ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-09-2012, 07:50 PM   #62671
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Does this mean stopped production for all markets or just stopped bringing them into the US like they did back in 2010? Manufacturers like to place bikes in markets with strong sales. For example, Canada still gets the DRZ 400SM the US doesn't.

If they are revamping the DR I hope they don't let the person at Suzuki responsible for the DRZ 400SM graphics have at it, because at Suzuki "revamp" means bold new graphics. You would think the tooling on the DR production line would be thoroughly worn out by now though.

Tech23
So true! I'd have been riding a DR much sooner if it wasn't for the BNG (and that purple frame ) of years past.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #62672
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
No worries Lex. Anyone who wants a real world report on
KTM 690 long term performance only need read this Ride Report by Fish Fund. Pretty much sums it up. Orange Kool-Aid boys can spin it any way they want; heard it all before. Skip up to page Nine to get to bike stuff. The first 9 pages are fluff.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ight=fish+fund
Read that ride report last year, excellent reading, highly recommended.

I did not show it to my friend! Too depressing for him.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 08:12 PM   #62673
DirtySumo
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDY View Post
How did you attach the shield?
Simple sheet metal screws shimmed with high-temp gasket mat at each screw. The gaskets weren't really needed: the stock bends actually elevates the main body. . . but, what the heck. It'll stop SOME conducting heat I guess.
The screws are 3/4" long. The inside body walls are 3/8->1/2" thick (double). Gaskets total 1/16" thick. In use the shield gets 'warm'. . . but won't burn unless you REALLY want to get burned.
BTW: predrilled 3/32" holes for hex-head self tapping screws with the 1/4" head (about a .165" thread diam.) + used a washer under head. Might be #8's. Do pre-drill .. the second layer/wall will only deform if JUST a driven-in self tap is used. EVentually, I'll put some stainless screws there. Only had these on hand.

DirtySumo screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 08:26 PM
DirtySumo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 08:22 PM   #62674
DirtySumo
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Love that fat front tire. Did you just lace up a stock rear rim to the stock front hub?

No. Ordered a rim with a DR650 front hub as a mate. Got to be sure those spoke hole angles are stress-free for the spokes. BE SURE OF THAT, ok? Evil things can happen if you don't. Do not use a DR rear rim.
DirtySumo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 08:43 PM   #62675
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
This may be hard to believe, but tell him to check with his local Harley dealer. Buell's with the Rotax motors use the same shims. Or if he can wait 2 or 3 days here. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...im/VALVE+SHIMS

Obviously all he needs is a couple shims of a few sizes smaller then what is currently in the bike. Or if he's really broke, he can just file down the shims that are in the bike.
Thanks! I've forwarded your info to him, much appreciated.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 09:25 PM   #62676
JagLite
Studly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 931
Thumbs down fork lowering on the bike

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmanipulator View Post
hellow fellow inmates new guy here just wanted to say hi i just bought a 2012 dr650 and have a question on lowering ( i know another lowering question) the factory way. im looking at the manual and although i have not taken apart forks before the instructions look streight foward my question is why do i need to take the forks off ,other than loosing the oil, dont you pull the top cap off stick in your special tool and unbolt the bottom bolt and fish every thing out the top? ( rember i am just swaping the spacer)or am i missing something ? im a diesel mech. work on hyds. and fabractor so i have the tools and the abilty just need your expert advice from someone thats worked on forks befor ,thanx for the great site, Shawn
Sure it can be done on the bike.
It will be more difficult, take longer, and probably be much messier though.
I have done the factory lowering and dropping the forks out is quick and easy.
Then it is easy to drain them and lay them out on the work bench.
Would I do it with them still on the bike? Not a chance.
Why make a job more difficult?
__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 09:40 PM   #62677
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmaster View Post
I just spent a day doing Spring maintenance on my DR650. I checked the valves (they did not need adjusting at 7500 miles), replaced the NSU screws and safety wired them in (not to difficult but requires patience and a few hand crafted tools if you do not remove the clutch basket), and removed the upper chain roller and replaced it with a Loctite in set screw).
The original NSU screws were a little more than finger tight. Just out of curiosity how many have done the valves and found no adjustment required.
Now if it will just stop raining in Oregon.
I loosened one valve a tiny amount at 700 miles, so they were all near the loose range. Checked them again at 14k miles, all still within spec. My bike has an easy life, temperature and rpm-wise.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 09:42 PM   #62678
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Thumpy View Post
Thanks carcajou, and doug s,
Beaverton Suzy in Beaverton, OR. will sell me one for $5699.99 plus T & Lic. Right now in Spokane, WA. I'm looking at $6075.00 plus T & Lic. or just under $6600.00 out the door. Just have to wait here in Spokane for 2 weeks for the new order of bikes to come in............ I do like to help keep the local guys doors open, plus I hope the service dept. will get my bike done first when they need to work on three bikes and my bike id the local one!!! VM.
Times have changed. $5400 OTD in the San Francisco Bay March of 2009. I like to buy locally, support the local industry; my dealership folded anyway due to the most recent Great Depression.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 10:01 PM   #62679
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 2,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
No. Ordered a rim with a DR650 front hub as a mate. Got to be sure those spoke hole angles are stress-free for the spokes. BE SURE OF THAT, ok? Evil things can happen if you don't. Do not use a DR rear rim.
+1
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 10:02 PM   #62680
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Times have changed. $5400 OTD in the San Francisco Bay March of 2009. I like to buy locally, support the local industry;
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
my dealership folded anyway due to the most recent Great Depression.

Lex
Bummer
__________________
2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2012, 11:51 PM   #62681
Pauliic
LV
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Riga, LV
Oddometer: 7
Pauliic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:26 AM   #62682
Dravintoad
Toadthumpin
 
Dravintoad's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 1,731
Hey guys. I've got a little oil leak. Looks like it's the cam chain tensioner gasket.

Has anyone just used some permatex/gasket maker for this as opposed to a replacement gasket. I think I'd rather do this than buy another OEM gasket.

I have some red high temp and some of the ultra black, which do you think would be better? I'm thinking the red, but the Ultra black has better oil resistance.



Thanks...
__________________
Coitus Thou, Thou coital coitus.
Dravintoad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #62683
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 447
I used permatex ultra-grey. I have only put maybe 600 miles on since then, but no leaks yet. I got the recommendation to use that on this site, IIRC

EDIT: actually, it was here

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/613...r-gasket-leak/

Make sure to read up on proper removal and re-install of the CCT.

The OEM gasket is a bitch to get off. I ended up using a razor blade which put some nices on the cylinder where the gasket was. I figured the permatex would fill in those imperfections, which is seems to have done just fine.
Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:49 AM   #62684
Dravintoad
Toadthumpin
 
Dravintoad's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 1,731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
I used permatex ultra-grey. I have only put maybe 600 miles on since then, but no leaks yet. I got the recommendation to use that on this site, IIRC

EDIT: actually, it was here

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/613...r-gasket-leak/

Make sure to read up on proper removal and re-install of the CCT.

The OEM gasket is a bitch to get off. I ended up using a razor blade which put some nices on the cylinder where the gasket was. I figured the permatex would fill in those imperfections, which is seems to have done just fine.
Thanks. I read through that when researching the leak. Looks like a nice write-up.

I appreciate the heads-up for the gasket removal. I've had to do this with other gaskets, so I didn't really expect it would be an easier. But it's small and a little hard to get to, so I'm sure will cuss it a couple of times.
__________________
Coitus Thou, Thou coital coitus.
Dravintoad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:51 AM   #62685
Motodeficient
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 447
I have posted this before, but if you spring some baby powder, or even better use spray-on athlete's foot powder, on the engine and then take it for a ride, you can be sure of where the leak is coming from before you dig in.
Motodeficient is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014