the DR650 thread

[BKLYNBullit]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

by the way, more fun to ride. Keep the air cleaner clean, the chain adjusted and the oil fresh and you shouldn't have to do much else for 10,000 miles. ('cept the farkling)

She sure is. What a sweet handling machine I've admired DR's for years. Their riders just seemed to know a secret that other riders didn't. Now I know. I love my Bullet too and for many of the same reasons. Light, simple, and just the right amount of power to be fun AND useful. The Bullet is a more fiddly bike however, but that's due more to it's vintage architecture than any "flaws". Just the nature of the beast. All in all they compliment each other well to this rider.
Oh, and I'm a stickler for that basic stuff.
Chuck.

[luckychucky]

DR650 with old Givi I had laying around. Ready to get plates and insurance Monday. You will be seeing me around this thread more often. Thanks for convincing me I needed one, like I needed another motorcycle. Thanks ALOT!

[sauerquint]

Originally Posted by Mongle

I haven't seen anything for bikes. They are quite common in the marine world for boats. Al Tuna is correct- most by-pass the cooler until they reach a certain temp (usually 200-215 degrees on boats) then run the oil through the cooler.

Check this out to get an idea. This is a marine version- little big for a bike About 6" x 4" and uses 3/4" lines!

http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...l&p=11977&c=50


I found the one we usually use- it could be adapted to a bike and is a little smaller then eddie marines. They cost about $225. Work great on everything we have put them on.

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-14580...12-degree.aspx


I wouldn't probably mess with my DR (seems to work fine the way it is) but if I was: I would use an electric fan on a thermo switch. The fan would block some of the airflow and help with warm up but then would come on and cool. I thought about it when I was in NV at 100 degrees and going only 5 mph over rocks. I would have liked to had the fan to help cool.

Try these: http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by doug s.

is this manual really better than the "DR650-SE-96-02" manual that is readily awailable on line at no cost? i'd think that even bikes made after 02 could still use this manual.

thanks,

doug s.

I downloaded the manual first and I have no idea if it is missing any info that is in the factory paper manual.
I just find it much easier to work my way through an unfamiliar job when i can flip through the pages, make notes, and so on. I need all the help I can get...

[Putzy]

So I found a local guy who is selling a 2000 DR650SE, basically stock with aftermarket slip-on. He says it is in great condition, and runs well. Forget what he said was mileage, though i think it was around 10,000. Asking price is $2600.

This is the best deal I have found on a DR650, though most have been much newer, and over $4000. I know very little about the bike, and this would be my first dual sport. I looked at some new ones at the local dealer, but really don't want to spend that much and dislike buying new anyway.

So my question is, is this a decent price for the age of the bike? I am going to go look at it tomorrow after work. Short notice I know, but any thoughts on price, or what problem areas I should look at, are very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Andrew

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by Putzy

So I found a local guy who is selling a 2000 DR650SE, basically stock with aftermarket slip-on. He says it is in great condition, and runs well. Forget what he said was mileage, though i think it was around 10,000. Asking price is $2600.

This is the best deal I have found on a DR650, though most have been much newer, and over $4000. I know very little about the bike, and this would be my first dual sport. I looked at some new ones at the local dealer, but really don't want to spend that much and dislike buying new anyway.

So my question is, is this a decent price for the age of the bike? I am going to go look at it tomorrow after work. Short notice I know, but any thoughts on price, or what problem areas I should look at, are very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Andrew

In my opinion,it is about spot on for what I have found around my area.I really don't look at the year when I consider bikes.I look at over all condition and if proper maintenance has been done.If a bike is over 10 years old,I start to take it's age into account.I'm in it for the fun not for an investment.I would try to get it closer to $2000.An 08 with less than 10,000 miles just sold from a local dealer for $3895 with full maintenance and new tires.The bike looked like it had never left the driveway.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by BKLYNBullit

Allright here's how it went.
Yesterday, after 830 miles I did a valve check. As it turned out I was referencing the completely wrong mark on the rotor. There is a punch mark that I was looking at and not the "T". This despite having the service manual right in front of me. Just stupid. As the valves seemed to be closed I just bulled ahead and set the clearances. She started right up and I rode the 50 miles home from my friends garage that I was borrowing.
After reading your replies to my first post I did some serious second guessing and opened it all up again this morning. Ahhh... there's the"T". Reset gaps, buttoned her up, hit the starter, and nothing. The best I could get was about 5 seconds before she would just stop. WTF?
By this point, the battery was cranked out so I bring it upstairs and put it on the charger. Yeah, I'm doing this all on the sidewalk outside my apartment building. You guys with garages...
By now it's dawning on me what I did wrong. I'm very slow. Reading a few more replies, only confirms.
Back at square one, I carefully watch the rockers go up and down and this time get the crank in the right spot. Re,re set the clearances to a fare thee well (I'm getting fast at this part now!) re assemble and hit the starter. Joy. She jumps to life in a nano second and settles into a steady if tappetty idle. Which brings me back to my original question of how loud is normal? On my Enfield, loud valves are healthy valves, but on the DR, I dunno.
By the way, the bike is fun and easy to work on.
Thanks again to all who took the time to yell at me.
Chuck.

You did good Chuck ... you're learning fast I don't know how much experience you have setting valve lash .... but experience and "feel" can help. The DR650 valve gear is fairly quiet, as are most "modern" Japanese top ends ... even singles. It will make a bit of noise ... no way to quantify that here ... but quieter than an Enfield I would think.
EDIT:
Remember ... Suzuki calls for a RANGE on both intake and exhaust.
Intake: .08mm to .013mm
Exhaust: .017mm to .022mm

Since the DR valve gear is so stable ... I prefer to set lash on the "snug" side of the given range. This is up for debate ... but it's how Suzuki set them at the factory, where many bikes come set at minimum spec. Clearance is Clearance!!

My settings are: EDIT
Intake: .010mm
Exhaust: .019mm

I like to feel quite a bit of "Drag" on the feeler gauge as I slide it under in the gap. The next size up should NOT go in. Don't strip out the nuts when you tighten them down.

Good luck, sounds like you're close to being an expert at this.

[goodcat8]

Originally Posted by vfr870

I believe Procycle mentioned (somewhere in this thread) he can get the bracket seperate from the kit if needed.

Awesome, thanks much.

[BKLYNBullit]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

You did good Chuck ... you're learning fast I don't know how much experience you have setting valve lash .... but experience and "feel" can help. The DR650 valve gear is fairly quiet, as are most "modern" Japanese top ends ... even singles. It will make a bit of noise ... no way to quantify that here ... but quieter than an Enfield I would think.

Remember ... Suzuki calls for a RANGE on both intake and exhaust.
Intake: .08mm to 13mm
Exhaust: 17mm to 22mm

Since the DR valve gear is so stable ... I prefer to set lash on the "snug" side of the given range. This is up for debate ... but it's how Suzuki set them at the factory, where many bikes come set at minimum spec. Clearance is Clearance!!

My settings are:
Intake: 10mm
Exhaust: 19mm

I like to feel quite a bit of "Drag" on the feeler gauge as I slide it under in the gap. The next size up should NOT go in. Don't strip out the nuts when you tighten them down.

Good luck, sounds like you're close to being an expert at this.

ADV Grifter,
My manual has it at:
Intake: .003 - .005
Exhaust: .007 - .009 That's in inches.

So I did .004 and .008 respectively.
In each case I made sure that the next size up would no go. Until I have more experience with what this bike likes, that's the best I can do.
With the Bullet, it's all by feel. No gauges involved. Since it's pushrods, you set for free spin and no up and down play. As the valvetrain warms the clearances open up and you get that characteristic tappet sound beloved by Bulleteers the world over.
Chuck

[BKLYNBullit]

Originally Posted by JagLite

I downloaded the manual first and I have no idea if it is missing any info that is in the factory paper manual.
I just find it much easier to work my way through an unfamiliar job when i can flip through the pages, make notes, and so on. I need all the help I can get...

That manual was the very first "accessory" that I bought.

[Dravintoad]

After doing a little research trying to find a Rotopax mounting options, I came across this and really like the way this has been mounted. Has anyone else done this? and/or Had any problems with this set-up? (passenger peg removed and rotopax mounted in its place)

Originally Posted by Rasthomas

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Edited.

[Aerocycle]

This is really tempting me....

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/bar/2789813074.html

[996DL]

Originally Posted by BKLYNBullit

ADV Grifter,
My manual has it at:
Intake: .003 - .005
Exhaust: .007 - .009 That's in inches.

So I did .004 and .008 respectively.
In each case I made sure that the next size up would no go. Until I have more experience with what this bike likes, that's the best I can do.

Must resist overusing smilies to indicate yelling, seeing as how you're apparently ok with it....

A four stroke requires two complete revolutions 360' x 2 = 720' to fully complete a firing cycle. That's why the tdc mark will appear twice, with the piston coming up on the compression stroke, indicating the correct of the two revolutions, while approaching the tdc mark.

Remembering that the DR's head, tends to accumulate a rat's nest of debris around the two spark plugs,
I clean this area "Fully Completely" like the Tragically Hip , and remove one plug so I can verify the escaping pressure, indicating the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, making it easier than watching the sequence, of the intake and exhaust rockers cycling.

Upon arriving at the correct tdc, I expect to be able to easily "wiggle" both intake and exhaust rockers.
I also appreciate the ease of rotating and postitioning the motor, with one of the plugs out, without working against compression forces.

Despite the 96+ DR650 being known as holding clearances extremely well over extended periods, what with good materials and relatively small and lightweight valve train dimensions, I agree with your setting the gap to middle range ! Even on an exceptional motor, it gives room for the valves to settle in and allows an easy mindset, with adopting long intervals between inspections...

When finished, I rotate the motor several times, find the correct tdc mark and double check the clearances, one last time...

996DL

[Aerocycle]

Originally Posted by Dravintoad

After doing a little research trying to find a Rotopax mounting options, I came across this and really like the way this has been mounted. Has anyone else done this? and/or Had any problems with this set-up? (passenger peg removed and rotopax mounted in its place)

That's a neat setup, but I am curious as to how that is mounted let alone how it would interfere with riding...

I'm a bit cheap when it come to extending my range, and saw this 3 gallon fuel tank in cabelas for about $30. Seems to me like it would work out great, strap it to a rack on the back of your bike. Just my thought...

Link to it's webpage:
http://www.moellermarine.com/afterma...topside_tanks/