ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-07-2012, 08:19 AM   #62506
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 2,167
Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
help...I am looking for a post on this site where the "man" built a tach and speedometer (vapor) and brought it up and forward under the windshield...it was a instrument box that was up like a Dakar just below the windshield. Damned if i can find it again...anyone help a guy form Idaho out here?
Curious - was Jay's bike the one you were looking for or is it another? I'm interested too as I'll be doing a small dash project - not as extensive as Jay's.

Regarding luggage. A few weeks ago there was a discussion about Seahorse waterproof cases used as panniers. http://www.seahorsecases.com/ You'll need racks they'll bolt up to but the price was fair.

Edit: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=60928 Here it is
__________________
2005 DR650 '07 WR450
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...

TrophyHunter screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 08:26 AM
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 08:57 AM   #62507
Rumlover
Ed
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Thanks Jon all done. The forks were a little bit of a stuggle until I realized that I needed to loosen the fork dust cover band at the top as well as the clamps. I was bring the thing up and down pushing with all I could and just could not see why they would no slide up. I loosened the little dust cover bands and they slide right up! I cut 3/4" of an inch out of the kick stand and will be having my buddy weld it back together tomorrow. I didn't flip the spring perch as of yet but I will try and find out why that is important because all I have read just says to do it but nothing on why it's needed? I know I read a few posts where guys said they didn't do it and didn't have any problems? Thanks again for the help!
The way it works is that by flipping the spring perch\seat it raises the bump stop (shock cushion) on the shock shaft and makes the shock travel less. So basically the suspension travel is limited at the "shock". Otherwise, as others have stated, you may hit the fender or other components when the suspension is fully compressed. Page 5-53 of the manual has a good picture of how flipping the seat limits travel of the shock.

When you flip the spring perch\seat it will also actually preload (compress) the spring more then before you flipped it because the space between the spring seat and the two adjusting rings on top of the spring becomes shorter. That is why the manual also has you reset those adjusting rings on top of the spring, so you can return the spring preload to the same as before you flipped the spring seat. This can all be done on the bike even though the manual shows you removing the spring\shock.

A little trick for adjusting the preload on the spring is to first loosen the top locking ring and unscrew it out of the way, but leave the lower adjusting ring in contact with the top of the spring. Then just grasp the spring with your hand and rotate it. Both the spring and adjusting ring will move together. Once at desired preload retighten the top locking ring. Clean the treads first if needed.

IIRC the front forks can be slid up in the clamps about 3\4" with out fender interferance problems, but you may want to do your own measurements to verify this.

Good luck!

Rumlover screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 11:53 AM
Rumlover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:00 AM   #62508
cemory
Adventurer
 
cemory's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I thought I had read someone say just to take the top chain roller off as it's not really needed and can cause more damage then it's worth? I wonder if they were talking about just pulling the wheel off the peg or cutting the peg off the frame as well before in can make a hole?

Just unscrew the original roller/post and install a set screw with blue loctite. No cutting needed. Very simple and highly recommened to avoid the big hole in frame later. I know some will argue that a properly adjusted chain will not rip out the post, BUT, I seem to have read several posts where the chain was properly adjusted and the post was still ripped off. Your choice.

Chris in Topeka
cemory is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:09 AM   #62509
Rumlover
Ed
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
Just unscrew the original roller/post and install a set screw with blue loctite. No cutting needed. Very simple and highly recommened to avoid the big hole in frame later. I know some will argue that a properly adjusted chain will not rip out the post, BUT, I seem to have read several posts where the chain was properly adjusted and the post was still ripped off. Your choice.

Chris in Topeka
+1,
Or just fill the treaded hole with silicone or RTV and forget it. You want to prevent water from getting into the frame once the roller and bolt is removed..
Rumlover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:15 AM   #62510
sagebrushocean
Harris's hawker
 
sagebrushocean's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
Oddometer: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
My buddy is a KTM fanatic. Yep, they're faster and yep they're rumored to be lighter (the current 690 is 142 kg (313 lb.) DRY. Oh, wait, that's only 20 pounds lighter than my DR .
The numbers I've seen for the KTM 690 Enduro R are 331 pounds full of fuel, 65hp, 49ft-lb. For the DR650, 366 pounds, 37hp, 34ft-lb. So the weight difference is closer to 35 pounds than 20 pounds, and the power difference is night and day.

Quote:
But I ride solo and dependability it my first concern.
For me it's low maintenance and simplicity. But I can easily see how riders wanting a lot more power are going to go KTM, Husky, or Husaberg. High-compression liquid-cooled engines are what's required for that.

Quote:
The KTM 500 EXC is $9899. Seems they don't want me to know how much the 690's are.
$10.2K is what I've seen for 690 MSRP.
__________________
2008 DR650SE supermoto
2009 CRF230M
sagebrushocean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:46 AM   #62511
DirtySumo
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
+1,
Or just fill the treaded hole with silicone or RTV and forget it. You want to prevent water from getting into the frame once the roller and bolt is removed..

+1 +1

That's what I did too. "Simple" is my moto.
To address the original post --> Since it was mentioned somewhere long ago, the Collective "We" have concluded that Suzuki mounted the roller too low. Pure street riders/fire-roaders won't have a problem. Get knarly off-road with even a 'proper' chain adjust, then the upper sweep of the swing arm positions the chain run waaaay up there. . right against the upper roller. Additionally, that chain whips like a pissed-off snake you just stepped on.. . . add a handful of throttle as the chain whips. . .EVENTUALLY it hammers the roller to death. I'm sure a heavy loaded DR will create the same kind of evil angle/hammering...You may already, but, only use the Factory play spec with tires on the ground.

BTW, the snake comparo is accurate. I've seen the chain whipping on a bud's bike. . .and I've looked DOWN at the snake. Wet myself almost.
DirtySumo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #62512
zdiver1
Gnarly Adventurer
 
zdiver1's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 470
Seat height

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
The numbers I've seen for the KTM 690 Enduro R are 331 pounds full of fuel, 65hp, 49ft-lb. For the DR650, 366 pounds, 37hp, 34ft-lb. So the weight difference is closer to 35 pounds than 20 pounds, and the power difference is night and day.



For me it's low maintenance and simplicity. But I can easily see how riders wanting a lot more power are going to go KTM, Husky, or Husaberg. High-compression liquid-cooled engines are what's required for that.



$10.2K is what I've seen for 690 MSRP.
930 millimeters = 36.6141732 inches
Alot of short guys around here!
every time I would stop I would fall down.
a big reason I got the DR was lower seat.
zdiver1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 10:23 AM   #62513
DirtySumo
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Sorry for the noob like question but when I checked the slack in chain today I noticed that when the bike was on the side stand, the chain was sitting right on the lower roller. I measured the movement and it was over 1 1/2 inches. The lower roller is showing some wear. The question is; Is it normal for the chain to sit on the lower roller ?

Thanks
Canoli
"Yes". . . fairly normal. HOW MUCH it sits there can depend on your sprocket sizes, but if it didn't sit there it could mean your chain is waaaaay too tight. That chain thingy will be moving away from the roller as you get your weight on it and ride. BTW: Those adj. snails won't allow a proper adjust anyway. Mine is either at the loose limit or too tight. I'm grinding the bugger smooth today. I'll put some additional indexers of some sort for help. Remember: alignment VERY important also.
DirtySumo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 11:25 AM   #62514
bross
Where we riding to?
 
bross's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,524
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
"Yes". . . fairly normal. HOW MUCH it sits there can depend on your sprocket sizes, but if it didn't sit there it could mean your chain is waaaaay too tight. That chain thingy will be moving away from the roller as you get your weight on it and ride. BTW: Those adj. snails won't allow a proper adjust anyway. Mine is either at the loose limit or too tight. I'm grinding the bugger smooth today. I'll put some additional indexers of some sort for help. Remember: alignment VERY important also.
I've never worried about mine as I prefer to keep the chain on the loose side anyway. Agree about the alignment, this is your friend...



some have found their snail adjusters aren't aligned, but fortunately mine are OK.
bross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 11:41 AM   #62515
sagebrushocean
Harris's hawker
 
sagebrushocean's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: jackrabbit country
Oddometer: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
930 millimeters = 36.6141732 inches
Alot of short guys around here!
every time I would stop I would fall down.
a big reason I got the DR was lower seat.
Try sitting on a Duke. I ride a DR with the seat height lowered via the factory route, and I can easily get both feet down on a Duke (31" inseam). I've heard that the 2012 Duke 690 isn't coming stateside, though. The underframe exhaust on the Duke does limit ground clearance, which might make curb-hopping a challenge.

I'm sure that the 690 Enduro can be lowered, if you really want the extra oomph over the DR.
__________________
2008 DR650SE supermoto
2009 CRF230M
sagebrushocean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 11:58 AM   #62516
chilibizkit
Wanderer
 
chilibizkit's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Plainfield Ont.
Oddometer: 138
Lowered pegs

So finally got some decent boots, Tech 3 to stay drier on the rides.

Test run find I am having trouble shifting as now difficult to angle my foot underneath the shifter. I know they need breaking in but just the angle needed to shift up is pretty uncomfortable, even if they were worn in.

I tried angling the shifter so I can get my boot under easier but now find I can hit it back enough to shift up. So now as heading offroad tomorrow am putting shifter back in stock position and riding with old boots on.

Do the lowered pegs you see selling out there alieviate this problem?
chilibizkit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 12:04 PM   #62517
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,252
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilibizkit View Post
So finally got some decent boots, Tech 3 to stay drier on the rides.

Test run find I am having trouble shifting as now difficult to angle my foot underneath the shifter. I know they need breaking in but just the angle needed to shift up is pretty uncomfortable, even if they were worn in.

I tried angling the shifter so I can get my boot under easier but now find I can hit it back enough to shift up. So now as heading offroad tomorrow am putting shifter back in stock position and riding with old boots on.

Do the lowered pegs you see selling out there alieviate this problem?
Lowered pegs might help a little but the one thing that will make the biggest difference in this case is a set of Pivot Pegz.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 12:17 PM   #62518
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Well, then, there you have it. I have now ACTUALLY gone thru all pages from 2008 to here. I was going to go back to this info. . . .so thanks A-G for summing up. ( 3000 some-odd pages?. . .good lord, what a nerd). My wife was starting to wonder why I was always on the laptop at It's A Grind or Starbucks when we had a brew. Normally I just stare out into space.. ." another bike, some other time" . . .
No worries Sumo ... no need to read it all ... just ask here. Most here don't mind repeating info or linking you to the Index. You have found the DR650 Index pages ... right? Lots of specific info there; short and sweet.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

I'd leave the shim washers behind and either get a FRC or TM40 Carb or get the Dyno Jet needle and DJ kit for stock Carb. Stock needle is crap. The DJ needle really wakes things up and the DR runs better all the way around with proper jetting and breathing.

Follow Jesse's advice. I screwed around with shimming and jetting for ages before I tried the DJ needle. Night and Day.

Suspension and brakes also need attention ... when you get round to it.


Near Loreto, Baja Sur - new pavement ... new tires!
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 12:21 PM   #62519
chilibizkit
Wanderer
 
chilibizkit's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Plainfield Ont.
Oddometer: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Lowered pegs might help a little but the one thing that will make the biggest difference in this case is a set of Pivot Pegz.
I was checking those out on your site.

What if they combined those pegs with the lower mount? Double whammy.

If you want I can try them out and report back
chilibizkit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 12:21 PM   #62520
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,130
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
Just unscrew the original roller/post and install a set screw with blue loctite. No cutting needed. Very simple and highly recommened to avoid the big hole in frame later. I know some will argue that a properly adjusted chain will not rip out the post, BUT, I seem to have read several posts where the chain was properly adjusted and the post was still ripped off. Your choice.

Chris in Topeka
Your choice in pictures:


Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
The numbers I've seen for the KTM 690 Enduro R are 331 pounds full of fuel, 65hp, 49ft-lb. For the DR650, 366 pounds, 37hp, 34ft-lb. So the weight difference is closer to 35 pounds than 20 pounds, and the power difference is night and day.
Yes, there is always the HORSEPOWER.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
For me it's low maintenance and simplicity. But I can easily see how riders wanting a lot more power are going to go KTM, Husky, or Husaberg. High-compression liquid-cooled engines are what's required for that.
I can understand the draw. I owned a 400cc 2 stroke; it was a rush and light. As another victim of a 30" inseam, I'll never know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
$10.2K is what I've seen for 690 MSRP.
Thanks for finding the $.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
930 millimeters = 36.6141732 inches
Alot of short guys around here!
every time I would stop I would fall down.
+1 With my DR at stock height and a Corbin, it's tippy toes only.
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014