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Old 04-11-2012, 02:03 PM   #62761
maynard911
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Location: Bisbee AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
I purchased a Superbrace from Procycle and installed it per instructions. Measuring between the brace and the fender mounting bosses (fender removed) with the front supported off the ground there is 8 1/4 inches of clearance.With the fender installed it would be an inch or so less. My bike is not lowered. The front suspension travel is supposed to be 10.2 inches, so the brace is going to be hitting hard parts long before the fork gets to the end of travel. If you look closely at DirtySumo's picture (post 62853) you can see that there is nothing like 10+ inches of clearance. I have emailed both the maker and Procycle about the problem, but have not yet received a reply, when I do I will post it here.
The replies are in.

Superbrace says that they are aware that the travel is somewhat reduced but that in the five years they have been selling them no one has complained about bottoming. They where sorry that I was unhappy with their product and said if there was any problem returning it to the dealer to let them know and they would take care of it.

Procycle also said that they had been selling this product for years and had no complaints. They were very helpful, as always, and arranged for a merchandise return.

After removing the brace and remounting the fender I got out the tape and it looks like there would be about 7 1/4 inches between the brace and the stock fender flange. Then I put a wire tie around the fork tube and went out and did a couple of threshold braking runs from 65 mph. Back at the garage, front end up off the ground, the tie was at 7 3/4 inches. So with the set up I have I would be bottoming. This is with a nice sticky 110/19 Dunlop 607 on good pavement, stock springs, Intiminators, 320mm disc, HH pads, stainless brake line, and a 175 lb rider.

Things could be done to minimize the problem, like trimming the flange on the stock fender, a different fender, increase the oil level in the fork, or put in stiffer springs.
Or maybe it's just me, apparently no one else has any issue with the brace.
O well now I have a $159 Procycle store credit, shouldn't be to hard to decimate that.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #62762
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
add a set of 'motard wheels to your dr650; a 'tarded dr650 makes a pretty sweet sport bike...


doug s.
yeah but do I haf'ta flip my forks??
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #62763
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
http://www.techbatterysolutions.com/...Search=PTX9-BS about $45 shipped. with one year warranty.

I bought this same battery from another vendor, almost 3 years and still running strong...
I just checked my records and I got 3 years outta my last battery. It felt like 2 I guess.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #62764
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
I have a Superbrace on my 2005 DR650. It broke my Acerbis supermoto fender after bottoming out a few times. I am 180 LBS without gear and have the IMS 4.9gal tank along with tank panniers (tubes, irons, & small pump inside). I have Ricor Intiminators and was running Eibach .48kg straight rate springs (I think stock is .45kg?), which still is under sprung. I have since upgraded to the big boy .55kg straight rate springs found on the ProCycle website (the item description states it is for aggressive riders). The difference is night & day! The on-road plushness is no longer there but it rides and tracks so much better off-road. The fork eats up the rocks, bumps, and ruts without much notice compared to before.

If you are looking for improved off-road manners and are willing to sacrifice on-road plushness, get yourself some stiffer springs. It will transform your machine into a more dirt-friendly one. It worked for me, YMMV.
Just my .02cents
Stock Suzuki DR650 front fork spring rate is: .40 kg.

There are lots of variables to getting decent performance out of the forks.
And when your doing the front ... don't neglect the rear. Overall front to rear balance is important.

I've never heard of the .55 kgs. springs. wow! Those are super hunky ... glad they are working for you. But there are lots of other things to do to achieve both good performance On Road and Off Road.

For Off Road, I would try Race Tech Emulators over Ricor's product. Drilling holes in damper tubes can really help you adjust and fine tune your DR650 forks. Also, swapping the little rebound springs Race Tech provide and varying pre load spacer length.

Next, you can vary oil weight (from 5W to 15W) and the oil level in the tubes can be adjusted to suit. These changes give you even more fine tuning to get the forks where you want them.

Obviously, there is always some compromise regarding perfection of both ON and OFF road. But you can get close if you're willing to fiddle a bit and if you KEEP GOOD NOTES .... and have a CONSISTENT test ride routine that you know well.
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:48 PM   #62765
heirhead
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swing arm bolt

Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:26 PM   #62766
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
add a set of 'motard wheels to your dr650; a 'tarded dr650 makes a pretty sweet sport bike...


doug s.
I have to agree with you... I think the frustrated sport bike riders that frequent my favorite set of local twisties would too.... There just doesn't seem to be enough long straight aways back there for them to catch me.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:30 PM   #62767
M1Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Stock Suzuki DR650 front fork spring rate is: .40 kg.

There are lots of variables to getting decent performance out of the forks.
And when your doing the front ... don't neglect the rear. Overall front to rear balance is important.

I've never heard of the .55 kgs. springs. wow! Those are super hunky ... glad they are working for you. But there are lots of other things to do to achieve both good performance On Road and Off Road.

For Off Road, I would try Race Tech Emulators over Ricor's product. Drilling holes in damper tubes can really help you adjust and fine tune your DR650 forks. Also, swapping the little rebound springs Race Tech provide and varying pre load spacer length.

Next, you can vary oil weight (from 5W to 15W) and the oil level in the tubes can be adjusted to suit. These changes give you even more fine tuning to get the forks where you want them.

Obviously, there is always some compromise regarding perfection of both ON and OFF road. But you can get close if you're willing to fiddle a bit and if you KEEP GOOD NOTES .... and have a CONSISTENT test ride routine that you know well.
The rear was upgraded over a year ago...Cogent Dynamics and heavier spring. In retrospect, I should have upgraded the suspension first, then farkled it with a muffler, seat, and electronics last. I hear I am not the only one to see the light, late.

Thanks for the info on the RaceTech emulators and oil weights.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:46 PM   #62768
M1Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
I believe you would use a drift to punch it out. Check out the image below...

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Old 04-11-2012, 03:46 PM   #62769
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Speaking of, what is the best brand to buy? I heard Westco is good?
I use Deka batteries made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:51 PM   #62770
Harpua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'd guess lack of technique regards bump starting. Off road, bumping is a learned skill ... and having assistance helps. I would never push that bike ... that is insane. Tow Rope, Foot peg push, anything but you pushing. Get it running. You do realize the DR650 will bump start and run fine ... even with a dead battery?
I tried bump starting it at least a dozen times in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. I got it once, but I had popped the clutch so late that I had to crash to avoid a tree. Then it died.

The guy I was with was a much more experienced rider, and he even tried to bump start it. No dice. Oh well... it was a lesson to be sure. Thanks for the sympathy.



ps-what is a foot peg push?
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:55 PM   #62771
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
The rear was upgraded over a year ago...Cogent Dynamics and heavier spring. In retrospect, I should have upgraded the suspension first, then farkled it with a muffler, seat, and electronics last. I hear I am not the only one to see the light, late.

Thanks for the info on the RaceTech emulators and oil weights.
I got the Cogent rear shock and heavier spring and Rick recommended that I replace the springs up front at the same time. I asked about the emulators and intiminators and he said basically the same thing. Street riders like the way the intiminators hold the front up under braking, but off road you can get them confused. He recommended the emulators and I've been really happy with them. Having the suspension set up for me was the BEST mod I did (followed closely by the FCR!) and I highly recommend it. The feel off road and on gravel and washboards is a night and day improvement to me.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:18 PM   #62772
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
yeah but do I haf'ta flip my forks??
no, you don't have to go to usd front forks to make a motard out of a dr650, but it couldn't hurt! and, from what i understand, if you really wanna do serious off-road, the improvement for off-roading would likely be even more than for street.

a suzuki rm-series usd front end is pretty-much plug-n-play on a dr650. the triples/bearings match right up. for ~$300 shipped, i got a complete rm front end, including handlebars, wheel, axle, etc. then, i splurged for upgraded racetech rm springs. i needed the rm hub/axle to lace the sm wheel/spokes that were already on the stock front end of my dr650. not a bad deal, all things considered. and, if i ever sell the stock front end, with axle/hub/spokes; & rim from the rm which will lace right up, (i did sell the brake disc), i will recoup some of the costs...

doug s.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #62773
Putzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
I just did mine a couple weeks ago, and did not need to take out any bolts from the linkage. I removed the seat, and airbox. Lifted the bike on my jack stand. Propped up the rear wheel on some wood, to take the weight of the wheel and swing arm off the shock. Then unscrewed the bolt at the top and bottom of the shock. Then just lifted it up out of the frame, through the hole where the airbox was located. Really easy to remove and reinstall this way. No loose nuts either, as both bolts thread into the clevis on the other side of the mount.

On my other bike (Yamaha FZ1), there is a nut and bolt at top and bottom. and it is darn near impossible to hold a wrench on one side while loosening the other side with just one person. DR is much, much easier.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:42 PM   #62774
TaZ9
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Ya got me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Cynic.

Ohhhhhh, lookie here: Krusty's DR650SE INDEX. The idea is to keep the daily drivel here, on the DR650 Thread. The INDEX is meant for answers, not questions: "The Good Stuff".

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

ER70S-2,

We should ride together sometime. You could teach me how to be a little less cynical, and I could teach you how to change a motorcyle tire without pinching the tube, or should I say tubes?
OOPS... There I go Again!!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720492

Ride Safe,

Taz9
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:09 PM   #62775
UberKul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
ps-what is a foot peg push?
An exercise in mutual trust, cooperation and balance.
Buddy rides along side and pushes you with his foot on your foot peg, rear rack or whetever to get you down the road. Pushed a guy 12 miles once (mostly downhill), leg felt like a limp noodle for a day or so.
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