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Old 04-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #62746
Ride-til-sore!
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
From memory, on the dr, the battery has nothing to do with the ignition system.
So if the battery was stone dead, you could push start the dr just fine.
What! Who wants to play Fred Flintstone! Battery=Key part of ignition system!
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #62747
NJ-Brett
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Getting tired is good for you, you get used to it, then don't get tired any more.
On my dr with upgraded suspension, the weight of the bike only bothered me on big endless whoops, and crashing.
And really, just the crashing. I could slow down for the whoops.

A little lighter bike is easier and more fun, but it does not have the power/torque, or cant be ridden to the dirt, or needs rebuilding every month.

The wr250 would be a better pick for really rough stuff I hear.





Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
sorry guys, i was just feeling down about the experience.

i felt so exhausted and the bike was such a beast on the trail... it's not worth replacing the DR with something else, I just need a trail bike. and then i need a guzzi. then i'll need a street tracker. probably a sport bike........
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:20 PM   #62748
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
What! Who wants to play Fred Flintstone! Battery=Key part of ignition system!
His point is that you can BUMP START your DR650 ... even with a dead battery.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:25 PM   #62749
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I only get 2 seasons out of a battery. When they are marginal, even though they will turn the motor over, they won't fire up. Mine was to the point this spring, that unless I had it on the charger right before I tried starting, it wouldn't start up. New battery, touch the button and it's running. Must need plenty of juice to spin the motor and feed the ignition.
I would do whatever it takes to avoid pushing a DR for 3 hours on hilly single-track!

2 years is terrible. Do you buy good batteries? I buy Yuasa because they seem to be the best, and batteries are 1 thing I don't worry about getting a cheaper alternative. I shop for the best price on the best battery, but not the cheapest battery.

Our bikes stay on a Battery Tender Junior year-round, unless parked away from home. The previous owner said my 2006 had the original battery in it. I bought it in Aug 2011, and it has never missed a beat. I will replace it regardless, if the bike decides to stick around in my garage after this season.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #62750
fizzerfz1
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Location: Woosta county, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Speaking of, what is the best brand to buy? I heard Westco is good?
http://www.techbatterysolutions.com/...Search=PTX9-BS about $45 shipped. with one year warranty.

I bought this same battery from another vendor, almost 3 years and still running strong...
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #62751
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Speaking of, what is the best brand to buy? I heard Westco is good?
I'd buy the Yuasa YTX9-BS

Here is the first vendor I found price is decent:
http://www.atbatt.com/product/23902/...tx9-bs/battery
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jon_l screwed with this post 04-11-2012 at 02:46 PM
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:58 PM   #62752
M1Jeep
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Upgrade your springs...OEM springs are too soft

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
There was a post sometine back or on another forum where the guy was selling his brace because it hit his fender. I haven't mounted my brace yet but will be doing so in about a week. Will try to post if there is a problem of not.

TravelGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
None of the DRs around the shop have a Superbrace installed so I can't take a close look. I haven't ever heard about an interference problem and after reading many thousands of forum posts I believe this is the first time this has been mentioned. I'm interested to know what the manufacturer says but I suggest you get their permission before repeating their private reply to you in a public forum.
I have a Superbrace on my 2005 DR650. It broke my Acerbis supermoto fender after bottoming out a few times. I am 180 LBS without gear and have the IMS 4.9gal tank along with tank panniers (tubes, irons, & small pump inside). I have Ricor Intiminators and was running Eibach .48kg straight rate springs (I think stock is .45kg?), which still is under sprung. I have since upgraded to the big boy .55kg straight rate springs found on the ProCycle website (the item description states it is for aggressive riders). The difference is night & day! The on-road plushness is no longer there but it rides and tracks so much better off-road. The fork eats up the rocks, bumps, and ruts without much notice compared to before.

If you are looking for improved off-road manners and are willing to sacrifice on-road plushness, get yourself some stiffer springs. It will transform your machine into a more dirt-friendly one. It worked for me, YMMV.

Just my .02cents

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Old 04-11-2012, 03:03 PM   #62753
maynard911
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Location: Bisbee AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
I purchased a Superbrace from Procycle and installed it per instructions. Measuring between the brace and the fender mounting bosses (fender removed) with the front supported off the ground there is 8 1/4 inches of clearance.With the fender installed it would be an inch or so less. My bike is not lowered. The front suspension travel is supposed to be 10.2 inches, so the brace is going to be hitting hard parts long before the fork gets to the end of travel. If you look closely at DirtySumo's picture (post 62853) you can see that there is nothing like 10+ inches of clearance. I have emailed both the maker and Procycle about the problem, but have not yet received a reply, when I do I will post it here.
The replies are in.

Superbrace says that they are aware that the travel is somewhat reduced but that in the five years they have been selling them no one has complained about bottoming. They where sorry that I was unhappy with their product and said if there was any problem returning it to the dealer to let them know and they would take care of it.

Procycle also said that they had been selling this product for years and had no complaints. They were very helpful, as always, and arranged for a merchandise return.

After removing the brace and remounting the fender I got out the tape and it looks like there would be about 7 1/4 inches between the brace and the stock fender flange. Then I put a wire tie around the fork tube and went out and did a couple of threshold braking runs from 65 mph. Back at the garage, front end up off the ground, the tie was at 7 3/4 inches. So with the set up I have I would be bottoming. This is with a nice sticky 110/19 Dunlop 607 on good pavement, stock springs, Intiminators, 320mm disc, HH pads, stainless brake line, and a 175 lb rider.

Things could be done to minimize the problem, like trimming the flange on the stock fender, a different fender, increase the oil level in the fork, or put in stiffer springs.
Or maybe it's just me, apparently no one else has any issue with the brace.
O well now I have a $159 Procycle store credit, shouldn't be to hard to decimate that.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:05 PM   #62754
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
add a set of 'motard wheels to your dr650; a 'tarded dr650 makes a pretty sweet sport bike...


doug s.
yeah but do I haf'ta flip my forks??
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:09 PM   #62755
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
http://www.techbatterysolutions.com/...Search=PTX9-BS about $45 shipped. with one year warranty.

I bought this same battery from another vendor, almost 3 years and still running strong...
I just checked my records and I got 3 years outta my last battery. It felt like 2 I guess.
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Member of: AMA, NETRA, Blue Ribbon Coalition, CCCofVT, Berkshire TR, CT Ramblers
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:40 PM   #62756
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
I have a Superbrace on my 2005 DR650. It broke my Acerbis supermoto fender after bottoming out a few times. I am 180 LBS without gear and have the IMS 4.9gal tank along with tank panniers (tubes, irons, & small pump inside). I have Ricor Intiminators and was running Eibach .48kg straight rate springs (I think stock is .45kg?), which still is under sprung. I have since upgraded to the big boy .55kg straight rate springs found on the ProCycle website (the item description states it is for aggressive riders). The difference is night & day! The on-road plushness is no longer there but it rides and tracks so much better off-road. The fork eats up the rocks, bumps, and ruts without much notice compared to before.

If you are looking for improved off-road manners and are willing to sacrifice on-road plushness, get yourself some stiffer springs. It will transform your machine into a more dirt-friendly one. It worked for me, YMMV.
Just my .02cents
Stock Suzuki DR650 front fork spring rate is: .40 kg.

There are lots of variables to getting decent performance out of the forks.
And when your doing the front ... don't neglect the rear. Overall front to rear balance is important.

I've never heard of the .55 kgs. springs. wow! Those are super hunky ... glad they are working for you. But there are lots of other things to do to achieve both good performance On Road and Off Road.

For Off Road, I would try Race Tech Emulators over Ricor's product. Drilling holes in damper tubes can really help you adjust and fine tune your DR650 forks. Also, swapping the little rebound springs Race Tech provide and varying pre load spacer length.

Next, you can vary oil weight (from 5W to 15W) and the oil level in the tubes can be adjusted to suit. These changes give you even more fine tuning to get the forks where you want them.

Obviously, there is always some compromise regarding perfection of both ON and OFF road. But you can get close if you're willing to fiddle a bit and if you KEEP GOOD NOTES .... and have a CONSISTENT test ride routine that you know well.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:48 PM   #62757
heirhead
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Location: On the water in SoCal
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swing arm bolt

Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:26 PM   #62758
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
add a set of 'motard wheels to your dr650; a 'tarded dr650 makes a pretty sweet sport bike...


doug s.
I have to agree with you... I think the frustrated sport bike riders that frequent my favorite set of local twisties would too.... There just doesn't seem to be enough long straight aways back there for them to catch me.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:30 PM   #62759
M1Jeep
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Location: Lakewood, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Stock Suzuki DR650 front fork spring rate is: .40 kg.

There are lots of variables to getting decent performance out of the forks.
And when your doing the front ... don't neglect the rear. Overall front to rear balance is important.

I've never heard of the .55 kgs. springs. wow! Those are super hunky ... glad they are working for you. But there are lots of other things to do to achieve both good performance On Road and Off Road.

For Off Road, I would try Race Tech Emulators over Ricor's product. Drilling holes in damper tubes can really help you adjust and fine tune your DR650 forks. Also, swapping the little rebound springs Race Tech provide and varying pre load spacer length.

Next, you can vary oil weight (from 5W to 15W) and the oil level in the tubes can be adjusted to suit. These changes give you even more fine tuning to get the forks where you want them.

Obviously, there is always some compromise regarding perfection of both ON and OFF road. But you can get close if you're willing to fiddle a bit and if you KEEP GOOD NOTES .... and have a CONSISTENT test ride routine that you know well.
The rear was upgraded over a year ago...Cogent Dynamics and heavier spring. In retrospect, I should have upgraded the suspension first, then farkled it with a muffler, seat, and electronics last. I hear I am not the only one to see the light, late.

Thanks for the info on the RaceTech emulators and oil weights.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #62760
M1Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
I believe you would use a drift to punch it out. Check out the image below...

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