ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-10-2012, 02:15 PM   #62686
twigsnapper
How did I get here?
 
twigsnapper's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Westsylvania
Oddometer: 531
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
If you’re thinking of installing a heavier shock spring rather than replacing the entire shock, here’s my experience.
...
Thanks Lex, hope I can find this post when I get around to doing this. I really hate when camping gear is loaded looking for a spot where the kickstand isn't too long.
__________________
-: -: -: -: -: -: -: -:\|/
: -: -: -: -: -: -: -: cU
twigsnapper
2008 dr650se
twigsnapper is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #62687
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
Rusty Rocket's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,859
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post

I was having start issues and thought I solved them by cleaning the pilot jet. It went well all day last Sunday, but I had Monday off and went trailriding a second day. The bike wouldn't start the first time I shut it off. I laid it on it's side and had the fuel off. It finally started. The rest of the day, before I shut it off, I turned off the gas. (I have the Raptor petcock) I would let the bike run a bit before killing the motor. I ended up replacing the 2 little o-rings that go on float assy.

I found this post from 10/15/2010. That's how long the o-rings lasted. They were stock Suzuki parts. I wonder if the "STAR*TRON" additive is doing it?
__________________
on one side the sign it said "Private Road", but on the other side it didn't say nothin'
2009 DR650
..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
Rusty Rocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #62688
bouldertag
WannabenarlyADV'rrrr
 
bouldertag's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 447
Never mind about my question regarding RMZ moto swap. They are different axle sizes and rotors etc.. wont work without allot of machining.
__________________
Burn out dont fade away!!
bouldertag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 02:58 PM   #62689
malokam
Gnarly Adventurer
 
malokam's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Piedmont, NC
Oddometer: 456
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Never mind about my question regarding RMZ moto swap. They are different axle sizes and rotors etc.. wont work without allot of machining.
Except for a DR350 Rear wheel swap everything else needs machining or finding the right spacers or both.
There is no complete swap without machining involved with the DR.

Popular swaps are... as per my knowledge...
DRZ Swingarm, Forks and wheel swap. (Expensive)
SV650 Swingarm swap for wider supermoto tire in the rear.
RM, RMZ Forks swap for better suspension
__________________
WITH GREAT HORSE POWER....... COMES SHITTY GAS MILEAGE .. AND HIGHER INSURANCE PREMIUM....

2007 DR650 SuperMoto with almost all the goodies..(it never ends ya know!)
Take a look at my cool sticker-bombing project
malokam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #62690
Mongle
Knuckle dragger
 
Mongle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
You are right about the clearance. . . but in all honesty, a person doing knarly offroad will do quite well w/o a brace.
t.

I was going to get one thinking "I will never use all the suspension anyway"...yeh right! I had a spare tube zip tied to my front fender (all the way around so the tie was under the fender too) and was riding down a nice dirt road and hit a washed out area about 2 ft deep- 3 ft wide! How I didn't crash is beyond me, but that spare tube went flying from the front tire taking out the zip ties! Made me wonder: would I have crashed with 2" less travel?

Like I tell my wife- Two more inches isn't important until you need it!
Mongle is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 03:22 PM   #62691
DirtySumo
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
Oddometer: 26
Not This.. orThat

Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
DirtySumo. You left the rear rim Stock? And added just the front 17". How is that in the dirt?

boulder
boulder:
I have a search out for a rear hub to lace a 4.25" to it. That will make my project complete, sorta. Then a 140 rear 705 and a front 120/90/17 705 and my "shitty road" cruiser will be good to go. So far, the STOCK rear 17" rim, and the 17" 2.5" front is darn, darn, darn nice.

But, you asked "Dirt" . . .: a qualified answer. For a hard-pack dirt trail, semi-hard rock debris mine-field, loose rock and dirt, this is as good a set-up the 705's could handle, EVER. So, it's A+ so far.

A steep, soft dirt, moist, DID I MENTION STEEP? . . , it's not good. You'll want knobbies. So far, on all trails where the dirt is hard enough where knobbies can't penetrate and do what knobbies do. . . then, well, knobbies are useless. Square inches of contact with 'Just Enough" bite is good. Think 'Miler Flat Track'. No knobbies at the 120 mph dirt turn entries. Wide fronts. Lots of tall side wall to help conform to the lumps.

You are thinking limited 17" tire selection? Yep. You're spot-on on that one. I choose the 17" because I wanted the absolute TALLEST sidewall available to humankind, and have a tolerable overall diameter.
Nowadays the way I go over larger rocks is bump them, as the front rises, gas it a tad, then up and over. I'm not as good as I used to be. I used to raise the front BEFORE I bumped, and let the rear do the work. I NEED a lot of sidewall up front to prevent rim/tube pinches now. But, I've discovered what I've been missing all these years. I can now be sloppy in the rocks but STILL look AWESOME, riding with seemingly reckless-abandon-skill, leaving my buddies behind on their KTM's, worried about their puny low-profiled skinny tires.

Hmmm, the rear in a 18" would be nice, eh?? Hmmmmmm. And, ok, trying to cut thru with a wide front will suck compared with a 21". . .but, wth. Can't have it all I guess.
DirtySumo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 03:31 PM   #62692
WilderRider
Beastly Adventurer
 
WilderRider's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Oddometer: 1,778
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
The one I bought from them tested within the spec range. If you could get a hold of them and ask if that spec will work. I would hate to install it and have to redo the job.
RegulatorRectifier will not answer that question specifically for me yet, but here is their response:

"We have been selling this same one for your application for a little while, I can check with the tech when he gets back in a few days, but I do not think that will pose an an issue using that one. Your old pickup coil was likely reading open."

I asked if the other units they had tested within spec, but I never received a response to that question.
__________________
RISK: "The loftier your goals, the higher your risk, the greater your glory."
WilderRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 03:31 PM   #62693
MikkSteel
Adventurer
 
MikkSteel's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Honolulu, HI
Oddometer: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
13.6v at 1600rpm (cold motor)

Motor off, the battery reads 12.6v immediately after unplugging the trickle charger, which is always plugged in when the bike is in the garage.

Thanks. Mine is dropping to 12.4v when the ignition is switched to on and staying there even with the bike running.

Regulator/Rectifier gone bad?
__________________
2006 XT225
MikkSteel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #62694
bouldertag
WannabenarlyADV'rrrr
 
bouldertag's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by malokam View Post
Except for a DR350 Rear wheel swap everything else needs machining or finding the right spacers or both.
There is no complete swap without machining involved with the DR.

Popular swaps are... as per my knowledge...
DRZ Swingarm, Forks and wheel swap. (Expensive)
SV650 Swingarm swap for wider supermoto tire in the rear.
RM, RMZ Forks swap for better suspension
Thanks molakam! good info.
__________________
Burn out dont fade away!!
bouldertag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 04:25 PM   #62695
bouldertag
WannabenarlyADV'rrrr
 
bouldertag's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
boulder:
I have a search out for a rear hub to lace a 4.25" to it. That will make my project complete, sorta. Then a 140 rear 705 and a front 120/90/17 705 and my "shitty road" cruiser will be good to go. So far, the STOCK rear 17" rim, and the 17" 2.5" front is darn, darn, darn nice.

But, you asked "Dirt" . . .: a qualified answer. For a hard-pack dirt trail, semi-hard rock debris mine-field, loose rock and dirt, this is as good a set-up the 705's could handle, EVER. So, it's A+ so far.

A steep, soft dirt, moist, DID I MENTION STEEP? . . , it's not good. You'll want knobbies. So far, on all trails where the dirt is hard enough where knobbies can't penetrate and do what knobbies do. . . then, well, knobbies are useless. Square inches of contact with 'Just Enough" bite is good. Think 'Miler Flat Track'. No knobbies at the 120 mph dirt turn entries. Wide fronts. Lots of tall side wall to help conform to the lumps.

You are thinking limited 17" tire selection? Yep. You're spot-on on that one. I choose the 17" because I wanted the absolute TALLEST sidewall available to humankind, and have a tolerable overall diameter.
Nowadays the way I go over larger rocks is bump them, as the front rises, gas it a tad, then up and over. I'm not as good as I used to be. I used to raise the front BEFORE I bumped, and let the rear do the work. I NEED a lot of sidewall up front to prevent rim/tube pinches now. But, I've discovered what I've been missing all these years. I can now be sloppy in the rocks but STILL look AWESOME, riding with seemingly reckless-abandon-skill, leaving my buddies behind on their KTM's, worried about their puny low-profiled skinny tires.

Hmmm, the rear in a 18" would be nice, eh?? Hmmmmmm. And, ok, trying to cut thru with a wide front will suck compared with a 21". . .but, wth. Can't have it all I guess.

Sounds good. I think I am going with the 17 / 4.25 rear and 19 / 2.50 up front. But I love the front of your bike as it looks real stable. I am tired of getting caught in 2 - 4" cracks that are in the freeways at times as my bikes current OEM 21 front likes to follow those cracks. I call them Satans autopilot cracks.
SM or adventure front set up looks real appealing with either a 17 or 19 up front.
boulder
__________________
Burn out dont fade away!!
bouldertag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 04:32 PM   #62696
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
ADV8's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Never mind about my question regarding RMZ moto swap. They are different axle sizes and rotors etc.. wont work without allot of machining.
Its easy the other way round,DR wheel (17 mm axle) into RMZ/DRZ USD forks (20 mm axle) with some adapters.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ork/?start=all

I have been running that set up for sometime (picked up a RMZ 450 21 inch front wheel) now wondering if the 17 in front DR rim will lace to a RMZ hub.
__________________
The person who got you the billet DR650 third gear set, you're welcome.
49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
ADV8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 04:41 PM   #62697
bouldertag
WannabenarlyADV'rrrr
 
bouldertag's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 447
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Its easy the other way round,DR wheel (17 mm axle) into RMZ/DRZ USD forks (20 mm axle) with some adapters.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ork/?start=all

I have been running that set up for sometime (picked up a RMZ 450 21 inch front wheel) now wondering if the 17 in front DR rim will lace to a RMZ hub.
Wow very nice!!

So you added the Ohlins spring?
__________________
Burn out dont fade away!!
bouldertag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 05:34 PM   #62698
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 441
Metallic "clink" when starting

Last Sunday I started the DR maybe 25 times. After about 5 starts, and when the motor was at operating temperature, when I pushed the Start button, simultaneous with the immediate ignition/run was a loud "clink." Heard the noise during two of the next five starts, then never again. Never before, either.

The noise sounded exactly like what you'd hear by striking two open-end wrenches together.

I've thought about this and looked around this site, but came up with nothing. I thought about the problem the previous generation of DR had with the starter, but mine's too new for that. My bike is a 2009 with 14+k miles on the odometer, well cared for.

I have occasionally hear the mild "screech" sound on starting a cold engine, indicating that I'll need to grease the end bearing in the starter motor this Summer.

Anyone else hear this noise? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 05:48 PM   #62699
notarat
Gnarly Adventurer
 
notarat's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Bluff City
Oddometer: 333
Oh crap.

Looks like I gotta read 4195 posts to catch up on the bike I just bought today...

I guess I'll sleep next month...

Edited again to say mine came in "Theft Deterrent Gray" color

And yet another Edit to say I think my first mods will be the Pro Cycle Seat kit, bash plate, D606s, and suspension.(re-valve & re-spring for my fat arse)

I'll save the intake/exhaust mods for later...

notarat screwed with this post 04-10-2012 at 05:54 PM Reason: posts...not pages
notarat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 06:13 PM   #62700
GaThumper
Road Less Traveled
 
GaThumper's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I called Sudco and they told me they do not carry parts for the BST40 carb. Those parts are Suzuki only. Unless I could provide them with Sudco part numbers, they could not help me. That's disappointing.
Sorry about the bad lead! I got parts for my FCR there and just assumed they would have the BST parts as well.

Next place to try my be inmate motolab!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038

Also lot's of great info in the BST Bible thread....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

and on Rob's web site.

http://mxrob.com/mxrob_012.htm
__________________
Dirtly: 2009 Suzuki DR650SE Road Sofa: 2001 Yamaha (ad)Venture 1300
Dirtlier: 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Old Sport: 1979 Suzuki GS1000E

1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)
GaThumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014