never got 1.5K out of any knobbie. Now I just picked up a DR and even if I can get twice the milage on it that I get out of a tire on my 690 or my 450 EXC that still won't even come anywhere close to what you're getting

Albie, I know for a fact that has to do with your right hand only having an on/off position. Heavy on the ON.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:10 PM   #58875
cemory
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Question Stock tool kit

Has anyone else noticed that in some photos the stock DR650 tool kit is mounted towards the rear of the frame where in other photos it is mounted further forward under the left side cover. It seems logical that it should be mounted further forward under the left side cover ( mine came this way from the dealer), but does anyone know where the "proper" mounting is? I quess it works in either position but it seems like it can be more prone to damage when mounted in the rearward position. Just wondering?


Chris in Topeka
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