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Old 05-08-2012, 08:25 AM   #63961
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 803
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Did a bunch of stuff on the DR this week, getting ready for summer riding. New plugs, air cleaner, fuel filter, fork oil. I checked the valves: all still within specs at 43,000 miles. Only one exhaust valve has needed any attention (at 4,000 miles) and it's been stable like the others since.

I replaced my after market brake pads (EBC) because I couldn't stand them any more. I put Suzuki pads back on and the difference is very noticeable- decent stopping power again. I was trying to save money with the EBC's but for me it was a waste of money.

Among other things I replaced my battery. The old one was fine and only 2.5 years old, but someone here once said they think of batteries as wear items (like tires) and replace them BEFORE they strand them in the backcountry. What a concept! I decided that was a pretty smart thing to do since I've got plans to ride a lot of passes this summer. (A new battery costs less than most tires.)

Another thing I did was replace the swing arm chain buffer. Here's a pic of old and new- 43,000 miles and about 1/2 worn through.



Most of the wear was on the inside edge where it was hard to see.

.............shu
Changed mine at 52,xxx miles and it had just worn through.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:38 AM   #63962
Dravintoad
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Oddometer: 1,753
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
So is there any opinions on this? Is this chain movement normal? Sure doesn't seem normal to me. What could be causing this?
I don't see how you could avoid having chain movement like that unless you just tightened the crap out of it. With each thump of that cylinder the chain will tighten and then loosen between. To me, it looks normal considering what is going on.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:50 AM   #63963
KS Jay
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: KS/NE/CO
Oddometer: 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
I found using those breathers with IMS tank cap requires heating the breather hose with a heatgun (or other heat source) and then pushing on tank cap. After the hose cools it will fit very tight, I did a 150 mile ride last week on dirt roads and didn't lose the breather. I believe that's how the hose was fitted to the breather - using heat because the hose is plastic (vinyl) not rubber. Got my breather from Procycle.

Hey! My first contribution to the DR650 forum.... I own a 2006 DR650, 2500 miles, slightly farkled. Great bike, fits right in with the country-dirt roads where I live. Pics to follow once I get a pic host account....safe riding!
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:53 AM   #63964
maynard911
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
My fix was a short piece of rubber hose, approximately 1/2 in. long, outside diameter a tight fit in the depression surrounding the nipple, inside diameter a tight fit over the black tube on the vent. Push the bushing piece onto the black tube until the ends are flush, then install on the cap by applying pressure to the vent and at the same time working the bushing down with a screwdriver. Works great, and there is no reliance on adhesive that might be attacked by the fuel fumes.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:59 AM   #63965
BadDogMax
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 159
Chain vibration video

Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
NordieBoy, you are on to something! I am working from home today so I thought I'd grab the video camera and run up the road and back. Most of the time the chain was smooth, but during the vibration it was... well... watch the video:

Check out the slo mo of the chain at the end!



I'll add some details about the video:

- the chain is tightened within spec (one notch tighter on the snail adjusters would be too tight)
- Both upper and lower rollers are installed (tried it without upper roller and vibration is the same)
- Front sprocket is a 14t, rear is stock.
- the slapping of the top half of the chain on the swingarm coincides with the bad vibes I'm feeling in the seat and pegs.

It seems like this is an oscillation, not just random slapping. And I don't think it's normal otherwise everyone would be complaining about it.

Maybe I need something like this?

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:13 AM   #63966
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
My fix was a short piece of rubber hose, approximately 1/2 in. long, outside diameter a tight fit in the depression surrounding the nipple, inside diameter a tight fit over the black tube on the vent. Push the bushing piece onto the black tube until the ends are flush, then install on the cap by applying pressure to the vent and at the same time working the bushing down with a screwdriver. Works great, and there is no reliance on adhesive that might be attacked by the fuel fumes.
That's a good idea too. Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:18 AM   #63967
notarat
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Bluff City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Happy to be of assistance to you!

In a Word document, separate each note / post by a hard horizontal line (hold down Shift and press "_" three times); add a reference word peculiar to the topic at the top or bottom of the note / post so you can use the Find feature, then scroll through all the found reference words. Alternatively you could devise an alpha-numeric sequence peculiar to each topic for the search function, but a sequence not otherwise used in the Word file, as in AA1 = motor topic, AA2 = suspension topic.

Or do like I do (pic of a portion of my harddrive tree):






Lex

I generally only get that detailed when organizing my porn.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:03 AM   #63968
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I'll add some details about the video:

- the chain is tightened within spec (one notch tighter on the snail adjusters would be too tight)
- Both upper and lower rollers are installed (tried it without upper roller and vibration is the same)
- Front sprocket is a 14t, rear is stock.
- the slapping of the top half of the chain on the swingarm coincides with the bad vibes I'm feeling in the seat and pegs.

It seems like this is an oscillation, not just random slapping. And I don't think it's normal otherwise everyone would be complaining about it.

Maybe I need something like this?

If it was mine I would be getting the dial indicator out and checking the run-out of the front and rear sprocket and maybe the shafts they run on. There is a lot going on there that I don't normally see on a bike under smooth throttle. The chain will do wierd stuff when "on-off-on" throttle or downshifting. The bottom can even get an "S" bend to it under hard acceleration but the top should run straight and true.


Edit: thought about it a little more- if you have a miss in the engine under load it would be like "on-off-on" throttle and would make the chain slap around like that. The chain slapping could be masking the miss.

Mongle screwed with this post 05-08-2012 at 03:00 PM
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:04 AM   #63969
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 559
"Stupid gas cap vent!" as Homer would say.

Thanks for all the tips. Here's the result, since a couple people think the Super Glue will let go.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:09 AM   #63970
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Damn, I would have lost a lot of money on that bet, ethanol or not.
You would have had a 50/50 chance on that money. All tubes are not equal! I had my gasket go bad on my IMS and a guy gave me a tube..lasted about a day. He gave me enough to make it through my trip so I just cut out 2-3 and kept them in the saddle bag. I'm not sure that soaking it is the problem...I think the fumes are what make it fall apart.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #63971
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
So is there any opinions on this? Is this chain movement normal? Sure doesn't seem normal to me. What could be causing this?
Normal.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #63972
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Did a bunch of stuff on the DR this week, getting ready for summer riding. New plugs, air cleaner, fuel filter, fork oil. I checked the valves: all still within specs at 43,000 miles. Only one exhaust valve has needed any attention (at 4,000 miles) and it's been stable like the others since.

I replaced my after market brake pads (EBC) because I couldn't stand them any more. I put Suzuki pads back on and the difference is very noticeable- decent stopping power again. I was trying to save money with the EBC's but for me it was a waste of money.

Among other things I replaced my battery. The old one was fine and only 2.5 years old, but someone here once said they think of batteries as wear items (like tires) and replace them BEFORE they strand them in the backcountry. What a concept! I decided that was a pretty smart thing to do since I've got plans to ride a lot of passes this summer. (A new battery costs less than most tires.)

Another thing I did was replace the swing arm chain buffer. Here's a pic of old and new- 43,000 miles and about 1/2 worn through.



Most of the wear was on the inside edge where it was hard to see.

.............shu
Thanks for the comments on using OEM Nissin brake pads. I found the same thing vs EBC ... but thought maybe it was just an anomaly or my imagination. I think EBC tend to start off feeling "OK" ... but as they wear they get worse and worse. (perhaps they get over heated, "Glazed" ? )

I'm going to have to pull my Swingarm and replace the rubber chain buffer too. Mine looks about like yours, now at 45K miles.

A few years ago, I pulled the Swingarm off a blown '96 DR650. The nuts and bolts were so tight ... and like corroded in place ??? ... that the big threaded bolts were RUINED getting them out. Threads destroyed. Weird.

I'm hoping my '06 Swingarm will fare better. How did the hardware on your Swingarm look coming out? OK?
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #63973
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
You would have had a 50/50 chance on that money. All tubes are not equal!
That's true. I can't remember if that piece I soaked was real rubber or butyl from a bicycle tube, but I cut a piece for a petcock gasket and it was still fine when I sold the bike years latter.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:52 AM   #63974
Escaped
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Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 471
DR650: Front fork upgrade and brake line upgrade - install & review

I finally got around to installing Ricor Intiminator Fork Valves and front stainless steel brake lines on my 2006 Dr650. My primary goal was to reduce front end dive and improve braking. I followed Eakins post for the Intiminator install – great resource! Installation was easy:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588

At the same time I installed a new stainless steel front brake line, installation was also easy.
* Used stock springs
* About 18 ounces of 5w shock fluid in each shock.
* Increased preload by about ˝ an inch (did not cut spacer to compensate for Intiminator thickness.
* No modification to rear suspension yet.

All parts were purchased from Procycle.

Front end dive upon braking was greatly reduced, enough dive remained to allow proper weight transfer to front tire while leaving enough weight on the rear to keep the rear tire “in the game” during hard braking.

With the stainless steel front line, the break lever is very firm. I decided not to change the rear in order to help prevent / reduce potential rear end lock up.

The handling on the read is great; I noticed significant improvement in sharp cornering; with the stock set up the front end felt unstable in a sharp turn now it’s much “tighter”. I have not yet taken it off road yet but I expect good improvement there also.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:46 PM   #63975
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 6,085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I would be curious enough to remove the lower allen bolt and see if the NSU has a metal insert/sleeve in it now. That would likely keep them tight. If there is no metal insert/sleeve that the bolt passes through I would still remove one bolt at a time and either apply loctite or drill the bolts and safety wire them. It's hard to tell from the pic...are those allen flange style bolts or allen bolts with washers or maybe allen bolts with captive washers?

Tech23
Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
absolutley. i will so that today and report back.
Did I miss this answer?
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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