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Old 04-01-2012, 03:46 PM   #62281
Ride-til-sore!
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Minn-sota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Hi Guys,

Today i went for a ride with my buddie. He on his new (to him) KTM 690 SM and me on my DR 650 SE with the 2,50 x 19 and 4,25 x 17 Wheels.

Mostly on road, lots of fun. Definately would like the KTM power, but the old DR hold up very well.


With the TKC80 it performs real well on road, and also great off-road. Dit a bit of loose sand and the front still wanders a bit but still great.

As much as i really love my DR, certainly with these wheels//
Next bike though..
BMW G 650 X Challenge
KTM 690 Enduro
Husqvarna TE 650
All three i would definately reconsider puttiing these wheels on.

Or perhaps a..
KTM 690 SMC

Or just go all out with an even newer DR and go crazy with mods.
Wheels, brakes, supsension, big bore, flatslide, exhaust...........

Regards,
Thanas
Huuum, didn't seem to see your buddy and his great ride in any of the dirt pics?
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:50 PM   #62282
Slideways#96
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NM
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Two piece chain guides

Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:52 PM   #62283
Slideways#96
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chain guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!

Btw this would be for an 03 dr650...
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:57 PM   #62284
dogjaw
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Here's a picture of Thing 1 and Thing 2; that's a Hayabusa can on #1 and the Gsxr can on #2... Mr DR himself, Uncle Jesse at Kientech, did a great job on the mid pipe/header set up, and I couldn't be happier; old school rocks, baby!
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:15 PM   #62285
sagebrushocean
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
Oddometer: 179
sidestand switch bypass and relay

On my commute this past week I was zipping through traffic as usual, when I hit a small bump and my DR died instantaneously. Not a good thing when surrounded by cages. I pulled in the clutch and tried a restart, but no luck. Let out the clutch for a bump start -- dead. Luckily there was a shoulder (not true along other parts of my commute) and I pulled over.

Having read all of this threadover the past year and a half, I nudged the sidestand a little to get it all the way up, and she started right away. The spring on my sidestand doesn't hold the sidestand super tight against the switch, and I guess the bump opened the switch and cut off power to the CDI.

So today I used the PeteC procedure (post #2300 in this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=2300) to bypass the sidestand switch (and the neutral safety switch, and the sidestand relay) with a jumper. No wire cutting, either, so easily returned to stock if desired.

I'm sure that riding away with the sidestand down has its own risks, but if you look at the circuit diagram for the various safety systems (clutch, sidestand, netural switch), the sidestand and the neutral safety switch (and the sidestand relay) are all potential points of failure that can kill the ignition when you're riding (in gear). Sudden ignition cutout is definitely dangerous on my commute, so I opted for the more important (to me) safety circuit. [Yeah, I suppose I could also try a new spring for the sidestand to get it to hold against the switch better.]

Failure (open) of the clutch switch will prevent the starter from working but doesn't stop the CDI from working, so it shouldn't cause the bike to quit in traffic. I left my clutch switch connectors in place for the time being, with a little dielectric grease love.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:17 PM   #62286
Toxic Mark
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 26
Hot clutch cable

I think this might be a rare problem, so I thought I would post it just in case.

This morning before our ride my brother notice that his clutch cable was making a grating sound when he pulled in the lever. Shortly after starting the engine he noticed that there was smoke coming from the clutch cable housing and that the clutch cable was hot to the touch. This happened within minutes of turning on the motorcycle.

The culprit:
The high heat heating element on one of his grips' grip heaters was shorting to the handlebar. The easiest way for the electrons to get back to the negative terminal on the battery from the handlebar was via the clutch cable which heated it up and melted the slick lining of the clutch cable causing the grating noise when actuating the clutch lever.


The symptoms:
Noisy clutch cable
Grip heaters not heating grips
Turning on grip heaters caused headlight to dim dramatically
Hot clutch cable

I only saw one other issue of this on a quick google search via the ThumperTalk forum which dealt with a wire that had worn through its insulation. Maybe this will help someone as that post helped us.

We ended up 4 wheelin' instead.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:23 PM   #62287
John E
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Wow...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic Mark View Post
I think this might be a rare problem, so I thought I would post it just in case.

This morning before our ride my brother notice that his clutch cable was making a grating sound when he pulled in the lever. Shortly after starting the engine he noticed that there was smoke coming from the clutch cable housing and that the clutch cable was hot to the touch. This happened within minutes of turning on the motorcycle.

The culprit:
The high heat heating element on one of his grips' grip heaters was shorting to the handlebar. The easiest way for the electrons to get back to the negative terminal on the battery from the handlebar was via the clutch cable which heated it up and melted the slick lining of the clutch cable causing the grating noise when actuating the clutch lever.


The symptoms:
Noisy clutch cable
Grip heaters not heating grips
Turning on grip heaters caused headlight to dim dramatically
Hot clutch cable

I only saw one other issue of this on a quick google search via the ThumperTalk forum which dealt with a wire that had worn through its insulation. Maybe this will help someone as that post helped us.

We ended up 4 wheelin' instead.
That's just bizarre. Thanks for the notes. I'd had heated grips on a couple of my other bikes and have thought about putting some on the DR. Something to think about.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:33 PM   #62288
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 459
Lower chain guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!
I ordered the one on Procycle looks to be much tougher could take on a rock but I have not installed it yet. but looks like an easy install and is a two piece for 1996-2012.
(PC website)Much tougher than the stock plastic chain guide. Metal side plates, replaceable wear blocks. Fits stock or larger size rear sprockets

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

zdiver1 screwed with this post 04-01-2012 at 04:52 PM
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:14 PM   #62289
sagebrushocean
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
Oddometer: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
lex, i dunno exactly how your bike is set up, but i suspect if you were to do a full-blown performance farkle to your dr - suspension/carb/exhaust/wheels-tires/big bore engine-heads-cams - the performance gap would become wanishingly small, and you would still have a reasonable inwestment, and better reliability...

doug s.
I'm a big fan of the DR for its simplicity, reliability, and huge installed user base. But let's do some arithmetic:

Big bore 790cc kit with cylinder exchange: $860
Big valve head (exchange): $1200
Cam: $430
TM40 pumper carb: $450, maybe $350 if you sell your OEM carb

Front/rear suspension upgrade: maybe $500-$600 net if you sell off the OEM stuff, but still probably not as good as the OEM Euro bikes.

So now you've spent around $3500 above the cost of the DR (or ~$9500 total from a new DR @ MSRP), and you've spent quite a bit of your own free time in the garage, but you are still 5-10hp short, and around 40-50 pounds heavier, than the stock KTM 690 (MSRP maybe $10,500 or so?).

Would a 790cc 50+hp DR650 be more reliable than a KTM 690? Maybe. But to take advantage of the cam and big valves in the mega-DR you are going to have to run higher rpms, and that isn't going to do anything good for engine longevity. The center of that big piston is going to get mighty hot at high power output, and it's running on an iron liner instead of Nikasil.

If I wanted a 60+hp thumper with well-sorted suspension I would just buy a KTM or Husky and put up with the extra complication of liquid cooling, fuel injection (at least on the later models), ride-by-wire, etc. I suspect that I would take less of depreciation hit on the Euro bikes than on the over-the-top DR, if that matters.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:22 PM   #62290
zdiver1
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If you go to PC website ck this out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideways#96 View Post
Anyone have a suggestion for a two piece chain guide, one that doesn't require chain removal?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated..

Thanks!
I just put the PC case saver chain guard on very easy to install only thing needed was blue loctite.

replaces your plastic sprocket cover and protects your engine case from a chain derailment or failure. The 3/16" (5mm) thick steel plate is adjustable to accommodate 14, 15 and 16 tooth sprockets. Includes mounting hardware.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:28 PM   #62291
epix1718
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Location: Michigan/Indiana border
Oddometer: 710
For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:30 PM   #62292
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post

Suzuki recommends every 4500 miles, KTM recommends 6K for oil changes.

I can do a valve check much quicker on the 690 then I can the DR because access is much easier.
FWIW, Suzi Manual says oil change every 3,500 miles, oil filter every 7,500 miles (judging by what my manual says), but its always good to do them at the same time. Even if I did have a KTM I'd do a change every 3k ish.

Dido on the valve check.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:36 PM   #62293
zdiver1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
I ran my (+)pos cable to the battery along the frame and my (-)neg ground to a screw on the forks behind the wire harness.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:46 PM   #62294
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
For you guys that are running the Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID lights, how are you wired up for power? I tapped into the the speedometer light wires (using Vapor unit so removed stock speedo). When cranking the bike at startup the light flickers on/off until the bike is running at which time the light remains on. Beyond installing a switch to use before starting the bike, is there another place I could tap into that only run the lights when the bike is running?
I responded to you in the electrical thread too but here;s where I tapped:
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:47 PM   #62295
Aerocycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Just a thanks to those taking time to post up some pics. The info is great, but an occasional pic keeps the focus on what we'd all like to be doing. I can spare 5 minutes here or there when I can't find a few hours for a ride.
Thanks, and I couldn't agree more! Whether you've got a heavily farkled DR or a bone stocker, we're here to ride. Share photo's, I think we all love it.
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