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Old 05-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #64291
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I am going to order one of these Tiny-Tachs soon.
After I save up from my next ProCycle order....
PC gets most of my money.
http://tinytach.com/gasoline.php#
Small, sealed, and under $50.

Does anyone have experience with them?
nope, but you have to throw it away when the battery goes dead.

i would pass...

doug s.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:49 PM   #64292
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Yep, the 705 tires are worth having. I run a few more pounds than the swing arm sticker says.

I run 25 psi front and 28 psi rear solo. It just handles better on corners. Have worn out several sets and enjoy them for highway and gravel roads. The Shinko 244 tires are good too for gravel and dirt but lack a little traction in mud.

Dave
Just the info I was looking for, from someone that's gone through a few sets
and adjusted pressures accordingly...

Thanks Dave !

996DL

996DL screwed with this post 05-13-2012 at 09:10 PM
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:00 PM   #64293
zdiver1
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Jb weld is a bond that is stronger then the cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
looks like you have enough to get a bite on I would try to JB Weld the piece back on let it dry for a few days and get a strait bolt use the proper tool and be careful.
new bolt and as said a washer under the bolt should do it and it is on top. A new cover with tax is over $200.
Tensile Strength:3960
Adhesion:1800
Flex Strength:7320
Tensile Lap Shear:1040
Shrinkage:0.0%
Resistant to:500 F

Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500 F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!
Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine components which normally operate at temperatures
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:11 PM   #64294
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The problem in that situation was the size of the socket meant the head of the bolt was off centre,turning it simply pushed the bolt upward when it pushed into the cover recess and the casting cracked.
Simple leverage.

A close fit washer under the head of a new bolt would probably save the day and some expense.
No one is perfect.
I'm aware of how it happened. Plain and simple, I would avoid spending money on gimmicky tools such as that. You are right about the leverage thing though, bolts don't bend like that without good leverage....LOL. I was just busting on him, from what he posted it sounds like he did learn something from the experience.

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Old 05-13-2012, 09:20 PM   #64295
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Just finished spooning on my first set of Shinko 705's, those of you experienced with these popular tires on the DR, for pure roadie use including high speed highway travel, lightly loaded with a 200 lb rider, should I just stick with the DR's oem 22 front 25 psi rear specs or ?...

996DL
That's a good question. I would perhaps go just a tad over Suzuki recommended pressures, but not much. I would experiment and see how things feel. Do you ride on Rain Grooved pavement at all? With wear, some tires react funny and pressures make a difference. But surprisingly the stock pressures are very close to spot on ... and may be the best.

I'm running my current Anakee set at "about" 24 front, 28 rear. 7K miles on front, 4K on rear so far, so good. About 1000 left on the rear, bit more up front. The Shinko's are nearly as good ... but not quite (if my memory is accurate) Let us know how they perform for you.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:28 PM   #64296
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
I'm aware of how it happened. Plain and simple, I would avoid spending money on gimmicky tools such as that. You are right about the leverage thing though, bolts don't bend like that without good leverage....LOL. I was just busting on him, from what he posted it sounds like he did learn something from the experience.

Tech23
Did I mention the time in 1983 when working on my 81 Z1000J (refitting the newly ported head) and trying to torque one of the 6 mm bolts on the end of each head to 105 ft/lbs torque.
That was the day I learned about looking more closely at the manual and what " in/lbs " were.
I still remember thinking at the time,they must be special steel.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:43 PM   #64297
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
Did I mention the time in 1983 when working on my 81 Z1000J (refitting the newly ported head) and trying to torque one of the 6 mm bolts on the end of each head to 105 ft/lbs torque.
That was the day I learned about looking more closely at the manual and what " in/lbs " were.
I still remember thinking at the time,they must be special steel.
Or torquing the steering triple clamp bolts to spec in my 1400GTR and thinking it was a lot. Proved that the manual is wrong by breaking one.

We've all broken something.

Steve
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:52 PM   #64298
JagLite
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Cool2 Tiny-Tach

Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
nope, but you have to throw it away when the battery goes dead.

i would pass...

doug s.
Yes, I noticed that it has a non-replaceable battery.
However, it is supposed to last 5 year so at $10 a year it seems reasonable to me.
If I found another small, affordable tach that used a replaceable battery I would go for it.
Considering I will probably break anything I install, cheap is good for me
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:19 AM   #64299
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Yes, I noticed that it has a non-replaceable battery.
However, it is supposed to last 5 year so at $10 a year it seems reasonable to me.
If I found another small, affordable tach that used a replaceable battery I would go for it.
Considering I will probably break anything I install, cheap is good for me
i'd query the sellers to werify it will last 5 years when in regular use on a bike, or whether it's only meant to be used occasionally, as a tool...

you can get a new vapor trail tech for yust under $100...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAIL-TECH-V...-/280878220643

doug s.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:05 AM   #64300
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL View Post
Just finished spooning on my first set of Shinko 705's, those of you experienced with these popular tires on the DR, for pure roadie use including high speed highway travel, lightly loaded with a 200 lb rider, should I just stick with the DR's oem 22 front 25 psi rear specs or ?...

996DL
26f/28r to 28f/30r for road.

20f/18r for offroad.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:12 AM   #64301
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
26f/28r to 28f/30r for road.
Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:30 AM   #64302
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Anything wrong with 30 or the max 33 psi in the rear to keep the rubber cool? Heat kills out tires down here in the summer time.
Not needed with a lightly loaded DR.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:06 AM   #64303
greer
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Plug the extra hole in the Slide

Epoxy Putty. Thanks, Steve

Sarah


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Silicone products are not a good idea to use where petrol/gasoline are nearby.

Back in the early 1970s I had a second hand Mazda R100 rotary and reassembled the leaky 4bbl carb with with the then new miracle seal anything Silastic. Not agood idea.....

Some epoxy putty will work fine. Leave a small 'head' on it so if it loosens, it can't fall through.

And I like my FCR39 too.

Steve
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:59 AM   #64304
996DL
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Thanks all, for the input on the Shinko 705's running pressures.

Went to the trouble / stress, of finally utilizing my unused till now, Faast Company adjustable spoke torque wrench. The Suzuki oem spoke torque values, are listed as 3 ft/lbs / 36 inch/lbs front and rear.
Both wheels are now dialed in...

996DL

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Old 05-14-2012, 05:22 AM   #64305
bull600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Yes, I noticed that it has a non-replaceable battery.
However, it is supposed to last 5 year so at $10 a year it seems reasonable to me.
If I found another small, affordable tach that used a replaceable battery I would go for it.
Considering I will probably break anything I install, cheap is good for me
I bought one of these a little over 2 years ago from TopGun Motorcyles with the bracket and really like it



I have a Garmin GPS for speed etc on longer trip so the vapor would be overkill and they're still 3 times the price here in Oz.

Bike now has 35k on the speedo and the hour meter on the tacho has just passed 500 hours. Only problem I've ever had is it will sometimes give an inaccurate reading for a while after doing deep water crossings when the wire pick up on the spark cable gets wet.

Cheers
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