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Old 04-11-2012, 09:09 PM   #62761
carcajou
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 101
Mount for Montana GPS

I attempted to search for the answer to this question. I know it has been discussed here before. i could not find it with my search. So please bare with me. I need to mount my Montana GPS to my handlebars. They are 1 inch diameter bars. I do not intend to power the GPS off of my DRs electrical system but rather will charge a set of batteries with a charger in my luggage. So what are you guys using for mounting systems?
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:24 PM   #62762
ER70S-2
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http://www.ram-mount.com/
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:28 PM   #62763
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Dude you are preaching to one member of the choir.
ya, i know you get it, but your answer may have been a little confusing to appalachian, who asked me what else needed to be changed to do the swap-out...

doug s.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:00 PM   #62764
DirtySumo
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Location: Sacto' Between Stonyford & Forest Hill "Meca"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
The replies are in.

Superbrace says that they are aware that the travel is somewhat reduced but that in the five years they have been selling them no one has complained about bottoming. They where sorry that I was unhappy with their product and said if there was any problem returning it to the dealer to let them know and they would take care of it.

Procycle also said that they had been selling this product for years and had no complaints. They were very helpful, as always, and arranged for a merchandise return.

After removing the brace and remounting the fender I got out the tape and it looks like there would be about 7 1/4 inches between the brace and the stock fender flange. Then I put a wire tie around the fork tube and went out and did a couple of threshold braking runs from 65 mph. Back at the garage, front end up off the ground, the tie was at 7 3/4 inches. So with the set up I have I would be bottoming. This is with a nice sticky 110/19 Dunlop 607 on good pavement, stock springs, Intiminators, 320mm disc, HH pads, stainless brake line, and a 175 lb rider.

Things could be done to minimize the problem, like trimming the flange on the stock fender, a different fender, increase the oil level in the fork, or put in stiffer springs.
Or maybe it's just me, apparently no one else has any issue with the brace.
O well now I have a $159 Procycle store credit, shouldn't be to hard to decimate that.

Yep. . .you shouldn't use the brace. I agree. Like those other gents have even mentioned, DO SPRINGS, do whole forks ?, do valves,. . .do shock also, same time. Make them match so no dolphin po-go's happen. A-Grf mentioned it but I don't know if anyone was really taking note. Make 'em match. It's a whole bike, not just a front.

If a person DOES do a brace, by all means, cut a 2" notch at the upper fender flange to clear the brace. You'll get another 2" there. Nobody should think a brace keeps you from a crappy front end. No, that's your bank account.
ProCycle and others can get you going in the right direction, then "sky's the limit." You WILL loose maybe an inch and small change of travel. But if people are slamming into the stops NOW. .shame on them. That should rarely ever, ever,ever happen with a proper set-up. It is reserved in all areas of racing for the HolySh*ts moment, which should NOT happen. How does a moto-dude come down from a triple or looong double and not slam his forks to hell? A set-up that prevents bottom-out. . .sort of an accelerated stop. Drop some coin here. $$. I have my Battle Weapon that I don't ride much anymore. No bottoming. I've tried to ,according to my doctor. Many times.

What concerns me tho, being a near geezer with, according to my records, over 10,000 single track miles, AND near 600,000 road miles ( a loooooong twisty road, btw) . . . . . . .is that some guys out there could benefit from a brace.
Hey, I'm much slower now, I don't like Satan's friggin inline road grooves/cracks. I spend 98% of my time on tar. I have broken probably every catagory of bone to break. I have a lot of front tire/tar grip. I'm the guy with a 120/90/17 front tire 705 Shinko. I've got braided lines and I have friends that are NOT happy that I've gone semi-motard. Why?
Ask that "doug s" guy. . . heh heh .. .he's got a friggin SWEEEET set-up for pissin' racer boy off. Geese, I'd know. After 600 laps around Laguna Seca . maybe near that of SEARS POINT ( I refuse to call it INFIN******* whatever)
My point is he's got inverted forks. Braces ??? "He Don't Need No Stinkin' Braces"

I'm a pretty good road guy. But, trust me , a pretty good road guy on a motard is untouchable to a liked-skilled road guy on his favorite sportbike, in any canyon. I do Nor-Cal, and when a skilled 'tard guy shows up it's a pleasure to watch. OOOooooo, wait, heh heh heh. . .I've got a semi-'tard now. ! wooohooo.
So, if tar wiggles freak you out I'd like to see guys figure something out, however, but do something. Don't let a brace scare you. Trim a fender. Have 9" of travel. Call ProCycle. Do springs F&Rear, do valves. Go shopping.
You'll live longer maybe. We'll certainly have fun then.
I hurt, time for my meds'.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:14 AM   #62765
Eddieb
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Location: The Tron, New Zealand
Oddometer: 974
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
If you mean DR650 parts to RMZ/RM/DRZ-SM forks then only the DR brake line is plug and play.
If you reverse the axle,machine a collar with a M 16 (iirc) thread,turn down the DR rotor OD combined with a DR kit 320 mm caliper adapter and a few other things I might have forgotten then Yes.

The main hurdle is the USD forks take a 20 mm axle and the DR's is 17 mm.
The 290 mm DR brake rotor (and wheel) will not work as although the RMZ/RM has the same caliper as the DR650,the mount lugs are in different positions between the two forks,only the 320 mm adapter will get you close and then you still need to reduce the DR rotor OD. (unless you use the 320 mm rotor kit complete)

I did all that but at the end of the day using the parent wheel and axle makes it a simple bolt in.

This might be the only DR / RMZ mix in existence and even I am swapping to all RMZ wheel parts.

The early 90's RM USD stuff is almost plug and play. RM/RMX91-95/96 USD uses the same stem, bearings, and 17mm axle. The caliper is the same but the disc is 250mm so you either need to use the RM disc, not sure about the wheel, or get a spacer made up for the caliper.

If you get an RMX front end of that era it even has the speedo drive, and has threads in the top clamp to mount the speedo. The one I have even has a ignition thread, but it doesn't line up with the DR ignition.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:37 AM   #62766
Rugby4life
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Location: Upstate SC (GSP area)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
An exercise in mutual trust, cooperation and balance.
Buddy rides along side and pushes you with his foot on your foot peg, rear rack or whetever to get you down the road. Pushed a guy 12 miles once (mostly downhill), leg felt like a limp noodle for a day or so.
Or a quick way to go viral on youtube
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:03 AM   #62767
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 9,135
One trick I use for bump starting is if your battery has even a little life, push the starter button at the same time up pop the clutch. That tiny bit of energy left in the battery helps turn the motor.

(you have to have eliminated the clutch safety circuit for this to work)
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:23 AM   #62768
Jammin
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Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore! View Post
Holy crap! Very cool but people complain about drivers on their cell phones! How does he operate all that stuff going down the road and where is the lap top!
Hey, the only I operate when on the move is the GPS and that too not much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
I'm guessing Jay isn't flippin' switches on the move. Check his site to see where he rides and I'm not sure it matters most of the time. Pretty interesting build - solar charger and all.
Yeah, the switches are for lights, switching between Stebel and stock horn, etc and easy to operate on the move.

Happy to report that no real issues with my electrical system on this whole trip (45,000 miles, so far)
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:46 AM   #62769
FatChance
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Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcajou View Post
I attempted to search for the answer to this question. I know it has been discussed here before. i could not find it with my search. So please bare with me. I need to mount my Montana GPS to my handlebars. They are 1 inch diameter bars. I do not intend to power the GPS off of my DRs electrical system but rather will charge a set of batteries with a charger in my luggage. So what are you guys using for mounting systems?
The Garmin Rugged Mount is by far the best and under $35. Get a RAM U-bolt ball mount to attach to the bars, a RAM short arm and a RAM AMPS ball mount to attach to the Rugged Mount. Check the Garmin Montana thread in Laying down tracks. You do not have to connect the power wire, but I don't know why you wouldn't want to?

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Old 04-12-2012, 01:24 PM   #62770
Aerocycle
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Location: Oregon (The valley)
Oddometer: 233
rack

FWIW, if anyone has a used/extra rack for the dr650 and you want to get rid of it, I am in the market. Please PM me .
Thanks!!!
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:03 PM   #62771
The Rizz
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Location: Golden, CO
Oddometer: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by riderskate View Post
Low budget luggage rack complete. For a total of $30.00. The Action packer and rack extension for the tent can be used in any combination.












Did you just drill straight through the ActionPacker? Anybody else got creative ideas for a cheap topbox or want to sell me one for cheap??
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:12 PM   #62772
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,530
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaZ9 View Post
ER70S-2,

We should ride together sometime. You could teach me how to be a little less cynical, and I could teach you how to change a motorcyle tire without pinching the tube, or should I say tubes?
OOPS... There I go Again!!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720492

Ride Safe,

Taz9
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I think we should all chip in and buy ER70S-2 a trail jack, it was sad seeing his DR laying down so many times.

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Old 04-12-2012, 04:31 PM   #62773
Mobiker
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Location: Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Rizz View Post
Did you just drill straight through the ActionPacker? Anybody else got creative ideas for a cheap topbox or want to sell me one for cheap??
Way back in the goodle days I used an ActionPacker as a topbox on my Alaska trip. I put some steal splice strips I got at the local hardware under the rack and in the box and bolted straight through. It worked fine for 8000 miles to AK and back.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:34 PM   #62774
shaddix
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Central AL
Oddometer: 647
So my stock pilot jet came in...... it also says 52 pi on it !!! So I just bought the same damn jet I already had..... Now tell me why I can't make it run rough by turning the idle mixture screw if the pilot jet is stock??
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:36 PM   #62775
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtySumo View Post
Yep. . .you shouldn't use the brace. I agree. Like those other gents have even mentioned, DO SPRINGS, do whole forks ?, do valves,. . .do shock also, same time. Make them match so no dolphin po-go's happen. A-Grf mentioned it but I don't know if anyone was really taking note. Make 'em match. It's a whole bike, not just a front.

If a person DOES do a brace, by all means, cut a 2" notch at the upper fender flange to clear the brace. You'll get another 2" there. Nobody should think a brace keeps you from a crappy front end. No, that's your bank account.
ProCycle and others can get you going in the right direction, then "sky's the limit." You WILL loose maybe an inch and small change of travel. But if people are slamming into the stops NOW. .shame on them. That should rarely ever, ever,ever happen with a proper set-up. It is reserved in all areas of racing for the HolySh*ts moment, which should NOT happen. How does a moto-dude come down from a triple or looong double and not slam his forks to hell? A set-up that prevents bottom-out. . .sort of an accelerated stop. Drop some coin here. $$. I have my Battle Weapon that I don't ride much anymore. No bottoming. I've tried to ,according to my doctor. Many times.

What concerns me tho, being a near geezer with, according to my records, over 10,000 single track miles, AND near 600,000 road miles ( a loooooong twisty road, btw) . . . . . . .is that some guys out there could benefit from a brace.
Hey, I'm much slower now, I don't like Satan's friggin inline road grooves/cracks. I spend 98% of my time on tar. I have broken probably every catagory of bone to break. I have a lot of front tire/tar grip. I'm the guy with a 120/90/17 front tire 705 Shinko. I've got braided lines and I have friends that are NOT happy that I've gone semi-motard. Why?
Ask that "doug s" guy. . . heh heh .. .he's got a friggin SWEEEET set-up for pissin' racer boy off. Geese, I'd know. After 600 laps around Laguna Seca . maybe near that of SEARS POINT ( I refuse to call it INFIN******* whatever)
My point is he's got inverted forks. Braces ??? "He Don't Need No Stinkin' Braces"

I'm a pretty good road guy. But, trust me , a pretty good road guy on a motard is untouchable to a liked-skilled road guy on his favorite sportbike, in any canyon. I do Nor-Cal, and when a skilled 'tard guy shows up it's a pleasure to watch. OOOooooo, wait, heh heh heh. . .I've got a semi-'tard now. ! wooohooo.
So, if tar wiggles freak you out I'd like to see guys figure something out, however, but do something. Don't let a brace scare you. Trim a fender. Have 9" of travel. Call ProCycle. Do springs F&Rear, do valves. Go shopping.
You'll live longer maybe. We'll certainly have fun then.
I hurt, time for my meds'.
I think I'll pass, I'm not a near geezer, I'm a geezer. My bike is my daily transportation an I don't want to set it up for some extreme and then suffer with an overly stiff bike 99% of the time. My current front set up is very nice, plush, but well controlled.
Cut 2" out of the flange on the stock fender and you may find that already flexy item folded over and suck in the wheel.
Whatever, different strokes for different folks, it's all good as long as it works for you.
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