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Old 04-06-2012, 04:26 PM   #62491
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Shim kits at ktm-parts.com cost over $80. Too much money for maybe 6-8 shims that will be used over the course of the bike’s life. I recall for my KLR650, individual shims were $7 and a kit of (16) was around $90. I bought individual shims, as needed - and traveled to the Kawasaki dealer for the shims the one time I need them.

A serious question: Mike, my friend with the KTM, would like to know where you buy shims for $1.75, at that price he plans to order a few in the common sizes to have on hand. And, at that price, what does a kit of all the shim sizes cost?

Thanks in advance for the info on where to purchase those shims.

Here's a friendly smilie, for helping out my friend:

Lex


This may be hard to believe, but tell him to check with his local Harley dealer. Buell's with the Rotax motors use the same shims. Or if he can wait 2 or 3 days here. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...im/VALVE+SHIMS

Obviously all he needs is a couple shims of a few sizes smaller then what is currently in the bike. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #62492
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Yep...liking my Wolfman Gen2s very much. Just fitted up 2 pelican 1550s with quick release mounts to use on the racks when I need more than just the soft bags.
When I read this, I was surprised that the Pelican 1550s would hold that much more. 32L vs. 19L is significant.

My Nelson Riggs 950 bags have been on 4 bikes so far. EX500, DL650, CBF1000, DR650. Bought them used from an inmate. I use those light-weight, coated nylon, roll-top dry bags designed for canoeing inside the saddle bags for water-proofing. Everything stays dry, and when you head into the tent on motel, just grab the bag and go. Wifey hates luggage on her bike, so if moteling (we don't need too much stuff), she gets one side and I get the other. When camping, she has saddlebags too. Spoiled. But it makes life easier when we keep the spousal-unit happy, right?

I sure do likje the looks of those Wolfman saddlebags and new version racks though. The Wman tankbag on my DR is super so I'm sure their other stuff is too.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:53 PM   #62493
dljocky
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Thanks. I didn't know they made a 130/90-17 until the other day. think I might try one out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Yep. . .a tad & a touch. Drawbacks? "One man's treasure is another man's trash. .etc. Some people on dirty bikes may ride like I do in a bumpy-but-hual-butting-turn. ---> on the pegs and shoving the bike down. . on the gas to keep the kick-up minimized from that rear, and the front from diving in a dip/hole . . .So, I LIKE all the help I can get from a useful 'MORE" tad of tire flat contact patch. (not a sharper edge). This is just the opposite positioning from your typical road racer dude. . . so, drawback from a "pointier" tire lay ?? NAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Been on my crashed butt enough to know where some help comes from.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:12 PM   #62494
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Question for those of you familiar with the Ricor Intimidators (this discussion doesn’t really involve the Gold Valves). I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few days I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It is just enough stiction/binding for me to be paranoid, but not enough that would indicate a very large issue. I don’t seem to notice it much while riding, but I do notice that under hard braking my front fender tip will buzz the D606 knobs sometimes (especially after riding the Divide Ride with two tubes in my fender back, with the fender flopping around). Not sure if the fender has distorted/bent some, or if I am really just having bad dive, which the Ricor’s are not supposed to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Mysterious for sure. The inventor/owner of Ricor has posted on this thread ... and other ADV threads over the last couple years. For a while he was offering a "deal" for DR riders.

I'd bet he has a thread in the Vendors forum ... why not find him and ping some questions? Also (back a couple years) are lots of posts in this thread comparing Ricor with Race Tech emulators. Lots of back and forth. No idea how to find it those posts. Maybe the Index thread would have something more specific to the DR650?

Stiction issue ... could it be a bent fork tube? I know Jack about Intiminators ... do you have to modify the damper rods when installing? With emulators you drill holes. This really works on the Race Tech product and yet you can still do lots of fine tuning using : Oil weight, Oil height, Pre Load, plus Race Tech give you 3 different springs for the emulators. I've done a couple bikes using them ... love 'em!

Good luck, I know there are a few guys here who are running Ricor's, not sure if they are still around. Lots of the core group on this thread are gone.

Good luck.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:30 PM   #62495
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
I would like to see that! Valve shims rockwell between C55- 65! It would be like trying to file a flat piece of glass!

You would wear out the file before you could get .0005" off the shim. Trust me- the $$ per shim will be cheap when you try that trick.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:53 PM   #62496
Jon_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I am going to lower the rear shock to the second hole and the forks about 3/4-1". Where is the best places to support the bike from when doing each? Where does the pressure need to be taken off? Any little tricks when doing each. Do the forks slide pretty easy up when loosened or do you have to hammer them at all? Will a little WD-40 on the forks help? Also do you really need to flip the rear shock spacer at the top? What would happen if you just dropped the bolt one hole and called it good? Thanks.
I supported mine on the frame under the motor to take the weight off the rear tire. You will find if you lift the tire a little when trying to remove the bolt from the shock it will make it easier to get the bolt out.

Once you loosen the fork clamps a slight twist will make it easy to slide them up/down to adjust the height. Most people do one fork at a time and only loosen the clamps enough to slide them. It's also easier to raise the forks when there is some weight on the front end. So doing one fork at a time will avoid having the front of the bike drop on you (hope that made sense).

I've always flipped the spring perch at the bottom (not the top) of the shock as suggested in the manual. I slid my forks up but will be doing the factory lowering on the forks now that I know I will be keeping it lowered. I just did not feel like taking the forks apart until I knew I liked it lower.

But if you are just wanting to lower the bike to see if you will like it then you could just move the bolt to the other hole on the rear shock and slide the forks up as a test. Then if you like it, do it the right way and do the full factory lowering.

Jon...
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:05 PM   #62497
eakins
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as others have said yes the WM has 2 over straps to also carry the weight,
plus the new gen 2 racks use 3 mount points (gen 1 use only 2) to further spread the weight load across the bike. you can also purchase a rear cross bar to further strengthen the racks and use pelican hard cases w/ WM attachment quick-release kit. this give you the ability to move from soft to hard bags depending on your needs, say off-road soft bag touring & then to paved touring/commuting w/ secure hard bags. they truly have the best system on the market for varied touring needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Garry,
Been a while since I've seen the Wolfman bags mounted up. Do they use any sort of over the seat type strap ... or is the entire weight taken by the side racks?

If that is the case then I would not use them in that configuration. I've already seen the threaded mounting bolt points on the DR650 either crack or strip.
Hanging a pannier with 20 to 30 lbs. of gear in it and doing rough terrain may stress the mounting points after a few 1000 miles. (or sooner)

A throw-over design takes most of the stress off the pannier frames/mounting points. I like the design and lowness of the Wolfman. I think I'd rig a big strap over the seat to take some or most of the load. I'm sure the panniers themselves are strong enough but I can guarantee you that the threaded mounting points on the DR are not. Been there, done that.
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:12 PM   #62498
isaac004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Mysterious for sure. The inventor/owner of Ricor has posted on this thread ... and other ADV threads over the last couple years. For a while he was offering a "deal" for DR riders.

I'd bet he has a thread in the Vendors forum ... why not find him and ping some questions? Also (back a couple years) are lots of posts in this thread comparing Ricor with Race Tech emulators. Lots of back and forth. No idea how to find it those posts. Maybe the Index thread would have something more specific to the DR650?

Stiction issue ... could it be a bent fork tube? I know Jack about Intiminators ... do you have to modify the damper rods when installing? With emulators you drill holes. This really works on the Race Tech product and yet you can still do lots of fine tuning using : Oil weight, Oil height, Pre Load, plus Race Tech give you 3 different springs for the emulators. I've done a couple bikes using them ... love 'em!

Good luck, I know there are a few guys here who are running Ricor's, not sure if they are still around. Lots of the core group on this thread are gone.

Good luck.
Thanks, I'll check the Vendors forum.

These Ricor's just drop in, no modifications needed. For my rebuild (they were originally installed by the previous owner) I used Ricor's recommendations on oil weight and height.

One of my fears is a bent stanchion....hard to measure that though.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:07 PM   #62499
speedmaster
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I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #62500
zdiver1
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NSU screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
After seeing some of the problems some have removing the clutch I will do it like you did mine is a 2011 with 2022 mi I am doing it next oil change!
your upper chain roller hole you did not use loctite? silicone?
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:34 PM   #62501
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Question for those of you familiar with the Ricor Intimidators (this discussion doesn’t really involve the Gold Valves). I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few days I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It is just enough stiction/binding for me to be paranoid, but not enough that would indicate a very large issue. I don’t seem to notice it much while riding, but I do notice that under hard braking my front fender tip will buzz the D606 knobs sometimes (especially after riding the Divide Ride with two tubes in my fender back, with the fender flopping around). Not sure if the fender has distorted/bent some, or if I am really just having bad dive, which the Ricor’s are not supposed to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
The Ricor Intiminators have a piston ring like seal that seals the perimeter of the valve against the inside diameter of the fork tube. You have to be careful when installing them that you don't pinch, invert, or misposition this seal. I would imagine that could be a possible scenario if you are experiencing excessive binding/stiction.

From what I have read and my experience with the Ricor Intiminators in my bike...the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators are better suited for off road use. I have never ridden a bike with emulators before, but the Intiminators become very harsh when braking hard with the front brake over choppy terrain. This is were the inertia valve that is such a benefit fighting brake dive on the street works against you off road. Yes I'm using the recommended 5 W fork oil.

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Old 04-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #62502
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I am going to lower the rear shock to the second hole and the forks about 3/4-1". Where is the best places to support the bike from when doing each? Where does the pressure need to be taken off? Any little tricks when doing each. Do the forks slide pretty easy up when lossened or do you have to hammer them at all? Will a little WD-40 on the forks help? Also do you really need to flip the rear shock spacer at the top? What would happen if you just droped the bolt one hole and called it good? Thanks.
If you ride in the lower 3/4 of the performance envelope the simple lowering will work for you, but, if you don't flip the rear spacer and move the front spacer as instructed in the shop manual, you will have more suspension travel than clearance to the fenders. Works ok until you hit the big bump, get some air, or get really hard on the brakes, then it gets messy. Do it right the peace of mind is worth the trouble.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:41 PM   #62503
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
I was trying to adjust my valves last fall when I stripped the crank access cover, not a big deal since I can spin the rear tire to find the timing mark.

You can get that access cover off by getting the bike good and hot and then driving the cover with a hammer and chisel.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:42 PM   #62504
Ride-til-sore!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
I supported mine on the frame under the motor to take the weight off the rear tire. You will find if you lift the tire a little when trying to remove the bolt from the shock it will make it easier to get the bolt out.

Once you loosen the fork clamps a slight twist will make it easy to slide them up/down to adjust the height. Most people do one fork at a time and only loosen the clamps enough to slide them. It's also easier to raise the forks when there is some weight on the front end. So doing one fork at a time will avoid having the front of the bike drop on you (hope that made sense).

I've always flipped the spring perch at the bottom (not the top) of the shock as suggested in the manual. I slid my forks up but will be doing the factory lowering on the forks now that I know I will be keeping it lowered. I just did not feel like taking the forks apart until I knew I liked it lower.

But if you are just wanting to lower the bike to see if you will like it then you could just move the bolt to the other hole on the rear shock and slide the forks up as a test. Then if you like it, do it the right way and do the full factory lowering.

Jon...
Thanks Jon all done. The forks were a little bit of a stuggle until I realized that I needed to loosen the fork dust cover band at the top as well as the clamps. I was bring the thing up and down pushing with all I could and just could not see why they would no slide up. I loosened the little dust cover bands and they slide right up! I cut 3/4" of an inch out of the kick stand and will be having my buddy weld it back together tomorrow. I didn't flip the spring perch as of yet but I will try and find out why that is important because all I have read just says to do it but nothing on why it's needed? I know I read a few posts where guys said they didn't do it and didn't have any problems? Thanks again for the help!
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:43 PM   #62505
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
After seeing some of the problems some have removing the clutch I will do it like you did mine is a 2011 with 2022 mi I am doing it next oil change!
your upper chain roller hole you did not use loctite? silicone?

I did mine without removing the clutch. I used allen bolts and safety wire too. Just takes a little patience and some finesse. An allen wrench with the sort side ground down will make the job easier.

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