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Old 05-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #64201
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Ideally I would find a higher horsepower version of the DR (oh, I don't know... like if Africa Twins were common in this country?), or even the KLE500 would probably do well (again, never sold in this country - I've been starving for a multi-cylinder true dual-sport for quite a while now... like decades). So I have to settle for a single cylinder. So then my choices are something exotic that has funny expensive parts that wear out before they should (KTM, BMW Dakar), or go with the tried and true, then get a 790 kit for it and hope that fits the bill.
Read this thread before you long for an Africa Twin or F800 or F650 BMW!
This guy is traveling though S. America with the AT and BMW riders. The DR has been the most reliable of the bunch. (no real surprise given the tough conditions) A great ride report:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627428

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
And thank you, as well, Grifter.
You're welcome!
The Spring is just the start. The stock shock should be rebuilt or replaced . But for droning Fla freeways ... a heavier spring will do to start.

"No Oil use" refers to my engine. After you've read a few hundred pages here you'll see the pattern. These bike rarely lose compression and rarely use any oil. Period.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #64202
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
LOL, I bet it gets even better/worse when I'd ask a similar question mid-winter when I'm out riding and most people here are snowed in.




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:48 PM   #64203
Fitryder
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Snapped axel holder bolts

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knew where to get some spare axle holder bolts (front suspension)

Got a little too keen when tightening and snapped one clean off and noticed the other one had some cracking so thought I would also replace it.

Basically screwed them out (they are not welded on in case some thought they were)

Now just after some spare bolts but god they are hard to find. If all else fails I will just go to the hardware store and cut some screws down to size but prefer the genuine part.

Oh and yes, I have since invested in a torque wrench

Anyway, pic below of the bolts I'm after.



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Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #64204
zdiver1
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Wicked Wtf!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post




What is that white shit it looks like an outbreak! hope it never comes to Peoria AZ.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:01 PM   #64205
zdiver1
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Not DR related but F-up!

My son is getting ready to go to UTI to become a Diesel mechanic he is a disabled Iraq vet so he received a letter today from the VA that he is declined because he did not contribute into his account from 1970 to 1974 he poped out of the x-wifes snapper in 1986 this Army and VA is F-UP!
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:03 PM   #64206
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkSteel View Post
Is there any way to hard wire a GPS that would normally use a cigarette lighter plug? Can you just cut off the plug and splice the wires or is there some sort of a transformer in that plug? I'm thinking specifically of a basic Garmin unit meant for cars.

Thanks!
Check to see if you can find the pin-out/wiring diagram of the the 12v Cigarette lighter plug you mentioned. then just use the 12v, remote, and ground if those are all you need. I can't help there because I haven't yet ripped my power cable apart.

As for the wiring, here's a very basic how-to, depending on whether you use an SPDT or SPST relay to wire it up.



Some Important Things to Remember

1 - The stock lighting, ignition and battery charging consumes about 140 watts of the DR650s power output. You only have about 55-60 watts to use, unless you have replaced your incandescent bulbs with LEDs.

2 - Convert your wattage load to AMPS to determine the size(thickness) of the wiring to use. The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

Example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp You have ~50watts to play with so...you have only about 4 amps and change to power your electronics with.

3 - You can use a standard 12V 40Amp relay like those in a car...just remember that if you do not fuse it properly, you can pull far more power than your bike can generate causing a dead battery.


Generic Example of very basic wiring connection below. using a 12v 40A SPST Relay with a detailed explanation following (Ignore valet switch info...pulled this schematic from a car alarm site)


Using a Relay to Power a 12v Socket to Power/Charge an Accessory like iPod/ Phone or GPS or Charger



SPST Relay - 1 or more outlets powered when the Key is On

  • Pole 30 - Add up the wattage of the items you're going to be powering, making sure NOT to exceed ~50watts (unless you replaced all your bulbs with LEDs) Convert that amount to amps to determine the size of the fuse you'll need for the inline fuse. Place the fuse between the 12v POSITIVE of your battery and Pole 30. Place that fuse as close to the battery as possible. Use the appropriate gauge of wire for this cable. (NOTE: The Shorai Li battery is so small you can place the relay and inline fuse in the battery box with the battery.)
  • Pole 85 -- Connect to your battery's NEGATIVE terminal. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. (You can choose to connect this to the NEGATIVE connector of the extra power connection that is behind the headlight. Personally, I wouldn't)
  • Pole 87 - The wire coming out of Pole 87 is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. If your electronic item has a remote IN wire in addition to 12v + and - you can connect it to this connection. (example: Car Amplifier has + and - and REM...you can connect + and REM to this pole and both will receive 12v when the key is in the ON position)
  • Pole 86 - Connect this to the 12v + connector of the extra power plug behind the headlight, using the same gauge wire as your other wires. When the key is turned to the ON position, it flips the relay inside and sends power to Pole 87 straight from the battery to your accessory outlet. When you turn off the key, the relay flips back to stand-by, cutting power to anything that you had connected to 87, turning the power off.

Here's where it can get fun, and frustrating...

SPDT Relay - 1 or more outlets powered when the Key is in the ON position, and 1 or more outlets powered ONLY when the Key is in the OFF position(i.e.Constant 12v Power).

  • Pole 30 - Add up the wattage of the items you're going to be powering, making sure NOT to exceed ~50watts (unless you replaced all your bulbs with LEDs) Convert that amount to amps to determine the size of the fuse you'll need for the inline fuse. Place the fuse between the 12v POSITIVE of your battery and Pole 30. Place that fuse as close to the battery as possible. Use the appropriate gauge of wire for this cable. (NOTE: The Shorai Li battery is so small you can place the relay and inline fuse in the battery box with the battery.)
  • Pole 85 -- Connect to your battery's NEGATIVE terminal. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. (You can choose to connect this to the NEGATIVE connector of the extra power connection that is behind the headlight. Personally, I wouldn't)
  • Pole 87 - The wire coming out of Pole 87 is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. Use the same gauge of wire for this cable as you did for Pole 30. If your electronic item has a remote IN wire in addition to 12v + and - you can connect it to this connection. (example: Car Amplifier has + and - and REM...you can connect + and REM to this pole and both will receive 12v when the key is in the OFF position)
  • Pole 86 - Connect this to the 12v + connector of the extra power plug behind the headlight, using the same gauge wire as your other wires. When the key is turned to the ON position, it flips the relay inside and sends power straight from the battery + to your accessory outlet(s). When you turn off the key, the relay flips back to stand-by, cutting power to anything that you had connected to 87, turning them off...It then energizes any outlets connected to 87a. KEEP IN MIND that 87a is ALWAYS ENERGIZED when the key is in the OFF position.
  • Pole 87a - The wire coming out of Pole 87a is the one supplying 12v + to the cigarette lighter socket or USB connector or whatever you use to power your accessory. In this instance, It ONLY does so when the Key is in the OFF position.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:04 PM   #64207
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
What is that white shit it looks like an outbreak! hope it never comes to Peoria AZ.
Yeah, well, I'll be riding for the next four months while you're hiding in the nearest air conditioned movie theater.
Wednesday at 11,600 feet fer instance:

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2004 DR650: 59,809 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 10:30 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:16 PM   #64208
notarat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
My son is getting ready to go to UTI to become a Diesel mechanic he is a disabled Iraq vet so he received a letter today from the VA that he is declined because he did not contribute into his account from 1970 to 1974 he poped out of the x-wifes snapper in 1986 this Army and VA is F-UP!
Just have him fax them a copy of one of his LES statements showing the entry where he paid in, and possibly copy4 (Service member's copy) of his DD-214 showing his dates of service.

If they're anything like us Navy types they'll hand the updated paperwork to someone whose head isn't up their ass and get it processed and approved that day most likely.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:20 PM   #64209
zdiver1
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Nope!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Yeah, well, I'll be riding for the next four months while you're hiding in the nearest air conditioned movie theater.
I have a cooling vest and I ride all year around! next week I will be riding up to prescott with my son and camping in the woods riding up the back way yarnell hill. and the next week I will be doing a hot desert ride to the sea of cortez, MX via Ajo and back around to san carlos mx and Tucson. the hotter the better as I work out in the heat every day till june-2016 retirerment!

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-12-2012 at 10:35 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:32 PM   #64210
zdiver1
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He reapplied today online!

Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
Just have him fax them a copy of one of his LES statements showing the entry where he paid in, and possibly copy4 (Service member's copy) of his DD-214 showing his dates of service.

If they're anything like us Navy types they'll hand the updated paperwork to someone whose head isn't up their ass and get it processed and approved that day most likely.
It took him a year to get his disabilty (60 %) he had a purple heart a bronze star and two army
accommodation medals. and Arizona makes him pay $25. extra. a year for his Purple heart plate. This is F-UP

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-13-2012 at 07:15 AM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:34 PM   #64211
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
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Pick-up Coil Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post


Awesome Dave. Please copy this into Krusty's DR650 index. Perhaps under Problems/Failures since the DR is getting some higher mileages now-a-days. (yours had how many?)

Great tip on being able to do this in the field.
2006 DR had 41K miles when the pick-up coil had an open circuit. The symptoms were no spark, no start, no run.

Dave

smilin jack screwed with this post 05-16-2012 at 07:40 PM
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:48 PM   #64212
ER70S-2
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2004 DR650: 59,809 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #64213
LexTalionis
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Also consider a very small telescoping magnet. If I have it available, I use compressed air to start with. Then pull plug ... very carefully. Then I use my tiny magnet to collect any sand or debris the compressed air missed from around the plug hole.
Hey, Adv Grifter, I need an education on this. I've walked on and laid on lots of sand, but none have been magnetic, to my knowledge. My understanding is, sand is generally silicon dioxide and / or calcium carbonate. I believe neither of these compounds are magnetic. Neither are common "dirt" and small pebbles. What say you?

Also, personally, I use ~200psi to blow out the area around the plugs before removal; there's no way anything will be left for a "tiny magnet" to pick up.

Lex
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:10 PM   #64214
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks so mu Kommando, and you too alonzo.

I just made a call on this one:

2002 DR650



Certainly older, and more stock, but with a DG exhaust, jetted with a 160, and lower miles. Might be able to get it for the mid-$2000 range.

I don't know about these super-low-mile DR's here in Florida... seems tough to believe.
That DR looks a lot like mine did. Mine now has a white IMS tank, a blue YZF front fender, and a Suzuki rack with a Givi plate on it...among other things.

A lot of FL riders don't seem to actually put a lot of miles on their bikes unless they commute on them. A lot of riders also ride either big-displacement streetbikes or small-displacement dirtbikes. They don't often ride 650-class thumper dualsports. I'm guessing it's because these are considered, "working too hard" by both crowds. They must park/sell them soon after getting them and finding out they're not top performers at either slab or dirt in stock trim.

Other people have other circumstances. My '03 DR had 9K miles on it when I bought it this past autumn. I've almost doubled that mileage already. The PO loved riding it, but he had young kids and a wife he also seemed to like spending time with. He also let it sit for a while before selling, after 2 of his riding buddies got killed in separate collisions within a month of each other. I hope he had as much fun in his 9K miles on this thing as I've had in my 9K miles on it.

I get some strange looks riding my DR on the highways...2up...with luggage. Then I got some strange looks from the ATV and dirtbike crowd, riding some sandy quad trails with street-biased tires, 2 weeks ago. I guess people don't realize how versatile these bikes can be, especially if you put some work into them. Except for the tires I have on right now (front is WAY dirt-biased), my current setup is better in the dirt AND on the highway than when stock. I'm pretty much a novice dirt rider, yet this bike has taken me everywhere I've tried to go with it, pretty easily even. Mine runs down the slab nicely too.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:13 PM   #64215
smilin jack
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Missed Steps and Photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hey Dave, I think you missed a few steps!

Which "screws" come out?
Where is the Pick Up Coil? Attached to Stator?
Where is the new Coil for comparison?
Does the whole Stator come out?
How does the Pick UP coil disconnect/re-connect from/to the Stator?

Thanks!
Yes, seems some of the steps you speak of should have been put in.
I had the new pick-up coil in hand so found the OEM pick-up coil screwed inside of the stator cover. It was held in place with two philips screws. The stator is not disturbed.
The pick-up coil is not part of the stator. It is off to the side of the stator. The magnet (round disk on the end of the crankshaft fits in between the stator and pick-up coil.
The two wires from the pick-up coil pass thru a rubber grommet to exit the stator cover and continue inside the wiring harness to the CDI box.

Dave
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