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Old 04-06-2012, 01:19 PM   #62491
Mongle
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That is a good way to do it.

Also, if you know your strokes (intake-piston down, compression-piston up, power-piston down, exhaust-piston up) you can do this:

Using ER's straw in a plug hole, watch the intake valves open, then close and the straw come all the way up. You are now on the compression stroke and can adjust valves.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #62492
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keenerkeen View Post
I call BS on the DR 650 ...why would they?
I agree. And they have the Wee. Not close to the same bike now, but, it could BE if they changed the DR drasticly.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:23 PM   #62493
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
I just buy a shim kit from HotCams so I have shims on hand. My closest dealer is over an hour away, so 2 hours travel time plus gas. $80 is a bargain, especially when you use the shim you calculated should be the right one, but it's a little too close to being outside spec, so you look in your shim kit and hey, there's the one I really need right there. Doing your own maintenance and NOT being close to civilization makes things like a shim kit pretty valuable to have around. $80 for 140+ shims seems like a good deal.

Shim Kits

Still have one for our sons KTM that was the wrong size for my CBF so I have both sizes of shims now.
When I was doing my GSXR600 track bike I found what shims were in the head then what I needed then just bought bags of shims around the size I was working. With 16 valves the kit always seemed to not have enough of the ONE size I needed. Even pulling the head apart every year and doing seats I always seemed to have the right ones.
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:26 PM   #62494
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Those Wolfman bags use two 2"-wide over the seat straps to take most of the weight.
Thanks Joe, I'd forgotten, been forever since I've seen them in person. Makes a big difference over long haul if you carry a load off road.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:02 PM   #62495
Ride-til-sore!
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Supporting bike when lowering?

I am going to lower the rear shock to the second hole and the forks about 3/4-1". Where is the best places to support the bike from when doing each? Where does the pressure need to be taken off? Any little tricks when doing each. Do the forks slide pretty easy up when lossened or do you have to hammer them at all? Will a little WD-40 on the forks help? Also do you really need to flip the rear shock spacer at the top? What would happen if you just droped the bolt one hole and called it good? Thanks.

Ride-til-sore! screwed with this post 04-06-2012 at 03:51 PM
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:13 PM   #62496
GarryC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Garry,
Been a while since I've seen the Wolfman bags mounted up. Do they use any sort of over the seat type strap ... or is the entire weight taken by the side racks?

If that is the case then I would not use them in that configuration. I've already seen the threaded mounting bolt points on the DR650 either crack or strip.
Hanging a pannier with 20 to 30 lbs. of gear in it and doing rough terrain may stress the mounting points after a few 1000 miles. (or sooner)

A throw-over design takes most of the stress off the pannier frames/mounting points. I like the design and lowness of the Wolfman. I think I'd rig a big strap over the seat to take some or most of the load. I'm sure the panniers themselves are strong enough but I can guarantee you that the threaded mounting points on the DR are not. Been there, done that.
As Joefromsf posted, the Wolfman bags have two straps over the seat and are adjustable to take the weight off the mounting points. The straps at the rack mounting points allow you to pull the bags up tight to the racks for a very secure fit.
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GarryC screwed with this post 04-06-2012 at 03:16 PM Reason: sp
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:33 PM   #62497
TaZ9
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Still selling 'em here in colorado

Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Could this be true ?
My friend who is a Suzuki dealer told me Suzuki has stopped production on DR650's and 400's now. The last of them are here and thats it. He is thinking they may be revamping it for 2013.
Speculation, misinformation or fact ?
There's a 2012 DR650 sitting on the showroom floor here in Northern CO, and they have another one arriving in a few weeks. The sales manager says they (Suzuki) "might be" limiting production, but no word that production will end.

My guess is that unless Suzuki comes up with a viable replacement, the DR650 will survive.

Ride 'em if you got 'em!

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Old 04-06-2012, 03:46 PM   #62498
Flashback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarryC View Post
As Joefromsf posted, the Wolfman bags have two straps over the seat and are adjustable to take the weight off the mounting points. The straps at the rack mounting points allow you to pull the bags up tight to the racks for a very secure fit.
Yep...liking my Wolfman Gen2s very much. Just fitted up 2 pelican 1550s with quick release mounts to use on the racks when I need more than just the soft bags.

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Old 04-06-2012, 04:26 PM   #62499
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Shim kits at ktm-parts.com cost over $80. Too much money for maybe 6-8 shims that will be used over the course of the bike’s life. I recall for my KLR650, individual shims were $7 and a kit of (16) was around $90. I bought individual shims, as needed - and traveled to the Kawasaki dealer for the shims the one time I need them.

A serious question: Mike, my friend with the KTM, would like to know where you buy shims for $1.75, at that price he plans to order a few in the common sizes to have on hand. And, at that price, what does a kit of all the shim sizes cost?

Thanks in advance for the info on where to purchase those shims.

Here's a friendly smilie, for helping out my friend:

Lex


This may be hard to believe, but tell him to check with his local Harley dealer. Buell's with the Rotax motors use the same shims. Or if he can wait 2 or 3 days here. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...im/VALVE+SHIMS

Obviously all he needs is a couple shims of a few sizes smaller then what is currently in the bike. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #62500
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Yep...liking my Wolfman Gen2s very much. Just fitted up 2 pelican 1550s with quick release mounts to use on the racks when I need more than just the soft bags.
When I read this, I was surprised that the Pelican 1550s would hold that much more. 32L vs. 19L is significant.

My Nelson Riggs 950 bags have been on 4 bikes so far. EX500, DL650, CBF1000, DR650. Bought them used from an inmate. I use those light-weight, coated nylon, roll-top dry bags designed for canoeing inside the saddle bags for water-proofing. Everything stays dry, and when you head into the tent on motel, just grab the bag and go. Wifey hates luggage on her bike, so if moteling (we don't need too much stuff), she gets one side and I get the other. When camping, she has saddlebags too. Spoiled. But it makes life easier when we keep the spousal-unit happy, right?

I sure do likje the looks of those Wolfman saddlebags and new version racks though. The Wman tankbag on my DR is super so I'm sure their other stuff is too.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:53 PM   #62501
dljocky
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Thanks. I didn't know they made a 130/90-17 until the other day. think I might try one out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Yep. . .a tad & a touch. Drawbacks? "One man's treasure is another man's trash. .etc. Some people on dirty bikes may ride like I do in a bumpy-but-hual-butting-turn. ---> on the pegs and shoving the bike down. . on the gas to keep the kick-up minimized from that rear, and the front from diving in a dip/hole . . .So, I LIKE all the help I can get from a useful 'MORE" tad of tire flat contact patch. (not a sharper edge). This is just the opposite positioning from your typical road racer dude. . . so, drawback from a "pointier" tire lay ?? NAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Been on my crashed butt enough to know where some help comes from.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:12 PM   #62502
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Question for those of you familiar with the Ricor Intimidators (this discussion doesn’t really involve the Gold Valves). I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few days I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It is just enough stiction/binding for me to be paranoid, but not enough that would indicate a very large issue. I don’t seem to notice it much while riding, but I do notice that under hard braking my front fender tip will buzz the D606 knobs sometimes (especially after riding the Divide Ride with two tubes in my fender back, with the fender flopping around). Not sure if the fender has distorted/bent some, or if I am really just having bad dive, which the Ricor’s are not supposed to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Mysterious for sure. The inventor/owner of Ricor has posted on this thread ... and other ADV threads over the last couple years. For a while he was offering a "deal" for DR riders.

I'd bet he has a thread in the Vendors forum ... why not find him and ping some questions? Also (back a couple years) are lots of posts in this thread comparing Ricor with Race Tech emulators. Lots of back and forth. No idea how to find it those posts. Maybe the Index thread would have something more specific to the DR650?

Stiction issue ... could it be a bent fork tube? I know Jack about Intiminators ... do you have to modify the damper rods when installing? With emulators you drill holes. This really works on the Race Tech product and yet you can still do lots of fine tuning using : Oil weight, Oil height, Pre Load, plus Race Tech give you 3 different springs for the emulators. I've done a couple bikes using them ... love 'em!

Good luck, I know there are a few guys here who are running Ricor's, not sure if they are still around. Lots of the core group on this thread are gone.

Good luck.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:30 PM   #62503
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
I would like to see that! Valve shims rockwell between C55- 65! It would be like trying to file a flat piece of glass!

You would wear out the file before you could get .0005" off the shim. Trust me- the $$ per shim will be cheap when you try that trick.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:53 PM   #62504
Jon_PDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I am going to lower the rear shock to the second hole and the forks about 3/4-1". Where is the best places to support the bike from when doing each? Where does the pressure need to be taken off? Any little tricks when doing each. Do the forks slide pretty easy up when loosened or do you have to hammer them at all? Will a little WD-40 on the forks help? Also do you really need to flip the rear shock spacer at the top? What would happen if you just dropped the bolt one hole and called it good? Thanks.
I supported mine on the frame under the motor to take the weight off the rear tire. You will find if you lift the tire a little when trying to remove the bolt from the shock it will make it easier to get the bolt out.

Once you loosen the fork clamps a slight twist will make it easy to slide them up/down to adjust the height. Most people do one fork at a time and only loosen the clamps enough to slide them. It's also easier to raise the forks when there is some weight on the front end. So doing one fork at a time will avoid having the front of the bike drop on you (hope that made sense).

I've always flipped the spring perch at the bottom (not the top) of the shock as suggested in the manual. I slid my forks up but will be doing the factory lowering on the forks now that I know I will be keeping it lowered. I just did not feel like taking the forks apart until I knew I liked it lower.

But if you are just wanting to lower the bike to see if you will like it then you could just move the bolt to the other hole on the rear shock and slide the forks up as a test. Then if you like it, do it the right way and do the full factory lowering.

Jon...
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:05 PM   #62505
eakins
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as others have said yes the WM has 2 over straps to also carry the weight,
plus the new gen 2 racks use 3 mount points (gen 1 use only 2) to further spread the weight load across the bike. you can also purchase a rear cross bar to further strengthen the racks and use pelican hard cases w/ WM attachment quick-release kit. this give you the ability to move from soft to hard bags depending on your needs, say off-road soft bag touring & then to paved touring/commuting w/ secure hard bags. they truly have the best system on the market for varied touring needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Garry,
Been a while since I've seen the Wolfman bags mounted up. Do they use any sort of over the seat type strap ... or is the entire weight taken by the side racks?

If that is the case then I would not use them in that configuration. I've already seen the threaded mounting bolt points on the DR650 either crack or strip.
Hanging a pannier with 20 to 30 lbs. of gear in it and doing rough terrain may stress the mounting points after a few 1000 miles. (or sooner)

A throw-over design takes most of the stress off the pannier frames/mounting points. I like the design and lowness of the Wolfman. I think I'd rig a big strap over the seat to take some or most of the load. I'm sure the panniers themselves are strong enough but I can guarantee you that the threaded mounting points on the DR are not. Been there, done that.
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