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Old 02-10-2012, 10:10 AM   #59866
eakins
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http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm

dr & strom use ths same oil filer cap.
this provides security
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #59867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Are folks getting many miles out of the stock spark plugs on DR's. I have tried a few, but really can't tell if there is much of a difference, or if the DR really cares?
i've found my bike runs better/starts easier with ngk iridium plugs.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:17 AM   #59868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Yes Rotella diesel oil seems to work well and is often recommended around here.
synthetic version
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:37 AM   #59869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
synthetic version
Oil thread I have used the Rotello Dino juice for years with good results but in the air cooled DR I now use the synthetic although I doubt it makes any difference.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:46 AM   #59870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i've found my bike runs better/starts easier with ngk iridium plugs.
Bill,

Would you have that particular NGK part # handy? Thanks

Sarah
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:54 AM   #59871
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Synthetic oil

My humble opinion:

The advantage synthetic has is the increased temperature it can tolerate. It can take about 75 to 100 degree higher temp before things start to go bad in the oil. Admittedly the DR is pretty good at dissipating heat for an air cooled engine and likely never a problem for most using conventional oil. BUT it only takes overheating the oil once for it to become junk. I prefer to have the extra temp buffer provided by synthetics. It also can make starting (and cold flow) easier for those of you that like to ride in the cold weather --- not a problem for me (I am a wimp in cold weather).

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Old 02-10-2012, 11:06 AM   #59872
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Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i've found my bike runs better/starts easier with ngk iridium plugs.
I've found my bike runs better/starts easier with oil in it.
Seriously, I can hear the difference, engine spins much easier, in severe cold with synthetic in it. Has to be much better for the engine, starter and battery. Synthetic can provide dependable lubrication at temperature extremes that petroleum base just can't.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:07 AM   #59873
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
My humble opinion:

The advantage synthetic has is the increased temperature it can tolerate. It can take about 75 to 100 degree higher temp before things start to go bad in the oil. Admittedly the DR is pretty good at dissipating heat for an air cooled engine and likely never a problem for most using conventional oil. BUT it only takes overheating the oil once for it to become junk. I prefer to have the extra temp buffer provided by synthetics. It also can make starting (and cold flow) easier for those of you that like to ride in the cold weather --- not a problem for me (I am a wimp in cold weather).

that is an adwantage for sure. but, synthetic has other adwantages that would make it worthwhile, even if if it weren't better at tolerating high heat:
- lasts much longer before it breaks down
- flows much better at low temps, ensuring better oiling & less metal-to-metal contact at cold start (even on hot days, this is important - 100f is still cold for an engine)
- has much higher tensile strength & shear strength, ensuring much less likelihood of metal-to-metal contact
- sticks to metal much better, ensuring much less likelihood of metal-to-metal contact, especially on cold start

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Old 02-10-2012, 11:23 AM   #59874
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We better be careful with this oil talk.

QUICK someone ask a tire question!
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:27 AM   #59875
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tck's

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
I'm the anus then.

Good call IMO on beefier for the TKC's. I rode a KLR with skinnier TKC's and it was worlds different from my beefy current ones.
Goodcat8, Are you saying the TKC 150 rides better then the 130? I would like to get the 150 rear. Also are you putting it on the OEM stock rim?
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:31 AM   #59876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
I rode a KLR with skinnier TKC's and it was worlds different from my beefy current ones.
How much skinnier?
I rode one with an IMS tank and 120 TKC80 rear and it handled... Quickly...
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:02 PM   #59877
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Goodcat8, Are you saying the TKC 150 rides better then the 130? I would like to get the 150 rear. Also are you putting it on the OEM stock rim?
The KLR had a stock rim with a130 TKC. My DR has the wide supermoto rear rim. So that in itself will lend a difference. I wouldn't recommend (or even know if it's possible) to fit a 150 on our stock rear rim. I love the way it handles with its current set up.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #59878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
I wouldn't recommend (or even know if it's possible) to fit a 150 on our stock rear rim. I love the way it handles with its current set up.
It would definitely be a bad idea to cram the 150 tire onto the stock rim.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:42 PM   #59879
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Sage advice from Procycle...indeed a narrower 130 TKC80 should weigh less & less rotational mass=quicker acceleration. I also tried a TKC80 140/17 rear (on a 2.5" Behr tubeless rim) & didn't like it...almost a totally different tire...the 140 had a shorter looking profile, much bigger, wider tread blocks, & a much more rounded profile so that the outer tread blocks wouldn't fully contact the pavement at full lean. I went back to a 130/17 with a flatter profile & smaller tread blocks & am much happier with it.

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Old 02-10-2012, 02:07 PM   #59880
dljocky
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Quick question, I currently use regular motorcycle 10W-40 oil and change it about every 2,000 miles. How long could/should I go between oil changes if I switched over to synthetic?
Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
that is an adwantage for sure. but, synthetic has other adwantages that would make it worthwhile, even if if it weren't better at tolerating high heat:
- lasts much longer before it breaks down
- flows much better at low temps, ensuring better oiling & less metal-to-metal contact at cold start (even on hot days, this is important - 100f is still cold for an engine)
- has much higher tensile strength & shear strength, ensuring much less likelihood of metal-to-metal contact
- sticks to metal much better, ensuring much less likelihood of metal-to-metal contact, especially on cold start

doug s.
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