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Old 05-15-2012, 05:17 PM   #64396
3DChief
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Since 35mm film is getting harder to find, a thin feeler gauge around the fork seal will do the same thing. Like everyone said, just be careful not to cut or crack the seal while you are cleaning it out.

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Old 05-15-2012, 05:31 PM   #64397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Since 35mm film is getting harder to find, a thin feeler gauge around the fork seal will do the same thing. Like everyone said, just be careful not to cut or crack the seal while you are cleaning it out.

Tim
or use your Leatherman to cut a plastic PET drink bottle up. Precurved to suit, and can be shaped with a bit of a hook. Empty, they are available for free most anywhere. It'll have a sharp edge one side, so put that side to the steel, and the dull edge to the seal. Experiment, and you'll figure it out.

Steve
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:58 PM   #64398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oz_johnno View Post
Thanks for the reply Doug,
naaah I anticipate the need to upgrade the suspension parts. Im about 240 pounds in my birthday suit, so suspension is going to be a must.

Cheers

OZ
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You've got a good all round bike Oz
If you go to the Regional forums and then the Aus forum you will find a thread for the DR650 which will give you a lot of info on mods and where you can get stuff here in Aus.
Vince Strang in Inverell is one of the best sources of setup parts and info. He used to prepare the DR650 for the Aus. Safari and knows his stuff.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:16 PM   #64399
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Question Header bolts

Just wondering, could header bolts that keep loosening up be caused by a bad exhaust gasket ring?
Seems that if the ring is all compressed out the bolts would loosen up from vibration and heat cycles.
Could be worth a try to use a new gasket ring even if they are not cheap.
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:50 PM   #64400
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Fork Oil level

Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
Man I'm having terrible luck today. Both front fork seals blown. SHIT! Gotta 1500 mile trip in 2 days and no time. Anyone have the specs on how much oil goes in front forks, PLEASE? Dammit...........
John, my fork oil level is 5 1/2 inches from the top of the fork tubes with the springs out and forks fully compressed down.

For temp until you get them fixed correctly, maybe use ATF as it's way cheaper than fork oil.

Did you try the film or feeler gauge to gently swipe the dirt from the fork seals. It worked on Franks DR. The main thing is keeping oil from the front brake rotor and pads... I would think.

See you next month at Hells Canyon. Got my pick-up coil installed last Saturday and it hasn't missed a lick... and seems to have picked up a few mpg. About 5 miles more distance now per stock tank. Still need a new petcock for the big blue plastic tank.

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Old 05-15-2012, 08:51 PM   #64401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I have a set of those Denali LED lights (from Twisted Throttle) on my DR650. They're currently wired up using the wiring that came with them and their own switch. I would like to eliminate this wiring and connect them to the high-beam switch so they only come on when that switch is activated. My headlight has been replaced with a low-beam-only HID model so I have a "spare" prong coming off of my high-beam connector.

Not being an electronics type, and not being able to read a wiring diagram very well, I was wondering how I can go about doing this? Is it just a matter of connecting the power leads from the lights to that "spare" prong?

Thanks.

Rob
I wired my LED's with a relay powered by the high beam wire. I would think you could do the same thing with powering off the available prong and onto a relay for the lights.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:05 PM   #64402
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I pulled my rear wheel today to replace the tire in preparation for a trip to Colorado and Utah next week. Any time I do this I always turn the bearings by hand to check for any roughness. To my surprise, after only 8500 miles, the sprocket drum bearing was extremely rough feeling. I ride lots of dusty roads with numerous creek crossings here in the Ozarks but the water is seldom axle high. So as I am staring at it, I see what appears to be the grease seal spring lying in the mucky grease. And that is exactly what it was, the unbroken spring. I popped the seal out and this is what the bearing looked like.


The other two bearings in the wheel hub turned very smoothly. I noticed the bearing seals were facing outward on these two bearings but it was facing inward on the sprocket drum bearing. I checked the service manual and it says the sealed side of the bearing should be facing outward toward the grease seal. I have had this 2009 model since purchased new (Dec, ’10) so I know the bearing has not been replaced. Okay, so this along with the grease seal spring issue might explain the premature death of the bearing (and no, the chain was not too tight) but why did the spring fall out, I wondered to myself.
Well, I think I figured that out. Whenever I replace a front or rear tire, I remove the spacers that fit inside the grease seals, clean everything up and then put some fresh grease on the seal lips before installing the spacers. I cannot remember how the front spacers are made but the rear spacers have a lip on their inboard side. This lip has a taper that makes it easy to push it in to the seal but it is just a 90 degree shoulder on the other side. Every time I tried pulling the spacer out of the seal this evening, the seal would initially hang on this shoulder and the spring would pop off.






Both seals were worn enough that they were loose on the spacers so I reckon I need to change them more often. I have been riding sport bikes since the mid ‘80’s but I have only been doing the dual sport thing for a year and a half. Still got a few things to learn. Hope this helps someone. I am pretty sure it would have ruined my trip. By the way, I have ordered a bearing with seals on both sides from ProCycle so hopefully it will last a bit longer.

bohawk screwed with this post 05-16-2012 at 08:11 AM
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:32 PM   #64403
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Did you try the film or feeler gauge to gently swipe the dirt from the fork seals. It worked on Franks DR. The main thing is keeping oil from the front brake rotor and pads... I would think.
Dave
I should have mentioned this too ... Leaking fork oil will migrate down to your front rotor ... not a good thing!

Old Enduro riders solution is to tie a rag on the offending fork leg just below the seal. Wrap it round tight a few turns and secure it, (Zip Tie) change it daily or as needed depending on severity of the leak. This is one situation where right side up forks are an advantage!

Once your brake pads are soaked with fork oil ... you are pretty much done and will have very weak brakes, if any. The rag absorb the oil and keeps it from the rotor and pads. Hope the cleaning clears it up so the rag won't be needed. ... or you could change seals. One hour job if you know how.

Good luck!
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:39 PM   #64404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Hi,

I just managed to buy a used DR650SE a few days ago.. these bikes are VERY rare here in Europe, it took me over 6 months to find one in my area. The bike is not in a good shape, but given the fact that since the day I first rode one i knew this was the DS bike for me, I had no alternative but to buy whatever DR650SE I manage to find..

Now to get to the point of my post, one of the many things I need to sort out on this bike is the ignition switch, which is operational but in a very bad shape. I have to "play" alot with the key to be able to turn it on. Once turned on, it won't retain the key inside. I'm thinking about replacing the ignition switch entirely, but for some reason I can't find any aftermarket one for sale, and the OEM one seems overpriced at over 130$. Does anyone know of an aftermarket ignition switch for the DR650SE? - OR - does the ignition switch of any other Suzuki model fit the DR650SE?
For some reason, I only seem to find aftermarket alternatives for the older, pre-1996 DR's.

Thanks!
Is this any good Deathu , there's lot of DRs in France and this site has plenty of second hand parts
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_m...5.htm?ca=16_s#

Phil
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:27 PM   #64405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Just wondering, could header bolts that keep loosening up be caused by a bad exhaust gasket ring?
Seems that if the ring is all compressed out the bolts would loosen up from vibration and heat cycles.
Could be worth a try to use a new gasket ring even if they are not cheap.
My 3c (inflation)

That sounds like a real good possibility to me. I think I would try that before loctite on the header pipe flange bolts. If there is a bolt that is prone to seizing and really could benefit from anti seize it's those header pipe flange bolts.

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Old 05-15-2012, 11:41 PM   #64406
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I was reminded of an old trick when I saw this picture. Notice the small gap in the spring on the seal. That's where the spring is screwed together. It is possible (if need be) to unscrew the spring and snip off a short section of it with good quality snips/cutters to increase the tension or tighten the sealing lips against the sealing surface in a pinch...such as the wheel spacers have grooves worn into them from the sealing lips of the seal. This would allow the seal to grip the spacer slightly tighter until you can get a new spacer and seal. When you unscrew the spring one end is tapered and the other end is straight cut, you would need to slightly trim the straight cut end so the tapered end can be screwed back in, then the spring repositioned on the seal.

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Old 05-16-2012, 06:11 AM   #64407
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Pictures

Thanks for all the replys guys. I've done the film ick a few times and when I looked this time it appears one seal has a very small tear in it. Ned to be more vigilant in cleaning the tubes I guess. So I figured it was time to replace the seals. I do carry a roll of film with memnow though. Thansk
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:31 AM   #64408
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Bohawk - thx for that. I change out wheelsets fairly often depending on the ride so I'll be more careful based on your post. I'll put Tech23's spring trick in the mental tool box but I hope I never have to use it.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:10 AM   #64409
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Chain vibration video V2

I spent a half a day doing experiments to try and isolate the odd vibration I feel in the footpegs on light acceleration, especially in 5th gear.

I tried to check everything that was suggested after the last video:

">

Note: there was no hesitation or stumble heard from the engine while making the video. From its sound and seat-of-the-pants testing, it is running very smooth. The chain sure is getting some harsh input from somewhere however!
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:43 AM   #64410
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Great video.
I will retract my earlier statement about it being in your head and rephrase by saying its the nature of the beast.
Since you have mentioned this, I have started to pay attention in 5th and around ~67mph, I do feel a vibration, but I still don't think it's an issue. There are so many different things going on to cause the vibration, I don't think it can really be tuned out.
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