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Old 05-07-2012, 09:00 PM   #63961
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I'd suggest cutting a new gasket from rubber inner tube. It won't deteriorate in gas. I soaked several gasket materials and a bit of rubber inner tube in a jar of gas (with ethanol) for over a year as a test, and it stayed solid.
Damn, I would have lost a lot of money on that bet, ethanol or not.
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:07 PM   #63962
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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heads up to ebay bbq rack users w/ pelicans also bolted to it.

repair my ebay bbq rack supports today. the top tube snapped because i had a pelican 1520 bolted to the top and it was overweight for the stainless bolts i used on the forward mount holes. these bolts snapped and then leverage down to the rear and then the top tubes of supports took the weight and then snapped. only thing left holding the rack was the center fender bolt.

had a guy reweld the top tubes and added this support brace w/ some curved bar he had. it's now stronger than new and i'm using instead grade 10.9 button nose bolts to through bolt to the supports. gotta watch how much weight i put in my pelican but i know the whole thing will be alot stronger now.

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Old 05-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #63963
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
Hmmm ... Super Glue eh! Well mine was well glued with Super Glue ...
it's gone now! Since then the stock IMS inner rubber dam began to fall apart, I've since gone to locking cap with built in venting.

Keep an eye on it ... Super Glue won't last. I reason mine got lost was I would bump it getting on or off bike. A few too many tweaks and the Super Glue cracks ... bye bye $10 vent!
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:00 PM   #63964
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 987
Did a bunch of stuff on the DR this week, getting ready for summer riding. New plugs, air cleaner, fuel filter, fork oil. I checked the valves: all still within specs at 43,000 miles. Only one exhaust valve has needed any attention (at 4,000 miles) and it's been stable like the others since.

I replaced my after market brake pads (EBC) because I couldn't stand them any more. I put Suzuki pads back on and the difference is very noticeable- decent stopping power again. I was trying to save money with the EBC's but for me it was a waste of money.

Among other things I replaced my battery. The old one was fine and only 2.5 years old, but someone here once said they think of batteries as wear items (like tires) and replace them BEFORE they strand them in the backcountry. What a concept! I decided that was a pretty smart thing to do since I've got plans to ride a lot of passes this summer. (A new battery costs less than most tires.)

Another thing I did was replace the swing arm chain buffer. Here's a pic of old and new- 43,000 miles and about 1/2 worn through.



Most of the wear was on the inside edge where it was hard to see.

.............shu
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:09 PM   #63965
Go Irish75
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hmmm ... Super Glue eh! Well mine was well glued with Super Glue ...
it's gone now! Since then the stock IMS inner rubber dam began to fall apart, I've since gone to locking cap with built in venting.

Keep an eye on it ... Super Glue won't last. I reason mine got lost was I would bump it getting on or off bike. A few too many tweaks and the Super Glue cracks ... bye bye $10 vent!
Anyone try smearing the outside of the nipple with a strong Permatex RTV, like the black or even the copper stuff, then slide on the vent tube? Super glue does like rubber to plastic applications, then throw in fuel vapors or even splash of fuel here and there and it's done.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:53 PM   #63966
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
I bought one of these gas cap vents and could not get it to stay on.

The nipple on the cap is tappered, and the hose pops off. I put it on, walked away, and came back to find it on the floor. I tried roughing up the sufaces (even inside the hose) with sand paper, pinching the hose with safety wire... even silicone glue wouldn't hold it on! Problem solved with Super Glue, but I wonder how others may have solved this problem, other than buying the locking cap.
Small zip-tie at the base.
Also I replaced the tube with soft silicon fuel tube (fluro yellow) as then it can expand with the heat instead of popping the breather off onto the ground.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:45 AM   #63967
dljocky
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Yorktown, Va
Oddometer: 849
Yeah, I've lost a few of those $10 vents. Didn't want to go back to the little vent hose cap, but I've had three of those locking IMS caps from Procycle fail in two yrs. The last one failed 800 miles away from home, and it was messy. I was hoping for either a replacement cap or at least a washer.
I'll have to try the inner tube washer.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hmmm ... Super Glue eh! Well mine was well glued with Super Glue ...
it's gone now! Since then the stock IMS inner rubber dam began to fall apart, I've since gone to locking cap with built in venting.

Keep an eye on it ... Super Glue won't last. I reason mine got lost was I would bump it getting on or off bike. A few too many tweaks and the Super Glue cracks ... bye bye $10 vent!
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:10 AM   #63968
larry31
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Seat Height

Does any one know just what is done when "Dealer Seat Height lowering" is done?

I've read in Suzuki DR650 listings that the dealer can lower seat to 33"

None of sales people around here has given me a detailed description of just what is done to lower the seat.
Is it an adjustment under the seat or are they referring to lowering links?
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:24 AM   #63969
Rugby4life
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Upstate SC (GSP area)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Yeah, I've lost a few of those $10 vents. Didn't want to go back to the little vent hose cap, but I've had three of those locking IMS caps from Procycle fail in two yrs. The last one failed 800 miles away from home, and it was messy. I was hoping for either a replacement cap or at least a washer.
I'll have to try the inner tube washer.
FYI- Cycle Gear has them on sale for $4.99. I picked up a few as spares.
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Rugby4life screwed with this post 05-08-2012 at 06:31 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:47 AM   #63970
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
Does any one know just what is done when "Dealer Seat Height lowering" is done?

I've read in Suzuki DR650 listings that the dealer can lower seat to 33"

None of sales people around here has given me a detailed description of just what is done to lower the seat.
Is it an adjustment under the seat or are they referring to lowering links?
The Suzuki gel seat is lower than stock by ~1" without changing anything. It sucks for comfort though. And you can remove the cover and reshape the OEM seat foam to make the seat lower. It too isn't widely considered a comfortable seat.

Lots of info here on ADVRider. Paste this into Google dr650 lowering site:www.advride.com

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176223
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #63971
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry31 View Post
Does any one know just what is done when "Dealer Seat Height lowering" is done?

I've read in Suzuki DR650 listings that the dealer can lower seat to 33"

None of sales people around here has given me a detailed description of just what is done to lower the seat.
Is it an adjustment under the seat or are they referring to lowering links?
There are two settings on the rear shock, a "stock" setting and a lowered setting. They use the lower setting. There are spacers in the front forks that either ride on top of or on bottom of the springs. They move the spacer either to the top of the spring or the bottom of the spring which lowers the front by nearly 1.5 - 2.0 inches. It doesn't have anything to do with the seat; although, you can also purchase the lower seat and get 2 - 3 inches lower ride height overall when combined with the suspension lowering.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:30 AM   #63972
jlmoulto
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Question re: Side Stand

So when my bike was factory height, the bike stood almost completely upright when on the side stand.

I had the bike lowered recently and the stand shortened. It sits exactly the same now. Does the DR normally sit bolt upright on the side stand? I can get the stand shortened, but is there anything else going on?

btw the dampening screw is screwed all the way in (I think I am calling it the right name???) and the adjuster on the shock for the spring is screwed all the way down as well.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:32 AM   #63973
acesandeights
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They stand pretty much upright. Mine is lowered with the lowered stand and still sits almost upright. I think most dirt/adventure bikes do though.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:48 AM   #63974
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
NordieBoy, you are on to something! I am working from home today so I thought I'd grab the video camera and run up the road and back. Most of the time the chain was smooth, but during the vibration it was... well... watch the video:

Check out the slo mo of the chain at the end!



So is there any opinions on this? Is this chain movement normal? Sure doesn't seem normal to me. What could be causing this?
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:06 AM   #63975
larry31
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Seat Lowering

Thank guys!

Now I know. As always, this forum rocks.
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