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Old 03-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #60961
neilaction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
I figured a carb clean is in order, but just wanted to ask if anyone has experienced this. It's just kind of abrupt when it does it.
Yep, that's the first thing to do.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:14 PM   #60962
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Help with this please! I've had my 99 DR for about 4 month's. Stock everything. It's developed a strong hesitation/stopping at idle. It sounds fine, then it seriously hesitates almost like I turned the key off & on quickly. I don't notice anything at full or half throttle. It runs strong down the road, but has died at stop lights a few times. I turned up the idle a bit, still does it but won't die now.

I figured a carb clean is in order, but just wanted to ask if anyone has experienced this. It's just kind of abrupt when it does it.

Probably needs a new pilot jet, fresh o-rings, float adjustment and a fuel filter. Procycle sells a BST kit. On a 99, I would look at replacing the float needle if its original. The rubber tips become very hard over time.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:42 PM   #60963
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
Anybody? Am I making something out of nothing or this a real problem? It just seems strange for there to be so much oil standing in that area.
I don't have any idea what might cause that or what it means. I was looking forward to an answer myself, just out of curiosity. If you don't get any answers here I would call Jesse at Keintech. I'll bet he would be able to shed some light on it. Every time I've called he's been really nice and really helpful.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:02 PM   #60964
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwolf View Post
I have a strange problem. I opened the valves to check clearances and the exhaust valves side is full of standing oil. The intake side is drained but shows some oil has been there which as I recall is normal. Is there a port that is supposed to drain this that could be clogged? If so how do I unclog it and is this getting clogged a sign of some other problem?

So, it was full to the top? Never seen that on my bike, always some oil below the rockers. Nothing more than a couple ounces though.

Was the engine cold? Doesn't sound right.... That ain't normal for my bike.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:05 PM   #60965
LucasLeader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Help with this please! I've had my 99 DR for about 4 month's. Stock everything. It's developed a strong hesitation/stopping at idle. It sounds fine, then it seriously hesitates almost like I turned the key off & on quickly. I don't notice anything at full or half throttle. It runs strong down the road, but has died at stop lights a few times. I turned up the idle a bit, still does it but won't die now.

I figured a carb clean is in order, but just wanted to ask if anyone has experienced this. It's just kind of abrupt when it does it.
I have the same symptoms on my 2007. I've never been in the carb, but I guess checking the pilot jet would be a good place to start. Kind of embarrassing when your bike dies at a light right when it turns green.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:33 PM   #60966
thumpididump
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Sounds like BST carb-itis. A nice TM40 pumper carb will fix that right up.


Sounds like your pilot circuit is clogged. Time for a good cleaning. Better yet, just replace the jets.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Help with this please! I've had my 99 DR for about 4 month's. Stock everything. It's developed a strong hesitation/stopping at idle. It sounds fine, then it seriously hesitates almost like I turned the key off & on quickly. I don't notice anything at full or half throttle. It runs strong down the road, but has died at stop lights a few times. I turned up the idle a bit, still does it but won't die now.

I figured a carb clean is in order, but just wanted to ask if anyone has experienced this. It's just kind of abrupt when it does it.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:34 PM   #60967
boother
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DR650 Eibach front and rear spring kit

I finally got my new to me 2009 DR out and had some fun today. The previous owner did a lot of upgrades but it was very apparent that another thing I will have to change are the front and rear springs. The PO was a much bigger guy than me and had installed the 8.4 kg/mm rear and (I think) the .55 kg/mm fork Eibach springs. Since I am about 5'6" and 160lbs these just are not going to work. Even with the preload eased up they are really stiff for me.

When I get them out and cleaned up I'll post them in the flea market. If anyone is interested, send me a pm.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #60968
Burnt Toast
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Carb-itis

Thanks for the info guys!
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:55 PM   #60969
boother
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
You might find that you'd be able to do a straight swap for stock springs.
Thanks but I have the original stock springs so I just want to sell these. I'm sure they will go cheap. In fact if someone that knows what they are doing happened to come by the house and swapped the Eibachs with the stock springs for me and left some beer, I'd probably be happy with that.

There is fun work to be done to the bike. Changing springs just isn't all that fun...
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:30 PM   #60970
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boother View Post
Thanks but I have the original stock springs so I just want to sell these. I'm sure they will go cheap. In fact if someone that knows what they are doing happened to come by the house and swapped the Eibachs with the stock springs for me and left some beer, I'd probably be happy with that.

There is fun work to be done to the bike. Changing springs just isn't all that fun...
Your springs are worth quite a bit. Around $200 or so new. Springs don't wear out. But give them away if you like ... or trade for something you need. Lots of big guys around here will LOVE those HD Eibachs, especially travelers who are packing 100 lbs. plus on the bike. Perfect for that. At 160 lbs. the stock springs should be close for you. Have fun! (BTW ... changing springs is super easy)
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:24 PM   #60971
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boother View Post
... The PO was a much bigger guy than me and had installed the 8.4 kg/mm rear and...
Make sure you still have the stock lower spring seat. If the PO installed an Eibach spring they require a different spring seat as an adapter. The adapter requires removing the stock parts that fit the stock spring.

Now, if the PO installed a ProCycle spring you'll be fine since the ProCycle springs are made to the same dimensions as stock and don't require the billet adapter.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:01 PM   #60972
zdiver1
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Tm40

Found a PC TM40 in my mail box today! So what choke set up did you guys do? I am thinking about useing the knob on the Carb and doing away with the handle bar choke and cable.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:09 AM   #60973
canoli
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Speaking of front shock upgrades

Speaking of front shock upgrades, I took the DR to a motocross track the other day (see episode 4 in sig line) and when I went over moderate jumps the front end seemed to have a mind of it's own. In fact when I went through the whoops I thought it was just going to wash out completely. My fear is that I just bought a Safari tank and with that increased weight the bike will become very unstable. I'm not a heavy guy (160) but I would like to firm up the bike a bit. The rear shock seems like an easy answer, a few bolts a stronger spring and away I go. Looking at the different threads on suspension I can see a million different ways to "fix" things on the front end. What I am looking for is the easy answer. On a scale of 1-10 my mechanical skills are a solid 5. How easy is a spring and or oil swap? Will that help fix the issue or should I try to find a front end off of an old KTM or Honda?

Thanks
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:15 AM   #60974
neilaction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
What I am looking for is the easy answer. On a scale of 1-10 my mechanical skills are a solid 5. How easy is a spring and or oil swap? Will that help fix the issue or should I try to find a front end off of an old KTM or Honda?
Fronts easier than the back. IMO.
New springs and oil is a 1hr job depending on how OCD you are about the oil level.
Valve work a bit more. Seals a bit more again.

Your 5 out of 10 is plenty.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:43 AM   #60975
Nibis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Found a PC TM40 in my mail box today! So what choke set up did you guys do? I am thinking about useing the knob on the Carb and doing away with the handle bar choke and cable.
Didn't you say you were getting a bigger tank too? I have the IMS and just left the pull knob on there, but it's a bitch to reach.
I don't mind though, I didn't want to deal with the choke cable issues, and one less thing to worry about breaking when working on the bike
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