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Old 03-23-2012, 06:51 AM   #61786
kobukan
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,712
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I went out to my dr today to find a load of fork oil dripping on my wheel, tire and floor from the right fork... Guess its time to do the seals. My question is: are the seals simple to replace? I want to do the seals springs and oil, not going to do any valves. Do I have to loosen that large nut on the bottom, or is that not needed for pulling the fork apart? From what I understand, All that I have to do is open the top cap, drain the oil, pull the spring, pull the fork apart, pull old seals, install new seals, put fork back together, new springs, new oil, top cap, and ride.

Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!
As others have said, you may be able to just clean the seal out. You could try one of these, or just make your own. I bought a sheet of .016" thick plastic for about a dollar at the hardware store and cut out a similar shape. Fixed two fork seal leaks with it so far with no re-occurrence after several thousand miles. I carry it in my tool kit on the bike all the time now.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:17 AM   #61787
HiJincs
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Cumming, Jawja
Oddometer: 627
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Sweet i will check that and ADV Grifter info.

I will let you all know what it is.

B
Re: the big electrical connector under the tank!

Oh man, I had that happen to me also. It led to this:


The shame of being towed by a bimmer

When I got the bike home and finally figured out what it was, I was pissed 'cause I had everything I needed to find adn fix it on the trail.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:33 AM   #61788
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 454
What would happen if your on the freeway going 80 mph and your electrical dies out? Would it be the same as running out of gas as mine pretty much starts to shut down when i run out of gas but it drifts still and i can control the bike and pull the clutch in and either turn the RES on or drift to the outer lane.

But when electrical goes out do the wheels semi lock up due to being in gear? And that wont be good if since the power goes out instantly.

Yes I am worried that due to my blunder of stretching a cable out that it more easily might pull out again while riding.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:49 AM   #61789
Motodeficient
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJincs View Post
Re: the big electrical connector under the tank!

Oh man, I had that happen to me also. It led to this:


The shame of being towed by a bimmer

When I got the bike home and finally figured out what it was, I was pissed 'cause I had everything I needed to find adn fix it on the trail.

Does anyone have a picture of which connection we are talking about? Want to double check mine
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #61790
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by advchick View Post
hey taz which mirrors are these on your setup?
That's my bike, advchick. Plain old stock mirrors. I don't have any trouble with them, set them wide and just tuck my elbow a little to see directly behind me.

.........shu
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:46 AM   #61791
clocklaw
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Columbia, TN
Oddometer: 1,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
What would happen if your on the freeway going 80 mph and your electrical dies out? Would it be the same as running out of gas as mine pretty much starts to shut down when i run out of gas but it drifts still and i can control the bike and pull the clutch in and either turn the RES on or drift to the outer lane.
It will be like running out of fuel....it will be exactly like accidentally hitting the kill switch at speed....stops running but does not lock up.
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:57 AM   #61792
carcajou
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
My # 30 fuse on the right hand under side cover is blown and keeps blowing after i think i found an issue i replace with another 30 and try the ignition again. Pop its gone.
I don't see any open wires or pinches. No kinks against the head stop. Cant sleep going over and over in my mind what the hell did i do...ugggghhh.
I have checked everything you all have told me but will go over it again tomorrow. Thanks for all your help!!
Boulder
The place I would look now is the wiring bundle that travels from under the tank to the headlight assembly. If you have a Volt Ohm Meter you can start testing wires from start to finish. Wires in that bundle may have worn and are touching thus the fuse pop goes the weasel routine. I have found that to be the cause of a couple of machines. Might not be it but worth looking at. Sorry for your troubles. Roger
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:12 AM   #61793
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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The unplugged connectors under the seat are used for overseas bikes with different laws and lighting regulations.

I doubt this was Boulder's problem but it fits here:
I saw this connector mentioned before, so when I had my tank off I checked it. On the right side of the bike, just behind the tank mount cushion, factory routing puts the white connector in front of the harness, behind the head stay bolt. You can see the small tear in the harness tape where it was rubbing. In that location, it points straight out, into the side of the tank. On the left end of the connector, you can see how the wires are bent 90*. This is were the connector was pushing against the tank. So I unplugged it, and worked it behind the wiring harness.

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Old 03-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #61794
Rugby4life
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Upstate SC (GSP area)
Oddometer: 718
Budget Hardbags

Does anyone know of an affordable hard saddlebag option for thr DR? I just can't see spending half as much on bags as I spent for the bike ('08). I'm almost to the point of bungie-cording a pair of igloo coolers to the seat.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:43 AM   #61795
PHILinFRANCE
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 1,156
Back brake caliper

Hi
Can anyone tell me if the DR 650 and DR350 back calipers are the same ? The reason i ask is the 350 has a nice built in stone guard and as i off road the big un a lot it'd be good to have the guard
Cheers Phil
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #61796
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 454
Quote:
Originally Posted by clocklaw View Post
It will be like running out of fuel....it will be exactly like accidentally hitting the kill switch at speed....stops running but does not lock up.
Great news thanks!! Didn't want to test the theory.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #61797
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 454
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
The unplugged connectors under the seat are used for overseas bikes with different laws and lighting regulations.

I doubt this was Boulder's problem but it fits here:
I saw this connector mentioned before, so when I had my tank off I checked it. On the right side of the bike, just behind the tank mount cushion, factory routing puts the white connector in front of the harness, behind the head stay bolt. You can see the small tear in the harness tape where it was rubbing. In that location, it points straight out, into the side of the tank. On the left end of the connector, you can see how the wires are bent 90*. This is were the connector was pushing against the tank. So I unplugged it, and worked it behind the wiring harness.

Yep mine was fine but I am rerouting them like yours.

And below the tank I have a green one and a white one just under the tank. A large green connector and behind that one is a white one.
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bouldertag screwed with this post 03-23-2012 at 11:08 AM Reason: messed up tank vs seat connectors
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:14 AM   #61798
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Does anyone know of an affordable hard saddlebag option for thr DR? I just can't see spending half as much on bags as I spent for the bike ('08). I'm almost to the point of bungie-cording a pair of igloo coolers to the seat.
Saddle bags only if you can rig something up like go to a surplus store/army store and get some ammo cans for cheap.

But i did get me a great top case for cheap. Nice finish and looks great.

Take a look at it. Fits my XL helmet in it fine and whatever you want plus it locks up. And not too expensive of a loss if you crash and it breaks.

Emgo Travel Trunk 72-32440
$65.49
In Stock
Sold by: Powersport Superstore
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:24 AM   #61799
Rugby4life
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Upstate SC (GSP area)
Oddometer: 718
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Saddle bags only if you can rig something up like go to a surplus store/army store and get some ammo cans for cheap.

But i did get me a great top case for cheap. Nice finish and looks great.

Take a look at it. Fits my XL helmet in it fine and whatever you want plus it locks up. And not too expensive of a loss if you crash and it breaks.

Emgo Travel Trunk 72-32440
$65.49
In Stock
Sold by: Powersport Superstore
That's a great idea on the ammo cans, I hadn't thought of that. I think 20mm belt cans would be big and sturdy enough. Gonna make some calls right now.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:41 AM   #61800
TaZ9
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Northern Colorado
Oddometer: 268
Just like Shu!

Quote:
Originally Posted by advchick View Post
hey taz which mirrors are these on your setup?

I also use the stock mirrors on both my DR650's. Despite the complaints, they are very sturdy and almost vibration free (at least on my bikes), and when properly adjusted, I can see directly behind me. Longer stemmed mirrors tend to vibrate more and are easily damaged in a tip over.

Taz
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