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Old 02-27-2012, 05:40 PM   #60586
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
Oddometer: 2,593
I've been using an R6 tube for a couple of years now, and I love it. Never had any problems. Also had one on my SV650.


Takes a bit of getting used to when riding trails.


http://www.fy-yff.com/2010/05/rainy-...-upgrades.html







Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954 View Post
I'm going to find out soon enough.....R6 throttle tube....



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Old 02-27-2012, 05:40 PM   #60587
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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I'm one of those people who would run the DR at 80MPH all day...stock seat, no screen, stock pegs and bars. It doesn't seem over-revved at all, but I use stock-or-close gearing and my 130-width rear tire might be slightly taller than stock. My current gearing (16/46) is now essentially 1 tooth up in back from stock, so revs are just a hair higher than with stock gears. 90MPH+ (GPS) is ok for short blasts in the dirt, but I wouldn't run it there all day on the slab. 1st pulls a little nicer from a stop with a passenger and luggage on, but not by a huge difference. The DR clutch is much easier to pull than my streetbike's, so it's no problem for me working the friction zone in more-technical dirt. 'Seems carb tuning or (better) a flatslide really helps at crawling speeds too. I can't wait to get an FCR-MX.

I DID try the 46T rear sprocket while I still had the stock 15T CS sprocket on. This is essentially just 1 tooth up in back from the popular 14/42 setup. It seemed buzzy to me at 70-75MPH (indicated). For my riding, I'm fine with stock-or-close gearing, and it's likely to crawl even better with a future FCR carb, which is what most people swap gears for...better crawling manners. As it is right now with a Procycle'd BST and 16/46 gears, the bike crawls better in the dirt than stock, but can still cruise more than fast enough to get me arrested. I call it "Good enough", for now.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:42 PM   #60588
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
My Pick up coil just went bad, so I bought the new stator/pick up. Does anyone know if there is a place that buys used/ works stators?
Thanks




QUOTE=sagedrifter;18084472]When my regulators died, that always was caused by a weak stator. I fought those sorry Honda 24 amp stators for years. Haven't seen that on a DR650 though.

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[/QUOTE]


How old is the bike? How many miles did it take for the pick up coil to fail? My bike is racking up the miles...
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:42 PM   #60589
LXIV-Dragon
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: St Cloud, FL
Oddometer: 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
Hi all,

Huge thread. way to much to dig through. Im getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 DR650. I have skimmed this 4000 post thread for info. It seems to me the bike in stock form is pretty bullet proof. I did read about the factory carb settings being lean. Anything to worry about or just ride it? Im coming off of Tiger 1050 then a Vstrom 100 and then a Vstrom 650. My primary purpose is a 70 mile round trip commute on the superslab with some short 150 mile ADV rides out to the country. What are your opinions on the DR for this type of commute? 55-75 MPH on the slab.

Anyone convert from a Vstrom to the DR?

Thank you,

Mark
You will want to change the seat! Consider a 16T which helps eat miles.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:46 PM   #60590
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I'm one of those people who would run the DR at 80MPH all day. It doesn't seem over-revved at all, but I use stock-or-close gearing and my 130-width rear tire might be slightly taller than stock. My current gearing (16/46) is now essentially 1 tooth up in back from stock, so revs are just a hair higher than with stock gears. 90MPH+ (GPS) is ok for short blasts in the dirt, but I wouldn't run it there all day on the slab. 1st pulls a little nicer from a stop with a passenger and luggage on, but not by a huge difference. The DR clutch is much easier to pull than my streetbike's, so it's no problem for me working the friction zone in more-technical dirt. 'Seems carb tuning or (better) a flatslide really helps at crawling speeds too. I can't wait to get an FCR-MX.

I DID try the 46T rear sprocket while I still had the stock 15T CS sprocket on. This is essentially just 1 tooth up in back from the popular 14/42 setup. It seemed buzzy to me at 70-75MPH (indicated). For my riding, I'm fine with stock-or-close gearing, and it's likely to crawl even better with a future FCR carb, which is what most people swap gears for...better crawling manners. As it is right now with a Procycle'd BST and 16/46 gears, the bike crawls better in the dirt than stock, but can still cruise more than fast enough to get me arrested. I call it "Good enough", for now.

Yep on the gearing. I run 80 mph on the gps some. I have some 70 mph interstates around here. I do find I can't maintain 65 mph sometimes in the mountains loaded for touring. When I was running down to Daytona Beach it was no problem doing 80 mph. Florida ain't known for its hills.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:48 PM   #60591
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS134 View Post
...So Fun is the factor. A few days a week to work to save some $$$$ on Gas and the rest of the time jamming around back roads just having fun...
Mark
this is the perfect description of a dr650 set up w/supermoto wheels, free flow exhaust, a new carb, better front/rear suspension, better seat... amhik. if your "jamming around back roads yust having fun" includes more true off-roading than hard-pack dirt & gravel roads, some have found the perfect compromise w/19" front wheel instead of true supermoto 17" front wheel.

my bike is set up as described, and, judicial shopping, including buying used, allowed me to do this for ~$4k... the bike is a real hoot. plenty comfy at freeway speeds, w/stock gearing. yes, if i were gonna go on a long freeway-based trip, i would probably choose my buell s2 instead. but the dr would be more than capable, and even moreso, if i made the gearing taller than stock... as it is, since my wife rides, there is the likelihood that, if a long trip is in my future, both the buell & the dr650 will be seeing duty.

if i could have only one bike? i really can't imagine parting with either...

doug s.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:50 PM   #60592
thumpididump
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 2,593
The T63 is my favourite tire on the rear. Performs and lasts much like a TKC, and similar also to the D606. The 606 is only a wee bit more expensive than the T63, but he TCK is double the price. As for the front, I prefer the D606. The T63 front is okay on gravel, but sucks in the mud compared to a 606 or a Pirelli MT21.




Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I decided to try something different and replaced the stock Trailwings with Michelin T63's. After a few hundred miles I really like them, dirtbike-like grip offroad and not too much noise onroad. I'm not much of a street rider so I couldn't tell you how they work while scraping the pegs.

Here's what the rear looks like:


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Old 02-27-2012, 06:01 PM   #60593
bkoz
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: The Great White North
Oddometer: 288
Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrMnnn View Post
Has anyone fitted an OEM Yamaha R1/R6/YZ/WR throttle tube to their DR? I fitted a Motion Pro R1 throttle tube, and it catches slightly on full closed. Not enough to be a problem I think, but not perfect.

The plastic part where the cable ends slot into seems to be a bit narrow, which seems to allow the plastic to slip between the throttle closed stops slightly.

I am wondering if the OEM Yamaha item is a little thicker, and so perhaps doesn't have this problem.
Nope, I have the OEM Yammie tube and had the exact problem you are having. It will progressively stick worse and worse as the tube wears. I was the one who installed the set screw that motodefecient is talking about.

Actually the setup has held up. I haven't bothered changing it because of the grip heaters. Your best bet is the ProCycle throttle tube.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #60594
arctic954
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Joined: May 2008
Oddometer: 539
Decided to go out on a limb today. Ever sense I decided to go with the 19" front, 17" sumo rear setup.....I've been thinking about getting better braking. BTW --- I've already added a Galfer steel braided line, Vesrah Pads, and a good bleed of MOTUL RBF600 fluid.....as is....its pretty good now.

Doing the research, the DR stock master cylinder is a 1/2" or 12.7mm M/C. I was starting to do a little research into a suitable 13mm KTM/Brembo replacement....Then this....Magura 13mm Radial master cylinder popped up in the SMJ classifieds. It's also coming with a Brembo resevoir & mount bracket. It was designed for the DRZ400SM --- which happens to use the exact same brake caliper as the DR650......

Should be interesting..... I'll have it in 2 days.......now, I just need some warm weather to do some testing on my favorite twisty road.....



Also picked up one of these.....


arctic954 screwed with this post 02-27-2012 at 06:18 PM
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #60595
dljocky
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 853
Bike is 2 yrs old, I bought it new, 27,000 miles on it so far. Was running fine one day, then the next it wouldn't start.


How old is the bike? How many miles did it take for the pick up coil to fail? My bike is racking up the miles... [/QUOTE]
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:03 PM   #60596
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,413
I'm still under 20K on my 2007. The only thing I've noticed is an increase in oil weeping from the top end. The left side has the usual cam cover leak but, I found out today while checking valves that the right side cam plug is leaking too. The top end won't rust...

I replaced the cush rubbers today also and man they are tight. I didn't realize how loose my originals were. With a fresh 705 on the rear I'll be getting up to the Cherohala soon. The weather has been getting warmer, it was 60 today and the 70's were here a few days ago...
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:24 PM   #60597
eRRmmm
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Mildura Vic, Aus
Oddometer: 576
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Nope, I have the OEM Yammie tube and had the exact problem you are having. It will progressively stick worse and worse as the tube wears. I was the one who installed the set screw that motodefecient is talking about.

Actually the setup has held up. I haven't bothered changing it because of the grip heaters. Your best bet is the ProCycle throttle tube.
I've already got the Motion Pro one so I'll see what it takes to modify it/the throttle housing so it's right.

It only cost me $14 including shipping from the US, the Procycle tube is no doubt a good product, but it's $90 including shipping to Aus. Should last forever though being aluminium.

In my research on this I found links to a zip-tie mod at TT that some of the DRZ crowd are using. Even cheaper.... just not sure I'd trust it.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:54 PM   #60598
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis70 View Post
Interesting. Bike had never been opened up so any assembly problems were from Suzuki. So you think a ring could snap in those or should I have left it alone and continued to ride it?
If you saw how quickly they put those motors together you would be surprised they ran at all! I've seen car motors where the machine ran out of head gaskets, head bolted right to the block...wouldn't surprise me to find an oil ring installed in-correctly now and then (1 in 100,000)?

As for running it...I can't say. Those oil rings are tough, may have never had a problem. If it was mine...If i could feel the wear at all (or measure-which is hard to do on a small spot like that) I would have done like you and had it re plated. I've never had much luck half assing stuff and it work out.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #60599
Putzy
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Cocoa Beach, FL
Oddometer: 61
Always more work than you think....rear shock upgrade

So I pulled the shock off my 2000 DR tonight to swap out the spring with a new one from procycle. All part of the many mods i have been making since getting it almost 2 months ago. So after I pull it out, what do I see? Well, not a bottoming bumper, that's for sure! :( My bad for not looking really close at it all before ordering the new spring.

So now I have a shock sitting on my bench with a new spring dying to go on it, but no bumper. I was not planning to do any mods to the internals now, for lack of energy and money at this point. But I guess I got no choice but to pull it apart and put a new bumper on it. So then do I add a gold valve too? And maybe a new seal head? Or just say "screw it" and go all in and get the complete shaft assembly. I mean, its only plastic money anyway...

*** Note to self: always upgrade suspension first, then spend any money left on bling. ***

Guess i'll be calling Procycle tomorrow....
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:34 PM   #60600
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,775
I think you should buy theProcycle "Shock Shaft Assembly with 8.1 spring" for $498.00 Tell me how much you like it! :)
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