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Old 05-14-2012, 07:45 AM   #64291
Rugby4life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
Met a fellow DR rider this afternoon, Rugby4life, on his way from SC to New Orleans. He was riding his DR, loaded down and makin' tracks.

Safe travels buddy and call me before you head home so I can give you a more scenic route option for the return trip.
I really enjoyed meeting you also. It was a timely break to refresh myself (and dry out a little). I was amazed at how similar our lives are and thanks for the encouragement to keep plugging away at my studies. Remember when I said that DR stands for Doesn't Refuse whatever you ask it to do? Well, when I got to NOLA I gave it a look over and found the CCT gasket leaking. Right now it's just a nuisance weep but I'll keep an eye on my oil level until I can get home and fix it properly. Looking forward to taking the road less traveled on the way home.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:43 AM   #64292
FatChance
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
LOL, I bet it gets even better/worse when I'd ask a similar question mid-winter when I'm out riding and most people here are snowed in.
It gets real miserable here in the summer. Sometimes it gets to almost 90 degrees and the humidity can climb to 10%.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:08 AM   #64293
notarat
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Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
It gets real miserable here in the summer. Sometimes it gets to almost 90 degrees and the humidity can climb to 10%.
I hate you. 119F + 90%+ humidity = a heat index of ~140f or thereabouts...
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:27 AM   #64294
fizzerfz1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post



fizzerfz1 Please tell me you didn't willingly walk into a store to purchase that "Ronco one size fits all socket" with the intent of working on your motorcycle. Someone was holding a gun to your head......right?

If you should need to replace the clutch cover, the price would have easily covered a set of 1/4 metric sockets deep and shallow, a ratchet and assorted extensions. I know I could never trust a JB welded clutch cover to keep motor oil off my rear tire.

Tech23
Nope. I had the universal socket from a long time and just used it without thinking too much...you can also call it as being lazy...

I am not going to replace the cover. Doesn't seem that bad. I will just put this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/j-b-stik-weld-93957.html (I already have this) or JB weld if necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Yea, cheese and crackers man ! Look at that socket size he used . Use 1/4 inch drive 8mm socket next time. 10nm. He is using a sledge hammer to drive a finishing nail !

Its an upper bolt so he'll probably get away with it like you said Z. Maybe.
Yup, cheese cracker it is. And the socket is not as big as it looks in the pic, but it IS big for the said job. If you read my original post about this issue, I had actaully put up this picture as a caution to others and suggestions on how to avoid it.

Agree on the 1/4 inch drive socket and have already bought and used it successfully and even put the whole together. Bike is riding perfect now, even without a bolt at the place where I broke it. No oil leaks so far.

I will post pics when I am done with the JB weld fix.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:29 AM   #64295
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Did I mention the time in 1983 when working on my 81 Z1000J (refitting the newly ported head) and trying to torque one of the 6 mm bolts on the end of each head to 105 ft/lbs torque.
That was the day I learned about looking more closely at the manual and what " in/lbs " were.
I still remember thinking at the time,they must be special steel.

LOL that would be beyond tough steel.

Back in the early eighties at work while assembling a VW cylinder head mounted in the special tool that holds the valves up so the springs and keepers may be easily assembled...not thinking I proceeded to install the camshaft and torque down the cam bearing caps. With the head still bolted to the special tool and no way for the valves to open I snapped that camshaft like a twig.....Oppps. Yea never did that again.

My boss was pretty cool though...one day he walks over to my work station and see's I'm replacing a leaking crankshaft oil seal behind the timing belt sprocket. He say's to me..."Don't forget to torque that crank sprocket bolt to blue torque!" He had been in the Military and I was just a kid that looked up to him, I'm thinking there must be some Military type application for "blue torque". Not knowing what he was talking about and not wanting to screw something up I asked him....What's blue torque?? He says to me "tighten that sucker till your face turns blue", laughs and pats me on the back. True story.

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Old 05-14-2012, 10:35 AM   #64296
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Or torquing the steering triple clamp bolts to spec in my 1400GTR and thinking it was a lot. Proved that the manual is wrong by breaking one.

We've all broken something.

Steve
Over tightening Triple Clamp bolts is especially bad ... its easy to "crush" the delicate (and expensive) fork tube. Not good!
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #64297
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
Nope. I had the universal socket from a long time and just used it without thinking too much...you can also call it as being lazy...

I am not going to replace the cover. Doesn't seem that bad. I will just put this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/j-b-stik-weld-93957.html (I already have this) or JB weld if necessary.



Yup, cheese cracker it is. And the socket is not as big as it looks in the pic, but it IS big for the said job. If you read my original post about this issue, I had actaully put up this picture as a caution to others and suggestions on how to avoid it.

Agree on the 1/4 inch drive socket and have already bought and used it successfully and even put the whole together. Bike is riding perfect now, even without a bolt at the place where I broke it. No oil leaks so far.

I will post pics when I am done with the JB weld fix.

Chalk it up to experience. Like the others have said being up top you'll likely be OK. At least it will be easy to monitor for any oil seepage if any at all. Still will have to that that area with kid gloves on any future removal/service.

Over the years I have repaired customers vehicles with two part epoxy's. IIRC my boss kept a product on hand called Marine Tex. I believe it was used for boat hull repair. After it had cured you could drill and tap it. This was something the customer elected to do to save money on a new transmission case half after their clutch came apart scraping a groove into the case causing gear oil to leak into the bell housing. Just filling a groove...not gluing a broken off piece back on. I think you will need to be sure that the bolt hole opening where the head of the case bolt makes contact is as flat/smooth as possible (no excess JB weld squishing out). The bolt must be able to apply an even clamping force or it could break the repair.

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Old 05-14-2012, 11:07 AM   #64298
Tech23
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Over tightening Triple Clamp bolts is especially bad ... its easy to "crush" the delicate (and expensive) fork tube. Not good!

Agreed, Especially on pinch style bolts like triple clamps, ATC/TRX rear axle bearing housings I usually sneak up on the specified torque spec in increments...or use the lower end of the torque spec if a range is specified. Also on two or three bolt style triple clamps tighten each bolt gradually...alternating bolts & sneaking up on the spec. Never fully tighten one to spec then move on to the next. Not sure why, but it always seems like the published torque on pinch bolts is flirting with disaster...at least it feels that way.

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Old 05-14-2012, 11:07 AM   #64299
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Not needed with a lightly loaded DR.
Exactly.
33 PSI won't keep the tire cooler, you'll just wear the center prematurely. Look at what Suzuki recommend: 22 PSI front, 25 PSI rear. This is for stock Bridgestone Trail Wing tires, a good 50/50 tire. For a long time I thought these pressures were TOO LOW (many do). But after a half dozen sets of various tires run at various pressures, I've come back to running PSI very close to Suzuki's recommendations using road tires, and nearly exactly those pressures with 50/50 tires.

The DR650 only weighs about 365 lbs. WET. (without luggage). Compare that to the true wet weight of most other street bikes. The DR650 is a light weight bike. Its tires do not get all that hot, even in Death Valley running at 75 mph in 118F heat. I run a couple PSI more due to MY weight (above the weight of the rider Suzuki consider "average" for the DR650: 150 lbs.)

The 705 Shinko is a more "road oriented" tire with fairly stiff side walls. Running correct pressures will provide great handling and a more plush ride as your tire aids in bump/shock absorption. Always follow motorcycle manufacturers recommended pressure OVER tire manufacturer listed MAX pressure.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:08 PM   #64300
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Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:12 PM   #64301
asrvivor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?
Check Flew Market on here. I've seen some for sale.

Search in google like this - DR650 plastic /advrider

if you put the /advrider in there it becomes much more specific. I see a few when looking, but ain't gonna go thru all of them. That's for you to do.......
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:16 PM   #64302
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Thanks. Don't want used though, I want new. I would say my used plastic is in 80% shape or better already, except for a few more defined scars on the left side rear panel and left side of the rear fender from a lowside. It will soon be for sale in the flea market
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:27 PM   #64303
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?

I've been using Service Honda for years, rock solid reliable and prices are good too.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_select.asp

I've noticed Ron Ayers prices are just a tad lower on some stuff although I have never used them. Everyone that has seems to be satisfied with their service.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche

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Old 05-14-2012, 01:30 PM   #64304
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I have used ron ayers, they are always good. The price for these plastics from them is $304 shipped from them though. I think powersportsplus.com is the cheapest I am going to find. I ordered my last R6 throttle tube from them just recently, got it very quickly and they were the cheapest I could find for that as well.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:37 PM   #64305
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Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Thanks. Don't want used though, I want new. I would say my used plastic is in 80% shape or better already, except for a few more defined scars on the left side rear panel and left side of the rear fender from a lowside. It will soon be for sale in the flea market
Try here. http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/suzu...?aribrand=SUZ#
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