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Old 05-14-2012, 12:07 PM   #64291
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Not needed with a lightly loaded DR.
Exactly.
33 PSI won't keep the tire cooler, you'll just wear the center prematurely. Look at what Suzuki recommend: 22 PSI front, 25 PSI rear. This is for stock Bridgestone Trail Wing tires, a good 50/50 tire. For a long time I thought these pressures were TOO LOW (many do). But after a half dozen sets of various tires run at various pressures, I've come back to running PSI very close to Suzuki's recommendations using road tires, and nearly exactly those pressures with 50/50 tires.

The DR650 only weighs about 365 lbs. WET. (without luggage). Compare that to the true wet weight of most other street bikes. The DR650 is a light weight bike. Its tires do not get all that hot, even in Death Valley running at 75 mph in 118F heat. I run a couple PSI more due to MY weight (above the weight of the rider Suzuki consider "average" for the DR650: 150 lbs.)

The 705 Shinko is a more "road oriented" tire with fairly stiff side walls. Running correct pressures will provide great handling and a more plush ride as your tire aids in bump/shock absorption. Always follow motorcycle manufacturers recommended pressure OVER tire manufacturer listed MAX pressure.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:08 PM   #64292
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Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:12 PM   #64293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?
Check Flew Market on here. I've seen some for sale.

Search in google like this - DR650 plastic /advrider

if you put the /advrider in there it becomes much more specific. I see a few when looking, but ain't gonna go thru all of them. That's for you to do.......
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:16 PM   #64294
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Thanks. Don't want used though, I want new. I would say my used plastic is in 80% shape or better already, except for a few more defined scars on the left side rear panel and left side of the rear fender from a lowside. It will soon be for sale in the flea market
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #64295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Whats the cheapest online site for OEM suzuki parts? I am looking to replace my rear side panels, rear fender, and headlamp housing. So basically all the plastic except the front fender.

The cheapest I have found for these items is $263 shipped from powersportsplus.com after 5% coupon code.

Anyone know of a cheaper place?

I've been using Service Honda for years, rock solid reliable and prices are good too.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_select.asp

I've noticed Ron Ayers prices are just a tad lower on some stuff although I have never used them. Everyone that has seems to be satisfied with their service.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche

Tech23
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:30 PM   #64296
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I have used ron ayers, they are always good. The price for these plastics from them is $304 shipped from them though. I think powersportsplus.com is the cheapest I am going to find. I ordered my last R6 throttle tube from them just recently, got it very quickly and they were the cheapest I could find for that as well.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:37 PM   #64297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Thanks. Don't want used though, I want new. I would say my used plastic is in 80% shape or better already, except for a few more defined scars on the left side rear panel and left side of the rear fender from a lowside. It will soon be for sale in the flea market
Try here. http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/suzu...?aribrand=SUZ#
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:41 PM   #64298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I've been using Service Honda for years, rock solid reliable and prices are good too.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_select.asp

I've noticed Ron Ayers prices are just a tad lower on some stuff although I have never used them. Everyone that has seems to be satisfied with their service.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche

Tech23
Definitely +1 on Service Honda. I used them for all the hard to get stuff when I did my frame-off restoration on my old 1998 YZ250K1.

They were the cheapest, in some cases by FAR. Especially the OEM Yamaha Complete Crank Assembly and OEM Bearings. (it was still over $600 for those though, lol )
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:44 PM   #64299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
I have used ron ayers, they are always good. The price for these plastics from them is $304 shipped from them though. I think powersportsplus.com is the cheapest I am going to find. I ordered my last R6 throttle tube from them just recently, got it very quickly and they were the cheapest I could find for that as well.

Plastic body parts are kinda expensive, you almost have to grit your teeth and bare it. Might luck out and find someone with used excellent condition plastic after a change of color scheme. None of the aftermarket plastic makers make anything for Dual Sports, just the race bikes.

How is that R6 throttle tube working out? I've wanted a quick turn throttle for my DR but I've read mixed reviews on how that R6 tube fits and functions with some experiencing sticking (idle stop) issues.

Tech23
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:03 PM   #64300
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notarat View Post
Definitely +1 on Service Honda. I used them for all the hard to get stuff when I did my frame-off restoration on my old 1998 YZ250K1.

They were the cheapest, in some cases by FAR. Especially the OEM Yamaha Complete Crank Assembly and OEM Bearings. (it was still over $600 for those though, lol )
In addition to purchasing regular maintenance parts for all my bikes, I used Service Honda when I converted my 2004 CRF 150 into a 230. I gave them all the part numbers, I called them and they double checked my work before placing the order.

They must be a big establishment, to have Tech's that hand build those awesome CR 500AF's and a few more custom bikes too.

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Old 05-14-2012, 04:15 PM   #64301
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
Thanks. Don't want used though, I want new. I would say my used plastic is in 80% shape or better already, except for a few more defined scars on the left side rear panel and left side of the rear fender from a lowside. It will soon be for sale in the flea market
Just a few I've used:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_select.asp
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/home.aspx
Babbit's have some of the best prices but shipping is sky high.

Last time I needed Suzuki OEM parts I went to a tiny independent shop ... who don't work on bikes, just sell gear and accessories. I get a good discount there ... and they can order anything from Suzuki via Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky. They matched Babbit's price, but I had to pay CA sales tax. Over all, I saved about 10% over Babbit's price, which are some of the lowest I have found for OEM Suzuki parts. Go support your local shop and ASK for a discount!

Also try Ron Ayer's:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID.../Model/DR650SE
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:17 PM   #64302
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Good Vibrations

What are you guys doing to reduce handlebar vibrations?

I recently switched to the Fly Aluma-Steel 7/8" bars and vibrations get a bit strong. I want to stay with 7/8" bars as I already have the HDB Clamps for them.. Did purchase just a moment ago the Vibranator (www.vibranator.com), are there any other things I could use as well? Do they make rubber pads for the bar mounts?
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:27 PM   #64303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epix1718 View Post
What are you guys doing to reduce handlebar vibrations?

I recently switched to the Fly Aluma-Steel 7/8" bars and vibrations get a bit strong. I want to stay with 7/8" bars as I already have the HDB Clamps for them.. Did purchase just a moment ago the Vibranator (www.vibranator.com), are there any other things I could use as well? Do they make rubber pads for the bar mounts?
There is a special vibration reduction adjuster to the right of the speedometer. Turn it 1 notch to the left of the normal use setting and all of the vibrations just disappear.
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #64304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzerfz1 View Post
Nope. I had the universal socket from a long time and just used it without thinking too much...you can also call it as being lazy...

I am not going to replace the cover. Doesn't seem that bad. I will just put this stuff http://www.harborfreight.com/j-b-stik-weld-93957.html (I already have this) or JB weld if necessary.



Yup, cheese cracker it is. And the socket is not as big as it looks in the pic, but it IS big for the said job. If you read my original post about this issue, I had actaully put up this picture as a caution to others and suggestions on how to avoid it.

Agree on the 1/4 inch drive socket and have already bought and used it successfully and even put the whole together. Bike is riding perfect now, even without a bolt at the place where I broke it. No oil leaks so far.

I will post pics when I am done with the JB weld fix.
dont sweat ot my friend and no one is judging you. we have all been there! lol good luck with it.

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Old 05-14-2012, 05:59 PM   #64305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Agreed, Especially on pinch style bolts like triple clamps, ATC/TRX rear axle bearing housings I usually sneak up on the specified torque spec in increments...or use the lower end of the torque spec if a range is specified. Also on two or three bolt style triple clamps tighten each bolt gradually...alternating bolts & sneaking up on the spec. Never fully tighten one to spec then move on to the next. Not sure why, but it always seems like the published torque on pinch bolts is flirting with disaster...at least it feels that way.

Tech23
A story from a good mate who does among other things, suspension setup professionally. He was working for the Yamaha Aus road race team a few years ago, doing suspension and rider 'coaching'. Must have been about Jan/Feb 2006 when the then new Yam R6 came into their hands and they were at Eastern Creek testing in preparation for the season.

He had previously installed, among other things, the latest Ohlins fork kit to suit and was amazed that the single bolt bottom triple clamp was specced by Ohlins at 10 nm. 16nm is stock, which isn't a lot, and 10 is not much more than finger tight. He confirmed with Ohlins in Sweden that it wasn't a typo.

For safety sake, and for intial testing, he set the torque at 16 nm. His riders came in to the pits and the main feedback was that they weren't getting enough feel from the front end. We're talking national championship podium level riders, so they are fast, and know what they need.

The bikes were wheeled to the garage and the only changes made were to reduce the torque settings on the bottom triple clamp. The riders were not told what was changed each time, just go and have another go. 16-14-12 and when they went from 12 to 10, the Ohlins spec, the riders were happy, as were the crews. They were suddenly on or below lap record pace bringing the lap times down 3/4 secs and could feel the front end.

2 nm and nothing else, no clickers, nothing else!

Bike setup can be tricky, just ask Vale and JB.

Steve
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