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Old 04-14-2012, 02:55 PM   #62851
blk-betty
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Oddometer: 2,470
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
The small end plugs into the wheel bearing seal, the large end against the fork.

Thanks man!

That is what "I thought' and how I reassembled it.

Now that I'm back home I'll loosen the the axle and clamp nuts and torque all to spec.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:56 PM   #62852
darmahman
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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BikeMaster 6000K HID install

Anybody put one of these on their DR? Any tricks?
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #62853
justscoutin
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Tennessee, Chattanooga
Oddometer: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post


This is an old pic not long after I got the bike. Nice tires. I have a new set in the garage to go on when my 705s wear out.

Rob

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks Rob, those look better to me than the 705's. Are they louder or quieter than the 705's? I'm running t63's now and they are too noisy since I mostly run street, but don' t want to give up the gravel road ability. I like the look of the 700's.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:34 PM   #62854
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Purchased my 2009 DR used in January with an oil drip @ the shift lever. The seal had popped loose and that was an easy fix.

After I fixed the shift lever seal, the engine started weeping higher up. I narrowed it down this morning to a leak originating from the circled spot in the photo.



I've tried tightening the screws with an allen wrench (very difficult to get to) but it is still weeping.

Can someone tell me what this thing is/does and why it is on my engine?. No clue at all and no luck locating an engine diagram that tells me.

Also wondering if this is a common leak area and if there are any suggestions for how to stop the leak.

I've searched and must not be searching in the right places cause I'm striking out on finding the information I need.

- Thanks-

This will be an invaluable tool in your tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B002PN4IZS
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:41 PM   #62855
Nibis
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Troy, Mo.
Oddometer: 844
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Hah...Oh boy.

I just jumped in and removed the bolts that hold it on, then it popped out on its own...all this on an incline in my driveway.

Should have found a procedure first. I'm guessing I created a problem for myself.

But sure enough the gasket is torn under the housing, clearly no amount of tightening of the mount screws would have stopped the leak.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Now to see if I can put it back together.

Please make sure you retract it before bolting it back in. I didn't even use a new gasket, used Permatex Moto Seal 1, awesome stuff, I highly recommend
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:42 PM   #62856
poppawheelie
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Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 564
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Not my bike, but the side cases look like Givi E21's (21 L).
GIVI used to (still does?) call those "cruiser cases." I know they still make them, because a friend just bought a set for a new BMW. I can vouch for them. Over 10 years ago I dropped a Sportster on one at 65 mph on the Interstate. It did a great job of protecting the bike, and I'm still using that case... on the DR. It's beat and ugly, been down a few more times in the dirt, but still doesn't leak.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:47 PM   #62857
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
After removing the brace and remounting the fender I got out the tape and it looks like there would be about 7 1/4 inches between the brace and the stock fender flange. Then I put a wire tie around the fork tube and went out and did a couple of threshold braking runs from 65 mph. Back at the garage, front end up off the ground, the tie was at 7 3/4 inches. So with the set up I have I would be bottoming. This is with a nice sticky 110/19 Dunlop 607 on good pavement, stock springs, Intiminators, 320mm disc, HH pads, stainless brake line, and a 175 lb rider.
You were bottoming the front under braking, with Intiminators?
I can't even get close.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:48 PM   #62858
thinairflyer
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Location: Westcliffe, CO
Oddometer: 161
Cam chain tensioner ___ short story

The cam chain tensioner is automatic in keeping tension on the cam chain. You MUST NOT just get a new gasket and install the tensioner without first retracting the plunger that sticks out. If you do, the cam chain will be far too tight resulting in damage to the chain and possibly other engine parts. This has happened to many inexperienced mechanics.....

Some cam chain tensioners have a ratchet type mechanisn to keep the chain tight such as some of the Suzuki SV650s which must be reset before installation. I think the DR650 has the screw type where you must wind a spring with the screw under the bolt on the outside end of the tensioner and hold it wound until the tensioner is installed and the mounting bolts are tight. Then you release the screw and the spring sets the position of the plunger.

L D
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:50 PM   #62859
Flashback
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Mariana Islands via Raleigh, NC
Oddometer: 3,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibis View Post
Please make sure you retract it before bolting it back in. I didn't even use a new gasket, used Permatex Moto Seal 1, awesome stuff, I highly recommend
Suzuki was closed by the time I got there so no new gasket. Permatex it was then. Put everything back together. Made sure to retract the screw but did not check TDC. Yes the DR has the screw that must be held in place to keep it retracted...made it a bit interesting (felt like I had 3 hands there for a little while) but I found an easy way to tighten the hex bolts while keeping the screw retracted by grinding the tip of any old flat blade screwdriver down till it fit perfectly into the hex head and using that on the hex bolts. After that one one held tension on the spring screw and the other tightened the bolts simultaneously.

Let the gasket material set for a couple hours.

Crossed my fingers and fired it up. Engine sounds better now than it did before. Idles smoother too. Not sure why but I'm not going to question a performance improvement.

No leaky leaky anymore either.

You all rock for helping this rider out!!!
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #62860
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinairflyer View Post
The cam chain tensioner is automatic in keeping tension on the cam chain. You MUST NOT just get a new gasket and install the tensioner without first retracting the plunger that sticks out. If you do, the cam chain will be far too tight resulting in damage to the chain and possibly other engine parts. This has happened to many inexperienced mechanics.....

Some cam chain tensioners have a ratchet type mechanisn to keep the chain tight such as some of the Suzuki SV650s which must be reset before installation. I think the DR650 has the screw type where you must wind a spring with the screw under the bolt on the outside end of the tensioner and hold it wound until the tensioner is installed and the mounting bolts are tight. Then you release the screw and the spring sets the position of the plunger.

L D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Suzuki was closed by the time I got there so no new gasket. Permatex it was then. Put everything back together. Made sure to retract the screw but did not check TDC. Yes the DR has the screw that must be held in place to keep it retracted...made it a bit interesting (felt like I had 3 hands there for a little while) but I found an easy way to tighten the hex bolts while keeping the screw retracted by grinding the tip of any old flat blade screwdriver down till it fit perfectly into the hex head and using that on the hex bolts. After that one one held tension on the spring screw and the other tightened the bolts simultaneously.

Let the gasket material set for a couple hours.

Crossed my fingers and fired it up. Engine sounds better now than it did before. Idles smoother too. Not sure why but I'm not going to question a performance improvement.

No leaky leaky anymore either.

You all rock for helping this rider out!!!
For the record: you turn the screw in the CCT until the plunger latches fully retracted. You do this with the CCT off of the bike.
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:04 PM   #62861
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashback View Post
Yes the DR has the screw that must be held in place to keep it retracted...made it a bit interesting (felt like I had 3 hands there for a little while) but I found an easy way to tighten the hex bolts while keeping the screw retracted by grinding the tip of any old flat blade screwdriver down till it fit perfectly into the hex head and using that on the hex bolts. After that one one held tension on the spring screw and the other tightened the bolts simultaneously.
Next time, turn the screw a leeeetle more and the tensioner will click and stay retracted.
Then once it's installed, turn the other way, click, and it extends nicely...

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Old 04-14-2012, 04:44 PM   #62862
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
Oddometer: 470
Hid

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/drhid001.jpg/
Quote:
Originally Posted by darmahman View Post
Anybody put one of these on their DR? Any tricks?
I used heavy duty 3M velcro tape. 3 photos click on photo to make larger.

zdiver1 screwed with this post 04-14-2012 at 05:23 PM
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:46 PM   #62863
Olas
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Location: Boulder, CO
Oddometer: 4,048
Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Nice.

How has the velcro tape held up?
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:58 PM   #62864
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
You were bottoming the front under braking, with Intiminators?
I can't even get close.
No, the point being made was that if the fork brace had been installed the fender flange would hit the brace. No problems without it, the Intiminators did make a noticeable difference in brake dive, and improved the overall fork performance.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:01 PM   #62865
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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3M Tape

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Nice.

How has the velcro tape held up?
I put it on a few weeks ago, I cleaned the plastic and pulled the plastic off the velcro tape you have to get it right the first try very strong bond.
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