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Old 03-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #61666
TeeVee
His mudda was a mudda!
 
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Miami/Managua
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Mold/mildew in boots

So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:24 AM   #61667
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,352
I don't lube my cables, the housings are made to self lube. I do lube the exposed ends with white lithium grease.

Too much lube will attract dirt and gum up things. My oldest bike is about 12 years old and the cables are still good, no lube on those. Just the exposed parts see some grease.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong... :p

If it ain't broke fix it anyway, if its all rusted up, lube may help. I would just replace the cable if the sucker was draging bad.

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Old 03-20-2012, 09:34 AM   #61668
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Bugger all.
NOT what is mentioned in the manual.
Blue loctite and snug it up.
My PDF service manual lists 40 ft/lbs for the lower shock bolt..... hmm I hope I didn't damage anything...

Motodeficient screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 09:42 AM
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:43 AM   #61669
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Are you thinking of Ultralight batteries?

http://syclbatt.com/

Big thread in Vendors:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=629665

Sarah
Are you guys talking about the ballistic

http://www.amazon.com/BALLISTIC-PERF.../dp/B005KLOYYC
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:58 AM   #61670
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureChick View Post
So im going to replace the cush drive rubbers and bearings both just for safe keeping. I read something about the all ball bearing being not so good so i won't be using those ones!

Any suggestions on using stock or any other brand for the bearings?

Thanks Guys!
Jenna
I like the oem bearings, they have a good reputation. You can make them double sealed by re-using your old seals. The link shows how, starting at post #81. #83 has more info. Be sure to see BergDonk's note about using a small screwdriver instead of a pick like I did in the pics.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=634749&page=5

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
The cush bearing could last 50,000 miles. Your best off inspecting the bearings on every tire change. Installation methods can damage a new bearing, all thread and nuts/washers work.
Pics using all thread here:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=59430
Quote:
I never use pressure washers or even a garden hose near my bearings.
Neither do I. Note: warm, soapy water has a lower surface tension than water from the hose, it will wick its way into much tighter openings like electrical plugs, bearings, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlmoulto View Post
So, I am picking up my DR650 this week...2004 with 2700kms on it! basically mint shape.

My question relates to the possibility of my wife riding the bike. I am fully aware of the factory lowering options but wondering about potentially using lowering links for my wife? How much more would the lowering links provide? Anyone done this and can report back on the good/bad of doing this?

btw the bike comes with the gel seat (yeah I know that it is not the best but is lower!). Could I theoretically get the bike to around 30" with the seat, factory lowering and lowering links or is that expecting too much?
I've seen that lowering links are available for the DR. What kind of riding? My DR is very top heavy. Would she be happier on a 250 like an XT250?
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:27 AM   #61671
thumpididump
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Location: Germany
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I would be inclined to try a strong solution of ammonia and water. Submerse the boots for a day. If any mould survives that, I'd be surprised. Shouldn't cause any discoloration or damage to the boots.




Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:27 AM   #61672
MAXNX
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sussex,WI
Oddometer: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
Maybe try putting a thing of baking soda in each boot after you wash them again. I had a Mildew problem in the front compartment of my boat after it got wet from camping in the rain all weekend. It was terrible,stunk up the whole garage. Baking Soda did the trick.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:41 AM   #61673
joefromsf
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 1,382
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
My PDF service manual lists 40 ft/lbs for the lower shock bolt..... hmm I hope I didn't damage anything...
I guess with all the errors in the service manual, there's a good case for having a hardcopy where you can make corrections.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:43 AM   #61674
doug s.
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Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
I guess with all the errors in the service manual, there's a good case for having a hardcopy where you can make corrections.
or adobe acrobat pro.

doug s.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:15 AM   #61675
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 526
Received this today from ProCycle. Had them do the install of the Racetech valving and a spring to carry my weight and luggage. Spring looks a little short? I'm not a big fan of Racetech products but wanted to go with this upgrade to retain the factory lowering option. From my years of DualSport riding and travels I have experienced more problems for riders from high seat height tip overs than grounding out on the frame. Will be using Ricor "Intiminators" on the front end. Not sure how all this will work since the Racetech equipped rear shock doesn't have the option to limit travel as the factory shock does and also not sure how front end with the "Intiminators" will work with the front end factory lowering option. Will be about two months till I have time for install and testing.

TravelGuy

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...CKPROCYCLE.jpg
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:18 AM   #61676
Fabone
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: outside the Willamette Valley
Oddometer: 99
I recently had a heater core puke on the front carpet and could not get the odor out. Found a cleaner in the store called KIDS'n'PETS. This stuff works. http://www.kidsnpetsbrand.com/

If nothing else, use White vinegar instead of bleach.




Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:36 AM   #61677
Rumlover
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
Received this today from ProCycle. Had them do the install of the Racetech valving and a spring to carry my weight and luggage. Spring looks a little short? I'm not a big fan of Racetech products but wanted to go with this upgrade to retain the factory lowering option. From my years of DualSport riding and travels I have experienced more problems for riders from high seat height tip overs than grounding out on the frame. Will be using Ricor "Intiminators" on the front end. Not sure how all this will work since the Racetech equipped rear shock doesn't have the option to limit travel as the factory shock does and also not sure how front end with the "Intiminators" will work with the front end factory lowering option. Will be about two months till I have time for install and testing.

TravelGuy

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...CKPROCYCLE.jpg

I believe the main limiting factor for shock travel on the stock DR is the bump stop (shock cushion, whatever) and of course the spring seat. It looks like the shock in your picture has a shock cushion. Couldn't you alter its length as neede or maybe buy a longer generic one.

Interesting how these things (like lowering) seem to come up by many at the same time
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:39 AM   #61678
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlmoulto View Post
So, I am picking up my DR650 this week...2004 with 2700kms on it! basically mint shape.

My question relates to the possibility of my wife riding the bike. I am fully aware of the factory lowering options but wondering about potentially using lowering links for my wife? How much more would the lowering links provide? Anyone done this and can report back on the good/bad of doing this?

btw the bike comes with the gel seat (yeah I know that it is not he best but is lower!). Could I theoretically get the bike to around 30" with the seat, factory lowering and lowering links or is that expecting too much?
I would first try using the factory lowering option (front and rear) with your low seat. See how that works.

You know, your wife needs to realize the DR is not a Tricycle or a Chopper that you can paddle around on. It's a dual sport.

And she needs to learn that she need not have both feet flat on the floor to control the bike. Just by her scooting over to one side of the seat, she can easily get a boot down solid. Or ... at 5'6" (that is tall) she should be touching both tip toes easily with just the factory lowering option, which is enough. Some time on the bike and practice will make this a non issue.

We sold a new DR650 to a female rider who was 5' even. We used a lowering link, which dropped the bike about 2". Then had the seat cut out. It was incredibly low. It fit her perfect. So it can be ... and has been done. Try to balance the front and rear, lowering both equally ... or more or less equally. If she is a new rider ... I'd start her on a 125 for a year until she has all the survival skills.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:45 AM   #61679
TaZ9
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Northern Colorado
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Try this...it's worked in the past...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabone View Post
I recently had a heater core puke on the front carpet and could not get the odor out. Found a cleaner in the store called KIDS'n'PETS. This stuff works. http://www.kidsnpetsbrand.com/

.
Try using white vinegar (as used on salads) mixed with water to wash you boots. Let stand for a few hours, then rinse with clear water. Let them dry and then use baking soda as mentioned by Manx. Sprinkle in liberally and leave it overnight and shake out excess. White vinegar works great for cleaning many things and is far less harmful to the materials used in your boots than chlorine or ammonia products. You can even use white vinegar in your washer to prewash stinky riding gear.

OOPs! This was meant to answer TeeVee's smelly boot problem. Might work for carpet too!

Taz9

TaZ9 screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 11:51 AM Reason: grammer
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:50 AM   #61680
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Enduro Riders Tips 101- section 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
Wow! I wonder kind of awful mold is going on there! Here is what I would try:
1. Wash boots with laundry soap and water to flush out Lysol. Wash entire inside boot and sole area.
2. Rinse clean.
3. Make a 50/50 Bleach/Water solution and apply to entire inside of boot. Scrub. Let Bleach solution sit for one minute only.
Scrub entire inside of boot with bristile brush ... hard.
4. Rinse clean with plenty of water.
5. Dry and hope for the best.

Bleach should kill whatever is there ... on contact. If you let it sit it will eat up your liner. Not good. But very brief exposure should be OK and hopefully will kill off the evil scourge. All the best!
(A very through rinse is critical. Leave no residue)

Store boots on their sides ... not standing upright. Put newspaper inside ...
or Silica bags. Store in cool and very dry place. Works for me.
To keep water out of your boots ... treat leather with SNO-SEAL ... bake in oven, low heat.
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