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Old 05-03-2012, 07:18 PM   #63781
Trailrider58
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Location: Cypress, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
You are right on with your assessment. I love my DR, but I know it's limitations.
Suspension needs investment to make it better for offroad work. Cogent rear and RaceTech emulators and springs in the front made mine 100% better, but ground clearance and weight still hold it back. That's why I have the KTM. My DR650 is a true dualsport bike. It does the street and some trails well. My KTM is an offroad bike that is geared too low and to vibey for street work. But it does nasty trails well. You can never have too many bikes.

I was once told you can tell a real craftsman by how many different hammers he has.

Bikes are kind of the same as hammers. Pick the right one for the job. The DR650 is the right one for an awful lot of jobs.

so your KTM400 is geared too low and vibrates too much on the pavement? This too was one of my possible options for a lighter trail bike.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:21 PM   #63782
Trailrider58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
I'd challenge that theory.
With the proper set-up you can take the DR650 pretty much anywhere.
After getting new internals in the forks and rear shock we had to test it out.
A quick video of a "suspension test"....if you want to call it that

Click the Pic

Good job on your suspension modifications. But I didn't know pigs could fly. I just don't want to submit my DR to that kind of air. Once had a wonderful little XR200 trailie and was too hard on it at the MX track asking it to do stuff it was not intended for. Don't want the same fate for the DR.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:27 PM   #63783
Trailrider58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I thought you did just fine on your DR650! I didn't notice your buddies running away and disappearing on you there ... and I never saw you fall! You done good, IMHO! Obviously, in those muddy, knarly conditions, the DR650 is not ideal. But then, IMO, neither is the DRZ. I owned the E model for 3 years, which is worlds better than the S model I believe your buddies were on.

Even my E would be challenged in that Arkansas muck, rocks and roots.
Sure, the DRZ is better than the DR, but they suck at just about every thing else ... and anything that has to do with pavement. And in truly technical riding are difficult, IMO. (especially for old guys)

If you really want to be comfortable on the trails shown in your U Tube, I'd be going with a 250 of some kind. My old XR250R would eat up trails like that, and my current WR250F is actually fun in those conditions. My WR250F is about 80 lbs. lighter weight than the DRZ400S, plus less rotating mass which really makes a difference when trying to hustle through the woods and dodging trees.

The DRZ is now, over 12 years old and has never been updated. It's out dated. Several other legal and non legal bikes are a better bet. But the DRZ is a great value and many of the competition I refer to are not so cheap. But consider the following bikes for muddy trail rides:

WR250 "R" (street legal) or "F" (off road version)
Husqvarna TE250 (street legal)
Any Two Stroke MX'er conversion or Enduro Two Stroke like KTM 250 or 300exc.

Do you need be street legal to ride out there? Did you ride your DR650 there from Texas? Or truck it? If you're trucking anyway, may as well bring the right weapon! (I think you mentioned two strokes in your garage)

Any small KTM 250, 300, 350 or 450. two or four stroke, all good.
450cc Husaberg. Fantastic bikes! (Used ones are reasonable $)
XR250R (cheap $, fun, capable in the woods!)

I'm currently shopping for a used Two Stroke myself. Something set up for trail riding. $1500 to $2000 budget, hopefully. Light, cheap to run, and if set right, unbeatable.
Understand your affinity for the old XR250 - I had an XR200 and could do surprisingly well on it on tight trails. Underpowered play bike, but could always find traction and handled great.

We trucked our bikes to Arkansas, but there you have to have a spark arrestor muffler to ride the forests. Also, we brought along street legal because of the twistys in between the trail/camp sites. 750 plus miles covered for that week.

Have an old KTM380 SX two-stroke in the garage. It's a widow maker. Got to admit I'm tempted by the orange bikes, but have suspicions they are a bit finicky. Can't beat the reliability factor of the DRs and DRZs.

I will stay with something street legal and probably four-stroke.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:32 PM   #63784
Trailrider58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The DRZ is better off road than the DR.

However, if the DR is your only bike then it will go those places and do all those tracks.

I've got video of my DR on an MX test track too. I've also ridden a 3hr crosscountry race on it.
Now I've got a TT350 for that sort of stuff, the DR doesn't get so abused.
Well ok. Only slightly abused...
Being able to have only one bike for a while was exactly the reason I went with the DR in the first place. At the time it was great for chasing around a small son on his CRF70, and some back country road jaunts. Took it on the Tennessee section of the TAT in 2011 and it was a perfect bike for that type of riding.

Agreed, it is a very capable compromise bike. Just now I can start looking at some more "application specific" bikes too.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:35 PM   #63785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
There ya go. That makes sense. Ah, but shouldn't that be a #2?
Something else to do, if you don't have an impact driver, tap the screw driver handle with a hammer as you twist it with the other hand. In other words, the same way you would use an impact driver. This sends a loosening shock through the threads and tends to drive the screwdriver deeper so it doesn't twist out of the slots.

poppawheelie....Might be a #2, it's been a while since I've had the carb apart...let common sense prevail...not necessarily what Tech23 posts ;^) I think the idea still comes across. To be honest I blunted all of my phillips head screwdrivers, they just work better that way. If the point on the tip of the screwdriver bottoms out in the screw head before the blades even seat in the slots and you start twisting doesn't take much imagination to figure out you are gonna strip out the head of that fastener in a hurry. If the screwdriver fits properly a lot of aggravation and stripped fasteners can be avoided for sure.

Tech23
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #63786
Trailrider58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
So your buddies are in better shape, are not as heavy, have better skills, are carrying a lighter load on (probably) the right springs/dampening for their weight, you pretty much still kept up with them...and it's the bike's fault that they had an easier time of it? At least, that's the way your post reads to ME. You might have meant something entirely different.

I would agree that the DR-Z is probably the better cool-temp dirty bike, but a DR that is set up well (weight shaved, full-adjustable suspension swapped on, pumper flat-slide, DOT knobs, armor, higher bars, etc.) isn't that far behind in the dirt. The DR is a better dualsport, IMO. In the do-it-all way of looking at it, the gap is wider, with the DR now being the favored one. 2-up with luggage, on the interstate, can still be done OK on that same DR, without having to change sprockets or other parts when you enter/leave the dirt. It also doesn't have a radiator to boil/bust, and the oil cooler can be bypassed pretty easily without overheating the bike, if necessary. It will get you home down that 300 miles of 100-degree slab after busting it up on a rock.

With just a wide-ratio 6spd, an uncorked DR-Z with rad guards would be a much better contender as a dualsport.
Your points are well taken. Again, only meant to offer up an opinion; the stock DR will get through the rough trails, it will just take more of a physical toll on you than some other models. This was not intended to criticize a bike I've had for over 5 years now and experienced zero issues with so far.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:51 PM   #63787
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visibility is always good.....

anyone ever run led turn signals AND stock ones from same suppl=y wires????? figure more lights the better!
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:16 PM   #63788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
There ya go. That makes sense. Ah, but shouldn't that be a #2?
Something else to do, if you don't have an impact driver, tap the screw driver handle with a hammer as you twist it with the other hand. In other words, the same way you would use an impact driver. This sends a loosening shock through the threads and tends to drive the screwdriver deeper so it doen't twist out of the slots.
I haven't bought them myself (YET) but I've been meaning to try the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers and see if it makes any difference.

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm

http://www.ikaswebshop.com/hojisscset4d.html

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc...-screwdrivers/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsZt0Wh3s30
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:04 PM   #63789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider58 View Post
The disclaimer: all riders in this video are in their mid-fifties and should have known better, all received full pardons from the wives to experience this adventure, and no animals were injured in the making of this movie.

One last comment. I'm only trying to offer up a bit of entertainment and food for thought here. Not trying to start any kind of bike bashing war. Love the DR650 thread. Hope you enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC86OTxX6bE
I found it entertaining, thanks. I had no idea there were that many rocks 'back there'.

Once the wives see whut yer up to, there will be no more pardons. Since no animals were injured, what did ya eat??

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
Hi guys,

I'd just received a TM40 carb from Procycle.
In the written instructions they mentioned something about raising the Needle Clip to the 2nd position to achieve better fuel economy.

I'm clueless about all these! Anyone able to teach me how to go about doing this?
Running a K&N air filter, GSXR x40F0x muffler, stock air box(intending to cut it for best performance), and now the TM40..

Also, anyone knows if the IMS fuel cap is compatible with the Safari Fuel tank? I thought I'd ordered an Acerbis Fuel cap (to solve fuel from splashing out of my Safari Tank now with the lockable cap)but have received the IMS one instead.
Thanks!
Here's a pic of 4 needles. The top two have 5 clip positions, the third only has one (stock DR650), look closely, the bottom one has 6. Lying on their side, the positions count from the left to the right (top to bottom). If you put the clip in #1, the needle drops further into the needle jet (a replaceable part in the carb). This restricts the flow and leans the mixture.

The opposite is true, if you put the clip in #5, the needle is raised to a narrower point on the taper and the mixture gets richer (more fuel).

Ok, I did my part, your turn: I'm honestly not trying to be a butt head (and I was in your shoes a very long time ago). If you don't know a lot about the bike, why are you screwing with it? Reading stuff on the internet will make you nutz if you try to do it all. The only thing a stock DR needs is a new seat. Read less, ride more.

It took me an hour to find this photo is courtesy of mx_rob: (could not remember) Crap, it's midnite.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
That's what I recommended here months ago!

Why look around for a bolt, when you've got the correct one in hand?

Lex
Hey Lex:
I know I read your post, but I didn't know what it meant until I had my own 'ah ha' moment.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:11 PM   #63790
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Works well.

Oh NO! Not yet another pick-up coil failure!!!

(Just kidding! Still, must have sucked to have been you right then. Sorry.)

Lex
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:17 PM   #63791
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
Hi Paul

So on the 1st full tank since I installed your carb, i still only got 36 mpg, all commuting to work at 35-60 mph on city streets and knobby tires. I just dont believe all you people saying you getting 50+ mpg! :(

So not sure what to think now. I will say it seems to be idling quite high. I don't know how to see what RPM its running at though.

Anyway, I guess my problems are continuing. Too bad.

I was getting 45 to 50 mpg when I took it off and I am getting 50 mph with the tm40.
So I do not know what to tell him.
Any Ideas to help Putzy?
I just finished a 334 mile fuel economy test. 30% freeway at 70-75 mph indicated, 20% 5th gear 50-60mph indicated, 50% 2rd - 4th gear on/off throttle on twisty paved roads; 10' ASL to 1600' ASL; OEM gearing.

F/A screw backed out 1.75 turns, washer under jet needle, snorkle removed, Shinko 705s front and rear, stock everything else.

53 mpg.

I'm content.

Lex
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:59 PM   #63792
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
poppawheelie....Might be a #2, it's been a while since I've had the carb apart...let common sense prevail...not necessarily what Tech23 posts ;^) I think the idea still comes across. To be honest I blunted all of my phillips head screwdrivers, they just work better that way. If the point on the tip of the screwdriver bottoms out in the screw head before the blades even seat in the slots and you start twisting doesn't take much imagination to figure out you are gonna strip out the head of that fastener in a hurry. If the screwdriver fits properly a lot of aggravation and stripped fasteners can be avoided for sure.

Tech23
This is something I'll be investigating when next I take tools to the DR. I've known about the difference in Phillips screws for decades, and know I should buy a set of specific drivers, but never had - couldn't overcome the inertia. If I can file down the tips of some Phillips bits, now that's something even a procrastinator like me will get done. Thanks for the info.

Lex
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:54 AM   #63793
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Oh NO! Not yet another pick-up coil failure!!!
Holed engine cover on the Buchanan Highway,no biggie.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buchanan_Highway

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Old 05-04-2012, 03:34 AM   #63794
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr DR650 (2011) View Post
jesse@rvi.net

Hi all,

I've been sending messages to Jesse at Kientech but not getting any reply (as I want to buy the valve tool). Does anyone know if he is out the the shop; public holiday over there in the states??

Oh well, will have to look else where.

thanks
Mr. DR - No idea re: Jesse's whereabouts, but if you can find a square drive "Robertson" #2 stove bolt, double-nut it, I believe it is the same size. Someone here will confirm (or deny).

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:10 AM   #63795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post

Even my E would be challenged in that Arkansas muck, rocks and roots.
Sure, the DRZ is better than the DR, but they suck at just about every thing else ... and anything that has to do with pavement. And in truly technical riding are difficult, IMO. (especially for old guys)
Yup, I've ridden a lot of different bikes through the muck up here including my old tagged DRZE. Sure the DR can go pretty much anywhere the DRZ can go, and the DRZ can go pretty much anywhere my KTM 450 EXC can go. The big difference is how they do it. The KTM blows through the stuff leaving you begging for more. The DR crawls through it leaving you begging for NO more. The DRZ slogs through it leaving you trying to decide if you want more or not.
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