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Old 04-08-2012, 10:12 PM   #62641
tobster9
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Pitt Meadows, British Columbia,
Oddometer: 118
Engine bits

Does anyone know a good source for a cam chain, new valves, and full set of gaskets for the engine? By a good source I mean a cheap one really!

My cam chain broke on friday on a ride, Ive just pullled the engine out and its not pretty, this will take hours and hours to put right and no doubt cost $500 grrrrr

thanks in advance
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:00 AM   #62642
MikkSteel
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Location: Honolulu, HI
Oddometer: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
You have to properly condition a new battery when you first activate it. It needs to be on a trickle charger or a Battery Tender until it's fully charged after you add the acid. I suspect that the new battery died on the way to Hawaii.

You can't trust voltage readings when a bad battery is in line. I don't know why they behave that way, but that's exactly how mine behaved when the battery died...it showed a drop in voltage with the engine running.
Hmmm... It's a sealed battery, no acid to add. It's new, I guess I could go try to get a new one under warranty.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:04 AM   #62643
Klay
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Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
Hmmm... It's a sealed battery, no acid to add. It's new, I guess I could go try to get a new one under warranty.
Who did you buy it from? The seller receives the battery from the manufacturer in an unactivated state. They should have added the acid, sealed the battery permanently, and done the initial charge correctly.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:08 AM   #62644
MikkSteel
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Originally Posted by Klay View Post
Who did you buy it from? The seller receives the battery from the manufacturer in an unactivated state. They should have added the acid, sealed the battery permanently, and done the initial charge correctly.
It's a Deka battery, ordered through Ebay from a company called Pasco in Virginia. There's a Deka dealer here on Oahu. If I continue to have problems I'm going to bring it to them.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:52 AM   #62645
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
I have my carb apart for a (needed) cleaning. I see two o-rings of different sizes on the orange plastic float assembly (one above the float valve and one near the pilot jet tube). Would anyone happen to know the sizes of those two o-rings? I have a local hardware store with a great selection of metric o-rings and, hopefully, can source them there.

TIA, Dave.
Anyone?
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:57 AM   #62646
TaZ9
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Location: Northern Colorado
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Too bad about your engine...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
Does anyone know a good source for a cam chain, new valves, and full set of gaskets for the engine? By a good source I mean a cheap one really!

My cam chain broke on friday on a ride, Ive just pullled the engine out and its not pretty, this will take hours and hours to put right and no doubt cost $500 grrrrr

thanks in advance
Just curious what your milage was when it broke? Any symptoms (noises, hard starting) that it was going bad before it broke?

Hope you get it fixed.

Thanks,

Taz9

R.A.D.D. Riders Against Distracted Drivers
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:09 AM   #62647
sagedrifter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
It's a Deka battery, ordered through Ebay from a company called Pasco in Virginia. There's a Deka dealer here on Oahu. If I continue to have problems I'm going to bring it to them.
My DEKA still needed about 4 hours on the charger when it was new. They come ready to go though.

Batteries suffer greatly when they draw down to nothing. But, my DEKA self discharges very slowly. After sitting 3 months mine was still charged up and would not prompt the smart charger to do anything beyond maintain. But I do trickle charge my batteries before storage.

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Old 04-09-2012, 10:38 AM   #62648
zdiver1
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Peoria,Arizona
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I did check it

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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
There is no consistency in the H4 HIDs that I have seen and there is a good chance you'll need to adjust it... beats me why you didn't check that to begin with instead of asking.
Something else is that your light may have a really bad low beam cut-off that is irritating people.
I did the normal mark the beam on the wall and the hid hit the same spot,I guess I will adj down some but the box did say for offroad use only.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:16 AM   #62649
trailrider383
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Location: NP, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Anyone?
Ask this guy: Motolab http://www.advrider.com/forums/member.php?u=23775
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:03 PM   #62650
DirtySumo
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Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
ALMOST a knee buster asteroid . .

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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Yep ... pants, socks ... and most important: Knee pads. Your knee pads should extend down INTO the top of the boot. This will prevent a broken Tibia. Most good boots are made in Italy .... and they must use tiny Pencil Necks for models. Even my skinny calfs have trouble ... but my Sidi Crossfires are pretty adjustable. (should be for $600)
+1
JUST happened on Easter. . ."Just when you think it's safe to get in the 'water" . ---> Zipping along a county canyon that has "rock slides" once in a while, a pick-up truck coming the opposite way sqeeeeeezed/shot a softball sized rock out sideways and it connected with my left knee cap. Knocked my foot off the peg. LUCKY FOR ME . .I was wearing a pair of those hard plastic knee-cap-shin armors under my jeans. Hurt like hell. No damage to me tho. That would have busted a knee. My road Sidi's doesn't do much for the upper shins and knee.
A good $15 spent long ago.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:10 PM   #62651
Nibis
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Troy, Mo.
Oddometer: 844
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
JUST happened on Easter. . ."Just when you think it's safe to get in the 'water" . ---> Zipping along a county canyon that has "rock slides" once in a while, a pick-up truck coming the opposite way sqeeeeeezed/shot a softball sized rock out sideways and it connected with my left knee cap. Knocked my foot off the peg. LUCKY FOR ME . .I was wearing a pair of those hard plastic knee-cap-shin armors under my jeans. Hurt like hell. No damage to me tho. That would have busted a knee. My road Sidi's doesn't do much for the upper shins and knee.
A good $15 spent long ago.
That would have been bad, I have those protectors too, love them !
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:38 PM   #62652
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobster9 View Post
Does anyone know a good source for a cam chain, new valves, and full set of gaskets for the engine? By a good source I mean a cheap one really!

My cam chain broke on friday on a ride, Ive just pullled the engine out and its not pretty, this will take hours and hours to put right and no doubt cost $500 grrrrr

thanks in advance
Wow! Bad luck! Yours is the first broken Cam chain I've heard of. Are you certain the Cam chain was the beginning of the problem? Or could something else have failed which resulted in Cam chain snapping?

The best source for you is finding a used motor or one with a messed up bottom end that you can salvage the top end from. For new parts, it's going to be Suzuki, as far as I know, no Chinese sources for DR650 motor parts have turned up yet.

I know Suzuki parts are pricey in Canada. I would find a friend in Bellingham or Seattle, have them order parts from a Suzuki dealer, then ride them across the border and home. Might save a few bucks.

Ron Ayers, Babbit's and one or two others have decent prices for OEM Suzuki parts.

But my energy would go into finding a nice, crashed DR650. Buy the whole thing, use what you need, part out the rest. OR ... part out your bike and start over. I did this and came out ahead financially ... and I still have a set of forks, wheels and a spare swing arm left over! (among other things!) ... but sorry, the motor is sold off long ago. It's lots of work and lots of shipping ... but in the end, can work out. I even sent stuff to Canada, Australia and the Phillipines. PITA.

This will probably mean a trip to the USA. But far more DR activity in the evil South. Best of luck, any specifics on failure would be much appreciated by all!
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:51 PM   #62653
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I have my carb apart for a (needed) cleaning. I see two o-rings of different sizes on the orange plastic float assembly (one above the float valve and one near the pilot jet tube). Would anyone happen to know the sizes of those two o-rings? I have a local hardware store with a great selection of metric o-rings and, hopefully, can source them there.

TIA, Dave.
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:33 PM   #62654
metalmanipulator
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: pnw
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new guy with guestion

hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:59 PM   #62655
DirtySumo
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Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


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