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Old 04-10-2012, 11:45 AM   #62686
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Do it. I just ordered the stock o-rings and they cosy $10+ for the pair and they lasted less than 2 years. Harbor Freight sells an O_RING KIT for about $10 that has 397 o-rings in it and BTW, I just discovered, IT"S ON SALE!!!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/397-pie...ent-67580.html

so what if they don't last, I can switch'em without removing the carb from the bike and fix it for less than 20 cents and save gas from not driving to the dealer. Bet they last as long or longer than stock.
it would be nice to know o-ring sizes; viton is far superior. i wonder if any of the o-rings in this kit would fit:

http://www.harborfreight.com/180-pie...kit-67525.html

doug s.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:19 PM   #62687
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
it would be nice to know o-ring sizes; viton is far superior. i wonder if any of the o-rings in this kit would fit:

http://www.harborfreight.com/180-pie...kit-67525.html

doug s.

It gives all the sizes in the kit. You just have to figure out the "P" sizes in mm to know. The 397 piece kit consists of a lot more sizes, but they are Nitrile rubber, maybe someone here knows how that mat'l hold up to ethanol.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:21 PM   #62688
MikkSteel
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Voltage

Does anyone know what the voltage should read on a running bike. I think I may have a charging system problem. Alternatively, is there any simple way to determine whether that's the case? Thanks!
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #62689
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Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
Does anyone know what the voltage should read on a running bike. I think I may have a charging system problem. Alternatively, is there any way to simply determine whether that's the case? Thanks!
13.6v at 1600rpm (cold motor)

Motor off, the battery reads 12.6v immediately after unplugging the trickle charger, which is always plugged in when the bike is in the garage.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:23 PM   #62690
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Does anyone know if a Set of OEM DRZ-400 SuperMoto Wheels will fit on the DR 650?

boulder
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #62691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
Do it. I just ordered the stock o-rings and they cosy $10+ for the pair and they lasted less than 2 years. Harbor Freight sells an O_RING KIT for about $10 that has 397 o-rings in it and BTW, I just discovered, IT"S ON SALE!!!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/397-pie...ent-67580.html

so what if they don't last, I can switch'em without removing the carb from the bike and fix it for less than 20 cents and save gas from not driving to the dealer. Bet they last as long or longer than stock.
After chatting with Derek @ Moto-Lab, I'm going to check a few more things in the carb and then order what I need from him. My DR isn't going to be road-ready for a few more weekends so there's no rush in trying to get a couple of o-rings sent to me. I might as well get the right stuff the first time around. BTW, those o-rings lasted 20K miles and 15 years. So, they must be made of OK stuff...
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #62692
DirtySumo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
I purchased a Superbrace from Procycle and installed it per instructions. Measuring between the brace and the fender mounting bosses (fender removed) with the front supported off the ground there is 8 1/4 inches of clearance.With the fender installed it would be an inch or so less. My bike is not lowered. The front suspension travel is supposed to be 10.2 inches, so the brace is going to be hitting hard parts long before the fork gets to the end of travel. If you look closely at DirtySumo's picture (post 62853) you can see that there is nothing like 10+ inches of clearance. I have emailed both the maker and Procycle about the problem, but have not yet received a reply, when I do I will post it here.

You are right about the clearance. . . but in all honesty, a person doing knarly offroad will do quite well w/o a brace.
Rock-gardens were comfy on my XR600. . .UNTIL I put a brace on it. I think the flex prevented some stress/torque from transmitting up to my arms. Took them off, and serious rocks for a quater mile were ok again.


If others expect to be bottoming those forks often. .don't use a brace?. Hopefully we get things right and use a fork set-up where 98% of our riding never bottoms out, and that last 2% is us trying to recover from a duffus move I'm so good at. . . . . . . . .then maybe it'll barely touch. For the off-roading my sorry-ass-butt can tolerate at my banged up age. . .8" is plenty. ( no snide comments from the peanut gallery, please.) If I'm having to go airborne for much of the trail ride. . .I'm taking my dedicated single-track battle weapon. Damn, I hurt just THINKING about my battle-weapon. Let's see. . .ahhh, broken back, shattered shoulder, snapped collar bone, two blown knees, cracked ankle, crushed finger, crushed disc at the lower neck. The price of "going faster than the other guy".


No. . . A DR650. . . "enough" wheel travel for a pretty worn out single-track guy. . .The years of going really fast are over for me. I'm going out when I'm still a "Legend in my own mind". . as Dirty Harry said.
Your post is a good heads-up for the more aggressive at heart. (and body). My road-race friends think mo'tards are the scum of asphault, so to them even 8" travel is for wussies. They still buy me pizza & beer, so I deal with it.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:36 PM   #62693
bouldertag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
+1
I can't count how many times in my life I've made-do with 'unknown' material but correct size. . . .AND had to do it all over again after the O ring swelled up or came apart. "Never have time to do it right.. but we always have time to do it over." ( heavy sigh ).

An experiment: attempting to post a pic of my almost finished Dual-Sport Bastard. . . Not a full 'Tard. .not fully Dual. . . .but a REALLY NICE rough-road ride. The 120/90/17 front is sweet on the road.. . .No more worries after 30 miles of trying to loft over an unavoidable pot hole in my line. 120/90/17 Shinko 705.

Note: The '01 Gix silencer has a stock shield mounted on it. Looks stock to LEO when parked.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
DirtySumo. You left the rear rim Stock? And added just the front 17". How is that in the dirt?

boulder
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:09 PM   #62694
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Do it. I just ordered the stock o-rings and they cosy $10+ for the pair and they lasted less than 2 years. Harbor Freight sells an O_RING KIT for about $10 that has 397 o-rings in it and BTW, I just discovered, IT"S ON SALE!!!!

http://www.harborfreight.com/397-pie...ent-67580.html

so what if they don't last, I can switch'em without removing the carb from the bike and fix it for less than 20 cents and save gas from not driving to the dealer. Bet they last as long or longer than stock.
Never mind, the smallest o-ring in the kit is too big. Nice to have the kit for that price though. Just won't fix the float on a BST carb.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:15 PM   #62695
twigsnapper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
If you’re thinking of installing a heavier shock spring rather than replacing the entire shock, here’s my experience.
...
Thanks Lex, hope I can find this post when I get around to doing this. I really hate when camping gear is loaded looking for a spot where the kickstand isn't too long.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:21 PM   #62696
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post

I was having start issues and thought I solved them by cleaning the pilot jet. It went well all day last Sunday, but I had Monday off and went trailriding a second day. The bike wouldn't start the first time I shut it off. I laid it on it's side and had the fuel off. It finally started. The rest of the day, before I shut it off, I turned off the gas. (I have the Raptor petcock) I would let the bike run a bit before killing the motor. I ended up replacing the 2 little o-rings that go on float assy.

I found this post from 10/15/2010. That's how long the o-rings lasted. They were stock Suzuki parts. I wonder if the "STAR*TRON" additive is doing it?
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #62697
bouldertag
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Never mind about my question regarding RMZ moto swap. They are different axle sizes and rotors etc.. wont work without allot of machining.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:58 PM   #62698
malokam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
Never mind about my question regarding RMZ moto swap. They are different axle sizes and rotors etc.. wont work without allot of machining.
Except for a DR350 Rear wheel swap everything else needs machining or finding the right spacers or both.
There is no complete swap without machining involved with the DR.

Popular swaps are... as per my knowledge...
DRZ Swingarm, Forks and wheel swap. (Expensive)
SV650 Swingarm swap for wider supermoto tire in the rear.
RM, RMZ Forks swap for better suspension
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #62699
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
You are right about the clearance. . . but in all honesty, a person doing knarly offroad will do quite well w/o a brace.
t.

I was going to get one thinking "I will never use all the suspension anyway"...yeh right! I had a spare tube zip tied to my front fender (all the way around so the tie was under the fender too) and was riding down a nice dirt road and hit a washed out area about 2 ft deep- 3 ft wide! How I didn't crash is beyond me, but that spare tube went flying from the front tire taking out the zip ties! Made me wonder: would I have crashed with 2" less travel?

Like I tell my wife- Two more inches isn't important until you need it!
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:22 PM   #62700
DirtySumo
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Not This.. orThat

Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
DirtySumo. You left the rear rim Stock? And added just the front 17". How is that in the dirt?

boulder
boulder:
I have a search out for a rear hub to lace a 4.25" to it. That will make my project complete, sorta. Then a 140 rear 705 and a front 120/90/17 705 and my "shitty road" cruiser will be good to go. So far, the STOCK rear 17" rim, and the 17" 2.5" front is darn, darn, darn nice.

But, you asked "Dirt" . . .: a qualified answer. For a hard-pack dirt trail, semi-hard rock debris mine-field, loose rock and dirt, this is as good a set-up the 705's could handle, EVER. So, it's A+ so far.

A steep, soft dirt, moist, DID I MENTION STEEP? . . , it's not good. You'll want knobbies. So far, on all trails where the dirt is hard enough where knobbies can't penetrate and do what knobbies do. . . then, well, knobbies are useless. Square inches of contact with 'Just Enough" bite is good. Think 'Miler Flat Track'. No knobbies at the 120 mph dirt turn entries. Wide fronts. Lots of tall side wall to help conform to the lumps.

You are thinking limited 17" tire selection? Yep. You're spot-on on that one. I choose the 17" because I wanted the absolute TALLEST sidewall available to humankind, and have a tolerable overall diameter.
Nowadays the way I go over larger rocks is bump them, as the front rises, gas it a tad, then up and over. I'm not as good as I used to be. I used to raise the front BEFORE I bumped, and let the rear do the work. I NEED a lot of sidewall up front to prevent rim/tube pinches now. But, I've discovered what I've been missing all these years. I can now be sloppy in the rocks but STILL look AWESOME, riding with seemingly reckless-abandon-skill, leaving my buddies behind on their KTM's, worried about their puny low-profiled skinny tires.

Hmmm, the rear in a 18" would be nice, eh?? Hmmmmmm. And, ok, trying to cut thru with a wide front will suck compared with a 21". . .but, wth. Can't have it all I guess.
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