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Old 05-01-2012, 03:48 PM   #63631
RebelYell
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: somerset nj
Oddometer: 485
Thanks for the information from yall by the way.It just appeals to me this bike ,I guess ill have to look at a 250 ,I'd take a dr 200 s but it just seems to small for me.Nj is one of the states you really have to be legal to ride in and no dmv wont let you plate your mx or 2 or 4 stroke enduro bikes either anymore.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:15 PM   #63632
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZchris View Post
If you have $160 bucks to spend on your DR650 would you spend it on a seat concepts seat or a windshield?
+ 1 on the seat.
I had a Seat Concepts seat arrive a week or so back to see how it goes against the Corbin.
Certainly a lot lighter having the stock (eBay) pan.
Not such a priority now.

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Old 05-01-2012, 04:18 PM   #63633
sirpy
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Hey guys,

So I have been eyeing off dr650s for a while, and last weekend dropped some cash for an old '96 dr that was turned into a nice looking motard. Little bit of a shame, is it looks really nice as it, but I plan to take it around Australia and will be decked out with camping gear and the like I plan on a long, trip around the coast line and through the middle, no time restraints. But as such I need to setup the bike to give me the least amount of grief as possible.

It seems to need a new clutch as it slips a little around 4k+ when given some right wrist. Ive been trawling through the net and this thread trying to get an idea of the most reliable clutch, and so far all I have got is steer away from EBC units, can any one give me a recommendation for a new clutch? OEM, Barnett? It has a dynojet kit and a little work done.

Im looking at rebuilding the engine, for piece of mind, I am a little unsure of how many ks the engine has on it, it feels good, will have a little look in a week or so. Im not too keen to replace the piston, but it seems people say they are cheap and might as well do it if the rings are being swapped. Ive been looking at after market pistons (havnt got price for oem always seems expensive) and so far only the 10.5 comp comes up. How much hotter does the high comp piston run? Does it need high octane fuel?

It currently has a 17inch front rim on, I havnt done any off roading with motorbikes as of yet, but I want to start, it seems people dont/fear smaller rims. Im sure there is a reason, but im not experienced enough to see why? Does ruts and so on through the handles around? Since Im sure i will be doing more road than offroad, im keen to keep the wheel size down? Seems a good compromise is 19inch What do you guys recommend?


Cheers,

Jason
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:27 PM   #63634
AZchris
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsmiley View Post
No Dought SEAT!!! I paid less than $50.00 for my Spitfire windshield that I don't use that often. The seat get's used everyday!!!
I'll take your windshield if you want to get rid of it.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:21 PM   #63635
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,926
Quote:
Originally Posted by twigsnapper View Post
Does stalling when coming to a stop suggest too lean? It runs great other than that, not surging, pretty smooth accel; a bit of decel popping, 47mpg city/50 mpg hwy. I had it 3-1/2 turns open. Is there a range of turns that beyond its trying to tell you something else is wrong. If I change the main jet would that do anything at idle, thinking not.

On another note, what is the cheapest tool to measure rpm while fussing. Just read that prior post but seemed a tach was needed to do it rite.
The DRs seem to be happiest with the idle fuel screw out 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 turns. 3-1/2 is most likely too rich and could cause stalling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
+ 1 on the seat.
I had a Seat Concepts seat arrive a week or so back to see how it goes against the Corbin.
Certainly a lot lighter having the stock (eBay) pan.
Not such a priority now.
Are you doing the 780 now?

Did you find out how much our DR motors weigh? That red cushion would make a nice seat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sirpy View Post
Hey guys,

So I have been eyeing off dr650s for a while, and last weekend dropped some cash for an old '96 dr that was turned into a nice looking motard. Little bit of a shame, is it looks really nice as it, but I plan to take it around Australia and will be decked out with camping gear and the like I plan on a long, trip around the coast line and through the middle, no time restraints. But as such I need to setup the bike to give me the least amount of grief as possible.

It seems to need a new clutch as it slips a little around 4k+ when given some right wrist. Ive been trawling through the net and this thread trying to get an idea of the most reliable clutch, and so far all I have got is steer away from EBC units, can any one give me a recommendation for a new clutch? OEM, Barnett? It has a dynojet kit and a little work done.

Im looking at rebuilding the engine, for piece of mind, I am a little unsure of how many ks the engine has on it, it feels good, will have a little look in a week or so. Im not too keen to replace the piston, but it seems people say they are cheap and might as well do it if the rings are being swapped. Ive been looking at after market pistons (havnt got price for oem always seems expensive) and so far only the 10.5 comp comes up. How much hotter does the high comp piston run? Does it need high octane fuel?

It currently has a 17inch front rim on, I havnt done any off roading with motorbikes as of yet, but I want to start, it seems people dont/fear smaller rims. Im sure there is a reason, but im not experienced enough to see why? Does ruts and so on through the handles around? Since Im sure i will be doing more road than offroad, im keen to keep the wheel size down? Seems a good compromise is 19inch What do you guys recommend?

Cheers,

Jason
How much is it paved around Aus and through the middle? My question: are you planning on running a street type tire, dual sport or knobby. Click on Goodcat8's user, click 'see more posts' and look back thru his photos. That looks like a good combo for long miles of dirt. If you're doing a lot of dirt, suspension mods are a must, or you'll shake your luggage to pieces.

A taller tire will span larger stutter bumps (corrigations?). A smaller diameter tire will drop in every one.

A stock piston is $68 on Bike Bandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/?WT.mc_id=..._r=2&WT.srch=1
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:26 PM   #63636
ADVwanaB
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Central Jersey
Oddometer: 827
Guys, my new to me 650 has been lowered by the PO.
I put on the new ProCycle seat and i seem to be sliding forward on braking. (yes the forks dive, i need to put spacers on the springs i guess)
Have you found the seat to be real slippery or is my bike ass high?
It doesn't feel like the steering is all that quick but it does feel like the back is higher than the front now. Is the seat going to break in and soften up a bit more? it is pretty hard foam.
Chime in if you have a PorCycle Seat.
Also, how much spacer should i start with for the fork tubes??
1/2"???
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:31 PM   #63637
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Geared up, I'm 205#. 1/2" spacers were too stiff and 1/4" were still too soft.

Both made a major improvement in brake dive.

Are your fork tubes flush with the top triple or slid up some.

Edit: Also about the lowered suspension: My stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline. Factory lowered should be 33 3/4".
__________________
2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-01-2012 at 05:42 PM
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:41 PM   #63638
Monroe
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: midwest
Oddometer: 646
Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I've had three of those filler caps in the past two yrs, 30,000 miles, and all three have leaked. Rubber gasket failed in each. This last time, I was over 800 miles away from home, stopping at each motorcycle store, NAPA, lawnmower shop I could find to try and get another gasket. I think I ruined my brand new Wolman Small Enduro tank bag from all the fuel it took on. How do I get the smell of fuel out?
I don't think I'll use this cap again.
I also had a leaking locking cap for my IMS tank. The rubber gasket appeared to swell and deform, not fitting in the cap. I contacted Acerbis with pics of seal and cap and they sent me a complete new cap and have had no issues with the replacement: leaking or venting

Steve
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:41 PM   #63639
ADV8
Taumarunui..Darwin..
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Are you doing the 780 now?

Did you find out how much our DR motors weigh? That red cushion would make a nice seat.
There are no scales available so not sure of the weight,perhaps 50 something kgs (100+ lbs)
Mission today is strip the DR engine and get three of the gears in the post to Nova Racing Transmissions then prep it for reassembly and yes all the new upgrade parts.
__________________
The person who got you the billet DR650 third gear set, you're welcome.
49 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe-57 TR6 Trophy-68 Huskys x 2-71 Commando Fastback-73 Ducati 750GT-73 Eldorado-74 TR5T x 2-74 Commando Roadster-73 and 74 H2A/B-77 and 81 900SD's-86 400WR-98 TL1000S x 2-08 DR780-07 Ducati HM 1100S
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:05 PM   #63640
Nibis
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Troy, Mo.
Oddometer: 844
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirpy View Post
Hey guys,

So I have been eyeing off dr650s for a while, and last weekend dropped some cash for an old '96 dr that was turned into a nice looking motard. Little bit of a shame, is it looks really nice as it, but I plan to take it around Australia and will be decked out with camping gear and the like I plan on a long, trip around the coast line and through the middle, no time restraints. But as such I need to setup the bike to give me the least amount of grief as possible.

It seems to need a new clutch as it slips a little around 4k+ when given some right wrist. Ive been trawling through the net and this thread trying to get an idea of the most reliable clutch, and so far all I have got is steer away from EBC units, can any one give me a recommendation for a new clutch? OEM, Barnett? It has a dynojet kit and a little work done.

Im looking at rebuilding the engine, for piece of mind, I am a little unsure of how many ks the engine has on it, it feels good, will have a little look in a week or so. Im not too keen to replace the piston, but it seems people say they are cheap and might as well do it if the rings are being swapped. Ive been looking at after market pistons (havnt got price for oem always seems expensive) and so far only the 10.5 comp comes up. How much hotter does the high comp piston run? Does it need high octane fuel?

It currently has a 17inch front rim on, I havnt done any off roading with motorbikes as of yet, but I want to start, it seems people dont/fear smaller rims. Im sure there is a reason, but im not experienced enough to see why? Does ruts and so on through the handles around? Since Im sure i will be doing more road than offroad, im keen to keep the wheel size down? Seems a good compromise is 19inch What do you guys recommend?


Cheers,

Jason
Barrnett makes good clutches, you won't need the heavier springs though, IMO the stock clutch is the way to go
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:11 PM   #63641
ADVwanaB
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Central Jersey
Oddometer: 827
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Geared up, I'm 205#. 1/2" spacers were too stiff and 1/4" were still too soft.

Both made a major improvement in brake dive.

Are your fork tubes flush with the top triple or slid up some.

Edit: Also about the lowered suspension: My stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline. Factory lowered should be 33 3/4".
I just measured my forks with the bike on a stand. the forks are stock length at 35 1/4". HUH??? my kick stand has been welded so i thought the bike was lowered. I recall sitting on a bike in the showroom and it felt much taller. Now i need to look deeper. the rear shock bolt was in the bottom hole, and the "links" have a stamping on them of "32E". Are the links not stock????
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:14 PM   #63642
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,926
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
There are no scales available so not sure of the weight,perhaps 50 something kgs (100+ lbs)
Mission today is strip the DR engine and get three of the gears in the post to Nova Racing Transmissions then prep it for reassembly and yes all the new upgrade parts.
Do you think the new 3rd gearset will be ready in time for your reassembly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVwanaB View Post
I just measured my forks with the bike on a stand. the forks are stock length at 35 1/4". HUH??? my kick stand has been welded so i thought the bike was lowered. I recall sitting on a bike in the showroom and it felt much taller. Now i need to look deeper. the rear shock bolt was in the bottom hole, and the "links" have a stamping on them of "32E". Are the links not stock????
Bottom hole is stock (high) and 32E is also stock. 32E is stamped all over the bike, on different parts. You may have the gel seat, it's shorter (don't remember how much). About the welded stand, mine is just a bit too long, I have to plan my stops, so someone may have corrected that.

__________________
2004 DR650: 62,400 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-01-2012 at 07:43 PM
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:17 PM   #63643
notarat
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Location: Bluff City
Oddometer: 333
What comes in a box marked "Medium" and is anything but?








My Acerbis tank! (damned if I didn't forget to check the petcock, lol)



And yet I didn't get to install it.

Why?

Because I was installing my other farkles like the Wolfman Luggage Racks, Moose Racing Day Bags, and Windscreen.



I have the Wolfman Expedition Bags in Yellow in the garage for later on.

I'm saving the tank for an upcoming wrenching day when I do my first oil change/filter change on it and check the valves (No. I still don't have 600 miles on it yet. I'm getting there. Don't rush me)
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:32 PM   #63644
mslow
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Location: Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 523
The Acerbis tank saga continues...

I finally got the right petcock from Acerbis after more than a weeks wait.
In reading previous posts, there were pretty clear instructions on how to pivot the fuel intake to the carb from 12 o'clock to 9 o'clock so there is no rise in the fuel line.
I followed it to the tee, heated it up, used a vise and all. Well the fuel inlet twisted like a twist tie. The base stayed put and the neck twisted.... It didn't break, but it does look like it got pinched some, but not closed.
So now what?
Do i drill it out and screw in a fitting? If so, what size and where would i get it?

Next, the petcock they sent does not have a connection for the vacuum line that was fitted to the stock petcock, what do i do with that to keep everything running as it should?

Thanks
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #63645
Rumlover
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Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVwanaB View Post
I just measured my forks with the bike on a stand. the forks are stock length at 35 1/4". HUH??? my kick stand has been welded so i thought the bike was lowered. I recall sitting on a bike in the showroom and it felt much taller. Now i need to look deeper. the rear shock bolt was in the bottom hole, and the "links" have a stamping on them of "32E". Are the links not stock????
Those are stock links. If it is in the bottom (lower) hole it is at the stock raised height. Probably the previous owner has taken preload off the rear shock (by way of the adjusting nuts on top of the spring) and lowered it a little that way, and shortened the kickstand because of that.

Might check if it is a "stock" shock\spring
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