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Old 04-09-2012, 12:16 PM   #62641
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Anyone?
Ask this guy: Motolab http://www.advrider.com/forums/member.php?u=23775
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:03 PM   #62642
DirtySumo
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ALMOST a knee buster asteroid . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Yep ... pants, socks ... and most important: Knee pads. Your knee pads should extend down INTO the top of the boot. This will prevent a broken Tibia. Most good boots are made in Italy .... and they must use tiny Pencil Necks for models. Even my skinny calfs have trouble ... but my Sidi Crossfires are pretty adjustable. (should be for $600)
+1
JUST happened on Easter. . ."Just when you think it's safe to get in the 'water" . ---> Zipping along a county canyon that has "rock slides" once in a while, a pick-up truck coming the opposite way sqeeeeeezed/shot a softball sized rock out sideways and it connected with my left knee cap. Knocked my foot off the peg. LUCKY FOR ME . .I was wearing a pair of those hard plastic knee-cap-shin armors under my jeans. Hurt like hell. No damage to me tho. That would have busted a knee. My road Sidi's doesn't do much for the upper shins and knee.
A good $15 spent long ago.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:10 PM   #62643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
JUST happened on Easter. . ."Just when you think it's safe to get in the 'water" . ---> Zipping along a county canyon that has "rock slides" once in a while, a pick-up truck coming the opposite way sqeeeeeezed/shot a softball sized rock out sideways and it connected with my left knee cap. Knocked my foot off the peg. LUCKY FOR ME . .I was wearing a pair of those hard plastic knee-cap-shin armors under my jeans. Hurt like hell. No damage to me tho. That would have busted a knee. My road Sidi's doesn't do much for the upper shins and knee.
A good $15 spent long ago.
That would have been bad, I have those protectors too, love them !
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:38 PM   #62644
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
Does anyone know a good source for a cam chain, new valves, and full set of gaskets for the engine? By a good source I mean a cheap one really!

My cam chain broke on friday on a ride, Ive just pullled the engine out and its not pretty, this will take hours and hours to put right and no doubt cost $500 grrrrr

thanks in advance
Wow! Bad luck! Yours is the first broken Cam chain I've heard of. Are you certain the Cam chain was the beginning of the problem? Or could something else have failed which resulted in Cam chain snapping?

The best source for you is finding a used motor or one with a messed up bottom end that you can salvage the top end from. For new parts, it's going to be Suzuki, as far as I know, no Chinese sources for DR650 motor parts have turned up yet.

I know Suzuki parts are pricey in Canada. I would find a friend in Bellingham or Seattle, have them order parts from a Suzuki dealer, then ride them across the border and home. Might save a few bucks.

Ron Ayers, Babbit's and one or two others have decent prices for OEM Suzuki parts.

But my energy would go into finding a nice, crashed DR650. Buy the whole thing, use what you need, part out the rest. OR ... part out your bike and start over. I did this and came out ahead financially ... and I still have a set of forks, wheels and a spare swing arm left over! (among other things!) ... but sorry, the motor is sold off long ago. It's lots of work and lots of shipping ... but in the end, can work out. I even sent stuff to Canada, Australia and the Phillipines. PITA.

This will probably mean a trip to the USA. But far more DR activity in the evil South. Best of luck, any specifics on failure would be much appreciated by all!
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:51 PM   #62645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have my carb apart for a (needed) cleaning. I see two o-rings of different sizes on the orange plastic float assembly (one above the float valve and one near the pilot jet tube). Would anyone happen to know the sizes of those two o-rings? I have a local hardware store with a great selection of metric o-rings and, hopefully, can source them there.

TIA, Dave.
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:33 PM   #62646
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new guy with guestion

hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #62647
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


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DirtySumo screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 03:05 PM
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:19 PM   #62648
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Thumb Looking good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


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I like the Yamaha TW 200 look of your tires, makes it easy to take a spare tire on a trip(1). I also signed up with your photo host.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:25 PM   #62649
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Question Dirtysumo

So how is that SuperBrace on the front forks working out? That is about the only thing on PC website I have not ordered.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:38 PM   #62650
DirtySumo
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Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
That would have been bad, I have those protectors too, love them !
Yep. . .the hindsight ."Darn. . should'a worn more". . can really suck. We pad-people are true masters of our destiny, sir.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:43 PM   #62651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
So how is that SuperBrace on the front forks working out? That is about the only thing on PC website I have not ordered.

They are sweeeet. Actually, sorta had too. The 21" skidded a tad when trying to push it a bit too much. Too much pucker factor, if you know what I mean. The 120/90's stick pretty good . .enough to get a twitch after the forks unloaded that torque when straightening up. Now it's stable. Worth it IMO.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:57 PM   #62652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.
How did you attach the shield?
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:00 PM   #62653
zdiver1
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Not answering your question but!

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
You sound like you have a 30”inseam when I got my 2011 I had to pre order it October 2010 and wait, 2010 no DRs were sent to the US. So I had time to order upgrades I had a big box waiting.
I had never done springs and gold valves so I took mine to a local shop and had heavy springs and gold valve installed and had the bike lowered with the heavy springs the bike is between low and high setting I also put a Sargent low seat on.
After reading this ADV site waiting for my bike It was do it now or do it later!
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:02 PM   #62654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love that fat front tire. Did you just lace up a stock rear rim to the stock front hub?
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:02 PM   #62655
WilderRider
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Pick Up Pulser Coil

How concerned should I be that the "new" pick up pulser coil I bought from Regulator Rectifier is testing at 360 ohms (when the Suzuki manual puts it at 170 to 256 ohms)?

I only tested it on a whim, not considering that the new one might have problems. But it is is pretty consistent at 360-365 ohms on the multimeter with the attached wires. Should I just put it in and see what happens? Hate to have to do this twice.
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