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Old 02-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #60586
arctic954
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Joined: May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
Has anyone fitted an OEM Yamaha R1/R6/YZ/WR throttle tube to their DR? I fitted a Motion Pro R1 throttle tube, and it catches slightly on full closed. Not enough to be a problem I think, but not perfect.

The plastic part where the cable ends slot into seems to be a bit narrow, which seems to allow the plastic to slip between the throttle closed stops slightly.

I am wondering if the OEM Yamaha item is a little thicker, and so perhaps doesn't have this problem.
I'm going to find out soon enough.....R6 throttle tube....

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Old 02-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #60587
TRAVELGUY
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Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 607
I have owned two V STrom 1000's, one Wee Strom 650, and two DR650's. About 70,000 miles total on the 1000's. Only about 7000 miles on the 650 Strom. Probaly about 4000 on the DR650's. The DR650 will not be as comfy as the Strom's but I have done slab commute on the DR and did not find that to be a uncomfortable problem. The DR will run slab speeds with no problem with stock gearing and have even done that with lower gearing. Mainly however when I knew I was only doing interstate I would install my 16 tooth countershaft spocket just to make things easier for the motor and reduce vibrations on my feet and hands but this was really not necessary, just did it anyway.

DR650's are a very reliable bike and cost effective by current standards in my opinion. That after owning something over 60 motorcycles and riding a little less than 300,000 miles.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
Hi all,

Huge thread. way to much to dig through. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 DR650. I have skimmed this 4000 post thread for info. It seems to me the bike in stock form is pretty bullet proof. I did read about the factory carb settings being lean. Anything to worry about or just ride it? Im coming off of Tiger 1050 then a Vstrom 100 and then a Vstrom 650. My primary purpose is a 70 mile round trip commute on the superslab with some short 150 mile ADV rides out to the country. What are your opinions on the DR for this type of commute? 55-75 MPH on the slab.

Anyone convert from a Vstrom to the DR?

Thank you,

Mark
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:45 PM   #60588
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
Hi all,

Huge thread. way to much to dig through. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 DR650. I have skimmed this 4000 post thread for info. It seems to me the bike in stock form is pretty bullet proof. I did read about the factory carb settings being lean. Anything to worry about or just ride it? Im coming off of Tiger 1050 then a Vstrom 100 and then a Vstrom 650. My primary purpose is a 70 mile round trip commute on the superslab with some short 150 mile ADV rides out to the country. What are your opinions on the DR for this type of commute? 55-75 MPH on the slab.

Anyone convert from a Vstrom to the DR?

Thank you,

Mark
Iíll go against the grain and say, buy new. Keep new m/c sales up. Around here, finding a nice DR for not much money isnít that easy. Most have farkles you donít need and they get a pretty good premium for a well maintained DR. Yeah, you might save a few bucks, but if you get a good deal on new, especially during a period when Suzuki has incentives, youíre not spending much more to have a bike and you KNOW the maintenance.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:09 PM   #60589
jon_l
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
Im coming off of Tiger 1050 then a Vstrom 100 and then a Vstrom 650. My primary purpose is a 70 mile round trip commute on the superslab with some short 150 mile ADV rides out to the country. What are your opinions on the DR for this type of commute? 55-75 MPH on the slab.

Anyone convert from a Vstrom to the DR?

Thank you,

Mark
Mark - all 3 of the bikes you mention sound better for your intended use than a DR650.

I am a former V-Strom 650 owner, and while I didn't like it much on rutted dirt roads or off-road, it was a great all-rounder and capable highway bike.

The DR650 is a fine bike, but it wouldn't be my 1st choice for slabbing daily.

I agree with most of the others re: new vs. used. Lots of money to be saved buying used, which could be put towards luggage, suspension, saddle, etc.

I like the looks of the Scrambler and Bonneville a lot, but - the Scram's high pipe makes luggage a pain, and really other than being handsome, it shares the same mission profile as the V-Storm 650 - a 500 lb street bike with off road pretentions. Just because some guys with skills can ride 'em offroad (cue Rhodie) doesn't make them the right tool for the job. I'd prefer the Bonneville for the slightly higher HP, and pipes that won't interfere with my knee or luggage. The Steve McQueen limited edition Bonnie is sweet:

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Old 02-27-2012, 03:53 PM   #60590
Elvis70
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Fayetteville, AR
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I will be sure and talk to my buddy about the rings. No other wear on the cylinder other than the rings at the bottom. I am not the original owner, I bought it in like new condition in 2006 with 6350 miles on it for a grand sum of $1650. I sure have gotten my moneys worth. I use an MSR foam filter and it is great shape and every oil change I clean and re-oil it. My air-box is not cut out either, still has snorkel.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Here is a random pic of the top of of a worn cylinder (disregard the Southern American spelling ;-)

http://vintagetractorengineer.com/wp...worn-liner.jpg

Did your cylinder have a similar unworn ridge on the top?

That is surprising that the cylinder measured to spec and still had those noticeable lines. By the look of the pic I would have said that cylinder is worn to a taper.

But you did the absolutely the right thing by have the cylinder re-coated and honed. The bike will be good to go for a lot of years!

Once the new rings are installed on the piston be sure to check the clearance between the ring lands and the piston ring and make sure its in spec. The piston make look great but the ring lands will be worn out of spec. That means your new rings will be moving around compromising the seal against the cylinder and wearing out quickly.

Out of interests sake are you the original owner? What kind of air filter oil do you use.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:57 PM   #60591
catfishdan
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Location: San Jose
Oddometer: 49
Just got all my goodies installed and went for a ride. The procycle low pegs are way more comfortable. The moose racing hand guards are solid but a bit of a pain to install. The ims tank went on without any problems and I was able to keep the charcoal canister ( I know... But I'm a bit of a tree hugger). The b-king wind screen seems like the ticket for high speeds. It just takes a little bit of wind blast off my chest. It might be just what you need for the freeway, jaws. I think I will return the factory pro jet kit and save up for a tm40. Thanks for the advice.

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Old 02-27-2012, 03:58 PM   #60592
Elvis70
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Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Interesting. Bike had never been opened up so any assembly problems were from Suzuki. So you think a ring could snap in those or should I have left it alone and continued to ride it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Those lines in the bottom are not uncommon. The oil rings are often chrome lined on the edges which makes them wear the cylinder more then the other rings; that is what makes it possible to see that and not a top ridge. Also, that position is where the piston is changing direction so the cylinder gets a double dose of ring wear there. Plus the piston tends to want to "rock" in the bottom as the connecting rod goes over center. When it is at the top exhaust gases or compression tend to keep the piston more square in the bore.

I would have liked to see the piston rings before you took them apart. If the oil ring expander (spring looking part) isn't installed correctly it can put excess pressure on the oil rings which causes more wear.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:59 PM   #60593
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Waiting for the same opinions.....seems like there a lots of options to change lights etc to reduce draw and adding a volt meter but at what total cost.....from my uninformed postion looks like the upgraded stator would be the easiest fix from an electrical standpoint.

Wonder why no one goes that route. Is it a difficult/expensive install or a non-reliable part?
I would rather re-wind in a "wye" format as it's easier than getting a stator sent over here.
Also I don't run heated anything and the GPS is the only accessory.

You can easily suck 55w extra from the stock stator without draining the battery though.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:21 PM   #60594
vnsfxr
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Joined: May 2003
Location: Lake County California
Oddometer: 254
Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954 View Post
I'm going to find out soon enough.....R6 throttle tube....

I just had to adjust the cables at both ends and remove the grip that came with it. It does make wheelies easier.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #60595
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
Oddometer: 2,475
I've been using an R6 tube for a couple of years now, and I love it. Never had any problems. Also had one on my SV650.


Takes a bit of getting used to when riding trails.


http://www.fy-yff.com/2010/05/rainy-...-upgrades.html







Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954 View Post
I'm going to find out soon enough.....R6 throttle tube....



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Old 02-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #60596
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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I'm one of those people who would run the DR at 80MPH all day...stock seat, no screen, stock pegs and bars. It doesn't seem over-revved at all, but I use stock-or-close gearing and my 130-width rear tire might be slightly taller than stock. My current gearing (16/46) is now essentially 1 tooth up in back from stock, so revs are just a hair higher than with stock gears. 90MPH+ (GPS) is ok for short blasts in the dirt, but I wouldn't run it there all day on the slab. 1st pulls a little nicer from a stop with a passenger and luggage on, but not by a huge difference. The DR clutch is much easier to pull than my streetbike's, so it's no problem for me working the friction zone in more-technical dirt. 'Seems carb tuning or (better) a flatslide really helps at crawling speeds too. I can't wait to get an FCR-MX.

I DID try the 46T rear sprocket while I still had the stock 15T CS sprocket on. This is essentially just 1 tooth up in back from the popular 14/42 setup. It seemed buzzy to me at 70-75MPH (indicated). For my riding, I'm fine with stock-or-close gearing, and it's likely to crawl even better with a future FCR carb, which is what most people swap gears for...better crawling manners. As it is right now with a Procycle'd BST and 16/46 gears, the bike crawls better in the dirt than stock, but can still cruise more than fast enough to get me arrested. I call it "Good enough", for now.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:42 PM   #60597
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
My Pick up coil just went bad, so I bought the new stator/pick up. Does anyone know if there is a place that buys used/ works stators?
Thanks




QUOTE=sagedrifter;18084472]When my regulators died, that always was caused by a weak stator. I fought those sorry Honda 24 amp stators for years. Haven't seen that on a DR650 though.

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[/QUOTE]


How old is the bike? How many miles did it take for the pick up coil to fail? My bike is racking up the miles...
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:42 PM   #60598
LXIV-Dragon
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: St Cloud, FL
Oddometer: 600
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
Hi all,

Huge thread. way to much to dig through. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 DR650. I have skimmed this 4000 post thread for info. It seems to me the bike in stock form is pretty bullet proof. I did read about the factory carb settings being lean. Anything to worry about or just ride it? Im coming off of Tiger 1050 then a Vstrom 100 and then a Vstrom 650. My primary purpose is a 70 mile round trip commute on the superslab with some short 150 mile ADV rides out to the country. What are your opinions on the DR for this type of commute? 55-75 MPH on the slab.

Anyone convert from a Vstrom to the DR?

Thank you,

Mark
You will want to change the seat! Consider a 16T which helps eat miles.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:46 PM   #60599
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I'm one of those people who would run the DR at 80MPH all day. It doesn't seem over-revved at all, but I use stock-or-close gearing and my 130-width rear tire might be slightly taller than stock. My current gearing (16/46) is now essentially 1 tooth up in back from stock, so revs are just a hair higher than with stock gears. 90MPH+ (GPS) is ok for short blasts in the dirt, but I wouldn't run it there all day on the slab. 1st pulls a little nicer from a stop with a passenger and luggage on, but not by a huge difference. The DR clutch is much easier to pull than my streetbike's, so it's no problem for me working the friction zone in more-technical dirt. 'Seems carb tuning or (better) a flatslide really helps at crawling speeds too. I can't wait to get an FCR-MX.

I DID try the 46T rear sprocket while I still had the stock 15T CS sprocket on. This is essentially just 1 tooth up in back from the popular 14/42 setup. It seemed buzzy to me at 70-75MPH (indicated). For my riding, I'm fine with stock-or-close gearing, and it's likely to crawl even better with a future FCR carb, which is what most people swap gears for...better crawling manners. As it is right now with a Procycle'd BST and 16/46 gears, the bike crawls better in the dirt than stock, but can still cruise more than fast enough to get me arrested. I call it "Good enough", for now.

Yep on the gearing. I run 80 mph on the gps some. I have some 70 mph interstates around here. I do find I can't maintain 65 mph sometimes in the mountains loaded for touring. When I was running down to Daytona Beach it was no problem doing 80 mph. Florida ain't known for its hills.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:48 PM   #60600
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
...So Fun is the factor. A few days a week to work to save some $$$$ on Gas and the rest of the time jamming around back roads just having fun...
Mark
this is the perfect description of a dr650 set up w/supermoto wheels, free flow exhaust, a new carb, better front/rear suspension, better seat... amhik. if your "jamming around back roads yust having fun" includes more true off-roading than hard-pack dirt & gravel roads, some have found the perfect compromise w/19" front wheel instead of true supermoto 17" front wheel.

my bike is set up as described, and, judicial shopping, including buying used, allowed me to do this for ~$4k... the bike is a real hoot. plenty comfy at freeway speeds, w/stock gearing. yes, if i were gonna go on a long freeway-based trip, i would probably choose my buell s2 instead. but the dr would be more than capable, and even moreso, if i made the gearing taller than stock... as it is, since my wife rides, there is the likelihood that, if a long trip is in my future, both the buell & the dr650 will be seeing duty.

if i could have only one bike? i really can't imagine parting with either...

doug s.
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