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Old 04-22-2012, 07:11 PM   #63286
zdiver1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Did you install the Carb I sent you I would like to know if it is working for you and your mpg? check in! did it fix your problem?
Hi Paul

Finally got your carb installed today. Everything went smoothly, and the bike fired right up. I also got the fuel filter, and the throttle/clutch lines installed. BTW, thanks again for throwing all that extra stuff into the deal. I definitely came out ahead, I'de say.

Also installed some new spark plugs while i was at it, as I had no idea how old they were.

Really hoping this solved my fuel mileage problems. If not, at least I know it isn't the carb. Didn't get a chance to ride it yet, as i just finished a few minutes ago. Hopefully the weather will be good and I can commute to work on it this week.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:41 PM   #63287
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Track day. A good place to learn. I learned you should take the Ram ball mirror mounts off in case you overcook a corner. Hobbling around with a deep bruise to my right hip. All around, a good day.


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Old 04-22-2012, 08:07 PM   #63288
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions, this one here a great idea, never even thought of that, I was looking at a helicoil. I'll let you all know what i decide to do.
you also might find there are some more thread to catch on to deeper inside the engine case as the stock bolts do not bottom out. get a longer bolt and see if it threads in down deep and count how many turns you get. then you can use locktite red (stronger than blue) to fix the studs in place. another option, if you have no threads to hold on to, is to epoxy or locktite green (stronger than red) the threaded post in place. with epoxy or green that threaded post is not ever gonna move.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:14 PM   #63289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Just remember as per the pictures armour could not be used on the filter cover.
If you remove the cover on your bike the thread can be checked to see what is going on.
There is a possibility a M6 / 1 mm pitch bottoming tap could clean things up and tap into any unused material below the thread that is there.
i assume you a referring to him not being able to use these oil filter gaurds
http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/En...ds/DR650SE.htm

if he was inclined to still use these he could just use longer threaded studs to accommodate the extra thickness of cover, plus the cover bolt opening would probably need to be drilled out larger to accommodate the larger nut to fit in (vrs the smaller button nose head on the original design)

note:
procycle does not have the 3rd oil filter piece in his collection so i assume jeff feels that a skid plate offers enough protection and the oild filter protection plate is overkill
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:23 PM   #63290
ER70S-2
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Bill:
Thanks for posting that link. I was trying to remember what the AMP protector looked like when ADV8 mentioned them.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:27 PM   #63291
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
I went up to visit my sister and noticed about every third bike was a duel sport KLR, BMW, KTM, I did not see a DR. so what is up with that!
The DR's were all in the hills. Half were upside down in ditches and on slopes, but all the riders has smiles

And not one had a latte mustache.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:47 PM   #63292
Afry
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1997 wiring question

Do the green and red wires with two narrow male blades coming out of the loom near the kickstand safety switch wires connect to anything?

Also the black and brown/white with narrow male blades coming out of the loom near the starter relay?

Putting bike back together and not sure I have anything to connect to them.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #63293
Putzy
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Yay! Weather forecast looks great for the week, so will definitely be doing a lot of riding. Keeping my fingers crossed that my fueling issue is resolved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post

Hi Paul

Finally got your carb installed today. Everything went smoothly, and the bike fired right up. I also got the fuel filter, and the throttle/clutch lines installed. BTW, thanks again for throwing all that extra stuff into the deal. I definitely came out ahead, I'de say.

Also installed some new spark plugs while i was at it, as I had no idea how old they were.

Really hoping this solved my fuel mileage problems. If not, at least I know it isn't the carb. Didn't get a chance to ride it yet, as i just finished a few minutes ago. Hopefully the weather will be good and I can commute to work on it this week.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:25 PM   #63294
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Okay based on all the comments about Cogent, I'll look around for a used stock shock and have that rebuilt while I am riding around on mine. I clicked the link to the one in the thread but the link seems broken so I hopped over to fleabay and looked at what they had available. If I can snare the one on there I'll send it out as soon as it arrives
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:32 PM   #63295
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The DR's were all in the hills. Half were upside down in ditches and on slopes, but all the riders has smiles
140 miles after the NASCAR race.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
And not one had a latte mustache.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Afry View Post
Do the green and red wires with two narrow male blades coming out of the loom near the kickstand safety switch wires connect to anything?

Also the black and brown/white with narrow male blades coming out of the loom near the starter relay?

Putting bike back together and not sure I have anything to connect to them.
The red/green aren't connected to anything, the brown/black is the license plate light. It runs down the right rear frame rail, after the plug.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #63296
zdiver1
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Cool2 Kids

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Track day. A good place to learn. I learned you should take the Ram ball mirror mounts off in case you overcook a corner. Hobbling around with a deep bruise to my right hip. All around, a good day.


Would you grow up and act your age! what the hell is wrong with you!
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:25 PM   #63297
TrophyHunter
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Yeah, but I was riding with a bunch of 40 somethins.... I regressed.
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2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:54 PM   #63298
Afry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

The red/green aren't connected to anything, the brown/black is the license plate light. It runs down the right rear frame rail, after the plug.
Thanks thought those brown black wires were used. I got rid of that light.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:34 AM   #63299
absoluteclint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedred View Post
$2500-3500 will easily buy you a good lightly used bike. There are no year models that are especially prone to problems and the age of the bike is not a major consideration. 1996-2012 are pretty much the same. Starting in 2004 the cylinder base gasket was replaced with a metal one to prevent leaks.

When examining a bike do not automatically assume that the number on the odometer is correct. Lots of guys install a digital speedometer such as a Vapor and then reinstall the original speedometer before selling the bike. Carefully examine the condition of the chain, sprockets, thickness of brake pads and amount of ware on the disk brake rotors. Wiggle the wheels side to side to ensure there is not excessive play that would indicate worn bearings. Look for excessive ware marks on the frame. If it looks more worn than the odometer indicates I would not buy it. If the bike smokes or is covered with dents and scratches from off road use I would also stay away from it.

Buy the bike in the best condition you can afford. How long a bike will last is highly variable. There are many people who never maintain their bikes and don't think anything of it. Try to find a bike that appears to have less than 5000 miles to reduce the chance of problems caused by neglected maintenance or abusive riding.

If you keep up with the maintenance and don't ride it like a motocross racer or a crotch rocket it will likely last more than 40,000 miles without needing to tear into the engine.
Tedred... Thanks for the reply and tips. The insight about the cylinder base gasket being changed after 2004 is exactly the kind of DR-specific advice and intel I'm trying to educate myself on. Any other year or model-specific insight you folks can advise on?

Also... thanks for the general advice when giving a potential purchase a look-over. I was curious about and assumed alot of folks probably changed the speedometer to an aftermarket digital alternative... good advice... if a bike has a low mile, shiny, original speedometer and is an otherwise worn out machine I'll steer clear... Thanks!

I like the DRZ400 too as a potential first bike... but believe the 650 would better serve my intended riding scenarios and style. When buying used I'm hoping this a plus in my favor... I'm hoping and assuming that when comparing the 650 and 400 there are more 650's out there with gentle miles (commuter, FS roads, etc)... I know that if I had the DRZ400 it would have more abusive miles!

Thanks for responding... Any other tips or sound advice out there?
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:50 AM   #63300
jon_l
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Tusk fender pack with tire irons on DR650

Is anybody using a Tusk front fender bag like this?



I put one on this weekend in anticipation of an upcoming trip. It looks good; aside from the 2 tire irons, it holds all the necessities - spare 21" HD tube, valve stem fishing tool, valve core tool, a little plastic vial of dish-soap, a tube patch kit, a rag, and a MSR 15' tow strap.

Wondering if this thing will stay put on and off road, and whether anyone puts a tether of some sort on in case it comes loose. I'd really have to lose it, but I would especially hate to crash because it slipped and got tangled in the front end.
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