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Old 03-20-2012, 03:55 PM   #61666
AST236
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Preaching to the choir

I know this is not a revelation to the members of this thread, but as a newbie DR650 owner (long time rider and dualsporter, but my first DR650) I just got back from an hour long back road ride and have come to the conclusion that w/ street tires and stock gearing (or -1 on the c/s sprocket), the DR is a seriously good street bike.

Mine currently has some fairly knobby Kenda's on it so it sounds like a 4X4 going down the road.

I understand now why so many people buy them as commuter bikes. I"m thinking that w/ a SeatConcepts seat and some less aggressive rubber, I can ride this thing just about anywhere I can take the VFR. I don't think I want to ride the interstate w/ it (I don't like to ride the interstate at all unless I just have to get from point A to point B in the shortest time possible) but for riding two lane, 55 mph roads, the DR seems very well suited.

I like the sit up riding position and while there is no real wind protection to speak of, the wind that hits me is clean and relatively quiet.

Anyway, no real news here. Just thought I'd share. I think I"m going to like this one!
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:45 PM   #61667
epix1718
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Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:54 PM   #61668
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Yes the bumper is the travel limit but not sure about how the valving will work with the different travel limit. Not sure if the valving is linear or progressive?

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I believe the main limiting factor for shock travel on the stock DR is the bump stop (shock cushion, whatever) and of course the spring seat. It looks like the shock in your picture has a shock cushion. Couldn't you alter its length as neede or maybe buy a longer generic one.

Interesting how these things (like lowering) seem to come up by many at the same time
Received this today from ProCycle. Had them do the install of the Racetech valving and a spring to carry my weight and luggage. Spring looks a little short? I'm not a big fan of Racetech products but wanted to go with this upgrade to retain the factory lowering option. From my years of DualSport riding and travels I have experienced more problems for riders from high seat height tip overs than grounding out on the frame. Will be using Ricor "Intiminators" on the front end. Not sure how all this will work since the Racetech equipped rear shock doesn't have the option to limit travel as the factory shock does and also not sure how front end with the "Intiminators" will work with the front end factory lowering option. Will be about two months till I have time for install and testing.

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TRAVELGUY screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 04:59 PM Reason: need photo
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:58 PM   #61669
Mercenary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I can run aggressive tires at 28 psi up to 70 mph or so with a touring load. I really notice wiggle above 75. The rear will wiggle around even with a mild TKC with 30 psi, I drop the pressure to 28 and it is much better, at 25 psi it goes away.
I've got to wonder how much heat you are generating in the tire carcass by running it at lower pressures and at highway speeds. Heat kills tires and the more flex you have in the carcass, the more heat you are going to generate.....

Might not be a good idea to run tires at lower pressures on the highways.....
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:06 PM   #61670
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?
These are the best pics I have of the cables. Does yours look like this? How far apart did you have the carb? Off the bike? What were you doing?

You can see the return spring in the second pic. Does the throttle rotate freely without the cables? Mine has a nice positive spring pressure and snappy return, turning by hand at the carb. The cables slide in-and-out smoothly.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 05:20 PM
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:13 PM   #61671
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?

do you have a cable pinched or kinked somewhere? Almost sounds like they are on backwards from your starting experience or adjusted incorrectly... Does the throttle operate smoothly disconnected from the carb? If all else fails, break out the book and start from scratch...
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:22 PM   #61672
epix1718
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Thanks for the info.

Carb is fully assemebled and on the bike, attached firmly to the motor and air box.

When not attached to the carb the cables slide in/out with ease. Just to make sure I have it correct, when I pull the throttle back the cable should extend out, while the push should retract? That's my understanding at the moment. When disconnected from the carb, should the throttle snap right back to "rest" when I let go of it while rotating?.. because mine just stays put.

The carb itself the throttle rotation thingy-ma-bob rotates freely with no cables attached, lots of spring tension when fully rotated and snaps right back when let off. I'll keep playing with it til I figure it out.
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98 Honda XR250R
85 Yamaha BIG Wheel 200 & 88 BIG Wheel 350
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:35 PM   #61673
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
I've got to wonder how much heat you are generating in the tire carcass by running it at lower pressures and at highway speeds. Heat kills tires and the more flex you have in the carcass, the more heat you are going to generate.....

Might not be a good idea to run tires at lower pressures on the highways.....
I don't run lower pressures than what's specified on the swing arm.

I think the OEM pressures are 22/24 psi. I usually stay above that. Just slightly less than two up pressures when I'm touring with a full load.

Over inflation makes the bike handle poorly. I adjust the tire pressures for the load. 24/24 psi works well on forestry roads when loaded for day trips.

Over inflation for the weight being carried reduces traction, comfort, tread life etc.


A properly inflated 705 tire on the rear will last me 6K and I see 70 mph often.








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Old 03-20-2012, 05:41 PM   #61674
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
. When disconnected from the carb, should the throttle snap right back to "rest" when I let go of it while rotating?.. because mine just stays put.

The carb itself the throttle rotation thingy-ma-bob rotates freely with no cables attached, lots of spring tension when fully rotated and snaps right back when let off. I'll keep playing with it til I figure it out.

If the cables are NOT connected to the carb the throttle should be in the closed position and will go back if operated by hand. did you take the throttle spring off by chance? Maybe put it on backwards and the spring is now holding it Wide Open?

Your two statements there seem to contradict themselves and I am not sure what you mean. I couldn't find "thingy-ma-bob" in the manual.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:44 PM   #61675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Thanks for the info.

Carb is fully assemebled and on the bike, attached firmly to the motor and air box.

When not attached to the carb the cables slide in/out with ease. Just to make sure I have it correct, when I pull the throttle back the cable should extend out, while the push should retract?
No, cables pull, they never push. When you roll the throttle 'on' the rear cable retracts, pulling the throttle CCW at the carb. Sounds like you want it to pull CW?
Quote:
That's my understanding at the moment. When disconnected from the carb, should the throttle snap right back to "rest" when I let go of it while rotating?.. because mine just stays put.
When the cables are disconnected the throttle tube will stay wherever you leave it, there's no spring for the cables.

Quote:
The carb itself the throttle rotation thingy-ma-bob rotates freely with no cables attached, lots of spring tension when fully rotated and snaps right back when let off. I'll keep playing with it til I figure it out.
This is correct, so the carb's ok.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 05:52 PM Reason: Duelling with Mongle
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:47 PM   #61676
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.
i'm sure you've already tried a bit of lube? just in case you haven't, i had exactly the same prob last weekend. maybe a bit of dirt worked its way in while i was messing around? just squirted a bit of lube into the cable ends and it was good as gold again.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #61677
Mercenary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I don't run lower pressures than what's specified on the swing arm.
Ah. My bad then. I didn't have my DR specs close at hand so wasn't sure what the OEM recommended pressures were....
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:05 PM   #61678
kezzajohnson
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try this

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
recently relocated to another city and when lounge suit arrived, it was covered in light mould spots. found an old wives tale that spraying a mix of water and oil of clove works a treat. About a teaspoon to 1 litre water. Spray on, leave about 20 mins, wipe off and reapply. Used the same trick recently on my gloves which I didn't dry out after a wet ride and now they're like new but smell like a dental surgery.

Give it a go anyway.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:14 PM   #61679
kezzajohnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I don't lube my cables, the housings are made to self lube. I do lube the exposed ends with white lithium grease.

Too much lube will attract dirt and gum up things. My oldest bike is about 12 years old and the cables are still good, no lube on those. Just the exposed parts see some grease.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong... :p

If it ain't broke fix it anyway, if its all rusted up, lube may help. I would just replace the cable if the sucker was draging bad.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk
The DR's cables are teflon lined and not designed to be lubed. Not a bad idea to lube the pivot points now and again though.
Simply replace if they get knotchy.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:24 PM   #61680
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercenary View Post
I've got to wonder how much heat you are generating in the tire carcass by running it at lower pressures and at highway speeds. Heat kills tires and the more flex you have in the carcass, the more heat you are going to generate.....

Might not be a good idea to run tires at lower pressures on the highways.....
Have you read your owners manual? Suzuki recommends 22 psi front, 25 psi rear. I didn't believe those pressures either ... but after 7 or 8 sets on two sets of wheels I'm convinced they are pretty much spot on. This true both for knobbies, 50/50's and street tires.

Safedrifter has got it right, IMO. I add a little more air as I'm 200 lbs. and carry luggage. So on highway, maybe 24/28 or so. I've found I get the most even wear and most miles running below 30 PSI, even with a full load. YMMV.
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