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Old 05-07-2012, 12:51 PM   #63961
Waldo308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
For the record, those two screws were the tightest I've found on the DR. Much tighter than the four carb screws, and tight for several turns out. They must have used red Loctite.



ER70:

You're right about that! The left one came out easily. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the right one without damaging the carb. Tried soaking the area in PB Blaster and pounding my screwdriver handle with a plastic mallet while trying to turn the screw but it has not budged at all. I stopped when the screw started to show some signs of getting ready to strip out.

I'm still trying to figure out how to hold it in a vise and use an impact driver without doing damage. I really don't want to end up buying a new carb just because of this cable issue. I'll definitely replace them with socket head cap screws like you did.

Now I just gotta find out where to get a replacement bracket.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:53 PM   #63962
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I can't answer your question but do you have one to look at? I was completely comfortable at 75mph with the 16-42, although it took a little clutch slipping to get it rolling in traffic.



With my Supermoto setup I stayed with the 525 chain and went +1 +1 on the gearing (16/43) for me it works well but I only ride street.

Travel tip, these or the soft foam ones. Make sure they're into the ear canal, not just where your thumb fits.

I like these because I don't have to roll them every time I put them back in.

I wanted to throw this out there too. I can't deal with the expanding foam ear plugs they always seem to fall out or come loose and those above drive me crazy, they just irritate my ears, everyone is different. I tried Radians custom molded ear plugs and they are the best ear plugs I have ever used. You can order these online or find them in the ear protection aisle at gun shops like Sportsman's Warehouse. I ordered the neck cord with mine.

http://www.radians.com/main/p-282-ra...-earplugs.aspx

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Old 05-07-2012, 12:59 PM   #63963
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Originally Posted by Rugby4life View Post
Back to my question from earlier today, does anyone know if the 17t sprocket from the V-strom will fit the DR650?
No. The Vstrom sprockets will not fit the DR650.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:06 PM   #63964
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waldo308 View Post
ER70:

You're right about that! The left one came out easily. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the right one without damaging the carb. Tried soaking the area in PB Blaster and pounding my screwdriver handle with a plastic mallet while trying to turn the screw but it has not budged at all. I stopped when the screw started to show some signs of getting ready to strip out.

I'm still trying to figure out how to hold it in a vise and use an impact driver without doing damage. I really don't want to end up buying a new carb just because of this cable issue. I'll definitely replace them with socket head cap screws like you did.

Now I just gotta find out where to get a replacement bracket.
I've never had to remove those screws before, but my suggestion would be to use those baby sized slip joint pliers (channel locks) on the outside of the screw heads, those things will likely give you the best bite.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-ignit...p-00904513000P

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Old 05-07-2012, 01:15 PM   #63965
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
I agree that the chain and rear bearings are next on the list to replace. My old XL600 had 25k miles on bearings, but maybe they don't make 'em like they used to?
In that vein, look at the top of your chain by the front sprocket when the vibes are happening.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:33 PM   #63966
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Been here, done this: (still not fixed)
sometime recently Adv Grifter said that some DRs can have an aggressive chain whipping, so I'm stuck here for now.
I wonder how many of the 3rd gear failures are caused by this, will I be one of them?
Hard to diagnose this one. Complex, lots of variables. Maybe when you pulled the clutch ... you did not get back on correctly? Or it's not torqued down?
Are you sure you've not mixing 520 sizes with 525 sizes?
Your "vibration" sort of sounds like a clutch basket issue. Kind of a low, rumble, not metalic. At your mileage you may need to replace clutch basket.

Clutch basket rumble is always eliminated or lessened by keeping RPM's UP. But a bad sprocket or chain acts very much the same. Hard to diagnose.

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Regards the DR650 chain guide and "chain whipping". ALL chains whip up and down at certain loads or RPM's. Ride next to your buddy and keep an eye on his chain. If chain is TOO TIGHT ... then you may not see any "whipping". But at correct adjustment movement is Normal.

Adding the rubber strip quiets things down a lot.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:34 PM   #63967
Seventy One
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What top racks are you guys running with your Gen2 Wolfman saddlebag racks? It looks like there is just two aftermarket top racks that work with it; the one from PW and the Wolfman.

I have an Ebay BBQ rack and it's just not working with these racks. The added brace on the Gen2 racks (right side) causes a lot of interference and just does not work unless you use every spacer in the kit. Even then, it's sits crooked and extends out a little too far from the bike IMO.

Question #2. How well does the Gen1 Wolfman saddle bag racks work with the BBQ rack? If they work better, I'd be willing to trade a brand new set of Gen2 racks for a Gen1 Wolfman set-up.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:36 PM   #63968
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Been here, done this: (still not fixed)

My vibration started sometime after I replaced the stock chain with an EK (and both sprockets 15-42 with after market), 22,024 miles. It started slowly and I had to think back to what I may have changed. I thought "How can it be the chain, I have less than a thousand miles on it?" Ride more, slowly worsening, tried a new 14t, tried a new 16t, nope.

This is NOT a buzzing, tolerable vibration. The frequency is as if I had the wrong pitch sprockets and the chain is slipping across the tips under certain load conditions (maintaining a speed going up hill). But is isn't a hard metal on metal, it's more like the sprockets are a very hard rubber. Something like an air hammer with a rubber tip. I feel it most in the pegs, which are still rubber mounted. I don't think the rubber in the pegs is causing the softer impact, if it was metallic, I hear and feel it. Sorry about the careless typing, no repeated 'preview post' this time.

In a nutshell:

new rear wheel bearings at 20,800 (Moose kit)

new chain 22,024

24,276 removed the clutch cover to check the primary nut, also removed the clutch

somewhere in here I put the original rear sprocket back on

26,601 replaced the hub cushions, cleaned and greased the caliper pins, put the new rear sprocket back on, replaced the rear knobby with a used dual sport tire

26,848 after reading about MAD's destroyed bearing, removed clutch cover and clutch to check input shaft bearing, back to knobbies: front D606, rear T-63

Put the original chain (22k miles) back on, took a 200 mile ride, problem is gone :-)

inst new DID chain 27,210 with oem sprockets 15-42

28,881 it's still vibrating, replaced the 3 rear bearings with oem, reusing the old seals to double seal them, new hub cushions

NordieBoy had a 3rd gear failure and has been very careful to keep the rpm higher than he did before

so now I spin 'er up a little more

sometime recently Adv Grifter said that some DRs can have an aggressive chain whipping, so I'm stuck here for now.
I wonder how many of the 3rd gear failures are caused by this, will I be one of them?

I found this damage:





I rotated the damage up for the photo. It's just inside the spacer (#19) and where the left wheel bearing rides (there have been two new bearings there since this started). The arrow is pointing where the damage is when the chain snail is adjusted for chain tension. I don't know why the axle shows black in the first two pics; it's well greased and slides in and out easily.





That is a very strange wear spot. Are your spokes tight? Have you balanced your rims? I've been gone a few days and came back to this and have been reading thru. Just trying to think why this would happen. What are you using for a fastener on the front sprocket? Is the new chain a clip or press type? Did you measure with a dial caliper the links in the chain prior to install? Across the link. Thinking out loud here, if you already answered these.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:08 PM   #63969
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
What top racks are you guys running with your Gen2 Wolfman saddlebag racks? It looks like there is just two aftermarket top racks that work with it; the one from PW and the Wolfman.

I have an Ebay BBQ rack and it's just not working with these racks. The added brace on the Gen2 racks (right side) causes a lot of interference and just does not work unless you use every spacer in the kit. Even then, it's sits crooked and extends out a little too far from the bike IMO.

Question #2. How well does the Gen1 Wolfman saddle bag racks work with the BBQ rack? If they work better, I'd be willing to trade a brand new set of Gen2 racks for a Gen1 Wolfman set-up.
I have Gen1 and the BBQ and have had no problems.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:05 PM   #63970
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
That is a very strange wear spot. Are your spokes tight? Have you balanced your rims? I've been gone a few days and came back to this and have been reading thru. Just trying to think why this would happen. What are you using for a fastener on the front sprocket? Is the new chain a clip or press type? Did you measure with a dial caliper the links in the chain prior to install? Across the link.

Thinking out loud here, if you already answered these.
Just checked my spokes, they're good (and checked regularly), my wheels are always balanced. Front sprocket fastener: first 20k miles with the stock retainer. Noticing that my CSS always wears on the outside, I decided to try the clip and watch where the sprocket would ride on the shaft. Interesting that it rode in toward the motor about 3/16" (IIRC). So I ended up finding that the right side axle adjuster needed to be two clicks shorter on the right, allowing the sprocket to run closer to the e-clip. Once I was happy with that, I put on a new oem retainer and it's what I'm running now.

The DID chain from Procycle is a rivet type. I watched the Motion Pro chain rivet video and was super careful to not over sqeeze the side plate, using my digital caliper to check progress frequently.

Although I didn't measure the chain, it said 525 on the box. Your point is valid, there could have been any size in that box. Later, for someone's question, I took this photo of mine (the cutoff piece). Measuring the sprocket and chain now, both are 5/8" pitch. There is ample side to side freeplay on the sprocket (.050" ?)


Thinking out loud and brainstorming is how we got men on the moon and robots on Mars. Thanks for your input.

Grifter, I didn't miss your points and I'm pondering the clutch basket issue. Do you think that a person would be able to feel that manually with the case cover off? Or would it still have to be under load? MAD's blown bearing was hard to miss once the case cover was off, the clutch moved freely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis
And there's the caveat. I have the MotionPro kit, rivet all my chains, yet the very first time I riveted a chain the riveted link was too tight and failed very early. Learned my lesson, now I use a caliper to measure the correct width between plates and carefully compress the rivets to that distance.
I suggest those new to riveting chains use a caliper and peen the rivets slowly and incrementally.
Lex
This is a good video for those that have missed it:
.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-07-2012 at 03:10 PM
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:13 PM   #63971
Seventy One
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post
I have Gen1 and the BBQ and have had no problems.
Thanks.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:13 PM   #63972
anaud14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anaud14 View Post
Hey guys, I've got a dead DR in my garage and I'm not sure where to begin to revive it.

Two weeks ago I stopped for a break while trail riding, and when I started the bike to head out again, it turned over very weakly. A little while later I stopped for another break, and the bike wouldn't turn over at all, just clicking. Luckily for me I had a ditch between me and the freeway, so I rolled down the hill and was able to bump start and head toward home on the road. I got about 4kms down the road and she started to choke and pop then finally die completely.

My guess was that my battery had finally croaked. Original battery, 26000kms and 4 years old. I bought a new battery and put it in, and she ran great...for 50kms. After the 50 kms I got the exact same problem as before with the popping and dying.

I'm no expert at all with electrical, my best guess is that my battery isn't receiving any sort of a charge. Can anyone point me in the right direction to getting this thing running again?

Alex
I THINK I may have found my problem, but as I said, I'm no electrical guru by any means.

I started with the terminals like you guys suggested, then worked my way to all the wire connections. I found the red wire going into the regulator/rectifier to be extremely corroded, so much that when I lightly touched it, it came apart.

Could this be my issue?
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:19 PM   #63973
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anaud14 View Post
Could this be my issue?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:05 PM   #63974
poppawheelie
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Pissed Gas Cap Vent won't stay on

I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:17 PM   #63975
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
When I owned a KLX250S I bought the Clark oversized tank. Specifically, I purchased a second. (meaning it was a bit discolored and not offered through normal channels.)

It was a leaky POS so I called them back and they sent another one, a production unit, that was also a friggin colander, rather than a tank. Point is, the clark tank had one of those tubes on it and I just yanked it off the clark and installed it onto the Acerbis and it works great. It was the only good thing to come out of that whole debacle.

If anyone needs to strain some pasta I have a clear and black colander for sale that holds over two gallons, at least temporarily...
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