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Old 04-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #62761
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Speaking of, what is the best brand to buy? I heard Westco is good?
I use Deka batteries made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf
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Dirtly: 2009 Suzuki DR650SE Road Sofa: 2001 Yamaha (ad)Venture 1300
Dirtlier: 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Old Sport: 1979 Suzuki GS1000E

1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:51 PM   #62762
Harpua
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'd guess lack of technique regards bump starting. Off road, bumping is a learned skill ... and having assistance helps. I would never push that bike ... that is insane. Tow Rope, Foot peg push, anything but you pushing. Get it running. You do realize the DR650 will bump start and run fine ... even with a dead battery?
I tried bump starting it at least a dozen times in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. I got it once, but I had popped the clutch so late that I had to crash to avoid a tree. Then it died.

The guy I was with was a much more experienced rider, and he even tried to bump start it. No dice. Oh well... it was a lesson to be sure. Thanks for the sympathy.



ps-what is a foot peg push?
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:55 PM   #62763
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
The rear was upgraded over a year ago...Cogent Dynamics and heavier spring. In retrospect, I should have upgraded the suspension first, then farkled it with a muffler, seat, and electronics last. I hear I am not the only one to see the light, late.

Thanks for the info on the RaceTech emulators and oil weights.
I got the Cogent rear shock and heavier spring and Rick recommended that I replace the springs up front at the same time. I asked about the emulators and intiminators and he said basically the same thing. Street riders like the way the intiminators hold the front up under braking, but off road you can get them confused. He recommended the emulators and I've been really happy with them. Having the suspension set up for me was the BEST mod I did (followed closely by the FCR!) and I highly recommend it. The feel off road and on gravel and washboards is a night and day improvement to me.
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Dirtly: 2009 Suzuki DR650SE Road Sofa: 2001 Yamaha (ad)Venture 1300
Dirtlier: 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Old Sport: 1979 Suzuki GS1000E

1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #62764
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
yeah but do I haf'ta flip my forks??
no, you don't have to go to usd front forks to make a motard out of a dr650, but it couldn't hurt! and, from what i understand, if you really wanna do serious off-road, the improvement for off-roading would likely be even more than for street.

a suzuki rm-series usd front end is pretty-much plug-n-play on a dr650. the triples/bearings match right up. for ~$300 shipped, i got a complete rm front end, including handlebars, wheel, axle, etc. then, i splurged for upgraded racetech rm springs. i needed the rm hub/axle to lace the sm wheel/spokes that were already on the stock front end of my dr650. not a bad deal, all things considered. and, if i ever sell the stock front end, with axle/hub/spokes; & rim from the rm which will lace right up, (i did sell the brake disc), i will recoup some of the costs...

doug s.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #62765
Putzy
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Cocoa Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Sorry I couldn't find this! Switching shock spring. Does the bolt to the swing arm and link unscrew or do you use a drift to get it out after taking nut off? Have Kouba instructions but it does not say.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Heirhead
I just did mine a couple weeks ago, and did not need to take out any bolts from the linkage. I removed the seat, and airbox. Lifted the bike on my jack stand. Propped up the rear wheel on some wood, to take the weight of the wheel and swing arm off the shock. Then unscrewed the bolt at the top and bottom of the shock. Then just lifted it up out of the frame, through the hole where the airbox was located. Really easy to remove and reinstall this way. No loose nuts either, as both bolts thread into the clevis on the other side of the mount.

On my other bike (Yamaha FZ1), there is a nut and bolt at top and bottom. and it is darn near impossible to hold a wrench on one side while loosening the other side with just one person. DR is much, much easier.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:42 PM   #62766
TaZ9
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Location: Northern Colorado
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Ya got me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Cynic.

Ohhhhhh, lookie here: Krusty's DR650SE INDEX. The idea is to keep the daily drivel here, on the DR650 Thread. The INDEX is meant for answers, not questions: "The Good Stuff".

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

ER70S-2,

We should ride together sometime. You could teach me how to be a little less cynical, and I could teach you how to change a motorcyle tire without pinching the tube, or should I say tubes?
OOPS... There I go Again!!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720492

Ride Safe,

Taz9
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:09 PM   #62767
UberKul
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Wilseyville, CA
Oddometer: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
ps-what is a foot peg push?
An exercise in mutual trust, cooperation and balance.
Buddy rides along side and pushes you with his foot on your foot peg, rear rack or whetever to get you down the road. Pushed a guy 12 miles once (mostly downhill), leg felt like a limp noodle for a day or so.
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:58 PM   #62768
appalachian
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Location: southeast T.N.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
no, you don't have to go to usd front forks to make a motard out of a dr650, but it couldn't hurt! and, from what i understand, if you really wanna do serious off-road, the improvement for off-roading would likely be even more than for street.

a suzuki rm-series usd front end is pretty-much plug-n-play on a dr650. the triples/bearings match right up. for ~$300 shipped, i got a complete rm front end, including handlebars, wheel, axle, etc. then, i splurged for upgraded racetech rm springs. i needed the rm hub/axle to lace the sm wheel/spokes that were already on the stock front end of my dr650. not a bad deal, all things considered. and, if i ever sell the stock front end, with axle/hub/spokes; & rim from the rm which will lace right up, (i did sell the brake disc), i will recoup some of the costs...

doug s.
But to use the forks for dual sport riding is ther any work that needs to done ?? or will the brake disk, lines & wheels trade out as well ??
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:32 PM   #62769
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by TaZ9 View Post
ER70S-2,

We should ride together sometime. You could teach me how to be a little less cynical, and I could teach you how to change a motorcyle tire without pinching the tube, or should I say tubes?
OOPS... There I go Again!!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720492

Ride Safe,

Taz9
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:37 PM   #62770
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 619
Not sure what the other person has. I have SuperBrace from Procycle so I will be installing in about 8 or 10 days. Will report on any clearence problems then.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Was it the superbrace or the RSW brace? The RSW brace will interfere with the fender much easier than the superbrace.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:44 PM   #62771
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appalachian View Post
But to use the forks for dual sport riding is there any work that needs to done ?? or will the brake disk, lines & wheels trade out as well ??
If you mean DR650 parts to RMZ/RM/DRZ-SM forks then only the DR brake line is plug and play.
If you reverse the axle,machine a collar with a M 16 (iirc) thread,turn down the DR rotor OD combined with a DR kit 320 mm caliper adapter and a few other things I might have forgotten then Yes.

The main hurdle is the USD forks take a 20 mm axle and the DR's is 17 mm.
The 290 mm DR brake rotor (and wheel) will not work as although the RMZ/RM has the same caliper as the DR650,the mount lugs are in different positions between the two forks,only the 320 mm adapter will get you close and then you still need to reduce the DR rotor OD. (unless you use the 320 mm rotor kit complete)

I did all that but at the end of the day using the parent wheel and axle makes it a simple bolt in.

This might be the only DR / RMZ mix in existence and even I am swapping to all RMZ wheel parts.

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ADV8 screwed with this post 04-11-2012 at 07:52 PM
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:54 PM   #62772
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,307
Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
no, you don't have to go to usd front forks to make a motard out of a dr650, but it couldn't hurt! and, from what i understand, if you really wanna do serious off-road, the improvement for off-roading would likely be even more than for street.

a suzuki rm-series usd front end is pretty-much plug-n-play on a dr650. the triples/bearings match right up. for ~$300 shipped, i got a complete rm front end, including handlebars, wheel, axle, etc. then, i splurged for upgraded racetech rm springs. i needed the rm hub/axle to lace the sm wheel/spokes that were already on the stock front end of my dr650. not a bad deal, all things considered. and, if i ever sell the stock front end, with axle/hub/spokes; & rim from the rm which will lace right up, (i did sell the brake disc), i will recoup some of the costs...

doug s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by appalachian View Post
But to use the forks for dual sport riding is there any work that needs to done ?? or will the brake disk, lines & wheels trade out as well ??
my stock dr650 caliper worked plug-n-play w/the rm disc that was on the rm hub. if i had wanted to use the stock rm 21" rim that was laced to the rm hub instead of installing my sm wheel, i don't see any reason why it would not have worked. but, you should know, the stock rm rim is ~0.2" narrower than the dr650 rim, even tho they both can use the same size tires...

doug s.

ps - i have a complete dr650 front end in good condition, including protaper fat bars, and said rm 21" wheel which needs lacing to the included spokes and hub, if anyone wants to make me an offer. no brake disc, and steering head bearings needed, tho...
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:55 PM   #62773
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
I tried bump starting it at least a dozen times in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. I got it once, but I had popped the clutch so late that I had to crash to avoid a tree. Then it died.

The guy I was with was a much more experienced rider, and he even tried to bump start it. No dice. Oh well... it was a lesson to be sure. Thanks for the sympathy. ps-what is a foot peg push?
Bump starting on loose terrain can be tough ... hills really help! Deep sand? Mud? Almost impossible. Experience and technique required for off road bumping. I've been doing it a while ... only wish I was younger and stronger, not easy for old guys.

Foot pegging is kind of experts only area. Two bikes get side by side, pusher uses right foot on dead bike's left peg, pusher must lock out knee.
They must stay close, nearly touching, and be in sync.
NOTE: This is NOT SAFE. Very tough to do off road ... but I've seen it done in Baja. On the road it's easier ... and maniacs I ride with have done it at 100 mph through Nevada on ZX11's for 50 miles. Long legs really help. (that leaves me out!)
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #62774
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
If you mean DR650 parts to RMZ/RM/DRZ-SM forks then only the DR brake line is plug and play.
If you reverse the axle,machine a collar with a M 16 (iirc) thread,turn down the DR rotor OD combined with a DR kit 320 mm caliper adapter and a few other things I might have forgotten then Yes.

The main hurdle is the USD forks take a 20 mm axle and the DR's is 17 mm.
The 290 mm DR brake rotor (and wheel) will not work as although the RMZ/RM has the same caliper as the DR650,the mount lugs are in different positions between the two forks,only the 320 mm adapter will get you close and then you still need to reduce the DR rotor OD. (unless you use the 320 mm rotor kit complete)

I did all that but at the end of the day using the parent wheel and axle makes it a simple bolt in.

This might be the only DR / RMZ mix in existence and even I am swapping to all RMZ wheel parts.

if you want to put an rm front end on a dr650, certainly buy an rm front wheel/axle assembly! this is what i did, and then it is plug-n-play, as i stated... and the dr caliper worked w/o any issues on the rm hub/brake rotor...

a possible further future mod for me could be the rm-series 320 disc w/relocation bracket. $189 shipped on ebay; includes 5mm thick rotor...

doug s.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:43 PM   #62775
zdiver1
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Thumb The more I ride it the more I like it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by josdavlar View Post
So I went for a ride Monday on some kinda gnarly, sometimes rocky, tight singletrack. No doubt I'm still new to this whole dirtbike thing, but wrestling my DR was a bear.

It didn't help that my battery died for unexplained reasons, and I had to push this 400lb-ish beast 1/2 mile up and down this gnarliness (~3 hrs pushin'). Bump starting was a no-go on at least a dozen tries.

So, do you guys even bother riding this stuff with the DR? I'm feeling like I need something in the 250-400cc range for this stuff... and a kick start. The DR just feels like it's too heavy, too big and not enough suspension travel (I bottomed out many times).

:(

Sent from a little black box.
When I got this DR I was aware it was not a Dirt bike if I wanted to go into the desert and off-road I would have bought a jeep or a 4x4 quad, what I was looking for was a two wheel SUV to drive out to the desert do some dirt roads and dive home.
I had a XT250 this bike was great offroad but slow getting to the dirt, I gave it to my son he loves it but when we go riding I am doing a lot of waiting.
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