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Old 04-01-2012, 05:14 PM   #62281
sagebrushocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
lex, i dunno exactly how your bike is set up, but i suspect if you were to do a full-blown performance farkle to your dr - suspension/carb/exhaust/wheels-tires/big bore engine-heads-cams - the performance gap would become wanishingly small, and you would still have a reasonable inwestment, and better reliability...

doug s.
I'm a big fan of the DR for its simplicity, reliability, and huge installed user base. But let's do some arithmetic:

Big bore 790cc kit with cylinder exchange: $860
Big valve head (exchange): $1200
Cam: $430
TM40 pumper carb: $450, maybe $350 if you sell your OEM carb

Front/rear suspension upgrade: maybe $500-$600 net if you sell off the OEM stuff, but still probably not as good as the OEM Euro bikes.

So now you've spent around $3500 above the cost of the DR (or ~$9500 total from a new DR @ MSRP), and you've spent quite a bit of your own free time in the garage, but you are still 5-10hp short, and around 40-50 pounds heavier, than the stock KTM 690 (MSRP maybe $10,500 or so?).

Would a 790cc 50+hp DR650 be more reliable than a KTM 690? Maybe. But to take advantage of the cam and big valves in the mega-DR you are going to have to run higher rpms, and that isn't going to do anything good for engine longevity. The center of that big piston is going to get mighty hot at high power output, and it's running on an iron liner instead of Nikasil.

If I wanted a 60+hp thumper with well-sorted suspension I would just buy a KTM or Husky and put up with the extra complication of liquid cooling, fuel injection (at least on the later models), ride-by-wire, etc. I suspect that I would take less of depreciation hit on the Euro bikes than on the over-the-top DR, if that matters.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:22 PM   #62282
zdiver1
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If you go to PC website ck this out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!
I just put the PC case saver chain guard on very easy to install only thing needed was blue loctite.

replaces your plastic sprocket cover and protects your engine case from a chain derailment or failure. The 3/16" (5mm) thick steel plate is adjustable to accommodate 14, 15 and 16 tooth sprockets. Includes mounting hardware.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:28 PM   #62283
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For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:30 PM   #62284
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post

Suzuki recommends every 4500 miles, KTM recommends 6K for oil changes.

I can do a valve check much quicker on the 690 then I can the DR because access is much easier.
FWIW, Suzi Manual says oil change every 3,500 miles, oil filter every 7,500 miles (judging by what my manual says), but its always good to do them at the same time. Even if I did have a KTM I'd do a change every 3k ish.

Dido on the valve check.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:36 PM   #62285
zdiver1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
I ran my (+)pos cable to the battery along the frame and my (-)neg ground to a screw on the forks behind the wire harness.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:46 PM   #62286
Aerocycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
I responded to you in the electrical thread too but here;s where I tapped:
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:47 PM   #62287
Aerocycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Just a thanks to those taking time to post up some pics. The info is great, but an occasional pic keeps the focus on what we'd all like to be doing. I can spare 5 minutes here or there when I can't find a few hours for a ride.
Thanks, and I couldn't agree more! Whether you've got a heavily farkled DR or a bone stocker, we're here to ride. Share photo's, I think we all love it.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:07 PM   #62288
Aerocycle
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So yesterday after my ride, I noticed a drip from the oil plug. Today I looked at it closer and though I would check how tight it was with just my hands... with little effort I broke it loose by hand. So, that's interesting. I've been riding it quite a bit since my last oil change (when I installed to mag plug). I'm sure glad it wasn't worse than a drip. I'm going to torque it up, and torque stripe it. Anyone have a torque spec for the mag plug from PC? I think it's aluminum....
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:24 PM   #62289
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
I'm a big fan of the DR for its simplicity, reliability, and huge installed user base. But let's do some arithmetic:

Big bore 790cc kit with cylinder exchange: $860
Big valve head (exchange): $1200
Cam: $430
TM40 pumper carb: $450, maybe $350 if you sell your OEM carb

Front/rear suspension upgrade: maybe $500-$600 net if you sell off the OEM stuff, but still probably not as good as the OEM Euro bikes.

So now you've spent around $3500 above the cost of the DR (or ~$9500 total from a new DR @ MSRP), and you've spent quite a bit of your own free time in the garage, but you are still 5-10hp short, and around 40-50 pounds heavier, than the stock KTM 690 (MSRP maybe $10,500 or so?).

Would a 790cc 50+hp DR650 be more reliable than a KTM 690? Maybe. But to take advantage of the cam and big valves in the mega-DR you are going to have to run higher rpms, and that isn't going to do anything good for engine longevity. The center of that big piston is going to get mighty hot at high power output, and it's running on an iron liner instead of Nikasil.

If I wanted a 60+hp thumper with well-sorted suspension I would just buy a KTM or Husky and put up with the extra complication of liquid cooling, fuel injection (at least on the later models), ride-by-wire, etc. I suspect that I would take less of depreciation hit on the Euro bikes than on the over-the-top DR, if that matters.

I have no doubt in my mind that the 690 motor is every bit as reliable as the STOCK DR's. Now the peripheral stuff, not so much. I've got 25K HARRRRD miles on my 690. Most of the time it's been motarded and banging off the rev limiter. The motor's still strong as ever. The first 13K miles weren't without issues though, 2 radiators, 2 instrument clusters, one header, and some sensor issues, not to mention took 3 re-mappings before they finally got my FI working right. In the last 12K miles the only problem I've had is a very slow coolant leak that I've been too lazy to chase down, I just add a little more coolant every 400-500 miles. Even with the radiator half empty the bike doesn't overheat.

And you're right at the end of the day even if you get the DR's HP close to what the 690's is, no way it will come close to the performance/handling with the weight disadvantage and basic overall design and components.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #62290
fbritt5
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Two Pc Chain Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!
Hi - I thought the stock chain guide on a DR is a two piece? Mine is..has two screws on the bottom that come out and the bottom drops off. I suppose it could be aftermarket? I have a 2001.

Interesting.

Frank
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:50 PM   #62291
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
And you're right at the end of the day even if you get the DR's HP close to what the 690's is, no way it will come close to the performance/handling with the weight disadvantage and basic overall design and components.
i.e.- It is what it is. You can make it better, but... you can make yourself crazy trying to make it more than it is.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:00 PM   #62292
Ride-til-sore!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
Here's a picture of Thing 1 and Thing 2; that's a Hayabusa can on #1 and the Gsxr can on #2... Mr DR himself, Uncle Jesse at Kientech, did a great job on the mid pipe/header set up, and I couldn't be happier; old school rocks, baby!
Does this make your DR sound like a Hayabusa now? That would be cool at a stop sign along side a Crotch rocket! "Sleeper DR"
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:18 PM   #62293
Krogdor
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Is it my carb?

So my DR is my first bike w/ out fuel injection. I have had this bike for about a year and I love it. It ran great up until the last couple months or so. It seems to stutter a little and on stops running sometimes at lights. I've had it die a couple times after a hard deceleration. I don't know if the bike doesn't like Portland's cold and wet or if I need to adjust my carb. New oil, plugs, and air filter in the last week. I rode 60-70 miles today and it died on me twice. Any thoughts...?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:33 PM   #62294
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
lex, i dunno exactly how your bike is set up, but i suspect if you were to do a full-blown performance farkle to your dr - suspension/carb/exhaust/wheels-tires/big bore engine-heads-cams - the performance gap would become wanishingly small, and you would still have a reasonable inwestment, and better reliability...

doug s.
Thanks, Doug, however I'm such an old dog that I no longer have much ambition to keep up with the younger pups (age and/or attitude). So long as I'm not lagging toooo far behind, I'm content. I have ProCycle's heavy shock spring, I'll put that on this week, I need the extra lift for hauling the camping gear next weekend. That and Tree's footpeg relocator plate and an HID headlight are the sum of the farkles I need to make the DR sufficient for my uses. I rode the DR some 80 miles in the Santa Cruz Mtns. this afternoon and was well satisfied with the bike.

Oh, and regarding "investing": I'm a cheap bastard, a legacy from my KLR days!

Lex
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:39 PM   #62295
dogjaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Does this make your DR sound like a Hayabusa now? That would be cool at a stop sign along side a Crotch rocket! "Sleeper DR"
Sounds deeper and more thumpy than the stocker, louder without being obnoxious, but the real difference is in performance... The Busa and Gsxr cans weigh a fraction of the buick muffler, and flow a LOT more air; you feel an immediate difference. They both look stock with the Suzuki markings. The busa's are much easier to find than the Gsxr, but weigh about a pound and a half more, 6# compared to the 17+ of the stock.
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