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Old 03-12-2012, 11:27 AM   #61201
asrvivor
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Location: Boring! MORE COW BELL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
My TKC's were both Korean, I don't like spending the money on them since trying the Shink 700's though...
I agree, The 700's rock. Much better tire than I've seen in a while. Although those 244's are even less and fast becoming the tire of choice for DS bikes here in the PNW. Gave up on the 606 finally. 2.5 years and 17 rear 606's (4 of which came apart within the first 50 miles, tread or knobby detached or split in 2), 53K on bike (bought new in 2010). Dunlop would not do a thing except say ship them back at your cost and we will determine if it is our fault. Very Very poor customer service. So out with them. Go Shinko.....
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:35 AM   #61202
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimCC View Post
I found a swingarm on ebay and put in a bid. A shock replacement would be nice, but probably won't be in my budget until mid-summer. I cranked up the preload to a hair over manual recommended max. It's still way too soft for me. 6'2" 260#

I checked the valves and found them to be in spec. I'm still getting a lot of backfiring thru the pipes and the header will glow red if I idle it too long. I've read that both are fairly common and not too much to worry about. I'm tinkering with the TM40 to see if I can minimize them.

That headlight is an acerbis. I think that the intent is to meet the minimum requirements to have your dirt bike road legal. It sure didn't do it's job of putting out enough light to drive by at night. I've replaced it with the Moose 'Road Warrior' light. https://www.denniskirk.com/moose/whi...prd/214833.sku
Still not bright enough, but better. I'm going to save up and install some of those high output LED lights.

I think this weekend I'm going to drain the oil and check the neutral sending unit screws.

O! hadn't notice the chain clip. Thanks Feelers. I think the DR is parked until the swingarm is replaced. I'll get the chain sorted out when putting everything back together.
I run the TM40 about 2 turns out on the pilot screw running cheap off brand fuel I get without the extra ethanol. If I get loud pops I know its time to clean or replace the pilot jet. I actually try to fill up at the same gas station since I have to adjust my idle every time I change stations here.

My bike kept dying after I filled up at one place, I thought some thing was wrong till I remembered I changed brands again. I think its the ethanol ratio, my bike runs best on the non-ethanol off brand stuff I get in Weaver AL. When I'm on the local Shell or BP ethanol gas I need another 1/2 turn out on the pilot screw and one turn out on the idle screw. Other wise it coughs at idle and will die if its not fully warmed up.

I go buy fuel at the Hi-Tech or the No name place and I have to lower the idle back down since that fuel doesn't have much ethanol in it. Its amazing how much better the bike runs on the local no name gas. Its the corner gas station with two pumps thats the best.

I've been draining my carb when I'm not going to ride a few days and it helps 100%. After two years of shutting the fuel off as I pull in my long driveway the jets still look shiny. I also use marine stabil when I let the bike sit.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #61203
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
I agree, The 700's rock. Much better tire than I've seen in a while. Although those 244's are even less and fast becoming the tire of choice for DS bikes here in the PNW. Gave up on the 606 finally. 2.5 years and 17 rear 606's (4 of which came apart within the first 50 miles, tread or knobby detached or split in 2), 53K on bike (bought new in 2010). Dunlop would not do a thing except say ship them back at your cost and we will determine if it is our fault. Very Very poor customer service. So out with them. Go Shinko.....

244's are popular here in Alabama. Lots of Golden Boys on KLR's, DR's and DRZ's. I like more tread life for my travels though. The 700 is hard to beat IMO.

My last rear TKC-80 threw two knobs and I kept the sucker at 30 psi on the road. It was summer though and I was loaded down, I was on the wear bars at only 4.2K. The last 700 wore down perfectly and it has that center bar that connects the lugs.At 25 psi I can get 4K out of a rear easy. But, I don't like wearing tires down to the point they don't grip much. The side lugs are fairly agressive and hook up better than I expected.

But, this is coming from a guy who likes 705's... I don't see much mud or steep climbs. I do see gravel roads every time I go out though. So, I like the 3.00 700 on the front.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:41 PM   #61204
garnaro
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acerbis fail

Hey guys, just received a message from Jeff at Procycle regarding our eagerly anticipated Acerbis tank. Huge bummer! Thought this would be the perfect tank! . How silly to essentially replicate the IMS offering at higher cost!


I’m sending this email because you have preordered one of the new Acerbis fuel tanks for your DR650. The Acerbis literature states these tanks would be 6.6 gallons (25 liters) capacity but in reality the actual production tanks are only slightly more than 5 gallons (20 liters) capacity. As you can imagine I am deeply disappointed! ProCycle had a lot riding on this new product. We were all very excited!

I have cancelled our initial stocking order of 60+ tanks and I will be cancelling all the open customer orders and returning those payments. If you paid by credit card it may take a couple of days for the returned payment to appear on your account.


I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused.


Please take a moment to make a quick reply to this message so I can keep track of everyone who has been notified.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:53 PM   #61205
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsOnMyBoard View Post
Hey guys, just received a message from Jeff at Procycle regarding our eagerly anticipated Acerbis tank. Huge bummer! Thought this would be the perfect tank! . How silly to essentially replicate the IMS offering at higher cost!


I’m sending this email because you have preordered one of the new Acerbis fuel tanks for your DR650. The Acerbis literature states these tanks would be 6.6 gallons (25 liters) capacity but in reality the actual production tanks are only slightly more than 5 gallons (20 liters) capacity. As you can imagine I am deeply disappointed! ProCycle had a lot riding on this new product. We were all very excited!

I have cancelled our initial stocking order of 60+ tanks and I will be cancelling all the open customer orders and returning those payments. If you paid by credit card it may take a couple of days for the returned payment to appear on your account.

I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused.

Please take a moment to make a quick reply to this message so I can keep track of everyone who has been notified.
Thats stupid to release a tank that offers nothing new, why spend the R&D effort? I guess they think a nicer finished version on the IMS will sell. I bet IMS owners won't feel the need to "upgrade" much..

Why can't they copy the old 6.6 and make it work on a second gen DR650? Sounds too simple I guess. No sense in producing a 5 gallon version, what a waste.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:10 PM   #61206
malokam
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Piedmont, NC
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So guys, I have a GSXR muffler question:

I have the FMF header pipe but the used Mid-Pipe I bought is for stick header. WHat can I do to make this fit?
Here is what I am thinking. Let me know if there is an easier method.

Options
a)Heat it up to expand it.
b)Use some sort of gasket & silicone combo to close the gap down
c)Get a stock header and swap out the FMF.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:27 PM   #61207
doug s.
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Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malokam View Post
So guys, I have a GSXR muffler question:

I have the FMF header pipe but the used Mid-Pipe I bought is for stick header. WHat can I do to make this fit?
Here is what I am thinking. Let me know if there is an easier method.

Options
a)Heat it up to expand it.
b)Use some sort of gasket & silicone combo to close the gap down
c)Get a stock header and swap out the FMF.
i am assuming you mean you bought the fmf high-flow wersion? i would recommend selling the midpipe and getting a
high-flow midpipe...

doug s.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #61208
malokam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
i am assuming you mean you bought the fmf high-flow wersion? i would recommend selling the midpipe and getting a
high-flow midpipe...

doug s.
Yes, I have the FMF hi-flo. Wouldnt expanding be good?

The thing is, I am hapy with the FMF and just repacked it. But I bought the GSXR muffler because it was really great deal.
Now, I dont wanna spend $220 on the midpipe alone.
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WITH GREAT HORSE POWER....... COMES SHITTY GAS MILEAGE .. AND HIGHER INSURANCE PREMIUM....

2007 DR650 SuperMoto with almost all the goodies..(it never ends ya know!)
Take a look at my cool sticker-bombing project
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:32 PM   #61209
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malokam View Post
So guys, I have a GSXR muffler question:

I have the FMF header pipe but the used Mid-Pipe I bought is for stick header. WHat can I do to make this fit?
Here is what I am thinking. Let me know if there is an easier method.

Options
a)Heat it up to expand it.
b)Use some sort of gasket & silicone combo to close the gap down
c)Get a stock header and swap out the FMF.
Maybe it will expand on a machine? I remember some one else saying the local muffler shops couldn't expand a small pipe. Can't hurt to ask...

d) option could be to get the right mid pipe...

A used stock header would be an easy solution, thats probably the less costly way to go if your mid pipe already has the flange on it. Or sell the sucker as a combo if you like your FMF set up. Make some money on a package deal.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:44 PM   #61210
doug s.
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Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malokam View Post
Yes, I have the FMF hi-flo. Wouldnt expanding be good?

The thing is, I am hapy with the FMF and just repacked it. But I bought the GSXR muffler because it was really great deal.
Now, I dont wanna spend $220 on the midpipe alone.
you could prolly expand it, sure. but you won't be getting any hi-flow benefits; it will still be restricted to the narrower diameter of the midpipe. i cannot tell you how to spend your cash, but i can say i bought the keintech hi-flow mid pipe. it cost me $180, cuz i didn't need the bracket adapter w/the tsukigi gxsr can i got... but you likely paid less for your gsxr can than i did for the tsukigi...

look at it this way - no more fmf repacking; you will get your money back from the midpipe inwestment. sell the standard-size midpipe and freshly packed fmf muffler to help w/the initial up-front costs...

doug s.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:27 PM   #61211
JagLite
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Thumb High flow header to midpipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
i am assuming you mean you bought the fmf high-flow wersion? i would recommend selling the midpipe and getting a
high-flow midpipe...

doug s.
+1
Post up an offer to trade if someone has the high flow midpipe and wants to return to stock size. Hey, it could happen.

Or post it up for sale and use that money to buy the high flow midpipe.

OR, if you don't care about the slightly decreased performance of the smaller midpipe, any muffler shop can expand the end out for just a few dollars.
Take the headpipe with you and tell them you want the midpipe to fit snugly in the headpipe.
They can only expand a couple inches (length not dia) but that is more than you need to connect the midpipe to the headpipe.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:05 PM   #61212
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
hi all,

I'm beggining to research the feasibility of doing carb mod to my stock standard 2011 DR650. I was intending to buy the Dynojet Kit, however, noticed the Procycle option. Are both of these kits relatively the same and with the same expected results?

Most of the mods I've read are with Dynojet have been reasonably successful but hoping people can give me any success stories with the procycle kit??

Any guidance would be appreciated.

thanks heaps.
Another option for you to consider. I had pretty good results with my old DR650 just getting the parts from Jesse @ Keintech and cutting the airbox and setting the carb up per his specs. At the time, He sold me a shim for the the stock needle, larger main jet, had me drill out the plug and adjust the mixture (I added the extended adjuster screw) and cut the airbox. I had a Yoshimura slip-on exhaust.

I was pretty happy with that carb setup, but when I got the new DR last year I decided to find an FCR and skip over rejetting the BST this time. Of course I'm really REALLY happy with the FCR, but there is a big bump in cost to go that route. I think it was worth it, but the main improvements were in throttle response and smoothness of the throttle. Once you get the slide open on the properly jetted BST it's still a big improvement over stock, and a lot less expensive than the FCR.

I haven't used it (and they may have changed it since then) but the Dynojet kit had a radical needle, big jet, and recommended a REALLY open airbox. If I was to try and work with the stock BST now I would call Jesse and talk to him for the least expensive option, or consider the Procycle kit. I just took a look at it and it looks like a nice and well thought out kit.

After getting the FCR installed, I am glad I decided to bite the bullet and skip rejetting the BST in favor of the FCR. If you can afford it, I'd take the money you'd spend on the Procycle jet kit and put it towards an FCR or a TM40. If it takes a while to make that happen, I'd get the jet and shim the needle.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:28 PM   #61213
fastnlight
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Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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I just installed a procycle jet kit and modded my airbox and added a new muffler with good results. Just be ready to spend a little time getting the details right if your are not lucky on the first test ride. Lots of folks here to give pointers.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:42 PM   #61214
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I still rather not have my pegs below the skid plate. I would do damage to those plates in short order. It would suck riding home with a torn off peg or two.

You can shorten the stock pegs or get the Procycle offering, no set back, but they don't hang down.

Adam on his Short Way Round blog actually bent the mounting point on the frame. I run loaded and I'm fairly fat so I was concerned this could happen to me:



The blog.... a good read if your not aware of it: http://shortwayround.co.uk/2011/12/2...ano/#more-1622
Didn't bend the mounting point.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=58524

I'd hit plenty of things before, but usually they died.

Lasted for 3 1/2 years though.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:42 PM   #61215
dirtymartini
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Shameless Plug

I'm selling my DR650

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772277
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