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Old 03-08-2012, 04:08 PM   #61036
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Talking Problem solved

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Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Thanks for the input guys looks like I will order the TM40 kit from Procycle who knows how big the 6.6 tank will be, This place is great for info!
And Kobukan I enjoyed your Mexico read.
Paul
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MODEL NO. QTY CHARGE DESCRIPTION
ASM-CHOKE-TM40 1 32.95 Remote choke TM40
KIT-TIREIRONS 1 47.90 Tire Iron Wrenches 19/24mm
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:10 PM   #61037
goodcat8
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I'd say check your kill switch, clutch and kickstand safety switch. But if your lights are out too.......hmmmm
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:11 PM   #61038
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Laugh Battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr65O View Post
Hello all

I have recently purchased a used 2003 suzuki dr650. When I first got it, it would sometimes be difficult to start, in that I put the key in, hit the starter button, and it would not start. No clicking, turning over, nothing. Bike is always on tender when not in use. Today I took it off tender so I could take the bike out. Started right up no problem. Arrived at my destination 10 miles away and park bike. I return to bike 30 minutes later and try to start it, ever-so-faintly and for a fraction of second it would try to turn over but nowhere near enough power, and immediately went dead. No horn, no headlight, no brakelights at this point. I tried to jump start it, key is in on position, i am on pavement, get it to running speed, put in 1st and let out clutch, nothing at all.

I am able to get jump start from motorist. Starts right up, and drove it home. When home and still running i notice brake lights, indicator lights are weak and pulsating. Horn is also week and pulsating. Headlight probably the same.

Connections checked and they all look real good. I check battery visually and see no sticker of date, or stamp of date so not sure how old battery is.

I assume most likely bad battery, but just wanted to ask to make sure so not to needlessly replace parts as available money is low. I do have quality multimeter though not versed well in use.

Should i just change battery and thats it? Or should i be checking other components? If replace battery, which is good to get for reasonable amount less than 70 USD?

Many thanks!
Most common cause is, as you assume, a dieing or dead battery.
Take the battery out and take it to most any auto parts places or a Batteries Plus shop and have them load test it.
99% likelihood that is the ONLY problem so don't worry about more.
And yes, I make up at least 50% of my statistics
Put a good AGM battery (or better) and you will be happy for several years.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:12 PM   #61039
sagedrifter
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Originally Posted by Toxic Mark View Post
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of how you have it set up would you?



Is this what you are using? B&S 150 micron filter (5018H).

Yep, about $2 at my local Ace hardware. Nice and short.

I place the filter close to the petcock.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:13 PM   #61040
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I would buy a Procycle front spring/emulator kit and a rear shock assembly.
I just put Eibach springs in my front from pro cycle. Hundred bucks, worth every penny.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:15 PM   #61041
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biosci View Post
I read somewhere that the correct application springs are 90 % of the solution. Comments on this ???
IMO fixing the limp damping is 90% of the solution.

I think too many riders spend too much energy worrying about spring rates. Maybe that's because suspension settings are considered somewhat 'mysterious'. Suspension setup is always a compromise. It's even more of a compromise on a dual sport bike that will see a huge variety of uses and terrain.

The fact that it is such a big compromise means there is never going to be an ideal setup. This should actually make choosing easier because unless you pick a setup outside the range of common sense (like Suzuki did) you won't go wrong. You will still see a vast improvement even if you don't get the (non-existent) "perfect" setup. For most riders who will use their bikes for many different purposes choosing middle of the road spring rates will be just fine. For aggressive or heavy riders or those who normally ride with luggage then bumping up from middle of the road springs will be a bit better.

If we were setting up a motocross race bike to compete at a high level then yeah, a step in spring rate one way or another might make the difference between finishing in 1st or 3rd.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:23 PM   #61042
dr65O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Most common cause is, as you assume, a dieing or dead battery.
Take the battery out and take it to most any auto parts places or a Batteries Plus shop and have them load test it.
99% likelihood that is the ONLY problem so don't worry about more.
And yes, I make up at least 50% of my statistics
Put a good AGM battery (or better) and you will be happy for several years.
Thank you I will do just that. What is AGM battery?
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:25 PM   #61043
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biosci View Post
Thx Drifter. Will do both. Out of curiosity, what's your weight /riding style.
I'm a fat boy, about 260 to 280 with gear. I ride mostly forest roads, catch mild air some times. I usually have luggage on the bike, soft bags or Pelicans. I ride 300 to 400 mile days with camping gear often. I can bottom the .50's if I'm not careful on whoops, but the ride is nice with ok brake dive. Pot holes and washed out roads are soaked up fine. I'll add some emulators some day, I figure the valving will make it just about perfect for my needs. The rear shock will need attention first though, its wearing out as the miles pour on....

My current set up, taken a few days ago....

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Old 03-08-2012, 04:27 PM   #61044
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr65O View Post
Thank you I will do just that. What is AGM battery?
I've been running this American made AGM (absorbed glass matt) battery from Deka. So far so good after a year.

http://www.etx9.com/

When my battery went it didn't click, some times it just wouldn't do anything. A little bump start and it came to life and would start a few more times and then nothing again. I got home and orderd the Deka, two days later all was good again.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:35 PM   #61045
zdiver1
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Thumb That was fast!

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
PC

MODEL NO. QTY CHARGE DESCRIPTION
ASM-CHOKE-TM40 1 32.95 Remote choke TM40
KIT-TIREIRONS 1 47.90 Tire Iron Wrenches 19/24mm
Just got this email- Your Order Has Been Shipped!
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:54 PM   #61046
neilaction
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Location: Perth, WA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
IMO fixing the limp damping is 90% of the solution.
Interesting comment.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:45 PM   #61047
canoli
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Thanks for the info and advice on the front end. Since I'm currently living in Thailand, finding someone to help me tune or replace the suspension on a bike that is a rareity around here is going to prove problematic. I will however be moving to another country in a few months (not 100% sure of which one) but by then I'll have the Safari tank fitted and have a better understanding of the terrain that I'll be riding (don't worry it won't be motocross tracks ). In the meantime I'll keep my ears and options open.

Thanks again

Canoli
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:11 PM   #61048
BadDogMax
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New oil leak

Hi All,

I've noticed a new oil leak on the right cylinder head. It's a 2007 with 3300 miles. Anyone else have this problem?

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Old 03-08-2012, 09:19 PM   #61049
eakins
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mine did that for a bit then went away.
just clean it up w/ simple green and water.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:25 PM   #61050
Aerocycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
IMO fixing the limp damping is 90% of the solution.

I think too many riders spend too much energy worrying about spring rates.
I too agree with this. However, stiffer springs do make a difference, but are no better than the compression or rebound capability of your particular setup. Unfortunately Suzuki screwed this one up by not giving it's consumers greater adjustibility, but this is good news to aftermarket suppliers, it generates business.

I just want to throw out there as not many people talk about it, You can always replace the shock fluid with heavier weight shock fluid. I did to mine, I put in 10w, and also compressed the spring a bit more. Let me tell you there is a difference, and it's good. I would love to buy some gold valves and stiffer springs, but I'm not sure i'm ready to yet. I must prioritize my limited income.... Next I would like to mess with the pre-load and change the fluid on the forks. One thing at a time...

Only other suspension change I've made is dropping 20lbs from the gut.... Every bit helps.
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