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Old 03-20-2012, 12:16 PM   #61666
MADurstewitz
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Joisey, not far from NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
Spray vinegar and water mixture in there.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:03 PM   #61667
Toxic Mark
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Location: San Jose, CA
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tires

I recently mounted Kenda Big Blocks on my DR (OEM wheel set) and immediately noticed that I have lost highway speed stability (wobbles) anywhere above 65 mph indicated. Is this what I should have expected? When I ride with my brother who lives at the foot of the San Bernadino mountains I'm happy to have the knobs, but when I am back up in the Bay Area where I have to slab it to get to dirt I hate them.

I've toyed with the idea of a second wheel set with something along the lines of GP-1s. I've tried troubleshooting the wobble with no success. And I don't want to be swapping tires everytime I head south.

Ideas? Advice? How stable is your DR at highway speeds? And what tires are you on that provide that stability? Would a 19" front provide more stability over a 21" given the same tire?

-Mark
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:16 PM   #61668
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Mystery battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt McGirt View Post
Hey thanks for the info guys.

I looked up the shorai, and I don't think that's the one I was thinking of.
(might be newer and better than the ones I was thinking of anyway)

You guys remember what the old electric Remote Control car batteries looked like?

They look like about six cells, bigger than double A, in two rows of three, side by side.....shrink wrapped.......
.......with a pigtail that has a connector on the end.

I saw some batteries that were for motorcycles, that resembled the old RC car batteries very much.

People had been running them in DRs and DRZs, but I can't remember where I saw them.

I want to say they only weighed around a pound or so. I couldn't find any weights for the Shorais, but in the pics they looked bigger. (maybe not, nothing to compare them to in the pics)
I know what you are talking about, a very home-made looking battery.
But very clean looking, not a negative about how it looks.

But, where did I see that?

I would guess it was on ADV.
I think someone custom makes them and sells them, or you could make your own.
I think it was a thread of its own.
It was not DR specific although at least one person was using it...
Of course, with my faulty memory I could be completely wrong but that's what I remember today. Tomorrow? who knows...

It looked, as you say, like a white shrink wrapped battery pack for an RC car.
Very small and light, and you could make your own with just a little soldering and shrink wrap.

I just got my EVO2 battery in the mail yesterday and it is so.... cute.
That is the only word that comes to mind. It looks like a toy battery.
It is red and has the spiral wound case shape.
I may have to mount it exposed on the bike so it can be appreciated.
Or giggled over for being so tiny.

I would suggest a google search of ADV and plan to spend time going through a lot of potential threads....
Don't get lost by following other interesting topics like I always do.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:27 PM   #61669
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic Mark View Post
I recently mounted Kenda Big Blocks on my DR (OEM wheel set) and immediately noticed that I have lost highway speed stability (wobbles) anywhere above 65 mph indicated. Is this what I should have expected? When I ride with my brother who lives at the foot of the San Bernadino mountains I'm happy to have the knobs, but when I am back up in the Bay Area where I have to slab it to get to dirt I hate them.

I've toyed with the idea of a second wheel set with something along the lines of GP-1s. I've tried troubleshooting the wobble with no success. And I don't want to be swapping tires everytime I head south.

Ideas? Advice? How stable is your DR at highway speeds? And what tires are you on that provide that stability? Would a 19" front provide more stability over a 21" given the same tire?

-Mark
Big Blocks are fairly soft and aggressive, the will feel squirmy at speed when aired up. My first thought is too much air pressure.

I can run aggressive tires at 28 psi up to 70 mph or so with a touring load. I really notice wiggle above 75. The rear will wiggle around even with a mild TKC with 30 psi, I drop the pressure to 28 and it is much better, at 25 psi it goes away.

I really like the Shinko 700 as an all rounder, nice and stabil on the pavement and good on most surfaces. The 244 Shinko is cheap and better off road but, short lived on pavement.

Tires are always a compromise, I like to run a mild knob on the front and a mild DS tire like a 700, Anakee, 705, Kenda 761 etc. on the rear. I've been running the 700 Shinko on the front lately and its actually decent on gravel roads and dirt trails with the mild 705 on the rear.

If your an aggressive DS rider that does ride slab at speed, try a MT 21 / Shinko 700 combo or maybe a Mefo on the rear.

I have not tried GP-1's, I usually go with a cheaper option. If I was going to spend the money, I would try the Mefo option.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:30 PM   #61670
Motodeficient
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Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
or adobe acrobat pro.

doug s.
Yeah, its pretty easy to make notes and corrections on PDF files.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:34 PM   #61671
SBG
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Curious at to what wheel widths you chose? Defnitely not a standard front width I'm guessing, but did you get a wider rear wheel also?

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
Those are warp 9. I love procycle everything but the warp 9's are almost half the price of the excels and thus far in the 1600 miles I've put on them they certainly don't feel half the quality. Plus there's color options for no additional cost which was cool because I wanted black.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:32 PM   #61672
Booyashaka
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Ott-a-wah
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Wicked MAXIMUM homemade deoderizer

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
After all the washing you've already done, I doubt you still have mould/mildew. It is likely just an odour problem at this point.

This works for skunk too, if you happen to have an unlucky dog....

Mix these ingredients in the following proportions:
1 quart (or liter) of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, H2O2.
1/4 cup (50 ml.) of Baking Soda
1 teaspoon (5 ml.) of Liquid Soap

If this doesn't do the trick, I don't know what will.

PS, if you ever do need to use this to de-skunk a pet, keep it away from their eyes and nose, but you'll be amazed how quickly (and how well) it works.

Good luck!
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:42 PM   #61673
dogjaw
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Location: between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
Oddometer: 2,685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic Mark View Post
I recently mounted Kenda Big Blocks on my DR (OEM wheel set) and immediately noticed that I have lost highway speed stability (wobbles) anywhere above 65 mph indicated. Is this what I should have expected? When I ride with my brother who lives at the foot of the San Bernadino mountains I'm happy to have the knobs, but when I am back up in the Bay Area where I have to slab it to get to dirt I hate them.

I've toyed with the idea of a second wheel set with something along the lines of GP-1s. I've tried troubleshooting the wobble with no success. And I don't want to be swapping tires everytime I head south.

Ideas? Advice? How stable is your DR at highway speeds? And what tires are you on that provide that stability? Would a 19" front provide more stability over a 21" given the same tire?

-Mark
I love the 700's, to the point that I am second guessing going to a 19" front wheel, as Shinko doesn't make that size, would have to go to a 705 or 244... I'm on my original front and second rear, and they seem to do great wherever I've taken them except for the muddy ditch in front of my house, love them on the twisties.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:55 PM   #61674
AST236
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Lower Alabama
Oddometer: 1,963
Preaching to the choir

I know this is not a revelation to the members of this thread, but as a newbie DR650 owner (long time rider and dualsporter, but my first DR650) I just got back from an hour long back road ride and have come to the conclusion that w/ street tires and stock gearing (or -1 on the c/s sprocket), the DR is a seriously good street bike.

Mine currently has some fairly knobby Kenda's on it so it sounds like a 4X4 going down the road.

I understand now why so many people buy them as commuter bikes. I"m thinking that w/ a SeatConcepts seat and some less aggressive rubber, I can ride this thing just about anywhere I can take the VFR. I don't think I want to ride the interstate w/ it (I don't like to ride the interstate at all unless I just have to get from point A to point B in the shortest time possible) but for riding two lane, 55 mph roads, the DR seems very well suited.

I like the sit up riding position and while there is no real wind protection to speak of, the wind that hits me is clean and relatively quiet.

Anyway, no real news here. Just thought I'd share. I think I"m going to like this one!
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:45 PM   #61675
epix1718
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Location: Michigan/Indiana border
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Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #61676
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 557
Yes the bumper is the travel limit but not sure about how the valving will work with the different travel limit. Not sure if the valving is linear or progressive?

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
I believe the main limiting factor for shock travel on the stock DR is the bump stop (shock cushion, whatever) and of course the spring seat. It looks like the shock in your picture has a shock cushion. Couldn't you alter its length as neede or maybe buy a longer generic one.

Interesting how these things (like lowering) seem to come up by many at the same time
Received this today from ProCycle. Had them do the install of the Racetech valving and a spring to carry my weight and luggage. Spring looks a little short? I'm not a big fan of Racetech products but wanted to go with this upgrade to retain the factory lowering option. From my years of DualSport riding and travels I have experienced more problems for riders from high seat height tip overs than grounding out on the frame. Will be using Ricor "Intiminators" on the front end. Not sure how all this will work since the Racetech equipped rear shock doesn't have the option to limit travel as the factory shock does and also not sure how front end with the "Intiminators" will work with the front end factory lowering option. Will be about two months till I have time for install and testing.

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TRAVELGUY screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 03:59 PM Reason: need photo
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:58 PM   #61677
Mercenary
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Location: Ft St John, BC Canada
Oddometer: 964
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I can run aggressive tires at 28 psi up to 70 mph or so with a touring load. I really notice wiggle above 75. The rear will wiggle around even with a mild TKC with 30 psi, I drop the pressure to 28 and it is much better, at 25 psi it goes away.
I've got to wonder how much heat you are generating in the tire carcass by running it at lower pressures and at highway speeds. Heat kills tires and the more flex you have in the carcass, the more heat you are going to generate.....

Might not be a good idea to run tires at lower pressures on the highways.....
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:06 PM   #61678
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?
These are the best pics I have of the cables. Does yours look like this? How far apart did you have the carb? Off the bike? What were you doing?

You can see the return spring in the second pic. Does the throttle rotate freely without the cables? Mine has a nice positive spring pressure and snappy return, turning by hand at the carb. The cables slide in-and-out smoothly.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 03-20-2012, 04:13 PM   #61679
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
Grrr, for the life of me I'm have some issues hooking up the throttle cables to the stock carb. I put both cables on (push cable on frontmost, pull cable on rearmost) and both cables have tension, but as I rotate the throttle back to WOT and release it just sticks, not returning to rest.

I can rotate the throttle by hand but whatever position I leave it at it won't return to rest. I attached just the pull cable and the throttle fully at rest and start the bike it starts up like it is at WOT. This is very frustrating! First time I've ever done something like this so what am I doing wrong?

do you have a cable pinched or kinked somewhere? Almost sounds like they are on backwards from your starting experience or adjusted incorrectly... Does the throttle operate smoothly disconnected from the carb? If all else fails, break out the book and start from scratch...
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:22 PM   #61680
epix1718
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Thanks for the info.

Carb is fully assemebled and on the bike, attached firmly to the motor and air box.

When not attached to the carb the cables slide in/out with ease. Just to make sure I have it correct, when I pull the throttle back the cable should extend out, while the push should retract? That's my understanding at the moment. When disconnected from the carb, should the throttle snap right back to "rest" when I let go of it while rotating?.. because mine just stays put.

The carb itself the throttle rotation thingy-ma-bob rotates freely with no cables attached, lots of spring tension when fully rotated and snaps right back when let off. I'll keep playing with it til I figure it out.
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