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Old 04-06-2012, 06:12 PM   #62506
isaac004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Mysterious for sure. The inventor/owner of Ricor has posted on this thread ... and other ADV threads over the last couple years. For a while he was offering a "deal" for DR riders.

I'd bet he has a thread in the Vendors forum ... why not find him and ping some questions? Also (back a couple years) are lots of posts in this thread comparing Ricor with Race Tech emulators. Lots of back and forth. No idea how to find it those posts. Maybe the Index thread would have something more specific to the DR650?

Stiction issue ... could it be a bent fork tube? I know Jack about Intiminators ... do you have to modify the damper rods when installing? With emulators you drill holes. This really works on the Race Tech product and yet you can still do lots of fine tuning using : Oil weight, Oil height, Pre Load, plus Race Tech give you 3 different springs for the emulators. I've done a couple bikes using them ... love 'em!

Good luck, I know there are a few guys here who are running Ricor's, not sure if they are still around. Lots of the core group on this thread are gone.

Good luck.
Thanks, I'll check the Vendors forum.

These Ricor's just drop in, no modifications needed. For my rebuild (they were originally installed by the previous owner) I used Ricor's recommendations on oil weight and height.

One of my fears is a bent stanchion....hard to measure that though.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:07 PM   #62507
speedmaster
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I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #62508
zdiver1
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NSU screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
After seeing some of the problems some have removing the clutch I will do it like you did mine is a 2011 with 2022 mi I am doing it next oil change!
your upper chain roller hole you did not use loctite? silicone?
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:34 PM   #62509
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac004 View Post
Question for those of you familiar with the Ricor Intimidators (this discussion doesn’t really involve the Gold Valves). I have a 2006 DR650 with the Intimidators up front and the Cogent rear shock, with around 12k miles. Back around 6-7k miles when I was on the middle of the Great Divide Ride, I noticed that my forks did not seem as smooth and plush in their sliding action. A few months ago I serviced the fork with new seals and 5wt Maxima fork oil (as recommended by Ricor) thinking it might help. No luck. Over the last few days I have been playing around A LOT with fork alignment, attempting to get the forks at the same height in the triple clamps, keeping the triple bolt clams just snug for the fitup. I snugged the axle bolt down while trying all sorts of combinations of keeping the spacer, speed gear, and brake caliper off the bike so the right leg can properly align to be parallel with the left leg. No luck.

Basically, what I am feeling is a binding/stiction sensation as I compress the fork legs slowly. If I push down hard and fast, it seems to rebound like it is supposed to, at least on the initial quick motion up. But if I push down slowly, I have to pull up on the bars a little to get the bike to rise back up to the normal ride height. It is just enough stiction/binding for me to be paranoid, but not enough that would indicate a very large issue. I don’t seem to notice it much while riding, but I do notice that under hard braking my front fender tip will buzz the D606 knobs sometimes (especially after riding the Divide Ride with two tubes in my fender back, with the fender flopping around). Not sure if the fender has distorted/bent some, or if I am really just having bad dive, which the Ricor’s are not supposed to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
The Ricor Intiminators have a piston ring like seal that seals the perimeter of the valve against the inside diameter of the fork tube. You have to be careful when installing them that you don't pinch, invert, or misposition this seal. I would imagine that could be a possible scenario if you are experiencing excessive binding/stiction.

From what I have read and my experience with the Ricor Intiminators in my bike...the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators are better suited for off road use. I have never ridden a bike with emulators before, but the Intiminators become very harsh when braking hard with the front brake over choppy terrain. This is were the inertia valve that is such a benefit fighting brake dive on the street works against you off road. Yes I'm using the recommended 5 W fork oil.

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Old 04-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #62510
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I am going to lower the rear shock to the second hole and the forks about 3/4-1". Where is the best places to support the bike from when doing each? Where does the pressure need to be taken off? Any little tricks when doing each. Do the forks slide pretty easy up when lossened or do you have to hammer them at all? Will a little WD-40 on the forks help? Also do you really need to flip the rear shock spacer at the top? What would happen if you just droped the bolt one hole and called it good? Thanks.
If you ride in the lower 3/4 of the performance envelope the simple lowering will work for you, but, if you don't flip the rear spacer and move the front spacer as instructed in the shop manual, you will have more suspension travel than clearance to the fenders. Works ok until you hit the big bump, get some air, or get really hard on the brakes, then it gets messy. Do it right the peace of mind is worth the trouble.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:41 PM   #62511
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercenario27 View Post
I was trying to adjust my valves last fall when I stripped the crank access cover, not a big deal since I can spin the rear tire to find the timing mark.

You can get that access cover off by getting the bike good and hot and then driving the cover with a hammer and chisel.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:42 PM   #62512
Ride-til-sore!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
I supported mine on the frame under the motor to take the weight off the rear tire. You will find if you lift the tire a little when trying to remove the bolt from the shock it will make it easier to get the bolt out.

Once you loosen the fork clamps a slight twist will make it easy to slide them up/down to adjust the height. Most people do one fork at a time and only loosen the clamps enough to slide them. It's also easier to raise the forks when there is some weight on the front end. So doing one fork at a time will avoid having the front of the bike drop on you (hope that made sense).

I've always flipped the spring perch at the bottom (not the top) of the shock as suggested in the manual. I slid my forks up but will be doing the factory lowering on the forks now that I know I will be keeping it lowered. I just did not feel like taking the forks apart until I knew I liked it lower.

But if you are just wanting to lower the bike to see if you will like it then you could just move the bolt to the other hole on the rear shock and slide the forks up as a test. Then if you like it, do it the right way and do the full factory lowering.

Jon...
Thanks Jon all done. The forks were a little bit of a stuggle until I realized that I needed to loosen the fork dust cover band at the top as well as the clamps. I was bring the thing up and down pushing with all I could and just could not see why they would no slide up. I loosened the little dust cover bands and they slide right up! I cut 3/4" of an inch out of the kick stand and will be having my buddy weld it back together tomorrow. I didn't flip the spring perch as of yet but I will try and find out why that is important because all I have read just says to do it but nothing on why it's needed? I know I read a few posts where guys said they didn't do it and didn't have any problems? Thanks again for the help!
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:43 PM   #62513
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
After seeing some of the problems some have removing the clutch I will do it like you did mine is a 2011 with 2022 mi I am doing it next oil change!
your upper chain roller hole you did not use loctite? silicone?

I did mine without removing the clutch. I used allen bolts and safety wire too. Just takes a little patience and some finesse. An allen wrench with the sort side ground down will make the job easier.

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Old 04-06-2012, 07:52 PM   #62514
speedmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
After seeing some of the problems some have removing the clutch I will do it like you did mine is a 2011 with 2022 mi I am doing it next oil change!
your upper chain roller hole you did not use loctite? silicone?
I used the blue Loctite.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:12 PM   #62515
sagebrushocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
I've checked mine twice -- at ~4000 miles when I bought it (PO had never checked), and again at 7000 miles. Spot on both times on all 4 valves. I wouldn't worry even if I only checked them every 15,000 miles from here on out, but it's so quick and easy that I'll probably keep checking them at the recommended interval.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:13 PM   #62516
zdiver1
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Thumb Thats how I am going to do it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I did mine without removing the clutch. I used allen bolts and safety wire too. Just takes a little patience and some finesse. An allen wrench with the sort side ground down will make the job easier.

Tech23
I already have the allen bolts and the proto driver tool.
I dont wont to get it apart and have to put all the parts in a box and take it to a shop and say fix it! I have a gold master card!
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:21 PM   #62517
zdiver1
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Thumb Upper roller hole!

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I used the blue Loctite.
Most Brother DR Riders here use RTV silicone in the hole to keep the crap out of the frame and bunging up the threads just in case Procycle comes out with a upper roller hole solar panel add on that gets 75 mpg.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #62518
fbritt5
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Hole

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Most Brother DR Riders here use RTV silicone in the hole to keep the crap out of the frame and bunging up the threads just in case Procycle comes out with a upper roller hole solar panel add on that gets 75 mpg.
Pencil eraser.

Just change it now and then... Mines been in for about 4 years. I better change it soon.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:08 PM   #62519
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No worries Lex. Anyone who wants a real world report on
KTM 690 long term performance only need read this Ride Report by Fish Fund. Pretty much sums it up. Orange Kool-Aid boys can spin it any way they want; heard it all before. Skip up to page Nine to get to bike stuff. The first 9 pages are fluff.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ight=fish+fund
I snikker every time I see you post that link. It's even funnier since I read the link. My buddy is a KTM fanatic. Yep, they're faster and yep they're rumored to be lighter (the current 690 is 142 kg (313 lb.) DRY. Oh, wait, that's only 20 pounds lighter than my DR . But I ride solo and dependability it my first concern. I love my DR650 with 30,390 miles and NO failures (well, ok........I've had an occassional flat tire ).

The KTM 500 EXC is $9899. Seems they don't want me to know how much the 690's are.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:08 PM   #62520
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+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
if you ride in the lower 3/4 of the performance envelope the simple lowering will work for you, but, if you don't flip the rear spacer and move the front spacer as instructed in the shop manual, you will have more suspension travel than clearance to the fenders. Works ok until you hit the big bump, get some air, or get really hard on the brakes, then it gets messy. Do it right the peace of mind is worth the trouble.
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