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Old 01-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #58921
996DL
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There's a remapped ecm included, in ProCycle's dohc upgrade kit, kinda pricey though...

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:52 PM   #58922
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Exactly right ... but your missing my point. I'm talking about a heavy rider on a bike NOT set up for his weight. AS IN: the 300 lb. rider in question here on stock suspension. Add to this a chain adjusted a bit snug at a standstill (no rider on bike ... a mistake many make) then he rides off, never realizing how tight the chain gets as it goes through it's travel.
Actually I get your point but I don't think you are correct.
But you are missing my point. A light rider on a bike set up the same way - stock suspension and too tight chain - will still push through the 'tight zone' of the chain geometry. It doesn't matter what the rider weighs. The heavy rider will just push the suspension further past the tight zone on into the loose chain zone approaching full compression.

That point where the chain is tightest is right around 5" of travel. That's about half way through the 10" of DR suspension travel. Only the very lightest most timid rider would only use 4" of rear suspension travel. Now if that tight point was at 8" of travel you would be correct - but that is not the case.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:03 PM   #58923
luckett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Exactly right ... but your missing my point. I'm talking about a heavy rider on a bike NOT set up for his weight. AS IN: the 300 lb. rider in question here on stock suspension. Add to this a chain adjusted a bit snug at a standstill (no rider on bike ... a mistake many make) then he rides off, never realizing how tight the chain gets as it goes through it's travel.
It doesn't matter if the rider is heavy or light. It doesn't matter if the suspension is properly set up for the riders weight or not. If the chain is too tight for a particular rider, it's too tight for all riders. If the chain is too loose for a particular rider, it's too loose for all riders. Rider weight and bike setup are not variables that have anything to do with proper chain tension. The proper chain tension is a function of the static geometry of the arc of the swingarm and it's relationship to the distance between the axle and drive shaft.
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:58 PM   #58924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
How many riders do you see who are running their chain too tight? I see plenty ... and I see so called "expert" mechanics releasing bikes back to customers with chain set too tight.
.
I've seen plenty. A recent example was on a Husky that had not long had its first service at the dealer so as to maintain the 24 mth warranty. I first noticed the issue when the chain actually broke on a trail ride. Luckily for us all I carry some master links and a bit of spare chain, and a breaker.

I've found over the years that people that routinely adjust their chains are routinely over tightening them. Modern chains are amazing things and rarely need tightening if properly maintained. And the need for tightening implies wear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
FWIW...

There are a bunch of variables missing from that diagram when discussing a bike with long travel suspension... Upper and lower rollers, the swing arm slider, the fixed rear chain guide and different sprocket sizes (and how they affect otherwise fixed geometry) seem to be completely ignored. Any interaction between the chain through the suspension travel and these unmentioned variables (one is guaranteed) is going to effectively increase tension / reduce slack at that point in the suspension travel and the only way to know for certain where the chains tightest point is and the affect of those other variables is through detailed analysis or by measurement while compressing the suspension through its entire travel.

Maybe the interactions are not strong enough to have a significant affect so the straight line holds true for the DR, but has anyone here tested it properly?
The variables you note are valid, but mostly only come into play at the extremes of travel, not around 40-60% of travel where tension is greatest. As mentioned above, the rollers' purpose is to keep some tension on the chain as its tension loosens at the travel extremes. Sprocket size affects the leverage the chain pull applies so influences squat. The chain guide shouldn't make any difference, shouldn't..... And the chain sliders are about not gouging holes in the swingarm. In fact I recall years ago you could get aftermarket idler sprockets that clamped on the the swingarm on top and bottom of the pivot. the idea was to eliminate chain tension variations, I think. Back then there was often a big distance between the cs and sa pivot, but not such a big deal with limited suspension travel.

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Old 01-12-2012, 12:04 AM   #58925
Klay
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My advice for those unwilling to sift through all the semantic nuance in here is to run your chain on the loose side. It's easier to replace chain and sprockets than bearings.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:07 AM   #58926
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
My advice for those unwilling to sift through all the semantic nuance in here is to run your chain on the loose side. It's easier to replace chain and sprockets than bearings.
But not too loose
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:29 AM   #58927
Phreaky Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
My advice for those unwilling to sift through all the semantic nuance in here is to run your chain on the loose side. It's easier to replace chain and sprockets than bearings.
I can feel when the chain is starting to get loose on my DR. It gets a bit vibby. It may be the under side of the chain touching the chain guide at the rear sprocket. Not really sure.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:32 AM   #58928
Thanas
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Hi Guys,

I would like some feedback on the following. I'm torn between 3 options i have for my DR, regarding wheels.

I ride my bike every day to work, i use it for holidays, weekends, and try to go off-road as much as possible. I live in the Netherlands and off-road here means mostly 1 of 2 things. Loose sand or mud. I currently have Heidenau K60 Scout (90/90-21 & 130/80-17) on my wheels. These work very well on the street and harder surface off-road. With wet pavement they are also great. With mud they get full pretty quickly and because of my inexperience, I don't get up to enough speed to clear the tires. In loose sand i find the front 21 with the Heidenau K60 to be very "loose" and not to stabile, but with some more speed and experience, they are manageable. Hard surface off-road they are good enough.

Option 1:
Keep the 21/17, witht the Heidenau K60 Scout. Becauss i ride so much on-road. These are great tires. And off-road i would just have to deal with it. I 'm not to keen on trying Conti TKC80 or the like on these narrow tires, because i would believe that would make the bike very loose and not so much fun with cold and wet pavement. Which we have a lot here.

Option 2:
Go to Supermoto wheels. 3.50 x 17 front and 4.25 x 17 rear, with 120/70-17 and 160/60-17 (or 150/60-17) tires. I've had a Suzuki Bandit 600 which i also used to off-road with. With rain tires, Heidenau K73. Worked really well and i would think they would perform even better on an SM type bike. A friend has a TT-R 600 with SM wheels and he can go wherever i go with my "dirt" wheels. I would really like to SM the DR, because on road that would make the bike handle even better. Off-road with the right tires it would also be very capable. But i think that with an SM bike, i would like some more power and beter suspension.

Option 3
Go for a 2.50 x 19 font and 4.25 x 17 rear wheel. With 110/80-19 fornt and 150/70-17 rear tire. I would then consider a TKC80 or similar, which would also work very well on the road. Because of the wider tire and therefore larger contact patch. Off-road this would probably work a lot better than the Heidenau K60 i currently have with the 21/17 wheels.

Can anybody shed some light on this?

Thanks
Thanas
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:39 AM   #58929
LGDH
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GSXR1000 Muffler

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
Thanks...

Anyone knows of anywhere that i can find a used GSXR1k Muffler?
Tried Ebay but couldnt find anything there...
New to this, but here goes.
Have a look on ebay.co.uk. I just bought 2, correct numbers and took 4 days to get to Aus, postage was more than the pipe, some say they will not ship international but if you send them an email they might help. The people that I dealt with were very helpful. Each muffler was about $125.00 including shipping to Aus. Although I'm having trouble getting in touch with Jessie at Keintech and will call them tomorrow for a couple of midpipes.

Also wanted to add that I only got my DR just before Christmas while I was away at work, Tyrepower checked it out for me and my dear wife arranged payment while I was away, when I got home there it was a 2010 white DR with 800kms on the clock in the shed, and now I'm spending $$ on it. So different to ride compared to my 1999 Tenere'.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:04 AM   #58930
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Hi Guys,

I would like some feedback on the following. I'm torn between 3 options i have for my DR, regarding wheels.

I ride my bike every day to work, i use it for holidays, weekends, and try to go off-road as much as possible. I live in the Netherlands and off-road here means mostly 1 of 2 things. Loose sand or mud. I currently have Heidenau K60 Scout (90/90-21 & 130/80-17) on my wheels. These work very well on the street and harder surface off-road. With wet pavement they are also great. With mud they get full pretty quickly and because of my inexperience, I don't get up to enough speed to clear the tires. In loose sand i find the front 21 with the Heidenau K60 to be very "loose" and not to stabile, but with some more speed and experience, they are manageable. Hard surface off-road they are good enough.

Option 1:
Keep the 21/17, witht the Heidenau K60 Scout. Becauss i ride so much on-road. These are great tires. And off-road i would just have to deal with it. I 'm not to keen on trying Conti TKC80 or the like on these narrow tires, because i would believe that would make the bike very loose and not so much fun with cold and wet pavement. Which we have a lot here.

Option 2:
Go to Supermoto wheels. 3.50 x 17 front and 4.25 x 17 rear, with 120/70-17 and 160/60-17 (or 150/60-17) tires. I've had a Suzuki Bandit 600 which i also used to off-road with. With rain tires, Heidenau K73. Worked really well and i would think they would perform even better on an SM type bike. A friend has a TT-R 600 with SM wheels and he can go wherever i go with my "dirt" wheels. I would really like to SM the DR, because on road that would make the bike handle even better. Off-road with the right tires it would also be very capable. But i think that with an SM bike, i would like some more power and beter suspension.

Option 3
Go for a 2.50 x 19 font and 4.25 x 17 rear wheel. With 110/80-19 fornt and 150/70-17 rear tire. I would then consider a TKC80 or similar, which would also work very well on the road. Because of the wider tire and therefore larger contact patch. Off-road this would probably work a lot better than the Heidenau K60 i currently have with the 21/17 wheels.

Can anybody shed some light on this?

Thanks
Thanas
Option 4
Change front to a more aggressive front tire, and live with a little less road-ability for enhanced dirt-ability.

It's cheaper than a new set of wheels & tires, and if you choose carefully, you may find the new, somewhat more aggressive front tire does fine on the road too.

I am changing my front IRC-GP1 (still has lots of tread) for an MT-21 in the Spring, for exactly the same reason you stated above - I need more traction in sand and mud. Rear is a Mefo Explorer, which for now will stay on.



vs.

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:16 AM   #58931
luckychucky
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Location: SE Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Hows that Walmart seat pad working? Price? I'm still using the stock seat and too cheap to buy a good seat. I should probably own a KLR
I've only ridden it a couple of days. The pad is more comfy, but I don't like the half-ass-look of the straps. I'll work on hiding the straps, during some nicer weather.
From Suzuki DR650 with Accessories


See the staps? Don't like them hanging around. Price? Maybe 20 bucks, sorry I don't remember.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:20 AM   #58932
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Then drill two big holes in the plastic side panels with a hole saw, so you can stick a socket wrench through and remove or install the seat without taking the panels off. This gives you quick access to the battery, etc. Especially useful trail-side. Stick gummy HandiTak or rain spout seal somewhere on a clean part of the frame, so you can use it to stick the bolt in the socket to pull it out or thread it in.
Thanks for the advice.

Sounds like a very good idea, though i am hesitant on drilling through my while side plastics as of now...
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:21 AM   #58933
nat_han
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGDH View Post
New to this, but here goes.
Have a look on ebay.co.uk. I just bought 2, correct numbers and took 4 days to get to Aus, postage was more than the pipe, some say they will not ship international but if you send them an email they might help. The people that I dealt with were very helpful. Each muffler was about $125.00 including shipping to Aus. Although I'm having trouble getting in touch with Jessie at Keintech and will call them tomorrow for a couple of midpipes.

Also wanted to add that I only got my DR just before Christmas while I was away at work, Tyrepower checked it out for me and my dear wife arranged payment while I was away, when I got home there it was a 2010 white DR with 800kms on the clock in the shed, and now I'm spending $$ on it. So different to ride compared to my 1999 Tenere'.

Thanks!

Will take a look at ebay.co.uk.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:56 AM   #58934
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
A lot of DR riders run what is called a "mullet". They use different tires front and rear. A common one is an MT21 front with a D606 rear. The D606 supposedly lasts quite a while and runs pavement fairly well for as knobby as it is, but it's not usually the cheapest DOT knob around.
current mullet (some say emo - longer in front/shorter in back...mullet is the opposite) is
irc tr8 -fr $50
shinko 700 -r $58
prices from MSS

previous was
tck-80
mefo explorer

current works just like the previous but much cheaper in price
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:01 AM   #58935
ag_streak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
I used the Walmart seat pad for a long time on top of the gel seat with a little padding underneath to bolster it somewhat.
Hey, I find my Walmart pad's buckles to be exactly in the wrong place. Right at the bottom of the seat, interfering with the side panels and such.

I had the seat off, and was trying to place all four straps around the seat pan itself.

Anyone have any suggestions?
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