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Old 05-08-2012, 08:55 PM   #63991
fbga
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Location: Houston, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
Here is an update on my attempt to get the DR back up and running:
It turned down it was indeed the floatbow that was empty. Since I have an inline gas filter and therefore a big loop on the gas hose, it took several attempts to prime the system again. The method applied consisted of removing the hose with the check valve from the top of the gas cap on my IMS tank and blowing on the cap to pressurize the tank. With the check valve back on, we cranked the bike several times to force gas into the carb. We even had to stop and charge the battery again before we could resume the same procedure a few more times. It finally worked and the bike started!! Yay!!!

Now to the next issue:
Bike is backfiring a lot and exhaust pipe is glowing red. Really red! As if it is one step away from becoming liquid metal. (I will post a picture shortly).
I know I've red something about it on this Forum a long time ago. I will have fun with the search engine in a little bit to try and find it again.
I also have a hint that both issues (backfiring and glowing) are connected and probably related to the quality of the mixture the carburetor is putting out.

To do list:
1) Search Advrider for glowing exhaust pipe and a 101 on carb adjustment
2) By seafoam and add to the gas

Cheers

And here is the picture of the glowing pipe

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:12 PM   #63992
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
Here is an update on my attempt to get the DR back up and running:
It turned down it was indeed the floatbow that was empty. Since I have an inline gas filter and therefore a big loop on the gas hose, it took several attempts to prime the system again. The method applied consisted of removing the hose with the check valve from the top of the gas cap on my IMS tank and blowing on the cap to pressurize the tank. With the check valve back on, we cranked the bike several times to force gas into the carb. We even had to stop and charge the battery again before we could resume the same procedure a few more times. It finally worked and the bike started!! Yay!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
Now to the next issue:
Bike is backfiring a lot and exhaust pipe is glowing red. Really red! As if it is one step away from becoming liquid metal. (I will post a picture shortly).
I know I've red something about it on this Forum a long time ago. I will have fun with the search engine in a little bit to try and find it again.
I also have a hint that both issues (backfiring and glowing) are connected and probably related to the quality of the mixture the carburetor is putting out.

To do list:
1) Search Advrider for glowing exhaust pipe and a 101 on carb adjustment
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=11

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
2) By seafoam and add to the gas

Cheers
I just changed out my pilot jet because it's mentioned frequently. I was quite surprised how small the stock 42.5 jet opening is. If you just cleaned your carb and didn't remove the pilot and run something soft thru the jet, it may be plugged. That would also explain why it was so hard to start. If it's plugged and the bike started on the choke circuit, your idle fuel mixture would be quite lean and could cause the glowing pipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
And here is the picture of the glowing pipe

Oh, man, that's so pritty; I'd leave it alone.






J/K for those without a sense of humor.
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2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:27 PM   #63993
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Running the DR inside a garage will get the pipe very red in a very short time. Not unusual. Stainless steel pipe turns red very easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
And here is the picture of the glowing pipe

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:34 PM   #63994
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Question for Procycle:

Since this might interest others, like Notarat, I decided to post instead of PM.
I'm interested in the Supermoto 320mm Brake Rotor Kit.

Do you or your supplier have a matching wave rotor for the rear? I understand it wouldn't have the gold hub, but a matching edge wave and drill pattern would be sweet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Nope. I have not seen a wave rotor for the rear of the DR

HA! Ya tried to get me and failed miserably! And by "failed miserably, I mean I'm saving up for it right after the suspension gets done, you bastard"
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:52 PM   #63995
ER70S-2
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Cool2 Gotchya, OBTW: placed my order

Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
HA! Ya tried to get me and failed miserably! And by "failed miserably, I mean I'm saving up for it right after the suspension gets done, you bastard"
Glad to be of assistance.
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-08-2012 at 10:29 PM
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:20 PM   #63996
Mikey Boy
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Ok so a major electrical crisis happened today. 2011 DR. The license plate light ground and power wires came loose and touched while the bike was running and burned up a bunch wiring. The bike died before i could shut it off. No battery power now. The 30a fuse blew so I replaced that but still no power. The battery terminals are fine and the wiring coating is all burned up but the wires still look ok. I hope the fuses protected the battery from the short but I don't know. I didn't have time to really dig around as I was late and had to jump in my car but tomorrow night I will get some pictures up and hopefully have a clearer idea of what's wrong. Since every problem with a DR had been fixed on this thread I thought I'd post up and see if you fellow inmates can give me some target areas to focus on. I would love to get this fixed myself with some handiwork and electrical tape. I have disconnected the license plate light wiring from the harness but the short went up past that. Ayudame!
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:22 PM   #63997
GISdood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
If I had to guess, I'm thinking he lugs the engine too much, or the cush hub bearings are toast....or both.

Tech23

That's where I'd place my bet. Any idea what condition your cush rubbers are in? I know that when I replaced mine with about 30,000km on the bike it made a noticeable difference towards smoothing out the ride while cruising on the hwy.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:23 PM   #63998
Meter Man
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I've fallen back in love with the DR. Maybe I will pull it off the market....

Seems odd that I can't sell it for 15% below book value in Montana, land of the fireroad......
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:38 PM   #63999
LexTalionis
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WOW! You wore out your rear rotor in about 6,000 less miles (doing the conversion for the U.S. readers) than I wore out my OEM brake pads! I still had 3/32" left on my OEM brake pads and minimal rotor wear at almost 15,000 miles, when I replaced the pads.

You must spend most of your mileage off-road going downhill? My mileage is almost entirely on-road, mostly up/down foothills roads, so mostly front brake use.

I replaced my front OEM pads at 9,100 miles, rotor looked as-new.

I wonder if you fixed a fitment problem when you replaced the rotor. My KLR went through a set of rear pads surprisingly quickly; on inspection I found the brake pad backing plates binding in the caliper, had to hog out the mounting holes a bit.

Lex

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
This any good style wise?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Moto...item460177a4ea



I've got about 30,000 kms on mine now and works well. Seems to be wearing heaps better than the stock one which was trashed at about 15,000 kms

Steve
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:52 PM   #64000
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
How do I edit the guy out of the title.
..........shu
Click 'Edit' on the bottom right of your post. Click 'Go Advanced' on the edit page, still at the bottom right.

Now below the edit window is a row of smilies, you'll see has been clicked. Unclick the button. Don't forget to edit out the rest of the title above the edit window. <--Don't know how he got up here, can't get rid of him
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2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-20-2012 at 12:39 AM
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:53 PM   #64001
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
WOW! You wore out your rear rotor in about 6,000 less miles (doing the conversion for the U.S. readers) than I wore out my OEM brake pads! I still had 3/32" left on my OEM brake pads and minimal rotor wear at almost 15,000 miles, when I replaced the pads.

You must spend most of your mileage off-road going downhill? My mileage is almost entirely on-road, mostly up/down foothills roads, so mostly front brake use.

I replaced my front OEM pads at 9,100 miles, rotor looked as-new.

I wonder if you fixed a fitment problem when you replaced the rotor. My KLR went through a set of rear pads surprisingly quickly; on inspection I found the brake pad backing plates binding in the caliper, had to hog out the mounting holes a bit.

Lex
Dunno why. I got the bike with 11,000 kms and pulled it apart and reassembled to my specs, ie lube everything and torque to spec etc etc and learn the bike. It came with stock pads that were junk so fitted EBC sintered at the time. A couple more sets since, and the stock disc as above. I do tend to use the rear brake a lot, but not so much down hills, the front is much better for that. I'm a rear brake dragger by nature. When I used to do lots of kms at Philip Island and Eastern Creek as a trainer/coach and ride day marshall I'd trash a set of rear pads in less than 1,000 kms on my ZX9R, ie 2 track days.

Dragging the rear brake gently in long corners with power on helps stabilise the bike and maintain drive. Also good in sand to slow down without loading the front to help tip in. Not so important on the low power DR650, but its how I ride. Defintely helps on my road bike, and FE650 Berg too. Slow down with front brake first, then rear brake, then as tipping in, ease front, but maintain rear. Open throttle at apex, or sooner, and release rear brake against throttle to manage drive on exit with brake balanced against throttle.

Steve
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:54 PM   #64002
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
WOW! You wore out your rear rotor in about 6,000 less miles (doing the conversion for the U.S. readers) than I wore out my OEM brake pads! I still had 3/32" left on my OEM brake pads and minimal rotor wear at almost 15,000 miles, when I replaced the pads.

You must spend most of your mileage off-road going downhill? My mileage is almost entirely on-road, mostly up/down foothills roads, so mostly front brake use.
Mud. I'm guessing Berg's DR has seen a lot of mud riding. Mud is Hell on pads and rotors. Eats them up fast. I'd also bet he drags his rear brake a lot, as many off road racers do. (myself included)

I'm still on original rear rotor ... but I haven't measured it. It's most likely worn out. But so what? Just means it gets hot sooner. If it was warped, I'd change it. It's straight and true. I've only ridden a couple hundred miles in mud. I hate it.

I like the look of that Aussie Ebay one. Good price too.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:10 PM   #64003
fbga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Lower your idle rpm, is the idle fuel screw stock? If stock, it won't look like this:


Wow, looks like your idle screw is waaaay out when compared to mine.
I'll snap a picture of mine tomorrow.
I bought the DR in Salt Lake City from a guy that had it jetted and tuned for the SLC elevation. Now that I moved to Houston I need to learn what needs to be done to make it run as is should at sea level...
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:33 PM   #64004
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
If I had to guess, I'm thinking he lugs the engine too much, or the cush hub bearings are toast....or both.

Tech23
BadDogMax's post explained my issues exactly, so I joined in with my trouble shooting. You may have been talking to him, since he posted the video.

I'm not trying to cut in, but I'll add this: I'm an admitted short shifter. But this problem never occurred in the first 22,000 miles. There was no hint of this vibration. It started slowly after replacing the chain with a new EK. After a few thousand miles of that, I put on a new DID. The problem, although lighter at first, has continued. Both chains had/have a riveted master link, done slowly with many digital caliper checks while pressing on the side plate.

Analogy: when someone attacks your swingarm pivot with a jack hammer while riding, you'll know right away 'that ain't right'.

Both rear wheel bearings and the cush hub bearing are new (twice during this) and the hub cushions are also new. Both had zero impact on the problem.
Back to our regular programming.
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2004 DR650: 62,402 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:56 PM   #64005
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I'm guessing lugging the engine, also. Both my DR650 have made a simular noise when running constant speed at low RPM's. New/good chain or not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GISdood View Post
That's where I'd place my bet. Any idea what condition your cush rubbers are in? I know that when I replaced mine with about 30,000km on the bike it made a noticeable difference towards smoothing out the ride while cruising on the hwy.
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