the DR650 thread

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by sagedrifter

A 155 Mikuni is like a 165 DJ main. I live near sea level and never could figure out the fat jetting folks like so much. Never needed more than a 150 main with an exhaust upgrade.

The hesitation will go away with the needle at 3, its not a BST that likes the 4th notch. Sounds like its bogging from a rich needle setting.

Procycle sets the TM40 up right for your use, I had it easy with the plug and play TM40.

Not what I wanted to hear. Pulling the carb just to change the needle clip is a bitch but yea it does kinda feel like it's bogging down. I was kinda thinking maybe with the slide drilled it was opening up too fast. I know with the DJ kits on HDs they tend to run rich and there is a lot of disagreement about drilling the slide. I've just changed the needle to an '88 sporty needle and moved up one on the pilot and main jets and left the slide alone with good success.

The hesitaiton is only when I whack the throtte to WOT from around 1/4 to full. Otherwise no hesitation and in normal riding I probably won't be doing to many off idle to full out WOT accelerations. Was getting about 45 mpg and gonna see what I get now for comparison then if significantly different will make jetting/needle changes.

Btw, at sea level as well.

[basketcase]

Originally Posted by sagedrifter

I think the tanks are $359 or so. If it has dual petcocks and can use 100% of the fuel it may be alright. I still like my Safari tank and I would get it all over again. I do like a 6 gallon size though but, I guess I'll have to put up with my 9 gallon piss colored super tanker. I hate looking for fuel when I'm having fun in the middle of nowhere.....

I have been waiting on this tank, like some others, for a while now. I was really looking forward to the 6.6 gallon capacity.

The pictures I saw before Procycle pulled them from their website showed dual petcocks.

Not having to lay the bike over to get the last half-gallon of fuel when needed might be worthwhile.

The smaller than promised capacity is a disappointment and I'm still mulling whether it is $100 worth of worthwhile for the dual petcocks, but I've not yet ruled out the tank.

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Thanks.....Might have to try the 155. I used the recommendations in the ProCycle Instructions with the 150 for free flowing exhaust and 155 for race exhaust. I assuemd the F40F0x was free flow rather than race.

The hesitation your describing is the reason many of us prefer a pumper carb. Your results sound correct. A larger main will not quicken a vac carbs throttle response.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Not what I wanted to hear. Pulling the carb just to change the needle clip is a bitch but yea it does kinda feel like it's bogging down. I was kinda thinking maybe with the slide drilled it was opening up too fast. I know with the DJ kits on HDs they tend to run rich and there is a lot of disagreement about drilling the slide. I've just changed the needle to an '88 sporty needle and moved up one on the pilot and main jets and left the slide alone with good success.

The hesitaiton is only when I whack the throtte to WOT from around 1/4 to full. Otherwise no hesitation and in normal riding I probably won't be doing to many off idle to full out WOT accelerations. Was getting about 45 mpg and gonna see what I get now for comparison then if significantly different will make jetting/needle changes.

Btw, at sea level as well.

I miss read your post and had a TM40 on the brain. Well I think your talking about the stock carb? The HD talk had me thinking HS40.

Disregard the needle info, 4th or two up from the bottom is right.

Its just a vac carb. Ride it for a while, the 150 main jet is fine.

You will always have the BST rubber band wind up.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Drilled and thread removererer thingy.

Thx.

[TimCC]

Originally Posted by shu

Someone explain this wear to me since I don't seem to have it. Loose chain, tight chain? Undersprung, letting the back end bottom out too much? Too many jumps? What gives?

..............shu

I would bet that it was the result of someone setting the chain tension tight like a road bike not realizing how much the geometry changes on a bike with long travel. Maybe setting the sag wrong? Or maybe it's because the bike came from Gary, Indiana.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Not what I wanted to hear. Pulling the carb just to change the needle clip is a bitch but yea it does kinda feel like it's bogging down.

Stock Carb? Carb does not need to come out ... just loosen both steel bands holding the carb to air box/manifold and rotate it left ... now you can pull the top off the get to needle.

Should take just a few minutes. You may have to remove choke & throttle cables ... not too hard. Use caution with rubber diaphram and replacing needle into jet needle.

Do the same to access float bowl. Rotate other way ... pull bowl, Main jet, Pilot ... all there. Handle float mech. with care.

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by basketcase

I have been waiting on this tank, like some others, for a while now. I was really looking forward to the 6.6 gallon capacity.

The pictures I saw before Procycle pulled them from their website showed dual petcocks.

Not having to lay the bike over to get the last half-gallon of fuel when needed might be worthwhile.

The smaller than promised capacity is a disappointment and I'm still mulling whether it is $100 worth of worthwhile for the dual petcocks, but I've not yet ruled out the tank.

The last I heard about the single petcock was tonight over on drriders. Its still all guess work till the actual production tank gets into some ones hands.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk

[shu]

Originally Posted by sagedrifter

Fast riding??? Good looks? I don't know, wish mine would last 42K. I spend most of my miles bouncing around loaded on rough roads. My chain is not tight. Please do tell your secrete, I hate popping $30 for one.

Fast riding- yeah. Good looks....uh, nope.

I don't know. Here's what I see when I look at this pic: (disclaimer: I might be a complete idiot, this is the internet you know.)



To get that swing arm into position where the chain could grind it at that angle, the rear wheel would need to be swung up all the way to the end of it's travel. Maybe that bike had a heavy rider or was overloaded and the rear shock kept bottoming out? Funny that the chain shows no signs of wear on the inner edge.

My bike is oversprung. Its springs, front and rear, are designed to carry me, 30 pounds of add-ons like center stand, panniers and racks, skid plate, etc plus 40 pounds of gear, 2 spare tires, 2+ extra gallons of gas in the IMS tank and 2 more gallons strapped to the bike, and a couple gallons of water, and a bunch of tools.

In other words, even though I only weigh 155 pounds, the bike is set up for a 250 pound load (Jesse Keintech recommended the suspension changes when I was setting up the bike to go to Kazakhstan).

Sagedrifter- I know you have a bunch of stuff on your bike, and a Safari tank- maybe all the extra weight allows the chain to bite into your swingarm protector?

.............shu

[fastnlight]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Thanks.....Might have to try the 155. I used the recommendations in the ProCycle Instructions with the 150 for free flowing exhaust and 155 for race exhaust. I assuemd the F40F0x was free flow rather than race.

I made the same assumption with my fmf q4 and stock header but it still needs choke to start and the throttle smoothness and power bump was more obvious than i would have guessed. I ain't touching it now.

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by sagedrifter

I miss read your post and had a TM40 on the brain. Well I think your talking about the stock carb? The HD talk had me thinking HS40.

Disregard the needle info, 4th or two up from the bottom is right.

Its just a vac carb. Ride it for a while, the 150 main jet is fine.

You will always have the BST rubber band wind up.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk

Sorry for the confusion, but yea it's the stock carb.

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Stock Carb? Carb does not need to come out ... just loosen both steel bands holding the carb to air box/manifold and rotate it left ... now you can pull the top off the get to needle.

Should take just a few minutes. You may have to remove choke & throttle cables ... not too hard. Use caution with rubber diaphram and replacing needle into jet needle.

Do the same to access float bowl. Rotate other way ... pull bowl, Main jet, Pilot ... all there. Handle float mech. with care.

Good tip, I was wondeing if I could do that but didn't know if there was enough clearance.

Think I'l ride it a little, check fuel mileage and make decison later.

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by shu

Fast riding- yeah. Good looks....uh, nope.

I don't know. Here's what I see when I look at this pic: (disclaimer: I might be a complete idiot, this is the internet you know.)



To get that swing arm into position where the chain could grind it at that angle, the rear wheel would need to be swung up all the way to the end of it's travel. Maybe that bike had a heavy rider or was overloaded and the rear shock kept bottoming out? Funny that the chain shows no signs of wear on the inner edge.

My bike is oversprung. Its springs, front and rear, are designed to carry me, 30 pounds of add-ons like center stand, panniers and racks, skid plate, etc plus 40 pounds of gear, 2 spare tires, 2+ extra gallons of gas in the IMS tank and 2 more gallons strapped to the bike, and a couple gallons of water, and a bunch of tools.

In other words, even though I only weigh 155 pounds, the bike is set up for a 250 pound load (Jesse Keintech recommended the suspension changes when I was setting up the bike to go to Kazakhstan).

Sagedrifter- I know you have a bunch of stuff on your bike, and a Safari tank- maybe all the extra weight allows the chain to bite into your swingarm protector?

.............shu

Well, I do cycle the suspension a bunch, maybe thats it.

I run the .50/8.3 springs and if I set my chain with any more slack it would be hanging from the center stand. I've read about a few guys wearing out the chain buffer slide thingy, so its not all that rare.

There was a recent thread about it over on DRRiders. I think my guard wore out too quick, not sure what I could do to stop that from occurring. A better suspension perhaps would help. I'm just running springs.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by blk-betty

Think I'l ride it a little, check fuel mileage and make decison later.

There ya go, making good decisions.

[goodcat8]

Tech Question.
My bike keeps stalling out. As if the RPMs drop to low and she cuts out. I know she's supposed to idle at 1500 (as stated on the engine) my vapor shows her idling around 1200-1100 then she stalls. It's appearing that my idle knob on my TM40 carb isn't doing anything. It used too!
I twist left and right looking for any indication that it's adjusting the idle and get nothing.
I'm hoping that's the case and I just need to somehow fix that, turn up the idle abit and be done with it, before I go through and start checking clogs in the fuel system.
Any input would be appreciated.