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Old 04-09-2012, 03:19 PM   #62656
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Thumb Looking good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


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I like the Yamaha TW 200 look of your tires, makes it easy to take a spare tire on a trip(1). I also signed up with your photo host.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:25 PM   #62657
zdiver1
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Question Dirtysumo

So how is that SuperBrace on the front forks working out? That is about the only thing on PC website I have not ordered.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:38 PM   #62658
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
That would have been bad, I have those protectors too, love them !
Yep. . .the hindsight ."Darn. . should'a worn more". . can really suck. We pad-people are true masters of our destiny, sir.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #62659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
So how is that SuperBrace on the front forks working out? That is about the only thing on PC website I have not ordered.

They are sweeeet. Actually, sorta had too. The 21" skidded a tad when trying to push it a bit too much. Too much pucker factor, if you know what I mean. The 120/90's stick pretty good . .enough to get a twitch after the forks unloaded that torque when straightening up. Now it's stable. Worth it IMO.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:57 PM   #62660
TDY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.
How did you attach the shield?
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'15 FZ-07 (new toy)
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:00 PM   #62661
zdiver1
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Not answering your question but!

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
You sound like you have a 30”inseam when I got my 2011 I had to pre order it October 2010 and wait, 2010 no DRs were sent to the US. So I had time to order upgrades I had a big box waiting.
I had never done springs and gold valves so I took mine to a local shop and had heavy springs and gold valve installed and had the bike lowered with the heavy springs the bike is between low and high setting I also put a Sargent low seat on.
After reading this ADV site waiting for my bike It was do it now or do it later!
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:02 PM   #62662
Rugby4life
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Upstate SC (GSP area)
Oddometer: 675
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love that fat front tire. Did you just lace up a stock rear rim to the stock front hub?
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:02 PM   #62663
WilderRider
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Location: Denver, CO
Oddometer: 1,740
Pick Up Pulser Coil

How concerned should I be that the "new" pick up pulser coil I bought from Regulator Rectifier is testing at 360 ohms (when the Suzuki manual puts it at 170 to 256 ohms)?

I only tested it on a whim, not considering that the new one might have problems. But it is is pretty consistent at 360-365 ohms on the multimeter with the attached wires. Should I just put it in and see what happens? Hate to have to do this twice.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:03 PM   #62664
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilderRider View Post
How concerned should I be that the "new" pick up pulser coil I bought from Regulator Rectifier is testing at 360 ohms (when the Suzuki manual puts it at 170 to 256 ohms)?

I only tested it on a whim, not considering that the new one might have problems. But it is is pretty consistent at 360-365 ohms on the multimeter with the attached wires. Should I just put it in and see what happens? Hate to have to do this twice.
The one I bought from them tested within the spec range. If you could get a hold of them and ask if that spec will work. I would hate to install it and have to redo the job.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #62665
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Annual snow viewing

Every year about this time a group of us ride out of the San Francisco Bay to view the snow in the local Sierra Nevada Mountains, elevation around 7k'. This is the only snow most of us see all year. Nine went this year: five KLRs, a BMW Roadster, a ZX14R and a KTM 690SM. And my DR.

Picnic in the snow country:



Packed for traveling:



Shinko 705 tires and I forget what windscreen.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:22 PM   #62666
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
With your mechanical skills, I think you're wasting energy trying to avoid removing the forks; 6 pinch bolts. Yes, the headlight will fall out but that's less of a hassle than working around getting the parts past the handlebars.
My nemesis is wheel bearings, I whine about the job for weeks before I jump in. It's so easy, I'm done before I finish whining.
Welcome to the asylum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
This is the only snow most of us see all year.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Nine went this year: five KLRs, a BMW Roadster, a ZX14R and a KTM 690SM. And my DR.

Lex
At least you and the ZX rider know that you'll get all the way back home.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 07:34 PM
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:33 PM   #62667
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
You can also order from Sudco. That's what I did and they had all the parts I needed at a better price than Suzuki.

http://www.sudco.com/
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:39 PM   #62668
ER70S-2
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Talking

Yeay Sudco, blondes and burgers!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:43 PM   #62669
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I've had this same Craftsman lift for about 5 years. I've read a lot of reviews where people have had the pump fail...but I've used it to lift my dirtbikes, my old 700lb cruiser, and even my John Deere riding mower.

I haven't done anything to maintain it or baby it in any way, so I don't know why this one continues to work when others fail. Maybe that's the secret, use it like you stole it and it'll keep on going strong?
The bottle jack on my Craftsman lift failed the second time I used it, so I took it back, got another on exchange. When I bought the jack, it came with two good-quality ratcheting hold-down straps, don't know if they still do. I had a brain fart, didn't put the straps in the box when I returned the jack, now I have four straps. Initially felt bad, then rationalized it as payment for me having to drive the minivan back to Sears.

Second jack has performed flawlessly for at least five years, including hoisting my Valkyrie several times a year.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:47 PM   #62670
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
I just buy a shim kit from HotCams so I have shims on hand. My closest dealer is over an hour away, so 2 hours travel time plus gas. $80 is a bargain, especially when you use the shim you calculated should be the right one, but it's a little too close to being outside spec, so you look in your shim kit and hey, there's the one I really need right there. Doing your own maintenance and NOT being close to civilization makes things like a shim kit pretty valuable to have around. $80 for 140+ shims seems like a good deal.

Shim Kits

Still have one for our sons KTM that was the wrong size for my CBF so I have both sizes of shims now.
Thanks for the reply, might have to come to that, but not until my friends becomes employed again.

I'm waiting for Albie to inform me where to buy those $1.75 shims, though!

Lex
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