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Old 01-10-2012, 04:34 PM   #58861
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dravintoad View Post
After doing a little research trying to find a Rotopax mounting options, I came across this and really like the way this has been mounted. Has anyone else done this? and/or Had any problems with this set-up? (passenger peg removed and rotopax mounted in its place)
I'd MUCH prefer an IMS or Safari tank to that. My IMS gets me around 250 miles/tank, and it doesn't get damaged WHEN I dump the DR. I can still haul a passenger with tank panniers and rear panniers on too. Filled with just 3.5gal, it's lighter than stock, and it's small enough that I don't notice having a bigger tank between my legs in the dirt.

The only real complaint I have about the IMS is trying to find a locking cap that vents well.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:35 PM   #58862
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
i believe your right. gotta whittle a bit i suppose. i have one as well, but havent used it yet.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:01 PM   #58863
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
To each their own I guess but that thing looks like a throat cutting device waiting to happen IMO... Just too close to the rider's face.

You're going to have to ride through a puddle/pot-hole full of water of undetermined depth at some point even on many road rides... You're going to end up in a situation where the best course of action is going to be UP ON THE PEGS. At times the front end may even come up a little more abruptly than you'd thought it would... What I'm getting at it the fact that a windshield that close to the face could take an everyday, no big deal bump in the road surprise, and turn it in to a hard smack in the chin or neck that knock the rider right off the back or out cold. IMO a windshield on a DR should be out in front of the number plate or not there at all.
You can always take a wind shield off and stash it if the going gets rough or steep.

No big deal. I even use hard bags...
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:11 PM   #58864
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:25 PM   #58865
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.
Yes. My question to you: is the one hole (arrow) ovaled on your Yamaha throttle tube? I didn't like the way the cable end fit in that hole and that's how I received it.



Thinking the plastic would be rubbery, lilke a fender, I intended to work the chisel in from the top first and then snip off the piece from the right. But, the plastic is really hard, and after a couple of taps with a mallet (from the top), the piece snapped off like glass. I'm lucky it broke about where I wanted. Point is, don't use a chisel. obtw: I put the tube back on the handlebar before using the chisel, I didn't want to break the tube itself.



fwiw: Note how much closer the cable ends are to the o.d. of the tube. That surface is what the throttle stops rest against (open, closed). If forced (hard bump or landing), the throttle might over rotate. I think it was Bkoz that mentioned it some time ago because it happened to him. His theory was discounted as unlikely, but I think it's possible. Since there is a push and pull cable, I'm thinking that untwisting the over-run stop, will be simple. If it happens, you'll know what's going on.

The Yamaha tube is on the left, stock on the right.



I really like the result of a quicker throttle. I don't have to drop my elbow for full throttle. This makes me faster out of every turn (safely, dammit), it gets me to WFO easily and without the rolling my hand forward on the grip frequently. This may only make me 5% faster, but it's effortless, no thinking about it. And my buddies won't have to wait as long. If I have to explain it, you wouldn't understand. Not you JagLite, you obviously get it.

And: the two screws holding the throttle tube are different lengths, the long one goes on top. I recommend stainles allen head replacements. They're 5 x .08 mm thread, one is 25mm and the other is 20mm long.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-11-2012 at 10:31 AM
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:36 PM   #58866
HiJincs
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Cumming, Jawja
Oddometer: 630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
There's 3 bearings in the rear. Check you sprocket carrier bearing. They don't have a seal on the inside and are notorious for getting gunked up and failing.

I lost my entire swingarm when mine went.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:49 PM   #58867
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckychucky View Post
Your right on all accounts. I only get to die once. I hope it cuts my head clean off Seriously, most of my riding is within city limits. It's is a little awkward, but I can deal with it until the end. But, I do agree with you on all of your points. If I didn't have to change all the cables, I'd already have ape hangers right behind the windshield. I feel like the DR stock kinda rides like a mild cafe racer. I wear a full face helmet, maybe it will save me from some of the windshield damage. Hopefully. Very good points.
while my windscreen and headlight assembly are a little different than yours, they're wery similar - i see no reason why you couldn't mount your windscreen in front of, instead of behind the headlight assembly:


doug s.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:55 PM   #58868
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJincs View Post
There's 3 bearings in the rear. Check you sprocket carrier bearing. They don't have a seal on the inside and are notorious for getting gunked up and failing.

I lost my entire swingarm when mine went.
HiJincs had some very bad luck. Man, that is nasty.
But I don't believe DR650 rear wheel bearings/Hubb are "notorious" for failing. In fact, very few reports of this here among the hundreds of DR's we hear about.

An Aussie guy or two have had them go ... and maybe a few more. Not really common from my dim memory over the last few years.

But if you have some "wiggle" on the sprocket, you should take a look and cop a feel on those bearings (3). I'm betting new Cush Rubbers would solve your problems 100%. Cush rubbers always seem to "look" normal. But I change them anyway and it really has helped. They only stay tight for 10K to 15K miles ... or so.

There is a reason Suzuki use open face wheel bearings. (open on one side) This allows them to be cleaned and re-packed. Sealed bearings don't allow this ... and once water or crud get in, you're sunk. Can you tell I just got a tutorial from my "bearing expert" neighbor? He sells grease for a major supplier to food service processors. Bearings and grease are his life. (former Chevron chemist)

His take:
If you clean (best you can) and re-grease your bearings at every tire change, most times you should be OK for many years. But always try to give them a good feel ... make sure they feel smooth, no roughness or looseness.

It's hard to get to the inner Hubb bearing. I use a "poker" to dab on a bit of fresh grease. Never over pack your bearings, don't go crazy.

There are always exceptions. Much depends on use.

Things that are hard on wheel/Hubb bearings:
1. Lots of river/stream crossings or beach riding.
2. Constant rain riding.
3, Heavy loads chugging over steep, rough ground, especially two up.
4. An over tight chain. NOTE: A heavy rider may be compressing the suspension enough to make chain TOO TIGHT ... Not good.* Tight chain is hard on the hubb bearing, countershaft bearing too.

*So have someone check chain slack with YOU on the bike, feet up. When you're off the bike the chain may appear a bit loose. No worries.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:14 PM   #58869
Paddle007
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: S.E. Louisiana
Oddometer: 296
Just replaced my rear wheel bearings. Approximately 12k miles. Very little water, not enough off road and I am pretty anal about proper chain adjustment. My cushions are getting hard and a little sloppy. Kind of questioned if lose cushions contribute to bearing failure. With only a single bearing in the hub it seems like a lot of load on it. I will replace my cushions everytime I replace my bearings FWIW, Just my two cents.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:22 PM   #58870
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,119
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I bought a nice new Yamaha R6 throttle tube as recommended by several riders.
It decreases the rotation required to go to full throttle.
I only was able to try it on a couple rides before winter arrived with lots of snow but I was pleased with the improvement.

However, while reinstalling my carb after doing the Procycle jet kit, I discovered the "quick throttle" does NOT open the carb fully. I mean that when the cable is tight I can still rotate the cam another 1/4" or so. Yes, the other (close) cable is loose, it is not stopping the throttle.

My guess is that I need to file away some of the plastic on the throttle tube that acts as the stop so that it will rotated more.

Has anyone else noticed this or have this problem? I don't remember reading of it before.

I see it was anwsered better in a post above.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:28 PM   #58871
keenerkeen
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Oddometer: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
You are kidding with that windshield, right?
must be kidding
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:30 PM   #58872
gumbometer
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Joined: Dec 2010
Oddometer: 32
GSXR x40f0x muffler

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
Thanks...

Anyone knows of anywhere that i can find a used GSXR1k Muffler?
Tried Ebay but couldnt find anything there...
I ordered one from this place after reading about it on drriders.com (after scouring craigslist and ebay for a few months):

"For those looking for this pipe, here is a source that claims to be able to get them with realitive ease. It's where I got mine for $75 plus shipping.

M.I.D.S. Cycle Salvage
Sumter, SC
803-773-3535
ask for Shane

I have no connection to them other then the fact it's where I found mine. Just thought it might help anyone out that has been looking.

Dan"

http://drriders.com/topic2998.html

Shane was the one that answered when I called, and he seemed to have no shortage of those mufflers. He was aware that DR650 owners are looking for them, too.

Good luck -- I hope you find one!
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:34 PM   #58873
speedmaster
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Oddometer: 571
Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
So I have been riding with my new FMF powerbomb and see that it gets much hotter (or so it appears) than what I was used to with the stock muffler. It scares me a little but runs purrrrrrfect and have seen a nice low end power increase. Not to mention wheelie heaven! So I was thinking about wrapping the muffler, but don't know if this will increase engine heat or not. As it stands now the vapor shows temps nearing 310 degrees when idling and when really on an uphill push for extended periods. What are some thoughts here about the wrap? Any ideas? Has anyone done this before with the same exhaust? Thanks in advance John
I don’t think wrapping the exhaust header would lower cylinder head temperatures. It might make the pipe feel cooler and seem cooler but the heat would have to be conducted through an additional medium versus the bare metal pipe.
My 2009 DR frequently runs at 300 and sometimes hits 320 at sustained revs on 80+ degree days. It would be interesting to hear from others who use a cylinder head temp gauge and have noted operating temperatures.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #58874
keenerkeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neepuk View Post
You are kidding with that windshield, right?
could be dangerous ..mounting a bit far back for riding off road

keenerkeen screwed with this post 01-10-2012 at 07:59 PM
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:30 PM   #58875
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,035
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Sooo.... I went for a ride all over today, it was so nice out! I went up some pretty beat up logging roads and the bike did great! Especially considering I am 250lb suited up, and have stock suspension.

When I got home, I just happened to grab my rear sprocket and it has a little side to side play. Does that mean it's Cush rubber time? I have read a lot of you guys posting about them. I haven't touched the rear tire/sprocket since I bought the bike, I've just been maintaining the chain. So yay/nay? Cush Rubbers? Or something else? Or is a little side to side play okay....
They are not unknown to fail, and it can be near catastrophic when they do. Not hard, or expensive, to change sooner rather than later.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post15720809

I ended up with a double row bearing that outlasts the original, but still got the wobbles after a while.

And IMHO rider weight is not a criteria for chain adjustment, its the alignment of the countershaft, swing arm pivot, and axle that determines the longest distance, and the chain needs to be adjusted accordingly. If a heavy rider is aboard and the swingarm sits above this line then the distance shortens. An over tight chain not only prematurely wears cs and wheel/cush bearings and the chain and sprockets, it compromises the suspension performance.

Steve
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