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Old 05-09-2012, 01:44 PM   #64036
Dravintoad
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Well. I can feel vibes in the foot pegs when I ride at certain rpms similar to what is being described. Also, I can tell by the shadow on the road in the morning that my chain jumps around just as much as the video. I put on a new chain and sprockets this week, along with new cush drive rubbers.

I wish I could ride one of these vibration plagued bikes for comparison, but until I do, I'll just assume it in your head.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:25 PM   #64037
fizzerfz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gone fishing View Post
Picked up a 99 last Sat. Previous owner had opened the top of the airbox, installed k&n with foam cover and a dynojet kit using a 160 main. Bike runs great and starts easy. It has the stock muffler on it. I have a fmf q4 laying around that I was thinking about trying out. Have a couple of questions for anybody who has went this route before. First, will I have to go up bigger on the main jet? Bike came with the rest of the dynojet kit so I have a couple bigger ones if needed. Second, other than saving eight or ten pounds, is it worth fooling with?
Thanks,
Fred
No, IMO not worth it unless you like loud pipes and like to repack the muffler. Moreover since you say the bike runs great, just keep riding it.

But if you want to still go over to the FMF you can just try swapping the pipe and then trying it out before going to a bigger jet. Since you have a cut airbox and K&N filter you may get by without a jetting change.

I had a DJ kit on my bike with cut airbox and a K&N filter, but I think my main was smaller than 160...The bike ran good with great mileage. Now I have a FCR
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:30 PM   #64038
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dravintoad View Post

I wish I could ride one of these vibration plagued bikes for comparison, but until I do, I'll just assume it in your head.
It's a big single. I think it's in their heads also. I remember the first time I rode a streetbike after years of offroad experience with moto-x bikes. I thought there was something wrong with the tranny. I could hear it shift. It was just that the motor was so quiet. I think it's more just the nature of the beast. Big single sending individual shock waves at low RPM and high load. I could be all wet also.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:31 PM   #64039
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
Here's my latest theory: the BST carb has a vacuum operated slide that has some resonant frequency where it's most likely to oscillate up/down. The chain on this bike has a very long span, and when stretched with the right tension by acceleration, also has a resonant frequency like a guitar string. When those two resonant frequencies are the same (or perhaps a harmonic of one another) the following sequence happens: the engine fires a pulse, whipping the chain, which causes a jerk back to the engine, which creates vacuum, which causes the carb slide to undershoot, which causes the engine to stumble, which whips the chain, and then the process repeats.

Low RPM lugging would be be basically the same mechanism, except without the added resonance of the chain. So the jackhammering is like a second onset of lugging, once you're past the "normal" lugging you'd get on a BST-equipped DR.

So if my theory holds any water, the million dollar questions is this: Have any of us experiencing the jackhammering drilled the carb slide? This would change the resonant frequency of the slide and perhaps break up the resonance problem.
Still does it with my FCR pumper carb...

I think it's a combination of power pulses and tight/loose links.
My new chain didn't do it for a few thousand km's.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #64040
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gone fishing View Post
Picked up a 99 last Sat. Previous owner had opened the top of the airbox, installed k&n with foam cover and a dynojet kit using a 160 main. Bike runs great and starts easy. It has the stock muffler on it. I have a fmf q4 laying around that I was thinking about trying out. Have a couple of questions for anybody who has went this route before. First, will I have to go up bigger on the main jet? Bike came with the rest of the dynojet kit so I have a couple bigger ones if needed. Second, other than saving eight or ten pounds, is it worth fooling with?
Thanks,
Fred
If its running the stock muffler, I'd try going down to the 155 main. The 160 is really only used with an open pipe.
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:19 PM   #64041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
If its running the stock muffler, I'd try going down to the 155 main. The 160 is really only used with an open pipe.

Thanks for the replys. The FMF came with a 97 I bought last year. I commute on it almost every day. Its stone stock and gets about 60 mpg on my drive to work, so I didnt want to mess with it. I might try the pipe on the 99 but if its really that loud, it won't stay on.
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:50 PM   #64042
cemory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey Boy View Post
Unfortunately it was molested by me while removing the fender and changing the taillight. I dont know how they crossed as I thought I capped them off securely(I should of just unplugged the freakin connector but I was working fast and being stupid). I doubt Suzuki will cover anything on it. I will get a picture up tonight of what i'm dealing with.
Maybe you should just put the original light back on and then take it to the dealer. This is America and you are innocent until proven guilty.

Chris in Topeka
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:16 PM   #64043
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDogMax View Post
... Or, maybe everyone is suffering with the oscillation problem, and some solve it by revving the engine to 8000RPM before shifting?

Just kidding, this vibration is not like the bucking bronco you get when lugging the engine. I think the "jackhammering on the swingarm" description is close.

In fact, if I intentionally lug the engine while accelerating, the bucking bronco will go away as the RPM increases, then suddenly the jackhammering will start at maybe 50-55MPH, then suddenly stop again at 60MPH.

There is no jackhammer at steady state or at medium to full acceleration. Only with gentle acceleration or slight uphill. Not the kind of acceleration you'd normally downshift for, like passing a car, or racing that dude on the DRZ400 who lives in the next housing tract.

Here's my latest theory: the BST carb has a vacuum operated slide that has some resonant frequency where it's most likely to oscillate up/down. The chain on this bike has a very long span, and when stretched with the right tension by acceleration, also has a resonant frequency like a guitar string. When those two resonant frequencies are the same (or perhaps a harmonic of one another) the following sequence happens: the engine fires a pulse, whipping the chain, which causes a jerk back to the engine, which creates vacuum, which causes the carb slide to undershoot, which causes the engine to stumble, which whips the chain, and then the process repeats.

Low RPM lugging would be be basically the same mechanism, except without the added resonance of the chain. So the jackhammering is like a second onset of lugging, once you're past the "normal" lugging you'd get on a BST-equipped DR.

So if my theory holds any water, the million dollar questions is this: Have any of us experiencing the jackhammering drilled the carb slide? This would change the resonant frequency of the slide and perhaps break up the resonance problem.

I have not drilled mine, my carb is stock except for a washer under the needle and a ProCycle mixture screw.

I have the same vibes with the 15t sprocket btw.
The reason I asked if you still have the stock BST 40 CV carb on your bike, and if you cut/modified the top of the air box is because of the routing of the slide chamber atmosphere vent hose/filter. There have been reports this vent hose filter that sits right over a "desnorkled" or cut air box opening can cause surging as it picks up the constant changing of positive and negative pressure waves within the air box. This can add to the slide oscillation that makes the CV carb the POS it is. On the plus side drilling the slide makes for better throttle response because it allows the slide to react faster...on the down side this faster reacting slide can make the oscillation of the slide (surging) even worse. This is why many elect to bypass this step in the Dyno Jet instructions.

I think you may be learning first hand why many pitch the CV carb in favor of a flat slide carb that features a direct connection to the slide as opposed to a pulsing vacuum connection.

Tech23
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:15 PM   #64044
fbga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2


Lower your idle rpm, is the idle fuel screw stock? If stock, it won't look like this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by fbga View Post
Wow, looks like your idle screw is waaaay out when compared to mine.
I'll snap a picture of mine tomorrow.
I bought the DR in Salt Lake City from a guy that had it jetted and tuned for the SLC elevation. Now that I moved to Houston I need to learn what needs to be done to make it run as is should at sea level...
Here is the picture of the idle screw on mine:
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:53 PM   #64045
TRAVELGUY
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You have to disassemble the forks. It you go online and download the service mamual it gives very good instructions for the lowering operation. That's what I did. Just moving the spacer to under the springs will not change the ride hieght.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
On top of the spring or under the damper rod.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:09 PM   #64046
zdiver1
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Steel Braided brake lines

http://www.kientech.com/GalferWaveRotor.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Question for Procycle:

Since this might interest others, like Notarat, I decided to post instead of PM.
I'm interested in the Supermoto 320mm Brake Rotor Kit.

Do you or your supplier have a matching wave rotor for the rear? I understand it wouldn't have the gold hub, but a matching edge wave and drill pattern would be sweet.

If your brakes lines are stock rubber, I would try the (PC) Steel Braided brake lines front and rear the braking power is so much better, I do not want the larger front rotor but when the time comes I will get the gaffler front and rear wave rotors.

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Old 05-09-2012, 08:38 PM   #64047
UberKul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemory View Post
Maybe you should just put the original light back on and then take it to the dealer. This is America and you are innocent until proven guilty.

Chris in Topeka
Kidding right?
If not, I would never buy anything you are selling.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #64048
goodcat8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Question for Procycle:

Since this might interest others, like Notarat, I decided to post instead of PM.
I'm interested in the Supermoto 320mm Brake Rotor Kit.

Do you or your supplier have a matching wave rotor for the rear? I understand it wouldn't have the gold hub, but a matching edge wave and drill pattern would be sweet.

Im not sure what it is but I have this.




http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789569
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:48 PM   #64049
Mikey Boy
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This is the worst of the damage. Not too bad actually. The bare wires are the license plate light wires since the housing on those is what burned up. The wiring harness is fine. I put a new 30a fuse in and turned the battery on and the fuse blew so hopefully that means the battery is fine and the wires are shorting the fuse out. The headlight fuses are fine and the it looks like just the mid section from the 30a fuse box to the green connector under the gas tank is fried. Everything else looks good.






Would a short like this get into the battery?
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:56 PM   #64050
Olas
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The battery is probably fine...get that fixed ASAP and don't try turning the bike on anymore until it's fixed.
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