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Old 04-06-2012, 11:22 AM   #62461
DockingPilot
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Could this be true ?
My friend who is a Suzuki dealer told me Suzuki has stopped production on DR650's and 400's now. The last of them are here and thats it. He is thinking they may be revamping it for 2013.
Speculation, misinformation or fact ?
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:48 AM   #62462
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Could this be true ?
My friend who is a Suzuki dealer told me Suzuki has stopped production on DR650's and 400's now. The last of them are here and thats it. He is thinking they may be revamping it for 2013.
Speculation, misinformation or fact ?
Does this mean stopped production for all markets or just stopped bringing them into the US like they did back in 2010? Manufacturers like to place bikes in markets with strong sales. For example, Canada still gets the DRZ 400SM the US doesn't.

If they are revamping the DR I hope they don't let the person at Suzuki responsible for the DRZ 400SM graphics have at it, because at Suzuki "revamp" means bold new graphics. You would think the tooling on the DR production line would be thoroughly worn out by now though.

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Old 04-06-2012, 11:59 AM   #62463
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
I was trying to adjust my valves last fall when I stripped the crank access cover, not a big deal since I can spin the rear tire to find the timing mark. Problem is I couldn't find the "T" stamped on the crank. All I could find is this:

Tried with two people? Comes by faaaaast. Might need a spotter if doing it by wheel.
Really, as long as you are in that long sweep of "No Lift" area of a cam. . .makes no matter for valve lash adjustments. Watch the rockers to (both in + ex.) completely come up, tad more for luck, then do it.
Now for other things to do. . . BE THERE.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:00 PM   #62464
keenerkeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Could this be true ?
My friend who is a Suzuki dealer told me Suzuki has stopped production on DR650's and 400's now. The last of them are here and thats it. He is thinking they may be revamping it for 2013.
Speculation, misinformation or fact ?
I call BS on the DR 650 ...why would they?
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:03 PM   #62465
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
I was trying to adjust my valves last fall when I stripped the crank access cover, not a big deal since I can spin the rear tire to find the timing mark. Problem is I couldn't find the "T" stamped on the crank.
edit: 205'd by DS. Here's the long version.

First remove the tank and hose off the debris that's going to fall into the open plug hole, including the spark plug recess. Then remove the rocker covers and the outside spark plug. Drop something long, soft and skinny into the plug hole (I use a straw), as vertical as possible (Push it toward the frame. You're trying to keep the straw from bending as the piston rises). Rotate the engine until the straw is at TDC.

Now wiggle the rockers, if they're loose you're at TDC on the compression stroke (where you want to be). If they're tight, you're on TDC of the exhaust stroke. Both valves are at the overlap position on the cam and both are slightly open. Do this two or three times to make sure you're on compression TDC. As a second check: if the feeler gauge is tight on all four rockers, you're probably on the wrong TDC; rotate 360* and try again.

I'm going to speculate here, so YMMV, IMO, yada yada yada. Since both valves are closed for almost one full revolution (BDC, compression, power, BDC) the straw is more than accurate enough. The exact position of the "T" doesn't matter.

If this is wrong, someone speak up and I'll edit it.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:12 PM   #62466
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarryC View Post
Here are some pics of the Wolfman setup.
The first 4 pics are of my wife's 2007 DR with the original Wolfman racks.
The rest of the pics are of my 1997 DR650 with the "Gen 2" racks
Garry,
Been a while since I've seen the Wolfman bags mounted up. Do they use any sort of over the seat type strap ... or is the entire weight taken by the side racks?

If that is the case then I would not use them in that configuration. I've already seen the threaded mounting bolt points on the DR650 either crack or strip.
Hanging a pannier with 20 to 30 lbs. of gear in it and doing rough terrain may stress the mounting points after a few 1000 miles. (or sooner)

A throw-over design takes most of the stress off the pannier frames/mounting points. I like the design and lowness of the Wolfman. I think I'd rig a big strap over the seat to take some or most of the load. I'm sure the panniers themselves are strong enough but I can guarantee you that the threaded mounting points on the DR are not. Been there, done that.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:21 PM   #62467
joefromsf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Garry,
Been a while since I've seen the Wolfman bags mounted up. Do they use any sort of over the seat type strap ... or is the entire weight taken by the side racks?

If that is the case then I would not use them in that configuration. I've already seen the threaded mounting bolt points on the DR650 either crack or strip.
Hanging a pannier with 20 to 30 lbs. of gear in it and doing rough terrain may stress the mounting points after a few 1000 miles. (or sooner)

A throw-over design takes most of the stress off the pannier frames/mounting points. I like the design and lowness of the Wolfman. I think I'd rig a big strap over the seat to take some or most of the load. I'm sure the panniers themselves are strong enough but I can guarantee you that the threaded mounting points on the DR are not. Been there, done that.
Those Wolfman bags use two 2"-wide over the seat straps to take most of the weight.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:26 PM   #62468
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Happy to see we're so friendly with each other! And, apologies to the DR crowd for hijacking the thread for this post and Albie's reply, like some others of us, Mike is currently unemployed and trying to cut costs.
Lex
No worries Lex. Anyone who wants a real world report on
KTM 690 long term performance only need read this Ride Report by Fish Fund. Pretty much sums it up. Orange Kool-Aid boys can spin it any way they want; heard it all before. Skip up to page Nine to get to bike stuff. The first 9 pages are fluff.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ight=fish+fund

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 04-06-2012 at 01:14 PM
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:38 PM   #62469
GaThumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I've had this same Craftsman lift for about 5 years. I've read a lot of reviews where people have had the pump fail...but I've used it to lift my dirtbikes, my old 700lb cruiser, and even my John Deere riding mower.

I haven't done anything to maintain it or baby it in any way, so I don't know why this one continues to work when others fail. Maybe that's the secret, use it like you stole it and it'll keep on going strong?
+1 My Craftsman lift is at least 10 years old and has been abused. I use it for dual sports and my big street bikes with no issues. I have not experienced the hydraulic pump failure that I've read about either, maybe more good ones than bad ones? Sears runs them on sale periodically, so if you're not in a hurry you can get a good deal. My lift has spent it's entire life outside, left in the weather more times than I care to admit, but usually on the front porch or in the shed. If I had a good work space I would probably consider a lift table. With a coupon you can get them for under $350 I believe and lift the bike higher and have a good work surface at the tire level. One day!
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:50 PM   #62470
isaac004
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Ricor Intimidators Question

Question for those of you familiar with the Ricor Intimidators (this discussion doesn’t really involve the Gold Valves). I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few days I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It is just enough stiction/binding for me to be paranoid, but not enough that would indicate a very large issue. I don’t seem to notice it much while riding, but I do notice that under hard braking my front fender tip will buzz the D606 knobs sometimes (especially after riding the Divide Ride with two tubes in my fender back, with the fender flopping around). Not sure if the fender has distorted/bent some, or if I am really just having bad dive, which the Ricor’s are not supposed to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:51 PM   #62471
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Good day all,
I've been running the Shinko 705 120/90-17, but thinking of running the 130/90-17. Sorry for such a noob question, but are there any drawbacks to running this size? I've had a 130/80-17 on before, and it just seemed a tad be shorter from top to bottom and a touch wider?
Thanks in advance.
Yep. . .a tad & a touch. Drawbacks? "One man's treasure is another man's trash. .etc. Some people on dirty bikes may ride like I do in a bumpy-but-hual-butting-turn. ---> on the pegs and shoving the bike down. . on the gas to keep the kick-up minimized from that rear, and the front from diving in a dip/hole . . .So, I LIKE all the help I can get from a useful 'MORE" tad of tire flat contact patch. (not a sharper edge). This is just the opposite positioning from your typical road racer dude. . . so, drawback from a "pointier" tire lay ?? NAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Been on my crashed butt enough to know where some help comes from.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:05 PM   #62472
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Could this be true ?
My friend who is a Suzuki dealer told me Suzuki has stopped production on DR650's and 400's now. The last of them are here and thats it. He is thinking they may be revamping it for 2013.
Speculation, misinformation or fact ?
Most of my inside Suzuki connections are gone now. But I would not be surprised if this is true. Had to happen at some point.

My advice? Buy another DR650 while you can.

The good news is they are all the same so even an older DR can be farkled and modded to be as good as ANY DR650! I applaud Suzuki for continuing the bike for so long. It's been a great run!

Any bets most of us here won't be in love with it's replacement?
At a guess I'd say it's going to be:
Water cooled, 450cc dual sport bike. (based on DRZ400S and current MX'er, detuned)
More dirt oriented than DR650.
Better stock suspension than DR650
Aluminum frame
Very narrow seat (not touring friendly)
Taller
and of course .... Fuel Injected
CAT Convertor? Possible.
Lighter? Yes, but it won't be light.

Basically an updated version of the DRZ400S. At a Press Launch I attended in '07 or '08 (for the Burgmann) A Japanese exec. promised a "new"
Dual sport. Would not utter a word beyond that. Then ... years go by and it never came. Then the MC market collapsed and Suzuki cut it's US imports by over half ... really only bringing in a few models ... and no DR's. This went on for two years.

Now, with things picking back up and Adventure bikes taking off (something I told them would happen 7 years ago!) they finally are ready to make a move. What will it be? Anybody's guess really.

If I could whisper in a Suzuki exec's ear this is the "new" DR I would suggest:

All new, modern, 650cc high performance motor
(this would be BIG money in R&D for Suzuki)
Lower 1st and 2nd gear, taller 5th gear ... or add 6th gear.
F.I. (no way around it with EPA regs)
Water cooled (goes with F.I.) Built in Rad guards as stock
Moto Cross quality suspension front and rear
Taller overall ... with ability to lower
Steel frame, much the same as current design
Top shelf Excel or DID wheels
Better brakes, big rotor
4 gallon stock tank, with 6 gallon option
Wide pegs
Hand Guards
IPhone 4 type Dash like new Ducati Panigale (NO digital)
Strong steel sub frame to carry luggage (like current bike)
Wide seat, yet narrow in front for standing
and lastly ... to blow KTM and Husky out of the water ... a Full SM version!

Finally ...
A full catalog of accessories from Suzuki: Big tank, Touring seat, Low seat, crash bars, Shield options, Luggage (hard and soft) Tail bags, Competition pipe.

Every other OEM making real adventure bikes are offering these catalogs for their bikes. Huge profits there.
Check out what Triumph have for the 800XC Tiger and new Explorer.

Yamaha have caught onto this with the Star Cruisers and now the Super Tenere.
What are Suzuki doing? Huge missed opportunity. I blame the Dead Wood sitting in Brea, CA at American Suzuki. Clueless.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:05 PM   #62473
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
edit: 205'd by DS. Here's the long version.

First remove the tank and hose off the debris that's going to fall into the open plug hole, including the spark plug recess. Then remove the rocker covers and the outside spark plug. Drop something long, soft and skinny into the plug hole (I use a straw), as vertical as possible (Push it toward the frame. You're trying to keep the straw from bending as the piston rises). Rotate the engine until the straw is at TDC.

Now wiggle the rockers, if they're loose you're at TDC on the compression stroke (where you want to be). If they're tight, you're on TDC of the exhaust stroke. Both valves are at the overlap position on the cam and both are slightly open. Do this two or three times to make sure you're on compression TDC. As a second check: if the feeler gauge is tight on all four rockers, you're probably on the wrong TDC; rotate 360* and try again.

I'm going to speculate here, so YMMV, IMO, yada yada yada. Since both valves are closed for almost one full revolution (BDC, compression, power, BDC) the straw is more than accurate enough. The exact position of the "T" doesn't matter.

If this is wrong, someone speak up and I'll edit it.

++1
Can't get any more right than this.
I assumed he already knew how/when his comp. stroke was happening.

You 'da man, bro.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:19 PM   #62474
Mongle
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That is a good way to do it.

Also, if you know your strokes (intake-piston down, compression-piston up, power-piston down, exhaust-piston up) you can do this:

Using ER's straw in a plug hole, watch the intake valves open, then close and the straw come all the way up. You are now on the compression stroke and can adjust valves.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:21 PM   #62475
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keenerkeen View Post
I call BS on the DR 650 ...why would they?
I agree. And they have the Wee. Not close to the same bike now, but, it could BE if they changed the DR drasticly.
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