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Old 03-20-2012, 12:14 AM   #61741
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
So, a 705 has had tread seperation on a DR650 with OEM air pressure?

I beat the crap out of my tires, so far I've only had one rear tire loose tread on the DR and it was a TKC-80. I figure it was due to the 80 mph riding I did down in FL for long periods. Maybe not? It suprised me because I was running 32 psi (over inflated) and it was winter, around 60 degrees at the time. I did have camping gear and was loaded fairly heavy. I probably had 370 pounds on the bike including me.. I carry tools, tubes, air compressor and etc..

The 705 has been the longest lasting tire I've tried, I run them down smooth in the center, thats 6K. I have learned that 28 psi is my loaded sweet spot for tread life. Around town I run 25 psi in the rear. I tend to run 22 to 24 psi in the front.
I run 26f/28r on the road and 20f/18r off road on the DR650 and 22f/24r on road and 14f/12r on the TT350.

The DR front is at 22,000km now and still has a couple of thousand left in it.

10,000km on the TT350 rear and still a thousand in it.
The TT gets used for everything. Had a few disbelieving looks during single track rides
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:03 AM   #61742
jon_l
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Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
The barrel attachment at the ends need to be lubed every now and then so the cable doesn't bind and break but the inside of the cable should be fine with no lubing. Mine still have a nice smooth pull. (2008 with 42,000 miles.) I did replace my clutch cable when one strand wore through on the bottom attachment point- this was a rubbing issue, not a lube problem, though.

.........shu
Shu - that is encouraging.

I am hoping someone knows and will post confirmation whether our cables need lube. The download PDF manual indicates yes, they do need lube.

Since mine seem fine right now, I am concerned that I may cause an issue rather than prevent one, if in fact these cables have a coating inside that would be harmed by cable lube.

Anybody?
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:13 AM   #61743
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Shu - that is encouraging.

I am hoping someone knows and will post confirmation whether our cables need lube. The download PDF manual indicates yes, they do need lube.

Since mine seem fine right now, I am concerned that I may cause an issue rather than prevent one, if in fact these cables have a coating inside that would be harmed by cable lube.

Anybody?
I believe all the Japanese built bikes these days come with high quality nylon lined cables. I have injected Tri Flow lubricant through my cable luber and clutch cable with no ill effect. My clutch is a two finger clutch...smooth as butter. I suppose if you used a lubricant or cleaner like brake clean that contains a solvent you could damage or swell the nylon liner and bind up the cable. I've used Tri Flow with PTFE for years without trouble.

Tech23
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:59 AM   #61744
greer
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Are you thinking of Ultralight batteries?

http://syclbatt.com/

Big thread in Vendors:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=629665

Sarah



Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt McGirt View Post
Hey thanks for the info guys.

I looked up the shorai, and I don't think that's the one I was thinking of.
(might be newer and better than the ones I was thinking of anyway)

You guys remember what the old electric Remote Control car batteries looked like?

They look like about six cells, bigger than double A, in two rows of three, side by side.....shrink wrapped.......
.......with a pigtail that has a connector on the end.

I saw some batteries that were for motorcycles, that resembled the old RC car batteries very much.

People had been running them in DRs and DRZs, but I can't remember where I saw them.

I want to say they only weighed around a pound or so. I couldn't find any weights for the Shorais, but in the pics they looked bigger. (maybe not, nothing to compare them to in the pics)
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:36 AM   #61745
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I believe all the Japanese built bikes these days come with high quality nylon lined cables. I have injected Tri Flow lubricant through my cable luber and clutch cable with no ill effect. My clutch is a two finger clutch...smooth as butter. I suppose if you used a lubricant or cleaner like brake clean that contains a solvent you could damage or swell the nylon liner and bind up the cable. I've used Tri Flow with PTFE for years without trouble.

Tech23
The plan is to use this:



and this:

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Old 03-20-2012, 05:55 AM   #61746
advchick
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bearings

So im going to replace the cush drive rubbers and bearings both just for safe keeping. I read something about the all ball bearing being not so good so i won't be using those ones!

Any suggestions on using stock or any other brand for the bearings?

Thanks Guys!
Jenna
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:26 AM   #61747
jlmoulto
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Lowering DR650

So, I am picking up my DR650 this week...2004 with 2700kms on it! basically mint shape.

My question relates to the possibility of my wife riding the bike. I am fully aware of the factory lowering options but wondering about potentially using lowering links for my wife? How much more would the lowering links provide? Anyone done this and can report back on the good/bad of doing this?

btw the bike comes with the gel seat (yeah I know that it is not he best but is lower!). Could I theoretically get the bike to around 30" with the seat, factory lowering and lowering links or is that expecting too much?
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:39 AM   #61748
advchick
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I dont know if it helps but i am 5ft 2in

I just baught a 2006 with 2700 miles. Mine is the factory seat and he said its not lowered but im pretty sure there is a lowering link in there and i am fine on it. Whats your wife's height?
Jenna
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:45 AM   #61749
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlmoulto View Post
So, I am picking up my DR650 this week...2004 with 2700kms on it! basically mint shape.

My question relates to the possibility of my wife riding the bike. I am fully aware of the factory lowering options but wondering about potentially using lowering links for my wife? How much more would the lowering links provide? Anyone done this and can report back on the good/bad of doing this?

btw the bike comes with the gel seat (yeah I know that it is not he best but is lower!). Could I theoretically get the bike to around 30" with the seat, factory lowering and lowering links or is that expecting too much?
Check with ProCycle they sell the links and will be able to answer your questions.
My only suggestion would be to remember to flip the spring seat (per factory instructions) to raise the bump stop, and you may even have to add a rubber washer or two on top of the bump stop to keep the tire off the rear fender (and other components) when the suspension is compressed.

I would think you could raise the front forks (up to an inch) in the clamps as well as the internal lowering changes, so the front matches the rear. You will have to check front fender claerance if you raise the forks in the clamps.

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Old 03-20-2012, 07:27 AM   #61750
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureChick View Post
So im going to replace the cush drive rubbers and bearings both just for safe keeping. I read something about the all ball bearing being not so good so i won't be using those ones!

Any suggestions on using stock or any other brand for the bearings?

Thanks Guys!
Jenna
The cush bearing could last 50,000 miles. Your best off inspecting the bearings on every tire change. Installation methods can damage a new bearing, all thread and nuts/washers work. A press is nice too. Some put bearings in the freezer. Just don't damage the new bearings while installing them. :eek:

I use the all balls stuff, no issues. I also use Shinko tires and haven't died or had any concern of such from the products.

I've seen the so called best bearing fail in 10,000 miles or less. You can read all about bearing troubles on the various travel blogs. I put more towards the installation than perceived quality unless were talking Russian bearings. But, there is nothing wrong with ordering the most expensive bearings. Just be aware that the brand name does not mean everything these days, bearings are made world wide and re-labeled. Its the QC specs that make them better.

I did put a double sealed cush bearing on my bike, my original bearing was fine though. I was bored and felt like using my big press...After years of dirt and water the cush bearing was clean inside. I never use pressure washers or even a garden hose near my bearings. I avoid deep water crossing when I can too.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk

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Old 03-20-2012, 07:41 AM   #61751
jlmoulto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureChick View Post
I dont know if it helps but i am 5ft 2in

I just baught a 2006 with 2700 miles. Mine is the factory seat and he said its not lowered but im pretty sure there is a lowering link in there and i am fine on it. Whats your wife's height?
Jenna
About 5'6" with a 27" inseam.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #61752
TeeVee
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Mold/mildew in boots

So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:24 AM   #61753
sagedrifter
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I don't lube my cables, the housings are made to self lube. I do lube the exposed ends with white lithium grease.

Too much lube will attract dirt and gum up things. My oldest bike is about 12 years old and the cables are still good, no lube on those. Just the exposed parts see some grease.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong... :p

If it ain't broke fix it anyway, if its all rusted up, lube may help. I would just replace the cable if the sucker was draging bad.

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Old 03-20-2012, 09:34 AM   #61754
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Bugger all.
NOT what is mentioned in the manual.
Blue loctite and snug it up.
My PDF service manual lists 40 ft/lbs for the lower shock bolt..... hmm I hope I didn't damage anything...

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Old 03-20-2012, 09:43 AM   #61755
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Are you thinking of Ultralight batteries?

http://syclbatt.com/

Big thread in Vendors:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=629665

Sarah
Are you guys talking about the ballistic

http://www.amazon.com/BALLISTIC-PERF.../dp/B005KLOYYC
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