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Old 04-09-2012, 08:03 PM   #62656
trailrider383
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Location: NP, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilderRider View Post
How concerned should I be that the "new" pick up pulser coil I bought from Regulator Rectifier is testing at 360 ohms (when the Suzuki manual puts it at 170 to 256 ohms)?

I only tested it on a whim, not considering that the new one might have problems. But it is is pretty consistent at 360-365 ohms on the multimeter with the attached wires. Should I just put it in and see what happens? Hate to have to do this twice.
The one I bought from them tested within the spec range. If you could get a hold of them and ask if that spec will work. I would hate to install it and have to redo the job.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:20 PM   #62657
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Annual snow viewing

Every year about this time a group of us ride out of the San Francisco Bay to view the snow in the local Sierra Nevada Mountains, elevation around 7k'. This is the only snow most of us see all year. Nine went this year: five KLRs, a BMW Roadster, a ZX14R and a KTM 690SM. And my DR.

Picnic in the snow country:



Packed for traveling:



Shinko 705 tires and I forget what windscreen.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:22 PM   #62658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
With your mechanical skills, I think you're wasting energy trying to avoid removing the forks; 6 pinch bolts. Yes, the headlight will fall out but that's less of a hassle than working around getting the parts past the handlebars.
My nemesis is wheel bearings, I whine about the job for weeks before I jump in. It's so easy, I'm done before I finish whining.
Welcome to the asylum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
This is the only snow most of us see all year.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Nine went this year: five KLRs, a BMW Roadster, a ZX14R and a KTM 690SM. And my DR.

Lex
At least you and the ZX rider know that you'll get all the way back home.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 04-09-2012, 08:33 PM   #62659
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
There is a small Japanese company in Hamamatsu, Japan that goes to a lot of trouble to make parts that actually fit your Carb. If your eye is really good, perhaps you can pick out an O ring that is a perfect match. I'd order from Suzuki and get the real thing. Also ... are the O rings at Ace hardware fuel and Ethanol resistant like Japanese ones? I'm still on my original O rings at 45K miles.
You can also order from Sudco. That's what I did and they had all the parts I needed at a better price than Suzuki.

http://www.sudco.com/
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:39 PM   #62660
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Talking

Yeay Sudco, blondes and burgers!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:43 PM   #62661
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I've had this same Craftsman lift for about 5 years. I've read a lot of reviews where people have had the pump fail...but I've used it to lift my dirtbikes, my old 700lb cruiser, and even my John Deere riding mower.

I haven't done anything to maintain it or baby it in any way, so I don't know why this one continues to work when others fail. Maybe that's the secret, use it like you stole it and it'll keep on going strong?
The bottle jack on my Craftsman lift failed the second time I used it, so I took it back, got another on exchange. When I bought the jack, it came with two good-quality ratcheting hold-down straps, don't know if they still do. I had a brain fart, didn't put the straps in the box when I returned the jack, now I have four straps. Initially felt bad, then rationalized it as payment for me having to drive the minivan back to Sears.

Second jack has performed flawlessly for at least five years, including hoisting my Valkyrie several times a year.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:47 PM   #62662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
I just buy a shim kit from HotCams so I have shims on hand. My closest dealer is over an hour away, so 2 hours travel time plus gas. $80 is a bargain, especially when you use the shim you calculated should be the right one, but it's a little too close to being outside spec, so you look in your shim kit and hey, there's the one I really need right there. Doing your own maintenance and NOT being close to civilization makes things like a shim kit pretty valuable to have around. $80 for 140+ shims seems like a good deal.

Shim Kits

Still have one for our sons KTM that was the wrong size for my CBF so I have both sizes of shims now.
Thanks for the reply, might have to come to that, but not until my friends becomes employed again.

I'm waiting for Albie to inform me where to buy those $1.75 shims, though!

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:50 PM   #62663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Does this mean stopped production for all markets or just stopped bringing them into the US like they did back in 2010? Manufacturers like to place bikes in markets with strong sales. For example, Canada still gets the DRZ 400SM the US doesn't.

If they are revamping the DR I hope they don't let the person at Suzuki responsible for the DRZ 400SM graphics have at it, because at Suzuki "revamp" means bold new graphics. You would think the tooling on the DR production line would be thoroughly worn out by now though.

Tech23
So true! I'd have been riding a DR much sooner if it wasn't for the BNG (and that purple frame ) of years past.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:55 PM   #62664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No worries Lex. Anyone who wants a real world report on
KTM 690 long term performance only need read this Ride Report by Fish Fund. Pretty much sums it up. Orange Kool-Aid boys can spin it any way they want; heard it all before. Skip up to page Nine to get to bike stuff. The first 9 pages are fluff.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ight=fish+fund
Read that ride report last year, excellent reading, highly recommended.

I did not show it to my friend! Too depressing for him.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:12 PM   #62665
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDY View Post
How did you attach the shield?
Simple sheet metal screws shimmed with high-temp gasket mat at each screw. The gaskets weren't really needed: the stock bends actually elevates the main body. . . but, what the heck. It'll stop SOME conducting heat I guess.
The screws are 3/4" long. The inside body walls are 3/8->1/2" thick (double). Gaskets total 1/16" thick. In use the shield gets 'warm'. . . but won't burn unless you REALLY want to get burned.
BTW: predrilled 3/32" holes for hex-head self tapping screws with the 1/4" head (about a .165" thread diam.) + used a washer under head. Might be #8's. Do pre-drill .. the second layer/wall will only deform if JUST a driven-in self tap is used. EVentually, I'll put some stainless screws there. Only had these on hand.

DirtySumo screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 09:26 PM
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:22 PM   #62666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Love that fat front tire. Did you just lace up a stock rear rim to the stock front hub?

No. Ordered a rim with a DR650 front hub as a mate. Got to be sure those spoke hole angles are stress-free for the spokes. BE SURE OF THAT, ok? Evil things can happen if you don't. Do not use a DR rear rim.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #62667
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
This may be hard to believe, but tell him to check with his local Harley dealer. Buell's with the Rotax motors use the same shims. Or if he can wait 2 or 3 days here. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...im/VALVE+SHIMS

Obviously all he needs is a couple shims of a few sizes smaller then what is currently in the bike. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
Thanks! I've forwarded your info to him, much appreciated.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:25 PM   #62668
JagLite
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Thumbs down fork lowering on the bike

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
Sure it can be done on the bike.
It will be more difficult, take longer, and probably be much messier though.
I have done the factory lowering and dropping the forks out is quick and easy.
Then it is easy to drain them and lay them out on the work bench.
Would I do it with them still on the bike? Not a chance.
Why make a job more difficult?
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:40 PM   #62669
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
I loosened one valve a tiny amount at 700 miles, so they were all near the loose range. Checked them again at 14k miles, all still within spec. My bike has an easy life, temperature and rpm-wise.

Lex
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:42 PM   #62670
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Thumpy View Post
Thanks carcajou, and doug s,
Beaverton Suzy in Beaverton, OR. will sell me one for $5699.99 plus T & Lic. Right now in Spokane, WA. I'm looking at $6075.00 plus T & Lic. or just under $6600.00 out the door. Just have to wait here in Spokane for 2 weeks for the new order of bikes to come in............ I do like to help keep the local guys doors open, plus I hope the service dept. will get my bike done first when they need to work on three bikes and my bike id the local one!!! VM.
Times have changed. $5400 OTD in the San Francisco Bay March of 2009. I like to buy locally, support the local industry; my dealership folded anyway due to the most recent Great Depression.

Lex
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