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Old 04-06-2012, 10:16 PM   #62521
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
The Ricor Intiminators have a piston ring like seal that seals the perimeter of the valve against the inside diameter of the fork tube. You have to be careful when installing them that you don't pinch, invert, or misposition this seal. I would imagine that could be a possible scenario if you are experiencing excessive binding/stiction.

From what I have read and my experience with the Ricor Intiminators in my bike...the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators are better suited for off road use. I have never ridden a bike with emulators before, but the Intiminators become very harsh when braking hard with the front brake over choppy terrain. This is were the inertia valve that is such a benefit fighting brake dive on the street works against you off road. Yes I'm using the recommended 5 W fork oil.

Tech23
Spot On!
Based on my dim memories of all the banter regards Iniminators vs. Emulators ... what you've described is the conclusion most came too.
Intiminators better ON ROAD, Race Tech better off road.

Thanks for the clarification and for refreshing memories on this. It's all here but hard to track down among 60K plus posts.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:02 PM   #62522
DirtySumo
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Well, then, there you have it. I have now ACTUALLY gone thru all pages from 2008 to here. I was going to go back to this info. . . .so thanks A-G for summing up. ( 3000 some-odd pages?. . .good lord, what a nerd). My wife was starting to wonder why I was always on the laptop at It's A Grind or Starbucks when we had a brew. Normally I just stare out into space.. ." another bike, some other time" . . .
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:33 AM   #62523
Born-to-ride
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Got the DR at last. Three years without a bike. Feels like a lifetime. Fitted an eagle screen yesterday. What a huge differance it makes!!!
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:47 AM   #62524
Load Clear
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Yes, I have searched the threads

Hey All:

(See subject line). I believe I am going to pick up a 2012 DR pretty soon. I have never bought a new bike but given 0% financing, I will be able to buy gear I need too.

Questions:
- How & how much can I haggle on a bike? It's easy to get this info for cars but not bikes. One dealer is posting $5,499 + $215 freight & prep

- (Again, please see subject line) - It has been a very long time since I have ridden so I have to buy all my safety gear. This leaves me with enough $ to buy luggage for commuting. Do I need to figure out what bags I want first to determine the frame I need or is there a universal system for hooking up panniers? I'll need room to leave my riding clothes, boots & helmet.

Thanks -
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:03 AM   #62525
greer
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They'll set you back about $400, but I've read good things about the HT SL racks and Mojave bags for a neat, no-fuss set up:

http://www.happy-trail.com/Mojave-So...Bags-Pair.aspx

More here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758746

Sarah
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:53 AM   #62526
Ride-til-sore!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Most Brother DR Riders here use RTV silicone in the hole to keep the crap out of the frame and bunging up the threads just in case Procycle comes out with a upper roller hole solar panel add on that gets 75 mpg.
I thought I had read someone say just to take the top chain roller off as it's not really needed and can cause more damage then it's worth? I wonder if they were talking about just pulling the wheel off the peg or cutting the peg off the frame as well before in can make a hole?
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:44 AM   #62527
mercenario27
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Valves

Thanks for the help, got her done last night.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:31 AM   #62528
canoli
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Dumb chain related question

Sorry for the noob like question but when I checked the slack in chain today I noticed that when the bike was on the side stand, the chain was sitting right on the lower roller. I measured the movement and it was over 1 1/2 inches. The lower roller is showing some wear. The question is; Is it normal for the chain to sit on the lower roller ?

Thanks
Canoli
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:19 AM   #62529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
help...I am looking for a post on this site where the "man" built a tach and speedometer (vapor) and brought it up and forward under the windshield...it was a instrument box that was up like a Dakar just below the windshield. Damned if i can find it again...anyone help a guy form Idaho out here?
Curious - was Jay's bike the one you were looking for or is it another? I'm interested too as I'll be doing a small dash project - not as extensive as Jay's.

Regarding luggage. A few weeks ago there was a discussion about Seahorse waterproof cases used as panniers. http://www.seahorsecases.com/ You'll need racks they'll bolt up to but the price was fair.

Edit: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=60928 Here it is
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TrophyHunter screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 07:26 AM
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:57 AM   #62530
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Thanks Jon all done. The forks were a little bit of a stuggle until I realized that I needed to loosen the fork dust cover band at the top as well as the clamps. I was bring the thing up and down pushing with all I could and just could not see why they would no slide up. I loosened the little dust cover bands and they slide right up! I cut 3/4" of an inch out of the kick stand and will be having my buddy weld it back together tomorrow. I didn't flip the spring perch as of yet but I will try and find out why that is important because all I have read just says to do it but nothing on why it's needed? I know I read a few posts where guys said they didn't do it and didn't have any problems? Thanks again for the help!
The way it works is that by flipping the spring perch\seat it raises the bump stop (shock cushion) on the shock shaft and makes the shock travel less. So basically the suspension travel is limited at the "shock". Otherwise, as others have stated, you may hit the fender or other components when the suspension is fully compressed. Page 5-53 of the manual has a good picture of how flipping the seat limits travel of the shock.

When you flip the spring perch\seat it will also actually preload (compress) the spring more then before you flipped it because the space between the spring seat and the two adjusting rings on top of the spring becomes shorter. That is why the manual also has you reset those adjusting rings on top of the spring, so you can return the spring preload to the same as before you flipped the spring seat. This can all be done on the bike even though the manual shows you removing the spring\shock.

A little trick for adjusting the preload on the spring is to first loosen the top locking ring and unscrew it out of the way, but leave the lower adjusting ring in contact with the top of the spring. Then just grasp the spring with your hand and rotate it. Both the spring and adjusting ring will move together. Once at desired preload retighten the top locking ring. Clean the treads first if needed.

IIRC the front forks can be slid up in the clamps about 3\4" with out fender interferance problems, but you may want to do your own measurements to verify this.

Good luck!

Rumlover screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 10:53 AM
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:00 AM   #62531
cemory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
I thought I had read someone say just to take the top chain roller off as it's not really needed and can cause more damage then it's worth? I wonder if they were talking about just pulling the wheel off the peg or cutting the peg off the frame as well before in can make a hole?

Just unscrew the original roller/post and install a set screw with blue loctite. No cutting needed. Very simple and highly recommened to avoid the big hole in frame later. I know some will argue that a properly adjusted chain will not rip out the post, BUT, I seem to have read several posts where the chain was properly adjusted and the post was still ripped off. Your choice.

Chris in Topeka
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:09 AM   #62532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
Just unscrew the original roller/post and install a set screw with blue loctite. No cutting needed. Very simple and highly recommened to avoid the big hole in frame later. I know some will argue that a properly adjusted chain will not rip out the post, BUT, I seem to have read several posts where the chain was properly adjusted and the post was still ripped off. Your choice.

Chris in Topeka
+1,
Or just fill the treaded hole with silicone or RTV and forget it. You want to prevent water from getting into the frame once the roller and bolt is removed..
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:15 AM   #62533
sagebrushocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
My buddy is a KTM fanatic. Yep, they're faster and yep they're rumored to be lighter (the current 690 is 142 kg (313 lb.) DRY. Oh, wait, that's only 20 pounds lighter than my DR .
The numbers I've seen for the KTM 690 Enduro R are 331 pounds full of fuel, 65hp, 49ft-lb. For the DR650, 366 pounds, 37hp, 34ft-lb. So the weight difference is closer to 35 pounds than 20 pounds, and the power difference is night and day.

Quote:
But I ride solo and dependability it my first concern.
For me it's low maintenance and simplicity. But I can easily see how riders wanting a lot more power are going to go KTM, Husky, or Husaberg. High-compression liquid-cooled engines are what's required for that.

Quote:
The KTM 500 EXC is $9899. Seems they don't want me to know how much the 690's are.
$10.2K is what I've seen for 690 MSRP.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:46 AM   #62534
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
+1,
Or just fill the treaded hole with silicone or RTV and forget it. You want to prevent water from getting into the frame once the roller and bolt is removed..

+1 +1

That's what I did too. "Simple" is my moto.
To address the original post --> Since it was mentioned somewhere long ago, the Collective "We" have concluded that Suzuki mounted the roller too low. Pure street riders/fire-roaders won't have a problem. Get knarly off-road with even a 'proper' chain adjust, then the upper sweep of the swing arm positions the chain run waaaay up there. . right against the upper roller. Additionally, that chain whips like a pissed-off snake you just stepped on.. . . add a handful of throttle as the chain whips. . .EVENTUALLY it hammers the roller to death. I'm sure a heavy loaded DR will create the same kind of evil angle/hammering...You may already, but, only use the Factory play spec with tires on the ground.

BTW, the snake comparo is accurate. I've seen the chain whipping on a bud's bike. . .and I've looked DOWN at the snake. Wet myself almost.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:49 AM   #62535
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Seat height

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagebrushocean View Post
The numbers I've seen for the KTM 690 Enduro R are 331 pounds full of fuel, 65hp, 49ft-lb. For the DR650, 366 pounds, 37hp, 34ft-lb. So the weight difference is closer to 35 pounds than 20 pounds, and the power difference is night and day.



For me it's low maintenance and simplicity. But I can easily see how riders wanting a lot more power are going to go KTM, Husky, or Husaberg. High-compression liquid-cooled engines are what's required for that.



$10.2K is what I've seen for 690 MSRP.
930 millimeters = 36.6141732 inches
Alot of short guys around here!
every time I would stop I would fall down.
a big reason I got the DR was lower seat.
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